to the skyline and is for the most part deeply cut, containing excellent holds. The upper part is very steep, but much assistance can be obtained by resting the back against the left wall.

I know of no climb which is so fine from a spectacular point of view. The part of the body that is in space can be well seen most of the way up, whilst the limbs which hold it in place are out of sight in the crack. It is one of those places where the onlooker does not "see most of the game. But he experiences an undue share of the excitement.

If some of those people who nightly visit the various music-halls (and undergo undergo thrills while their impecunious or adventurous fellow-beings risk their lives for their delectation) could be transported to watch an ascent of this crack, I feel sure that a "new sensation" would be theirs. Fortunately, however, such a thing is not possible.

When our leader had climbed to within 20 feet of the top, his rope (an 80-foot one) was all out, so Binns had to unrope to allow him to finish. Before long, he was seated on a wide. ledge, just below the skyline, and waiting in readiness for the second man. Binns then climbed upward for about 20 feet until he reached the rope, to which he attached himself. He then proceeded to demonstrate what a vast difference the knowledge of a rope held from above makes

with his head the crack is wide enough to accommodate the whole body. It ought to be said that the photograph is taken showing the angle of the climb, but it does not look right into the crack. To have done this the camera would have needed to be so much lower down the scree that the crack would have become very much foreshortened. The skyline of the photograph is formed by the eastern edge of the pinnacle.

to one's climbing. He clambered upward as fast as his physical condition would allow, shouting across to me every now and then words indicative of his enjoyment, and soon joined Harland on his ledge.

The rope was then lowered again, and I imitated his example.

This long stretch of crack reaches a degree of excellence which approximates very nearly to the superlative. The rock is splendidly firm and rough; the chock-stones in the crack appear to be quite secure; the situation is irreproachable, and at no part is the climbing too severe, while on the other hand none of it is so easy as to be uninteresting. Although there is no room for the second man to join the leader at any point, there are several places where one can stand in comfort, at perfect rest for any length of time. It is to be feared that the long run out for the leader will debar most climbers from making the ascent, and this makes it impossible for me to say to all parties, "This is a safe climb; go and climb it!" to those leaders who have safely negotiated Kern Knotts Crack on Great Gable, Scawfell Pinnacle from the second pitch in Deep Ghyll, the Waterpipe Gully of Corrie na Creiche, and other courses of like difficulty, this "inaccessible" crack can be safely recommended. And to those whose powers do not attain to these heights, I would say, "Take a 100-foot rope; ask a companion to hold you from above, and enjoy in perfect safety a stretch of rock-climbing that is altogether delightful, and in many ways unique." It should be unnecessary for me to add that warm, dry

But

rocks are essential factors in one's enjoyment: it is not a wet-weather climb.

The four different routes up the pinnacle may be taken as typical of the increasing difficulty in rock-climbs, since it was first climbed in 1880. Not that present-day climbers are better than those of that date-far from it indeed; but the exhaustion of the more obvious, easy ridges and gullies has necessarily heightened the standard of difficulty.

It is almost impossible to leave the "Inaccessible" Pinnacle without some reference to Sgurr Alasdair. This magnificent peak certainly looks its best from here, and climbers will carry away among their impressions of a unique mountain summit remembrances of the finest peak in the Coolin. Except in the matter of size it would be hard to surpass in any mountain region. It may not be quite so showy or symmetrical as some others, but it is buttressed up grandly on both sides, as seen from Sgurr Dearg, by Sgurr Tearlach and Sgurr Sgumain, while its almost sheer north face, bounded by the black funnel of the Great Stone Shoot, lends it dignity and grandeur quite unsurpassable in a mountain on the same scale.

The shape of the final cone is most beautiful. It was the peak which most impressed Sheriff Nicolson, whose name it bears, and few there be since his time who have seen it from Sgurr Dearg but will agree that one of the greatest attractions of the "Inaccessible" Pinnacle is the view it affords across Corrie Lagan of the highest Coolin.

CHAPTER XI

SGURR MHIC CHOINNICH

FINELY situated at the head of Corrie Lagan, with Sgurr Tearlach and lordly Sgurr Alasdair on the south, and Sgurr Dearg to its north, stands the peak of Mackenzie; or, to be more particular, of John the guide of that ilk.

It is separated from the spur of Sgurr Dearg, called An Stac, by Bealach Corrie Lagan whence its long ridge rises, culminating in a sharp peak. Almost immediately the highest point is attained, the ridge plunges sheer over for about 100 feet to the line of demarcation between Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Tearlach. The general effect of this long ridge and its sheer termination, a prominent landmark in the Coolin, is somewhat grotesque. It suggests an armourclad horse of ancient times. Why it should convey this impression it would be difficult to say, but several people who have seen it for the first time from the Corrie Lagan side have had the same weird animal suggested. It is unfortunate for any peak to bear a resemblance to a conventional object. Once the likeness has been noticed it is always there, and instead of having one's imagination stirred by the grandeur of its form, one sees constantly that unhappy prototype.

Seen from certain points, however, Sgurr Mhic

Choinnich shows up in its true aspect as a fine rocky summit. At close quarters, also, the imaginative are not troubled by its general appearance. Its long, mural precipice, hemming in the head of Corrie Lagan, is on a large scale and has much to do with the savage impression conveyed by the upper corrie. But, while fine to look at, this wall of cliff is too shattered to afford satisfactory climbing, except at its extreme southern end, where a magnificent buttress, fully 1000 feet high, springs from the corrie and continues unbroken to the summit rocks.

The traverse along the skyline of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich from north to south calls into play a considerable amount of mountaineering ability; the steep drop to the south offers a problem far from easy of solution on a misty day.

It was one of the last peaks on the main ridge to capitulate to climbers, Messrs. C. Pilkington, H. Walker, and Heelis, with John Mackenzie, sharing the honour of its conquest. Their route lay along the narrow ridge from the north until the top was reached. Here they built a cairn, afterwards retracing their steps to the Bealach Coire Lagan.

Some few years later Mr. J. C. Hart, with John Mackenzie, succeeded in traversing the peak from north to south. Just before reaching the top they descended on the Corrie Lagan side for about 100 feet, and thence contoured around and under the steep summit rocks to the col below the vertical southern face. Their route is probably the one most commonly followed nowadays, though it permits of much variation in detail.

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