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were great, he who sowed was master of his crop. I kept back nothing for myself from the revenues of the land.” The impartiality and disinterestedness of these sentiments were received with loud marks of approval, and my swarthy friends went from one cave to the other examining and discussing the various hieroglyphics and pictorial representations, now that they had some one to explain them, as keenly interested as if they had been a party of British tourists instead of residents on the spot. As the Sheikh el Beled of the village of Beni Hassan itself was with us, I called his attention to the wanton destruction of these most interesting illustrations of the manners and customs of the ancient Egyptians at the hands, not only of foreign travellers, but of the natives, and implored him to use his authority to put a stop to it as far as it lay in his power; but I fear, unless the Government take the matter in hand, there will be very little remaining, a few years hence, of the marvellous and minute records which this most ancient people have left of their daily lives and avocations. , While we were discussing this subject our luncheon arrived, which was contained in a large circular basket, and consisted of a lamb cooked whole, peacefully reclining upon a layer of flat loaves of bread. Indeed nothing could exceed the kindness and hospitality of our host, who, during the whole time of our stay, insisted upon providing the necessary means of locomotion and all our meals. We parted from him with many mutual expressions of regret and goodwill, and made a prosperous run the same evening to the charmingly situated little town of Rhoda, where we proposed staying for a few days. Between Cairo and Luxor there is no spot on the Nile which is held by the natives in such high estimation for the purity of the air and the salubrity of the climate as Rhoda. Situated at the end of a long reach of the river, it receives the full force of the north wind, and even in summer it is said to be cooler than any other place in Upper Egypt. We seemed conscious of a remarkably invigorating quality in the air, and this agreeable attribute was enhanced by the beauty of our surroundings. Here, as in Minieh, we lived in a bower of orange-blossoms, the garden was shaded, and the river-bank was lined with umbrageous trees, under which it was delightful to sit at all hours of the day. Indeed a roof promised to become a superfluity in our existence; breathing the pure air, and trying to assimilate its health-giving properties, seemed occupation enough. In fact I cannot imagine a spot better suited for the invalid; all that is wanted to make it a place of popular resort for strangers is a hotel of some sort. My experience of the Fayoum, and of Central Egypt between Cairo and Siout, convinces me that, so soon as accommodation is provided, the valley of the Nile and the oasis are destined to become a favourite winter resort for invalids. I feel no doubt that it would be a most profitable speculation to open small hotels at Medinet el Fayoum, Rhoda, and other places on the river. The experiments of hotels at Helwan and Luxor which have already been made, have proved so successful that it is a matter of astonishment that nothing has yet been accomplished in this direction, the more especially as of late years Cairo has become decidedly unhealthy, and has lost much of its old charm, both in point of climate and of that oriental cachet which was its great attraction. Rhoda not only possesses beauty of scenery, and an exceptionally good climate, but is surrounded by objects of archaeological and historical interest. Immediately opposite are the ruins of the ancient city of Antinoë, called by the Emperor Hadrian who founded it, after his favourite youth Antinous, who plunged into the Nile and drowned himself at this spot, in the belief, based on an oracular prediction, that the sacrifice of what was most dear to his imperial master would bring him back the good fortune which seemed to have abandoned him. A little higher up are the grottoes of Jebel Aboolfeda and Tel Amarna. Indeed the mountains here are honeycombed with a most interesting series of tombs, containing pictorial representations, which have never been thoroughly explored; and I regretted that the operation was too laborious to enable us to undertake it, as some of the most interesting and least known objects lie at a distance of several miles from the river. While the east bank is thus prolific in antiquarian remains, the west bank offers similar attractions within easy distance from Rhoda. Here are the mounds of Ashmoneyn, the site of the ancient city of Hermopolis Magna, the capital of the Nome; and the Libyan hills beyond it are perforated with tombs. An attempt to describe in detail all that may be seen from Rhoda would only weary the reader—nor need the traveller who makes it his headquarters expect to find monuments equalling in extent or grandeur those of Thebes or Luxor; but as a centre of operations for investigation and research, it possesses the combined merits of being convenient, healthful, and beautiful. From the numerous houses I saw in process of erection, I should say that the town was also prosperous. It contains a population of about 3OOO inhabitants, and besides a very handsome palace belonging to the Khedive, boasts a large sugar-manufactory. I was present here at the important function of the launch of one of the largest description of Nile boats, which are used for traffic purposes by the Daira Sanieh, and the ceremony was one at which a large number of the villagers assisted. Considering it evidently a sort of fête, they came down with banners, dancinggirls, music, and a large band of workmen,

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