Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Little, Brown Book Group, 06/08/2015 - 464 páginas
Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer)
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated
Opinião das pessoas - Escrever uma crítica
Classificações dos utilizadores
LibraryThing ReviewProcura do Utilizador - Elizabeth_Foster - LibraryThing
Loved Barbarian Days. This absorbing meditation on waves and those who chase and surf them gave me a serious case of wanderlust and made me view the ocean in a different way. Ler crítica na íntegra
LibraryThing ReviewProcura do Utilizador - ProfH - LibraryThing
Occasionally the non-surfer might get a bit tired of yet another description of a wave, but there's a lot more to Finnegan's work. Insights into his development as a writer, his relationship to others ... Ler crítica na íntegra