CHAPTER X.

THE MONKS OF PALESTINE.

WHENEVER you come back to me from Palestine, we will find some "golden wine" of Lebanon, that we may celebrate with apt libations the monks of the Holy Land; and though the poor fellows be theoretically "dead to the world," we will drink to every man of them a good long life, and a merry one! Graceless is the traveller who forgets his obligations to these saints upon earth-little love has he for merry Christendom, if he has not rejoiced with great joy to find, in the very midst of water-drinking infidels, those lowly monasteries where the blessed juice of the grape is quaffed in peace. Ay! ay! We will fill our glasses till they look like cups of amber, and drink profoundly to our gracious hosts in Palestine.

Christianity permits and sanctions the drinking of wine; and of all the holy brethren in Palestine

* "Vino d'oro."

there are none who hold fast to this gladsome rite so strenuously as the monks of Damascus; not that they are more zealous Christians than the rest of their fellows in the Holy Land, but that they have better wine. Whilst I was at Damascus, I had my quarters at the Franciscan convent there; and very soon after my arrival I asked one of the monks to let me know something of the spots that deserved to be seen. I made my inquiry in reference to the associations with which the city had been hallowed by the sojourn and adventures of St Paul. "There is nothing in all Damascus," said the good man, "half so well worth seeing as our cellars ;" and forthwith he invited me to go, see, and admire the long range of liquid treasure that he and his brethren had laid up for themselves on earth. And these, I soon found, were not as the treasures of the miser that lie in unprofitable disuse; for day by day, and hour by hour, the golden juice ascended from the dark recesses of the cellar to the uppermost brains of the friars. Dear old fellows! in the midst of that solemn land, their Christian laughter rang loudly and merrily—their eyes kept flashing with joyful fire, and their heavy woollen petticoats could no more weigh down the springiness of their paces, than the filmy gauze of a danseuse can clog her bounding step.

You would be likely enough to fancy that these

monastics are men who have retired to the sacred sites of Palestine from an enthusiastic longing to devote themselves to the exercise of religion in the midst of the very land on which its first seeds were cast; and this is partially, at least, the case with the monks of the Greek Church; but it is not with enthusiasts that the Catholic establishments are filled. The monks of the Latin convents are chiefly persons of the peasant class, from Italy and Spain, who have been handed over to these remote asylums by order of their ecclesiastical superiors, and can no more account for their being in the Holy Land than men of marching regiments can explain why they are in

stupid quarters." I believe that these monks are for the most part well-conducted men,-punctual in their ceremonial duties, and altogether humble-minded Christians. Their humility is not at all misplaced, for you see at a glance (poor fellows) that they belong to the "lag remove" of the human race. If the taking of the cowl does not imply a complete renouncement of the world, it is at least (in these days) a thorough farewell to every kind of useful and entertaining knowledge; and accordingly, the low bestial brow and the animal caste of those almost Bourbon features, show plainly enough that all the intellectual vanities of life have been really and truly abandoned. But it is hard to quench altogether

the spirit of inquiry that stirs in the human breast, and accordingly these monks inquire they are always inquiring-inquiring for "news!" Poor fellows! they could scarcely have yielded themselves to the sway of any passion more difficult of gratification, for they have no means of communicating with the busy world, except through European travellers; and these in consequence, I suppose, of that restlessness and irritability that generally haunt their wanderings- seem to have always avoided the bore of giving any information to their hosts. As for me, I am more patient and good-natured; and when I found that the kind monks who gathered round me at Nazareth were longing to know the real truth about the General Bonaparte who had recoiled from the siege of Acre, I softened my heart down to the good humour of Herodotus, and calmly began to "sing history," telling my eager hearers of the French Empire, and the greatness of its glory, and of Waterloo, and the fall of Napoleon! Now my story of this marvellous ignorance on the part of the poor monks is one upon which (though depending on my own testimony) I look "with considerable suspicion:" it is quite true (how silly it would be to invent anything so witless!), and yet I think I could satisfy the mind of a "reasonable man" that it is false. Many of the older monks must have been in Europe at the

time when the Italy and the Spain, from which they came, were in act of taking their French lessons, or had parted so lately with their teachers, that not to know of "the Emperor" was impossible; and these men could scarcely, therefore, have failed to bring with them some tidings of Napoleon's career. Yet I say that that which I have written is true, the one who believes because I have said it will be right (she always is), -whilst poor Mr "reasonable man," who is convinced by the weight of my argument, will be completely deceived.

In Spanish politics, however, the monks are better instructed. The revenues of the monasteries, which had been principally supplied by the bounty of their most Catholic Majesties, have been withheld since Ferdinand's death; and the interests of these establishments being thus closely involved in the destinies of Spain, it is not wonderful that the brethren should be a little more knowing in Spanish affairs than in other branches of history. Besides, a large proportion of the monks were natives of the Peninsula: to these, I remember, Mysseri's familiarity with the Spanish language and character was a source of immense delight; they were always gathering around him, and it seemed to me that they treasured like gold the few Castilian words which he deigned to spare them.

The monks do a world of good in their way;