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queerest little places during the season, | free list, but as a rule, one pays, and in the garret or down in the cellar, giv. rather highly. ing up to strangers the cherished parlor Alfred de Musset, that fertile genius, and the most sacred chambers. I am has his strain respecting Baden : told that all this is looked upon quite in
“Les dames de Paris savent par la gazette the light of a liberal profession, and that
Que l'air de Bade est noble et parfaitement graduates of Tubingen and Heidelberg
sain. will in the winter adopt the black coat Comme on va chez Herbault faire un peu de and white tie of the waiter. But the toilette, very centre of all Baden life is the beau On fait de la santé là-bas; c'est une emtiful little villa that belongs to the great
plette: M. Benazet himself. It is situated a few Des roses au visage et de la neige au sein, steps from the Park and Conversation
Ce qui n'est défendu par aucun médecin." House, on a well-timbered eminence A man once wrote a will in which he commanding a bird's view of the whole expressed his wish in reference to his town, and of the surrounding hills. interment: “I desire to be buried in the Certainly both the Benazets, père and Catholic cemetery of Baden, to find the fils, have shown a wonderful amount of repose of death on that spot where in taste and energy in all they have done. my lifetime I tasted calm and forgot I have pleasure in admitting this at the my evils.” And assuredly to a man of outset, as it is not the general intention lotus-eating disposition, Baden will preof this article to speak favorably of these sent many attractions if he can conquer gentry. Some of the noble apartments the prevalent temptation to gaming. which they have built and adorned, It is a very happy place for a mere holimight vie with those of St. Cloud and day existence. To get up when you the Tuileries. They have, I believe, al- | like, or not get up; take your coffee and ways shown an hospitality to men of arts write your letters, and skim through and letters, which shows taste and dis- your books, and receive an intimate viscernment. Their opera house is very itor or two en déshabillé; or if you noble, and has witnessed its operatic wish to carry idleness to the height of triumphs. Gounod produced for it an idleness, don't read, don't write, don't unedited opera, in which Madame receive, but fold your hands and sit in Miolan - Carvalho was to be prima vacant quiescent calm-and even this for donna. A telegraphic correspondence a change is very delightful now and has been published between 1. Bena- then. Nobody goes out in the morning. zet and Signor Tamberlik. It is rare- It rather appears the proper thing to ly that an Englishman writes so much stay at home. If you choose to go out, politeness at a telegraph or railway sta- you may encounter a solitary pedestrian tion :
now and then in the woods, and of * M. Benazet to M. Tamberlik.—You course there are always three or four are the prince of tenors. Baden wants rooms pretty full of gamblers in M. you for a concert on the 20th of August. Benazet's interiora loci. The afternoon The terms are left in blank, you shall fill is the grand time for the promenade. thein up.”
And what a wonderful promenade that “M. Tamberlik to M. Benazet.— I am is—as wonderful, if not more so, than not the prince of tenors, which does not the Prado, Hyde Park, or Avenue de prevent you from being a true Mæcenas. l'Impératrice. What a wonderful disThe pleasure and honor of singing in play of De Musset's "des roses au visyour regal saloon would be reward age et de la neige au sein," although I enough. Other engagements deprive fear that both the white and red are me of that honor: pity me.”
materially indebted to artificial aid. llad I am not sure that there is not a touch I a peacock's pen, had I the envied power of insincerity in M. Tamberlik's dispatch. of the editor of Le Follet, I should like I may mention that there is a curious to describe that summer sea of gauze, superstition that one need not pay to go those toilets of Eastern splendor and to the dramatic or operatic performances, oftentimes of startling originality, such bat that M. Benazet is sure to send invi. as worn by the damsels who attended tations. M. Benazet may have a liberal | Lalla Rookh in the Valley of Cashmere,
those twinkling points of light, illumi-thing against him, even if I rest my nation of all gems, which make the Lich- paper on his table and write it undertensal promenade such a wondrous dis- neath his roof. play of jewelry, the mob of kings and In fact all this profuse magnificence princes, who have all the happiness and is derived from the profits of the banks, none of the troubles of an incognito. and, as a speculation, finds itself well
Amid the gorgeous company my repaid. At all the gaming-places it is countrymen and country women look, I the losses of the small players that make must confess it, a little seedy. The fact the profits of the bank. A Garcia who is that they form a minority, sometimes plays largely has been known to win his quite an insignificant minority, at Baden. hundred thousand pounds; but as a matAnd as a quiet man, a man who never ter of course, to use an expression of stakes a napoleon on the cards or the Juvenal's, those who have nothing lose marble ball, I certainly feel a sense of that nothing. treasure trove in coolly taking possession The gambling is always scrupulously of all the good things that here invite fair, but the gambling company makes iny acceptance. A friend of mine who its profit of nearly fifty per cent. If you hates humbug, probably because he like to be a shareholder you may go into possesses neither the pretence nor the the market and buy some shares. They veality of virtue, denounces my humbug are always at an enormous premium. in partaking of the advantages of a These gambling ogres slay men and pick system of which I disapprove. “You their bones and crunch them. Badenhave been walking in Benazet's grounds, Baden with all its exterior splendor and and listening to his music, and lounging surrounding loveliness, may well_be on his sofas, and reading his Galignani, called a hell — it is indeed a hell. But and yet you attack this Benazet, and as now the government of Baden has reyou are one of those fellows who can't solved to do away with this plague-spot. go quietly about these watering-places The gambling is to be put down. Beor anywhere else but must always be nazet has had notice to quit, Benazet is using pen and ink, you will probably going to Monaco. This is to be the print your revilings.” Now this is a sort great revolution. Violà tout! The pity of argument which the fast men often is, however, that for all this Benazet bring against the quiet men, but which takes no steps about moving. I believe contains a fallacy which is easily exposed the reason is, that his notice has been There are a great many matters in which indefinitely prolonged in order to give a man asks no questions for conscience him time for winding up so enormous sake. But one might put and ask ques- an affair. . tions here. If I had requested M. Be lle came to Baden-Baden, this Benanazet to be so good as to take all this zet, after Louis Philippe had abolished trouble for me, the case would be very the gambling-houses in Paris. It is high different. I should certainly make no time they should have been abolished. request. I accept a chair and a news. There are fearful stories of those old paper from Benazet, without thinking Parisian gambling days, such as though of his gambling apparatus, just as I covered have certainly not altogether should take a pair of boots from my ceased to exist. A friend of mine has shoemaker without inquiring whether been telling me of one dark night's work, he was happy in his conjugal relations, in which a vast sum was lost and won, or take a ride in a voiture without in. and next morning there were about ten terrogating the voiturier about Renan. bodies in the Morgne. The gamblers And I have no doubt that I have really withdrew to Germany. Homburg is, paid for my seat and paper. Who helped on the whole, the headquarters, but to swell the sum total of my bill at the Baden-Baden has always attracted the Victoria ? It adds every day some franes greatest number of English people. The to what I give the landlord, and some roulette-table, and trente et quarante, essopis to what I give the waiter. I wholly i pecially the latter, became the most prodeny my sense of obligation. I retain ductive and popular games. Everybody my animosity to this Benazet. I will bopes that the revolving wheel will see take out my note-book and pencil some the jingling marble in the lucky spot.
From morning till night, year after year, quotes a passage to the effect that this that incessant marble has been keeping establishment, "according to the testiup its ominous rattle. At first the small mony of those who are knowing in such governments of Germany welcomed matters, is so regulated as to give the their new visitants. The apparent ad bank more chances in its favor, and, of vantages they offered were considerable. course, against the playing public, than A vast space of land was laid out in is customary at more liberal establishgroves and gardens. A vast impetus ments elsewhere." Another writer alwas given to all local business, a large leges against them the systematic violaannual sum, a considerable constituent tion of at least two fundamental rules. of his revenue, was paid to the reigning One of them is that the player should in prince. Another large sum was annual every case deposit his stakes in money ly given to the charities and municipal down.' This is a wholesome rule, inasobjects of the town. But as time has much as it does interpose some kind of passed by, the German governments check upon reckless gambling. But the have perceived that all this has not been evil of the credit system is added to the obtained without heavy counter-balanc- evil of the gambling system. The crouing disadvantages. They have begun to piers, when they know themselves to be perceive how little creditable is any quite secure, in obedience to a nod or revenue drawn from such a pernicious more explicit request, will advance ne809rce. It has become clear that in each cessary funds for carrying on the war. case a most demoralizing effect has been Again, it is stated that all the unclaimed exercised upon town and neighborhood. winnings are to be given to the poor. It has been truly said that the very No attention appears to be given to this atmosphere of a gaming-house, and the rule. The croupiers, perhaps, a little sight of piles of gold to be acquired by abstractedly, will rake up the leavings, chance and the turn of a wheel, and not which thus go to swell the bloated profits by honest labor, is demoralizing. More of the bank. over, it is found that just as the black It is unnecessary to give any melodraguards and blacklegs increase, so does matic stories of the evils of the gambling the best company of the watering-places system, with which the public has always fall off. But now it is the wish of the been shocked. Indeed, such melodramas Diet that thronghout Germany the probably occur rarely and are then hushgambling - houses should cease. The ed up carefully. But I venture to say governments of Baden and Nassau have that one cannot stand by the table for an taken final measures. It is feared at hour without witnessing something sadHomburg that when the aged Land- dening and disgusting. It is not agreegrave dies and the Duke of Darmstadt able, for instance, to witness that cold comes in for his inheritance he will put perspiration of anxiety which is breaking down the gambling by force. The in- out upon so many villanous brows. significant establishment in the Electo- Again, how often the hand is thrust into rate of Cassel will then soon follow. the hair, the action done in qniet, genule. Dne notice, it has been said, has been manly fashion ; but the hair is ruthlessly given to Benazet and Co.
torn under the influence of terror and The Briden government, unlike any disappointment. So, ita gentleman handmere petty principality, is quite inde- somely arrayed with watch and chain pendent of the gambling establishment, and rings, suddenly disappears afier losand it is perhaps owing to the feeling of ing, and then makes his appearance again insecurity respecting their tenure that to resume his play, minus the decorative the gambling establishment is open to portion of his attire, the unsoothing susstrictures which perhaps hardly apply to picion is created that in the interim he others of the class. “ Bradshaw's Con- has been paying a visit to an avuncular tinental Guide”-a publication, let me relation. I travelled to Baden once in say in passing, which on one summer tour the company of a young pair, a sweet prit me to great inconvenience by the pretty girl and her Husband on their briconsiderable inaccuracy of its informa- dal trip. He looked perfectly happy and tion, and which should always be super- contented, but I saw him day after day seded by the local guides—“Bradshaw” in the saloon, neglecting his bride for
play, and his looks rapidly assuming an (peror of the French. He and his wife, expression very much ihe reverse of the by imperial ordinance, were received on former one.
It is not every one who pos- the footing of royalty in Paris. These sesses the strength of mind enjoyed by foreign connections in great measure my friend Tompkins. Tompkins, be it drew him away from his own court and said, is a man of very rigid views, both country which he was so eminently calmorally and ecclesiastically; he has a nat. culated to adorn. He generally spent ural taste for denunciation, which he has only a month of the year in Scotland, carefully improved, and his denunciation where he had very extensive estates of the Baden system was certainly very around his ancestral seats of Hamilton fine. But it was the nature of the beast Palace and Brodick Castle. His liberalto have a covetous little soul, and those ity made him beloved by his tenantry, volleys of spinning gold and silver coin who are raising a monument to his memfairly fascinated him. At least it would ory. But the liberality of the duke was not be wrong just to try once, only once; everywhere known. Although he was he would never do it again, and he could not a Roman Catholic—although strong afterwards repent this wicked sinfulness. influences were in vain brought to bear A single napoleon, if lost, would not ruin upon him which might induce him to him, and if he won, he would take the change his religion—he is understood to good gifts of the fates, and ask no ques- have greatly assisted the Pope from his tions. With a palpitating heart a napo- private resources at a time when peculeon was deposited, and then came the niary aid was acceptable. The unrivalled whirr, and then the croupier presented pedigree of the duke placed him almost three napoleons to the inexpressibly grat- in the position of royalty. It was well ified Tompkins. With a grateful heart known that at one period of our history Tompkins received them and exultingly his line might have founded a dynasty in walked
away, and from that hour to this England; and so late as the reign of he has never again gambled.
Queen Anne it was a matter of firm exBut among my Baden-Baden reminis- pectation that the wished - for union cences one recollection especially rises would not be accomplished, and in that before me.
You remember, perhaps, case that the Duke otHamilton would asthat beautiful villa on the right hand, sume the crown of Scotland. The student almost opposite the Victoria Hotel, just of history will remember how Scotland before you enter the grounds of the Kur- then trembled on the verge of a civil war. Saal. You must have stopped to admire When the Baden alliance was made, it that charming garden with its stately was fully understood that the Duke of vases of flowers. That was the abode Hamilton was as much on a footing of of a nobleman, well known at the courts royalty as the Grand Duke of Baden. On of the Continent—better known there, a certain day, in the season of last sumperhaps, than at his own—the late Duke nier, the duke, with his son, were at a of Hamilton. I well remember, one beau- splendid party given by the Duchess tiful midsummer evening, about a year of Buccleuch. On the evening of that and a half ago, hardly a year before his day, on the morning of which the party death, a conversation which I had with given by the duchess had broken up, his that most princely and kind-hearted man. Grace arrived at Paris. It was, I believe, It so happens that I knew something of his intention to proceed forth with to Bahim, although he was one of our greatest den-Baden, where the other members of dukes, and the present writer is alto- his family were then staying at his villa. gether a different kind of person. Amid Formerly he had had a mansion in Paris, the mob of princes he moved preöminent, but now his headqnarters were generally conspicuous for that noble countenance at the Hôtel Bristol. The evening of his which the sculptors of Rome regarded as arrival the duke was at the opera; and the perfection of manly beauty. He had after the opera, in the company of'a wellmarried into the reigning house of this known ci-devant member of our Paris country, the Princess Marie of Baden, a Embassy, he went to the famous supper lady who in girlhood was the greatest place, the Maison Dorée, on the Bouleornament of her court, for sense, liveli- vards. The early dawn of the summer ness, and wit; a first cousin of the Em-l day was breaking as he prepared to go
homeward. He had to descend a long heart and conscience. Many of his race flight of steps. Of the hurried events have left historical names, but, perhaps, that followed there are different versions, not many have so engraved their recolas is always the case respecting events lection on friendly or grateful hearts. of great importance and great rapidity;
Εύδεις αλλ' ου σείο λελάσμενοι εσμεν. but I believe that the facts are substantially these. A servant wished to assist One beauty of this lazy Baden-Baden the duke with his overcoat, and the duke life is that one reads a variety of books declining his assistance, stepped back which at any other time one would not somewhat hastily. In so doing he missed think of reading. How, in some old his footing, and was precipitated down country-house, where the library has not the stairs. Ile was taken up insensible, kept pace with modern literature, is not and carried to his hotel. Medical aid one glad to seize upon the Annual Reg. soon arrived, and a French course of ister, or devour eagerly even the largest treatment was adopted. It was concus- of Richardson's novels? Now here is sion of the brain, and from the first there an odd volume of the Revue des Deux was no hope. His family were summoned Mondes. What an admirable review to his bedside. To the same melancholy that is, by-the-by, though perhaps rather spot came the most illustrious lady in degenerating in tone just now; how genFrance. The emperor was at Vichy, erous sometimes how extravagantly but the empress being at St. Cloud, soon generous -- in its appreciation of Engarrived.
land. I am violating no confidence when I But “ arise and let us wander forth." mention, what was well known in Paris Fling down the book and get into the air at the time, how courteous and kind was and sunshine. It is very sultry, and the empress in her attention to the suf- looks like rain. I hope I shall gain the ferer, herself administering the prescrib- Conversation House before one of those ed mendicaments, and kneeling in prayer sudden Baden showers comes down. by the bedside. Only some wandering There I shall be protected both from gleams of reason revisited the sufferer, in heat and rain. But who is this? It is which be recognized the duchess and Pipkins! What aileth thee, O Pipkins ? empress. His body was conducted from Wherefore are thy intelligent features Paris to Cherbourg, and thence to Scot- overspread with an expression of grief land, by the empress's commands, with and annoyance ? Reveal to me the story almost royal honors. He will be remem- of thy joys and sorrows. Can I lend bered by many far and wide; not the thee a ten-pound note ? No, my Pipleast here in Baden. The season pre- kins, I cannot, for otherwise enough sented nothing more delightful than the would not remain to waft me over to evening music parties which from time Albion's isle. “Dry as the remainder to time he gave. De mortuis nil nisi biscuit after voyage”—thou rememberbonum. How good a motto is that for all est the quotation, for didst thou not, like of us! And indeed it was very difficult a prince, squander regretted guineas at to believe anything but good of the duke. the Stratford Tercentenary-my voyage That kindliness, wbich was not only the is well nigh done, and very few and very most perfect expression of politeness, but dry are my biscuits. But if the humbler expressed the very sonl of generosity and fiver will aid and comfort you, give me courtesy, and kind feeling,
the I. 0. U. and it is thine. Oh, unhap“ For manners are the fruit of noble minds," py boy, and worthy of a better fate,
what tale is this that thou dost tell me? was ever shown by the duke, so as to Not garotters, and not ticket-of-leave embody the best notion of the practical men, but Mr. Leech's young ladies with chivalry of the age. This peculiar grace their pretty hats, are the dangerous was not only exbibited in courtly scenes, classes! And Cousin Kate-oh! that to win the admiration of less polished dangerous cousinship ! - has tried the men, but was manifested in deeds of real roulette-table and has lost, and has asked kindness and goodness, so privately and thee to lend; and alas! thou hast lost unostentatiously performed that there too, and hast not the wherewithal. What would be no applause save of his own shocking tale is this? Has Kate no