Leaving Selkirk for Melrose, the road runs along the south bank of the Ettrick, and at the distance of about "the Lay of the Last Minstrel." In the court of the castle, a number of the royalist prisoners, taken at the battle of Philiphaugh, were shot by the orders of General Lesley. Mungo Park, the celebrated African traveller, was born at Fowlshiels, a farm-house on the banks of the Yarrow, opposite Newark Castle, and resided here previous to his last and fatal undertaking. Passing Broadmeadows, (Boyd, Esq.) a handsome modern house, most delightfully situate, and some genteel farm houses in a richly wooded and romantic country, reach the manse and church of Yarrow. The church is nearly two hundred years old, but underwent a complete repair some years since. Proceeding westwards, the first objects that attract attention are two huge obelisks facing each other, at about a quarter of a mile's distance, on a moor above the church; the westmost is covered over with barbarous Latin in Saxon characters, miserably engraven, and almost illegible; but it appears that a John Scott and his brother or brothers either fell or were buried here. It is supposed to have been the scene of mortal combat between the young men of the families of Harden and Gilmanscleugh, celebrated in an old song, "The dowy dens of Yarrow," and in a modern ballad by the Ettrick Shepherd. The ridge where these obelisks stand is called Annan Street, a singular name for a bare moor, on the banks of the Yarrow; proceeding still westward, pass a number of snug cottages, and the farm house of Mount Benger, the late residence of the far-famed Ettrick Shepherd. Leaving Mount Benger on the right, cross the Douglas, issuing from the mountains towards the north. It is noted for the abundance of its trout, and has its name from an old residence of the Black Douglas on its banks. Here visit the tower of Dryhope, the birth-place and maiden residence of the celebrated Mary Scott, the flower of Yarrow; it is a tall square keep, like all the baronial towers in this country. On the left, across the Yarrow, observe Altrive cottage. This is a most attractive spot, and belongs to the Ettrick Shepherd. Here the Tourist may reckon on a hearty welcome. The Tourist now approaches St Mary's Loch, a fine sheet of water, surrounded with hills of a bold and distinct outline; the road skirts the lake,—the grave of the notorious Mess John Birnam, a little off the road. "That wizard priest whose bones are thrust It was opened about ten years ago by some gentlemen from Edinburgh, and part of his remains and relics of his enchanting gear discovered. a mile enters Roxburghshire, or Teviotdale. Two miles further on, the Ettrick flows into the Tweed. The road A little to the westward are the ruins of St Mary's Chapel, with its solitary cemetery situate in a little green retired spot. It continues to be the burial place of all the old families of note in the neighbourhood. Lintons, Scotts, Andersons, and Brydons, are the prevailing names on the grave stones. Leaving St Mary's Loch, the road skirts the Loch of the Lowes, which is a continuation of St Mary's, at the head of which is Chapelhope on the one hand, and Kirkenhope on the other, famous as being the last haunts of the persecuted Covenanters, and the residence of Wat Laidlaw and David Tait. Proceeding onwards, the Tourist reaches Birkhill, mid-way between Moffat and Selkirk, being about twenty miles from either. It is a little inn situate upon the highest ground between Ettrick forest and Moffatdale; it affords but indifferent accommodation; from this visit Dabb's Linn, a tremendous gulf; here is a cave of the Covenanters; at no great distance is Loch Skene, a scene of darkness and sublimity, where the lordly eagles have their eyrie. The Loch is famous for the variety of its trout. Issuing from the Loch is the celebrated cataract, the grey mare's tail, by much the highest in Scotland, being upwards of 300 feet from the ledge over which it is precipitated to the abyss below. The perpendicular gash in the side of the mountain cannot be viewed from above without horror, and to look into the profound abyss into which the stream plunges and bursts into foam, dashing the fish that fall with it to atoms, affects the brain most powerfully. The whole scenery of Moffatdale is romantically grand, and the view from the farm house is particularly striking. Between this place and Moffat, five miles distant, is the beautiful Craigie Burn, the name of one of Burns' delightful lyrics, "Sweet fa's the eve on Craigie Burn." After entering Craigie Burn wood, the road becomes enchanting. Passing Dumcrieff on the left, the road turns north west. Oakrig, also on the left, through fine cultivated fields reach the fashionable and picturesque village of Moffat. The river Annan skirts the west side of the town, and is joined a little below the village by the Moffat Water on the one side, and the Elvan Water on the other. The mail coach road from Edinburgh to Dumfries runs through the town, distance 51 miles from Edinburgh, and 21 from Dumfries. Moffat stands at a considerable elevation above the sea, at the bottom of a finely wooded conical hill, overlooked on all sides, except the south, by mountains of great height. It has long been famed as a watering-place, and affords excellent accommodation to visitors, having several good inns, assembly rooms, baths, bowling green, &c. 3 now proceeds along the banks of the latter river, which makes a noble sweep around the base of the Eildon The town consists of one street, the houses on either side are neat and clean, giving the whole a pleasing appearance of affluence and comfort. Its waters have long been celebrated for their efficacy in the cure of scrofulous and rheumatic complaints. Proceeding from Moffat to Dumfries, twenty-one miles, through a country of comparatively little interest, until the heights of Amisfield, about five miles from the town, are reached. From hence is a fine view of the undulating plain, through which the Nith winds its course as it stretches away to the Solway Firth. The old castle of Amisfield stands on the right amidst some old trees; it is a very rare specimen of the ancient baronial tower, and will amply repay a close inspection from the richness of some and the absurdity of others of its ornaments. Not far distant is the village of Tinwald, the birth place of the projector of the Bank of England, who, after experiencing the ingratitude of the English, returned to his own country and died of grief. The lofty hills which bound the plain are in high cultivation to their very summits; the numerous hedgerows that intersect the whole; the comfortable appearance of the farm houses, with clumps of planting, gentlemen's seats, the town itself, the extent of which is defined by three lofty spires; and below it the huge mountain of Criffel, rising with rapid acclivity to a height of 1900 feet above the estuary, is an imposing object, and proudly confronts the great Skiddaw, conspicuous upon the Cumberland coast. All these, as seen from this spot, compose a scene of much beauty and interest. Arriving at the town of Dumfries, which is a royal burgh, and the metropolis of the county of that name, the Tourist will be gratified with its neat and rather elegant appearance; the principal street extends fully three quarters of a mile parallel to the river Nith, and is, as well as the minor streets, handsomely constructed. Its population amounts to about 12,000. It has the usual accommodations of a large town, such as good inns, spacious court-houses, jail, an elegant suit of assembly rooms, a handsome theatre and reading-rooms. In the centre of the square is a Doric column, erected by the county gentlemen to the memory of the patriotic Charles Duke of Queensberry; it is now lighted at its summit with gas. The walks above and below the town on both sides of the river are delightful. The church-yard is rich in splendid monuments; here three tablets denote the graves of three covenanters who fell victims to "prelatic rage," and in the northeast corner is a superb mausoleum to the memory of our great national poet Burns, whose ashes repose beneath it. Dumfries and its neigh Hills, to the point at Dryburgh, a distance of eight miles. A mile and a half beyond the junction of the Ettrick and the Tweed, the towers of bourhood furnish numerous incidents of historical interest; the objects that will principally attract the notice of the Tourist in this district, are Comlongan Castle, which is still in repair, and surrounded with fine wood; it belongs to the Earl of Mansfield, and, according to Pennant, was the birth place of the great Earl. The castle of Caerlaverock, the property of the Maxwells, a powerful family in this country. It was once a place of great importance. Edward I. in persor, after besieging, captured it in 1300, and appointed three great Lords as its keepers; after having undergone many destructive vicissitudes, it ceased to be tenable, and was given up to one Finch in the time of the usurpation, who, in the receipt for its furniture, takes notice of eighty beds,—according to Pennant, a proof of its hospitality and splendour. Its venerable remains are surrounded with trees; it is picturesquely situate between the debouches of the Locker and the Nith. Seven miles below Dumfries, on the opposite side of the Nith, in a most romantic situation, to which a road through a beautifully chequered country conducts, are the ruins of New Abbey, close to the college of that name; the surrounding scenery is fraught with a serenity of beauty well calculated to promote the benign purposes of religion. It was a Cistertian monastery, founded in the early part of the thirteenth century by Divegella, a daughter of Allan, Lord of Galloway, wife to John Baliol, Lord of Castle Bernard, and mother of Baliol, King of Scotland. Its ancient name was Sweetheart Abbey, from the circumstance of Divegella's husband's heart embalmed being built into its walls near the altar. The building is a fine specimen of the light Gothic. A visit to Lincluden, three miles from Dumfries, will amply gratify the admirers of beautiful scenery. It was originally a convent, but was converted into a Collegiate Church by the great Earl of Douglas, and immortalized in song by Burns in his beautiful odes. The whole scene has a solitary pensiveness well suited to soften the inspiration of the poet. The Tourist may proceed up the Nith, passing Dalswinton on the right, through Thornhill, to the left of which is a magnificent view of the palace of Drumlanrig, the princely residence of the Duke of Buccleuch, up the Carron Water, through Dunisdeer, and down the Powtrail Burn to the Clyde, and so on to Hamilton by Douglas Mill, through a country fraught with objects of great interest. ABBOTSFORD, the superb mansion of Sir Walter Scott, Bart. appear amidst a profusion of oak, birch, mountain-ash, &c. which rival each other in youthful vigour. Here the banks of the Tweed are graced for miles with ranges of forest wood; and one may wander many a long day among the countless charms of Abbotsford's serpentine walks ;waterfalls, ravines, bowers, and benches, mountain lakes, and meandering Tweed are included as attractions for the Tourist at this bewitching spot. The Tourist will be gratified by a walk in the garden previous to entering the house, or whatever it may be called, for it resembles no other building in the kingdom as a whole; it has an imposing effect, "borrowing outlines and ornaments from every part of Scotland." It is seated in a sweeping amphitheatre of wood. Enter the Hall, round the cornice of which runs a line of shields richly blazoned. It is filled with massive armour of all descriptions, and other memorials of ancient times, well calculated to prepare the Tourist's mind for farther inspection. The floor is of black and white marble from the Hebrides. Passing through the hall he enters a narrow arched room, stretching quite across the building, having a painted window at each end. It is filled with all kinds of small armour ; and here it may be observed, that every weapon has its watchword and anecdote of interest. These relics are arranged with great taste and elegance. From this apartment are communications with the diningroom on the one side, and the drawing-room on the other. The dining-room is very handsome, with a roof of black oak richly carved. In this room are some fine pictures. The most curious, and perhaps not the least interesting, is the head of Queen Mary in a charger, by Amias Canrood, painted the day after her decapitation |