Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Capa
Little, Brown Book Group, 06/08/2015 - 464 páginas

Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer)

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated

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LibraryThing Review

Procura do Utilizador  - Elizabeth_Foster - LibraryThing

Loved Barbarian Days. This absorbing meditation on waves and those who chase and surf them gave me a serious case of wanderlust and made me view the ocean in a different way. Ler crítica na íntegra

LibraryThing Review

Procura do Utilizador  - ProfH - LibraryThing

Occasionally the non-surfer might get a bit tired of yet another description of a wave, but there's a lot more to Finnegan's work. Insights into his development as a writer, his relationship to others ... Ler crítica na íntegra

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Acerca do autor (2015)

WILLIAM FINNEGAN is the author of Cold New World, A Complicated War, Dateline Soweto, and Crossing the Line. He has twice been a National Magazine Award finalist and has won numerous journalism awards, including two Overseas Press Club awards since 2009. A staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987, he lives in Manhattan.

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