Rivers. South Carolina is remarkably well watered; principally by four large navigable rivers, besides a great number of small ones, which are passable in boats. The Santee is the largest river in the state, and is formed by two considerable streams, the Congeree and Wateree, in the interior of the country. Thence running upwards of 100 miles, in an east-south-east direction, falls into the Atlantic ocean by two channels not far apart. The Wateree river rises at the foot of the mountains in North Carolina, where it is denominated the Catabaw, from passing the Catabaw tribe of Indians, and pursuing a south-east course, is joined by many tributary streams, and forms a junction with the Congeree, upwards of 200 miles from its source. The Congeree rises also in North Carolina, within a few miles of the Catabaw, pursues a south-east course about seventy miles, when it crosses the state line, and runs due south about fifty miles; it then runs south-east about 130 miles, and forms the junction aforesaid. In its passage through South Carolina it receives a great many tributary streams, some of which are large rivers, particularly the Tyger, Enneree, and Reedy rivers.

The Great Pedee river rises in North Carolina, where it is called Yadkin; in South Carolina it takes the name of Pedee, and, next to the Santee, is the largest river in the state. After receiving several tributary streams, particularly the Little Pedee, Black river, and Lynche's creek, it joins the Wakamaw river, near Georgetown. These united streams, with the accession of a small creek upon which Georgetown stands, form Winyaw bay, which about twelve miles below communicates with the ocean. Great Pedee is upwards of 300 miles in length, is navigable for sea vessels to Georgetown, and for boats of sixty or seventy tons, about 200 miles. Its banks are said to be fertile, but in the low country are very unhealthy.

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The Savannah river, which forms the boundary line between South Carolina and Georgia, through its whole course, will be described with the latter state. Cooper and Ashley rivers, which form a junction at Charleston, éonstitute a spacious and convenient harbour, and communicates with the ocean just below Sullivan's island. Cooper river rises about fifty miles north-west of Charleston, not far from the Santee; it is a mile wide nine miles above Charleston, and is navigable to its source, from whence there is a canal to Santee river, which opens a communication between Charleston and the interior country. Ashley river rises to the north-west of Charleston, and derives its principal importance from the circumstance

of its forming part of the harbour of that city. The other rivers of this state extend, in general, but a short distance from the ocean, and serve, by branching into numberless creeks, as drains to carry off the rain water which comes down from the large inland swamps, or are merely arms of the sea. The tide in no part of the state flows above twenty-five miles into the country.

Face of the country, soil, climate, and produce.-South Carolina has a sea-coast on the Atlantic, extending nearly 200 miles, to which all its rivers flow. The low country extends from the borders of the sea for 120 miles, widening as it gets towards the south. The space that this extent embraces is nearly a continued level, almost without a stone, and abounds more or less, especially near the rivers, with swamps or marshes, which, when cleared and cultivated, yield on an average from twenty to forty dollars for each acre, and often much more; but this species of soil cannot be cultivated by white men, without endangering both health and life. The whole of the low country presents an even regular soil, formed by a blackish sand, and pretty deep. Seven-tenths of it is covered with pines of one species, which as the soil is drier and lighter, grow loftier and not so branchy; in some places they are interspersed with oaks. The pine barrens are crossed by little swamps, in the midst of which generally flows a rivulet, and they have different degrees of fertility, indicated by the trees that grow on them. In the upper country, the most fertile lands are situated upon the borders of the rivers and creeks; the lands that occupy the intermediate spaces are much less fertile. The latter are not much cultivated, and those who are in possession of them are obliged to be perpetually clearing them to obtain more abundant harvests. The forests are chiefly composed of oaks, hickory, maple, and poplar; chesnut trees do not begin to appear for sixty miles on this side of the

mountains.

At the distance of about 140 miles from Charleston, and at the termination of that species of soil just described, is a place called the Ridge. This ridge is a remarkable tract of high ground, as you approach it from the sea, but level as you advance north-west from its summit. It is a fine, high, healthy belt of land, well watered, and of a good soil, extending from the Savannah to Broad river. Beyond this ridge commences a country exactly resembling the northern states; here hills and dales, with all their

verdure and variegated beauty, present themselves to the eye. Wheat fields, which are rare in the low country, begin to grow common; and here Heaven has bestowed its blessings with a bounteous hand. The air is much more temperate and healthful than nearer the sea; the hills are covered with valuable woods, the valleys watered with beautiful rivers, and the fertility of the soil is equal to every vegetable production. This, by way of distinction is called the Upper Country, where are different modes and different articles of cultivation; where the manners of the people and even their language have a different tone. The land still rises by a gradual ascent; each succeeding hill overlooking that which precedes it, till having advanced 220 miles in a north-west direction from Charleston, the elevation of the land above the sea-coast is found by mensuration to be 800 feet. Here commences a mountainous country, which continues rising to the western terminating point of the state.

The mountains are ranged in regular directions; and of the particular summits Table mountain is most remarkable. It rises in Pendleton district, four or five miles from the north boundary of the state, and is 3,168 feet higher than the surrounding country; probably 4,300 above the ocean. On one side is a precipice of solid rock, 900 feet perpendicular; the valley below is equally deep on that side, making the height of the chasm 6 or 800 yards westward, and separated only by a valley, rises the lofty Colenoy. In the same district the Occonnee mountain lifts its summit 5 or 600 yards above the adjacent lands; and from Paris mountain is a delightful prospect. Much iron ore and a specimen of gold have been found here near its base is a sulphur spring of great powers.

The soil may be divided into four kinds; first, the pine barren, which is valuable only for its timber; interspersed among these barrens, are tracts of land free of timber, and every kind of growth except that of grass. These tracts are called savannas, constituting a second kind of soil, good for grazing. The third kind is that of the swamps and low grounds on the rivers, which is a mixture of black loam and fat clay, producing naturally canes in great plenty, cypress, bays, &c. In these swamps rice is cultivated, which is the staple commodity of the state. The high lands commonly known by the name of oak and hickory lands, constitute the fourth kind of soil. On the lands, in the low country, are cultivated Indian corn principally; and in the back country, besides these, they raise tobacco in large quantities, wheat, rye, barley, oats,

hemp, flax, and cotton. From experiments which have been made, it is well ascertained that olives, silk, and madder may be as abundantly produced in South Carolina, and in Georgia also, as in the south of France.

There is little fruit in this state, especially in the lower parts of it; but it is very probable that the various species of fruit-trees which flourish in France, would succeed very well in the upper county. About 200 miles from the seacoast, the apple-trees are magnificent, and several of the German farmers make cider; but here, as well as in Tennessee, and the greatest part of Kentucky, they are attentive only to the cultivation of the peach. The other kinds of trees, such as pears, plums, apricots, cherries, mulber ries, nuts, and goosberries, are very little known, except by name. The major part of the inhabitants do not even cultivate vegetables; and there is scarcely one out of twenty of them that plants a small bed of cabbages, and when they do, it is in the same field as the Indian corn.

That portion of this state best adapted to rice lands, lies on the banks of the rivers, and does not extend higher up than the head of the tides; and in estimating the value of this rice ground, the height which the tide rises is taken into consideration; those lying where it rises high enough to overflow the swamps being the most valuable. The best inland swamps, which constitute a second species of rice land, are such as are furnished with reserves of water. These reserves are formed by means of large banks thrown up at the upper part of the swamps, whence it is conveyed, when needed, to the fields of rice. Through the whole of this swampy country, to the extent of forty or fifty miles inland, and much higher upon rivers, as also in the islands on the sea-coast, the cultivators are all slaves. No white man, to speak generally, ever thinks of settling a farm and improving it for himself, without negroes; if he has none, he hires himself to some rich planter, till he can purchase for himself. The articles cultivated are Indian corn, rye, oats, every species of pulse, and sweet potatoes, which, with the small rice, are food for the negroes; rice, indigo, cotton, and some hemp, for exportation.

In the middle settlements, slaves are not so numerous; the master attending personally to his own business. The land is not properly adapted for rice; but it produces tolerable good indigo, and some tobacco. The farmer is contented to raise Indian corn, potatoes, oats, rye, and a little wheat. A great part of the agricultural labour here is performed by the white people; and so great is the

difference in this respect from the low country, that we may reckon there are two white persons to one black, whereas in the other there are two blacks to one white person.

In the upper country, there are but few negroes; generally speaking, the farmers have none, and depend, like the inhabitants of the northern states, upon the labour of themselves and families for subsistence. The plough is used almost entirely, and Indian corn in great quantities, wheat, rye, barley, oats, good potatoes, &c. are raised for food; tobacco, wheat, cotton, hemp, flax, and indigo, for exportation. This elevated district abounds with precious ores, such as gold, silver, lead, black lead, copper, and iron. There are also to be found pellucid stones, rock crystal, cornelians, marble, beautifully variegated, red and yellow ochres, potters clay of an excellent quality, fuller's earth, and a number of dye-stuffs. Chalk, crude alum, sulphur, nitre, and vitriol, are produced in abundance; and along the banks of rivers marl may be collected.

The climate is different in different sections of the state. In the low country, the summers are exceedingly hot and sultry, and the heat abates but little, except in the evenings and mornings, till past the middle of October. From the first of July to that period, the country is in many places subject to much sickness, particularly bilious fevers, agues, &c. The probability of dying is much greater between the 20th of June and the 20th of October, than in the other eight months of the year. The fall weather is generally beautiful, and continues till past Christmas; the average temperature is greater than an English summer. The winters are very mild, and there is very little frost; but the weather is sometimes subject to great and sudden changes. The spring commences about the middle of February, and they have often green peas in the market by the middle of March; but the weather intermits very much till about the first of May, when it gets steadily warm, and continues increasing with the season till September, when it begins somewhat to abate. Almost every person who can afford it, removes to a more healthy situation during this period, and a vast number go to the northern states in the summer, and return in the fall. The period of going north is mostly from the middle of May to the middle of July, and of returning, from the middle of October to the middle of November. anxiety that prevails during that period is extreme, and when it is over, the inhabitants congratulate one another with the full prospect of ten or eleven months being added

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