CAMPUS

ABOUKIR.

67

up into heaps; in others spread out into vast beds, where our animals often sunk a foot deep; and in others, again, covered with water and reduced to soft mud; we a little before nightfall arrived opposite the ruins, or rather site, of Canopus. The remains of this dissolute city, erected gradually, according to tradition, around the rude tomb of the pilot of Menelaus*, have long been covered by the waves, which, in this part of the coast, appear to be gaining on the land, against which they are driven with great and continual violence by the north wind. We next passed the village of Aboukir, and shortly afterwards came close up to the edge of the bay, where, in 1798, was fought the famous battle of the Nile. Through the bottom of this bay the sea was turned by the English into Lake Mareotis, when it is said that forty-four villages, with their fields and gardens, were overwhelmed beneath the water, which is now again excluded by a wall, or stone embankment, erected by the Pasha. Latterly, however, the old works were found to be insufficient to resist the fury of the waves, and workmen were now employed in erecting a new line of wall, immediately within the old one. The wind, which blew from the north, was very high, and the sea came roaring and dashing in a tremendous manner on the shore, frequently breaking over the old wall, along the top of which the road now lay. For several miles our course con

* "Condidere id Spartani ob sepultum illic rectorem navis Canopum; qua tempestate Menelaus Græciam repetens, diversum ad mare terramque Libyam dejectus."-Tacit. Annal. ii. 60.

68

CANOPIC MOUTH OF THE NILE.

tinued close to the southern extremity of Aboukir bay, where the aspect of the desert, viewed in the dull twilight of a cold cloudy day, was dreary and desolate beyond expression. * This was, in fact, the moment for feeling the full influence of the waste, not a sound being any where heard but the howling of the wind, and the dashing of the waves, mingled at intervals with the melancholy scream of the heron or the stork. We had ourselves ceased to speak; every one seeming to be absorbed in his own thoughts; and these, if I might judge by the complexion of my own, were as gloomy and comfortless as the land

scape.

XXXIII. It had been already dark some time when we reached that broad deep channel, formerly, perhaps, the mouth of the Canopic branch of the Nile, by which the sea flows into Lake Edko; and, owing to the lateness of the hour, and the boisterousness of the weather, there at first appeared to be but little likelihood, even if the wind would allow us to make ourselves heard, that the Arab ferrymen would risk their boat, in such a night, by coming to fetch us. We shouted with all our might, but no answering voice, from the opposite shore, gave us the assurance of being heard, and we in vain looked across the dusky waves in search of the boat; while the wind blew more and more fiercely, the cold grew bitterer,

* Some travellers have pretended that the bottom of this bay is lined with groves of date palms; but not a tree was visible when I passed.

THE CARAVANSERAI.

69

and something between rain and dew began to fall. To bivouac unsheltered, on the open plain, or to return to the village of Aboukir, appeared to be our only alternative; but at length some one advised the firing off of a pistol; and this means succeeded, for presently afterwards we had the satisfaction of hearing a shout from the water, and in a short time beheld the ferry-boat approaching the shore. The embarking scene, which now took place, was not a little ludicrous. Our baggage, beds, &c. were, of course, easily put on board; but when it came to the asses, they seemed to have some secret objection to this mode of conveyance, and exhibited so striking a degree of that firmness of purpose for which their race has long been renowned, that it appeared altogether doubtful whether they could be prevailed upon to go over or not. However, the vociferation of the Arabs and the blows, which were most unsparingly dealt upon their cruppers, at length, convinced them that they were likely to have the worst of the argument; so they yielded up the point; and when this dispute was over, we were carried on board on the backs of the Arabs, and the boat put off. It was by this time so dark that we could scarcely distinguish one another, and the crazy old baris rolled and pitched in an extraordinary manner; but at length we reached the opposite shore, a bare unsheltered beach, where we found a solitary stone hut, half in ruins, round which all the winds of heaven seemed to be blowing. On entering this wretched tenement, which, in European maps,

70

THE CARAVANSERAI.

is dignified with the appellation of a caravanserai, we found a Turk established in the least uncomfortable corner, where he had spread his carpet, and was smoking his pipe, by the light of a small dim lamp, which was burning beside him on a window seat. It was one of those wild-looking places which writers of romance delight in describing. Situated on the bleak sea beach, almost within reach of the spray, slightly built at first, and now fast crumbling to ruin, with shattered doors, a few rough boards for windows, long fowling-pieces, pistols, sabres, &c. suspended against the wall, and one solitary man, smoking and musing in the partial gloom,—it formed a savage picture, which, under other circumstances, I should have contemplated with pleasure.

XXXIV. The Turk saluted us civilly as we entered, and, in the hope, perhaps, of a small consideration, yielded us up his place, and undertook to assist our Arabs in preparing tea and coffee; and while this operation was going forward, we spread our beds upon the floor, and put every thing in readiness for passing the night. As it blew almost a hurricane, the wind entered in strong gusts through the numerous apertures in the wall, and swept so violently round the room, that it was with much difficulty that either candle or lamp could be kept burning; but having despatched our simple meal, we bade defiance to the winds, and, retiring to bed, every one of the party, except myself, was almost immediately asleep. From various causes I found it quite impossible to

ROAD TO ROSETTA.

71

follow their example: fleas, bugs, and other vermin, enumerated among the plagues of Egypt, soon found their way into my bed, and began to initiate me in the mysteries of travelling; the strong tea and coffee which we had taken, co-operating with the excitement created by an extremely novel situation, had also their share in producing wakefulness; and there I lay

"Chewing the cud of sweet and bitter fancy;"

listening to the roaring of the sea and the wind, and ardently wishing for the dawn. About midnight, when the Turk and the muleteers, after much loud talking, had fallen asleep, a party of Bedouins arrived at the hut, demanding, with vociferous shouts, to be admitted out of the rain, which was now falling in torrents. Not being immediately attended to they beat the old door with their lances, and were, I believe, upon the point of sending it in to the middle of the floor, when the Arabs awaked, and admitted them. The dying embers of the fire were now kindled once more into a blaze, and the new comers, crowding round it to dry themselves, contrived, by their noisy conversation, to keep me still longer awake; but they again departed before day-break, and left us to our repose.

Friday, Nov. 23. Rosetta.

XXXV. When we arose in the morning, the rain, which had fallen heavily during the night, had ceased, though the wind still continued very high. We break