was no going further, for there was no apparent outlet from the environment of rocks except down a dark gully, over which a stream descended in a small cascade. The thought of passing the night there was not pleasant, and we tried in all directions before we determined on the experiment of wriggling down the wet rock, in a perfectly vermicular manner, and scrambled round the edge of the waterfall on to something that could be called terra firma. I certainly never in the same space of time went through so much severe bodily exercise as in that descent from Scur Dubh to Coiruisg. My very finger-tops were skinned, from contact with the rough-grained rock. But the difficulties of the descent were compensated for when we got, with thankful hearts, into the full flood of the moonlight on the last floor, the valley above Coiruisg."

Its remoteness from the climbing centres probably accounts for the fact that little work has been done on Sgurr Dubh; the traverse of its three peaks, generally called "doing the Dubhs," and the climb via the Coruisk face, representing the sum total.

Sgurr Dubh Beag is the name of the fine rock-tower on the ridge immediately east of, and about 600 feet below, the highest point. It can be climbed from Garbh Choire with comparative ease, if the line of least resistance be taken, or by way of the broad slabby ridge which starts upward about mid-way along Loch Coruisk.

Standing on the top of Sgurr Dubh Beag, and facing westward to its higher neighbour, the connecting ridge is seen about 90 feet directly

below; the route thence, if taken direct, involves a drop at one point of about 15 feet. This verges on the vertical, and a good hitch for the rope at its top is generally taken advantage of by the last man down. By keeping to the left (south) from the summit the drop can be obviated and the gap between the peaks reached with comparative ease. Thence to the highest point of Sgurr Dubh is for the most part walking, with here and there a short bit of hand-to-hand scrambling. The same remarks apply to the continuation thence to the top of Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, which is situated on the main ridge. Bealach a'Garbh-choire can then soon be reached and the descent to Coruisk made through the corrie so well described by Sheriff Nicolson in his account.

A more interesting descent is that by way of Coir' a'Ghrundda, which Mr. Colin Phillip, an authority on the scenery of the Coolin, considers the wildest and most savage of all these wonderful recesses. The great glacier-worn slabs, which extend from the lochan right down the floor of the corrie to its foot, are certainly unique; but the climber will do well to keep close under the cliffs of Sgumain in descending or they will dwell in his memory from other causes than that of their savage appearance. The quickest way from the lochan to Glen Brittle lies along the flank of Sgurr Sgumain through Bealach Coire Ghrundda and down the Sgumain Stone Shoot.

On the peaks of the main ridge south of Sgurr Dubh no rock-climbs have been done, ostensibly because there are none to be had, but more pro

bably for the reason that they are too remote. The fastnesses above Loch Scavaig contain some inviting-looking rocks, which would no doubt provide good sport; when that climbers' dream, a hut at Coruisk, is realised, they will come in for a share of attention. The summit ridge of Sgurr nan Eag and Gars-bheinn is narrow and rough, but contains no difficult places, a fact which, from a climber's point of view, would lead one to think that the ridges of Sgurr Dubh Mor and its lower tower would form a fitter termination to the main ridge of the Coolin than that nowadays recognised as such.

CHAPTER XVI

BLAVEN AND CLACH GLAS

BLAVEN, the great southern outpost of those rounded, granitic masses, the Red Hills, is on the opposite side of Glen Sligachan from the main ridge of the Coolin. Geologically it is one of them, however, and is commonly referred to as a Black Coolin. Nay, more, there are those who consider it the Black Coolin, amongst whom was no less authority than the late Sheriff Nicolson. "I have always considered Blaven the finest hill in Skye, and a remarkable example of the value of form, and variety of outline, in comparison with mere bulk, in the production of mountain grandeur." Thus he speaks of it, and later does not hesitate to compare the idea of size that it gives with that conveyed by the Matterhorn or Jungfrau.

Perhaps some of us prefer Sgurr Alasdair or Sgurr nan Gillean to Blaven, so far as beauty of form is concerned; but there can be no gainsaying the fact that Blaven looks higher than either of these, despite its inferiority in actual

measurement.

Some people attribute its colossal appearance to the fact that it rises from the bed of the glen in practically one vast wall of nearly 3000 feet. But the real reason is probably to be found in

its peculiar skyline. Running very gently upward from the moor on the south, its long dorsal ridge leads the gaze unconsciously onward and along until it attains its summit. Here the vision cannot immediately stop, but goes tumbling over the steep precipices of its northern end, and only comes to rest when it has taken in the entire sweep of its unbroken flank.

Even when its base is cut off by intervening hills, or when seen from the opposite sidefrom beyond Loch Slapin the same optical illusion is conveyed, and I believe that the reason lies in that gently rising ridge and steep termination.

Immediately below its northern face-a perfect maze of shattered ridges and pinnacles--a sharp pinnacled ridge runs northward, over the top of Clach Glas, and insensibly merges into the gentle, undulating outlines of the Red Hills.

It is a most unfortunate circumstance that Blaven and Clach Glas are so remote from Sligachan. It takes nearly two hours to reach Loch an Athain at their foot, and the way lies down Glen Sligachan, along the stony, boggy, ankle-twisting abomination which, in the neighbourhood, is by courtesy called a path. The above description is applied to the return journey in the evening, and, unless my ears have sometimes deceived me, I have put it mildly! Climbers have been known to compromise by taking ponies down the glen, but, as "Verdant Green puts it, "except for the appearance of the thing they might as well have walked." For walk they will, sooner or later, and probably lead their pony up