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when well-decomposed manure cannot be had, spread it over the surface of the beds, and let it lie exposed to the air before digging or trenching it into the soil. The flower-gardener who has a deep, rather light loamy soil that he can trench from 2 to 3 feet deep, and a dry subsoil, has a great advantage over others who have either a shallow poor soil, or one that is wet and clayey. It is scarcely credible to those who have not seen it how gorgeously most plants grow and bloom in deep light loam, resting on a dry bottom, which should be the standard to be guided by.

Owners of small gardens particularly have great disadvantages to contend with where their soil is naturally bad. Generally they cannot easily get their few flowerbeds either entirely remade, or ameliorated where the soil cannot be wholly replaced. Clay is more effectually improved by burning the subsoil, and mixing it with the best of the surface soil, than by any other means. The method of doing this is detailed in a subsequent chapter. Road grit or light sandy soil added to it will also improve it; and when soil is sandy and poor, the subsoil should be removed, and heavier soil mixed with the best of the natural soil. It need scarcely be said that, when the soil is naturally unsuitable, the most effectual way of remedying the evil is to entirely remove it to the depth of 20 inches or 2 feet, and replace with two parts fresh loam and one part decomposed leaves or leaf-mould. Where the rainfall is great, and many things, particularly Pelargoniums, grow too much to leaf, the soil should be raised more above the ground-level, and of course manure should be more sparingly applied generally.

CHAPTER IV.

ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGED PLANTS.

Plants suitable for Planting as Single Specimens, and for Planting in Groups in sheltered places in the Summer and Autumn Flower-Garden, and that can be mostly wintered in a Greenhouse:-The whole of these thrive well in a soil composed of equal parts turfy loam, with a fourth part peat, a fourth part leaf-mould, and about a sixth part of the whole of sand:

Acacia lophantha.

SH Acanthus Lusitanicus.
Agnostis sinuata.
Aralia dactylifolia.
Aralia reticulata.

Aralia heteromorpha.
Aralia papyrifera.
Aralia Sieboldii.

v Aralia Sieboldii variegata.

x Areca sapida.

H Arundinaria falcata.

H Arundo conspicua.

H Arundo donax.

v Arundo donax variegata.

Araucaria excelsa.

Araucaria Cunninghamii.
Araucaria Cookii.

Araucaria Rulei.

Aspidistra lurida variegata.
Agave Americana.

v Agave Americana variegata.

v Agave medio-lutea.

Agave dasylirioides.
v Agave striata.
Aloe glauca.
Bambusa nigra.

V H Bambusa Fortunei foliis niveis

vittatis.

Bambusa viridis glaucescens.

Beaucarnea recurvata.

Beaucarnea glauca.

x Baconia caudata.

Chamœpeuce diacantha.
Chamœrops excelsa.
Chamaerops Fortunei.
Chamaerops humilis.
Chamaerops palmetto.

Cycas revoluta.

Centaurea argentea.
Centaurea gymnocarpa.
Centaurea Ragusina.

Clethra arborea.

v Clethra arborea variegata.
s Cineraria platanifolia.
v Coronilla glauca variegata.
Corypha Australis.
Canna Annei.

Canna erecta hybrida.

s Canna rubra superbissima.

Canna géant.
Canna robusta.

Canna Sellowii.

Canna discolor.

Canna Expansa.

Canna metallica.
Canna nigricans.
Canna rubra perfecta.
Canna rubricaulis.
Canna zebrina coccinea.
Canna Warczewiezii.
Canna major.
Cordyline indivisa.
Cordyline longifolia.
Datura arborea.
Dracæna Australis.
Dracæna Boerhavii.
Dracæna draco.

Dracena angustifolia.
Dasylirion glaucum.
Datisca cannabina.
Doryanthes excelsa.

Echeveria metallica.

v Eurya Japonica latifolia varie

gata.

v Farfugium grande.

Eucalyptus globulus.

x Ferdinandia eminens. Fourcroya longæva.

x Ficus elastica. Gynerium argnteeum. Grevillea robusta.

Griselinia macrophylla.

Gunnera scabra.

V H Iris fœtidissima variegata.

x Latania Borbonica.

x Latania Jenkinsiana.

s x Nicotiana wigandioides.

H Phormium tenax (New Zea-
land flax).

v Phormium tenax variegatum.
Polymnia grandis.
Phoenix dactylifera.

v x Panicum plicatum.

x Ricinus albidus magnificus.

x Ricinus lividus.

x Ricinus Obermanii.
x Ricinus sanguineus.

Ricinus viridis.

v x Rhapis flabelliformis.
x Rhopala corcovadensis.
Seaforthia elegans.

s Senecio Ghiesbreghtii.
Sempervivum aizoides varie-
gatum.

v Salvia argentea variegata.
s Solanum macrophyllum.
Solanum marginatum.
Solanum robustum.

Solanum pyracanthum.
Solanum verbascifolium.

Yucca aloifolia.

v Yucca aloifolia variegata.

H Yucca aloifolia cornuta (concava).

H Yucca gloriosa.

H Yucca gloriosa glaucescens. v Yucca filamentosa variegata. Yucca filifera.

H Yucca recurva pendula.

Yucca albo-spica.

H Yucca flaccida.

v Yucca quadricolor.
x Wigandia Caraccasana.
x Wigandia Wygenii.

Vitis heterophylla.

Those marked H are hardy; X, require the temperature of an intermediate house; and those marked v have variegated foliage; s, those that are easily raised from seed. Of course the cultivation of such plants to any great extent is not practicable, except where there is a considerable amount of glass, and not at all in the case of amateurs who may have only one small vinery or greenhouse, or even both. Yet many of them can be raised annually from seeds, or be propagated by cuttings in spring from a forced plant of each variety. Among those which are very effective, and that can be got up in this way, are Cannas and Ricinus. The former of these, if sown early in February, and pushed on in heat, make large plants in 6-inch pots before the beginning of June. The same applies to the Ricinus, which can also be sown in autumn, and, wintered in a small state in a warm greenhouse, makes fine plants the following season. The roots of Cannas can be kept over the winter as easily as potatoes, and with as little trouble, by lifting and packing them in moderately dry soil in any shed or outhouse where frost cannot reach them. In spring they should be started and grown on, much like a Dahlia. The Cannas are available in this way in the case of those who may not have the best nor the most ample resources. Then there are such effective things as Nicotianas, Wigandia Caraccasana, Polymnia grandis, Ferdinandia eminens, Senecio Ghiesbreghtii, Solanums, etc., which can either be raised from seeds annually, or propagated from an old plant or two where they can be afforded room, and where a strong top and bottom heat can be commanded to propagate with in early spring. Managed in this way, and grown on in heat till the middle or end of May, they make stout

plants, which, in good rich soil and sheltered situations, grow into large specimens the same season. These few varieties, in conjunction with hardy Yuccas and the other hardy plants included in the foregoing list, would help to give variety and an interesting feature in every garden where the climate can be termed moderate, and the shelter is sufficient to protect them from winds.

As will appear from the directions given for arranging these plants in beds and borders, we are very partial to planting them as panel and centre plants in beds and long borders, because it is then that their character and beauty are best seen, and they give relief to heavy masses of colour.

It must not, however, be supposed that, although nearly all the plants we have enumerated are as hardy as the general run of summer bedding plants, this order of gardening can be carried out with success anywhere, except where they are well sheltered from high winds. This of course applies to the quick-growing soft-wood and large-leaved plants; and we would warn those whose gardens are not favoured with sheltering boundaries, that all their attempts will be labour lost; for although, when fresh and healthy, such plants are very effective, they are most hideous when torn and tattered with the wind. In all exposed places such things as Yuccas, Aloes, that are stiff and not affected by winds, and such things as Dracena Australis, D. cordyline, and D. draco, etc., the leaves of which yield, but do not tear nor break, should be chosen. Ficus elastica we find to stand winds very well, its leathery foliage fitting it for rough weather. Where the flower-garden proper is too exposed to use the more easily injured plants, then sheltered and partially shaded nooks in recesses by the

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