Imagens das páginas
PDF
ePub

ward night the sea was literally mountainous; nor were the waves more remarkable for size, than colour. Just as they broke, their dark blue changed to-what shall I call it ? another shade of blue, perhaps, but so indescribably resplendent and dazzling, that I am convinced the sublime pencil of Titian himself never caught so celestial a tint. To-day a large hawk, perhaps an eagle, lighted for some minutes on our yards, but, as if in derision of our white canvass, soon spread his wings, and sailed around and off.

FRIDAY. Lat. 41 deg. 54 min. Long. 45 deg. 25 min. Several days, you see, are passed since I last wrote, and I cannot perceive that I am any nearer the promised land, than before. The captain jocosely remarks, that we are now about "half seas over," and then-" what then?" as Sterne says. We have an excellent captain, crew and ship.

SUNDAY, 13th.-How tiresome is a sea life! I cannot conceive, how a bustling yankee can ever get inured to it.

TUESDAY, 22nd Oct.-While you are imagining me near my port of destination, I am, on the contrary, many hundred miles away, viz: in long. 18 deg. lat. 43 deg. 5 min. We have had, since I last wrote, a succession of squally weather and head winds, &c. It seems to me, that there is but one place, to which I desire to go sufficiently to make another voyage, and that is-Home. Methinks I shall have grey hairs before I see France.

"A life on the ocean wave, and a home on the rolling deep," is very good poetry, but to my taste an indifferent sort of house keeping. "The cloud-kissing waves," and the "foam-crested sea," one may imagine to look very pretty, but-when the waves kiss the clouds, because the latter stoop to the embrace, and when the bowels of the spectator yearn, not with sympathy and tenderness, but seasickness 'tis quite a different matter.

SUNDAY, 27th.-Doubtless you are figuring to yourselves my occupation in Paris; but, alas, I am yet many a mile distant. The smart s. w. winds, which have blown for the last two days have buoyed us along the Schilly Isles. Last evening the wind changed to s. E.

by E. which entirely prevents our entering the Channel, and here we lie, beating about with a heavy sea, in the company of several vessels. I have been amused during the last week in watching some porpoises gamboling around our ship; and this morning was wet through while standing on deck, by the spray from a wave, which broke against our side.

WEDNESDAY.-Last evening spoke a London packet, who will probably report us. The English far-famed fog envelopes us closely. A very heavy rolling sea causes a return of sickness.

SATURDAY EVENING, Nov. 2nd.-Still in the Channelwind yet ahead-over thirty-three days out. Last night it blew the heaviest gale we have had yet, and we had a lee shore. Butter, potatoes, and fresh provisions long ago gone. Shall we ever get in? The Lord only knows.

SATURDAY, Nov. 3d.-This is truly a fine day, though it has snowed, and the heavens are filled with clouds, and the weather very cold; for I have seen land-the pilot is on board-and to-morrow, (what a blessed word to-morrow is!) I shall go on shore! The St. Nicholas, being one day ahead, has been in port eight days, having entered the Channel just before we were blown off. My fingers and feet are covered with chilblains, and my red nose projects fiercely through my moustache and beard.

WEDNESDAY, 6th,-Havre, where I arrived last evening at five P. M. still retains me. Sunday morning we arrived in the Roads, and there we lay till last evening, as the water was not high enough for the ship to enter the dock gates.

After so long a period spent on-ship-board, one could almost find happiness on a barren island. A ship has been compared to many things—I would give it the title of menagerie; for besides whales, porpoises, and sharks, you see strange beasts there, which, though inferior in size, do not affect the feelings less. Such is the bed-bug, "the red rover of the sea," and the more agile flea, which always swarm in cotton laden ships. Both are rare "phlebotomizers." The little dark weevil finding his kingdom in the crevices of the ship-bread "taken from him and given to a stranger," flies for his life, as you raise it to your lips. To these one soon becomes accustomed as well as to the rats, who nightly open avenues

through your clothes to the dainty crumb concealed in some of their folds. Sea-sickness may be enjoyed a fortnight together on your back, and also a sudden translation from the berth to the middle of the cabin floor, as the ship may chance to take a sudden lurch-when they are over.

We must leave these things, however pleasant in the recollection, and observe the ship as she enters the dock. Sunday morning, we arrived in the Roads, and there we lay till last evening, as the water was not high enough to enter the dock gates. These docks are but large basins of water confined by gates, not differing, except in magnitude, from those of our canals. The tide here rising and falling twenty feet, the rush of water otherwise would leave them exposed to danger from the bottom, when heavily laden, from its shallowness at ebb tide. Into this dock we rushed with all the speed, which a flood tide, a strong wind behind and a stronger swell from the Channel, could give us. To the unaccustomed eye, we were in constant danger of running into the pierhead, whose massive buttresses project far into the sea, or the shipping moored along its sides. Fortunately, just as the danger seemed imminent, a hawser, apparently stretched by unknown hands, restrained our headlong course. The quay is crowded with people, whose uncouth garments divert the attention from the imaginary danger.

The pier is the grand promenade for the city; and ladies, soldiers, peasants-the whole community almost, are gathered there to witness the entrance of two large American ships and other smaller craft. We hastened from the ship to the hotel, fortunately escaping the search by the police, a fate which my trunk suffered most unmercifully the next morning. The numerous soldiery, who throng the city, seem to have little else to do, except poking into trunks and carpet bags, stirring up the dirty clothes, and snuffing every odour, while on the scent for tobacco. The manufacture and sale of this noisome weed are a monopoly of the king, and the search is therefore very severe. Notwithstanding this, three thousand cigars were smuggled ashore in the following ingenious manner. Two carpet bags were obtained similar to one another. Both were carried to the custom

house. One contained the greater part, and the other a quarter box only. This last was openly displayed in the mouth of the bag and the duties promptly paid. Gulled by this stratagem the other was scarcely opened. At a subsequent period, a bearer of despatches to our embassy covered the boxes with the yellowish paper, tied with red tape, sealed with numerous red wax seals, stamped with the eagle found on a half dollar, and thus passed some thousands of cigars, unquestioned, through the hands of those who did not know that on the American coat of arms, there were no " 50 cents" stamped at the bottom.

I am at Wheeler's Hotel, a very comfortable house,' where English is spoken, and have employed myself today in traversing the city, and noting its peculiarities; the women, who are employed in every menial servicescraping the streets-riding the little jackasses, behind two immense panniers, stuffed with all kinds of provisions-the peculiar shaped houses-dark and dirty, frequently seven and eight stories high. Linen bedclothes this season of the year are no addition to the warmth of their elastic beds. Fires are in general use, so cold it is. I shall leave for Rouen by the diligence day after to-morrow, the boat having ceased running. Found an agreeable companion in an English clergyman, who described the theatre to me, and a particular play with great fervour. Saw also this morning a funeral-a priest followed by a boy bearing a pine coffin covered with a black cloth, and a man following, probably the mourner, but who was gazing around with great unconcern. At eight P. M. a band of thirteen drummers marched through the streets, calling the soldiers to their quarters for the night.

The city of Havre contains but little worthy of notice. The church of Notre Dâme, the docks and the hospital, are the principal objects of interest. A building for a museum is now erecting. It is made of a soft native stone. The walls are made of the large pieces placed in proper order, but unhewn and almost shapeless. After these are erected, the stone is then worked and pillars are hammered out and ornamented with Corinthian capitals, &c.

The village of Ancorville, separated from the city by a wall and moat, is the residence of the wealthy. It is

situated on a high bluff, commanding a fine view of the city proper, with the bay and river Seine stretching for several miles. The buildings are much finer than those in the city, though not pleasing to the American eye, accustomed to white houses and green blinds. They are built of half-burned brick, with walls nearly two feet in thickness, and covered with plaster of such a dingy colour, that, noticing shavings, &c. around a house, it is difficult to tell, whether they are building a new or repairing an old one. The gardens, however, make up the deficiency. I visited several, one very splendid, beJonging to Jeremiah Winslow, a Boston man. Its winding walks were ornamented by the immense ribs and vertebræ of the whale. Even at this late season, it was covered with flowers. Among them was the Bengal rose, which we call the double Dutch, similar to C.'s, growing in great profusion, full of blossoms. It is left out of doors all winter, and blooms ten months in the year. The Laurestinus, too, with its fragrant flowers, resists the frosts of winter, uninjured. They are both frequently in bloom on Christmas. Rhododendrons, Cape Jessamines, are evergreens. The far-famed Holly and Ivy are also abundant. The former has a very rich green leaf, scolloped, bearing on each point a thorn. I also visited a small private green-house, not very showy at present, and quite similar to our own.

The soldiers stationed here number three hundred, and constitute the most shriking objects of notice. They officiate as sentries, police, and custom house-officers. Their uniform is in horrible taste. The only excuse for it is its alleged cheapness. They look, as if, roused from their slumbers by a fire in their own dwelling, they had seized the first clothing near them, and appear in scarlet flannel drawers, but partially concealed by a blue surtout. Such coat-tails must certainly impede locomotion,

The antiquarian may hasten to see the old tower, so conspicious as we enter, which the guide books say was the place where Mazarian confined the princes of Condé and Conti, and where Francis I. was entertained by the early inhabitants. He may pore over the falling stones, and pick up a rusty nail for a souvenir :-my taste seeks rather for the living and breathing works of the present, than the dilapidated monuments of the past.

« AnteriorContinuar »