INTRODUCTION,

I.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE TRAVELLER.

In drawing up the following instructions, we take it for granted that the traveller is provided with Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide, * as an indispensable companion to visitors on the Continent; and reference is, therefore, made frequently to that book, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition here. As extensions of the railway system cause alterations from time to time in the number of its pages, the reader is requested to observe that where a reference is made to a particular page of the Guide, if the information required is not found there, it will probably be found on one of the adjoining pages.

WHAT SHOULD BE DONE IN LONDON-PASSPORTS-MONEY-LUGGAGE. Passports.-The first thing the traveller must see about is his Passport, for which ample instructions are found in Bradshaw's Continental Guide. Mr. W. J. Adams, our London Agent, will answer any inquiries on this head, and take all the necessary steps to procure a passport for those who desire it.

Money.-See Bradshaw's Continental Guide, and the table below. Bank-notes are negociable in some of the principal towns, and sovereigns are received; but the best plan is to change your English money into French napoleons at a respectable money-changer's in London or in France (changeur, agent de change): at the hotels and railways a deduction is made for this accommodation. English gold, however, will pass anywhere (English silver is useless); so will the louis d'or or napoleon, and the five-franc piece. In calculating expenses, 10s. to 20s. per head per day may be allowed. The latter sum will cover all charges of living in the best hotels, travelling by first class railway, and the best places in the coach. In the country inns, board and lodging may be had for 6 to 10 francs a-day. Living is so cheap in Brittany, that "Nimrod" says a man may live there like a prince on £60 to £100 a-year; of course, at a sacrifice of many English comforts.

Money accounts in France are kept in francs and centimes (or hundredths); the décimes (or tenths), which come between, being seldom mentioned.

* Published monthly, 1s. 6d.; Special edition, with maps, &c., 3s. 6d. Adams, 59, Fleet Street

The modern French gold coins are pieces of 10 fr., 20 fr., and 40 fr. The silver coins are pieces of 20 centimes, 50 centimes or franc, 1 franc, 2 francs, and 5 francs.

The above comparison of French and English moneys will vary a little with the rate of exchange; but the prevailing rate has been adopted.

Luggage and Dress.-The less luggage you take the better, as all luggage above 601bs. weight or so, is charged for on the Continent, so that, in this case, it is as necessary to get a ticket for the luggage as a ticket for the fare. For the ordinary traveller, a carpet-bag is enough, with half-a-dozen shirts, two pairs of socks, and as few other things as possible. The socks should be woollen or worsted, which may be bought as you go, throwing the worn-out ones away. Brown, grey, or dark coloured dresses are fittest for both gentlemen and ladies; and as to the style, let it be simple. A light overcoat, and an umbrella for a stick are essential. Soap is not common abroad, and being charged in the bills, you should provide yourself with a stock before taking up your quarters. The pedestrian must, of course, put on a stout pair of double-soled shoes, and wear gaiters, especially as the roads are more dusty than ours. Where shoes chafe in walking, take a sheet of writing paper, grease it over, and wrap it round the foot next the skin. Good knapsacks may be got abroad.

Letters. The traveller will find it convenient to have his letters addressed to him, "Poste Restante," i. e., till called for, in the various towns at which he expects to be. They will be delivered on the passport being shown, or, in some cases-as Paris, for instance--the card only is required. There are now two posts daily (morning and evening), from London to France. All letters for France go through the London post-office, and, for the morning mail, must be in the London office before 7 45 a.m., and, for the evening mail, before 6 p.m. The approximate time required for conveying them to any part of France can be ascertained by reference to Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide.

WAY TO GET TO FRANCE, AND LANDING THERE.

See pp. 208-9 of Bradshaw's Continental Guide, from which the following is extracted :— a. CALAIS ROUTE.-London to Paris direct, via Dover and Calais, 342 miles, in 12 hours, viz.:-Departure from London for Dover (1st class only) at 8 30 p.m.; arrival at Dover, 11 p.m.; departure from Dover 11 15 p.m.; arrival at Calais 2 a.m.; arrival at Paris 9 10 a.m. (See Route 11 of Hand Book). Through Tickets, 61s. 6d. There are 22 miles only of sea by this route, which, in the old coach days, took 58 to 60 hours, between London and Paris. By direct train the luggage is examined only on arrival at Paris.-Another direct

train (1st and 2nd class) star's at 8 30 a.m., reaching Dover at 103 a.m., Calais at 2 p.m., and Paris at 10 20 p.m. Through Tickets, 61s. 6d. and 44s. 3d. Travellers for Marseilles, on landing at Boulogne or Calais, should have their passports visé for that place direct, to save delay at Paris; they will receive a provisional passport for 2 francs. Marseilles is reached, via Dover and Calais, in 34 hours; Bourdeaux in 38 hours. The station, refreshment room, and douane, at Calais, are close to the quay. Three departures from Calais for Dover daily.Calais may be also reached by the General Steam Navigation Company's steamers, direct from London Bridge Wharf, twice a week, in 8 to 9 hours. Fares, 14s. and 10s. b. BOULOGNE ROUTE.-London to Paris direct in about 10 hours, by South Eastern Railway and Packets from Folkestone according to tide. (See Route 2). Through tickets, 54s. 3d. and 39s. 3d.-By General Steam Navigation Company's boats, twice a-week, direct from London Bridge Wharf, in 10 hours. Fares, 14s. and 10s.: or through, 28s. and 24s.

c. DIEPPE ROUTE.-Direct, in 12 to 15 hours. By Brighton Railway to Newhaven, steamer to Dieppe, according to tide, and Railway to Rouen and Paris. (See Route 8.) About 72 miles of sea passage. Through fares, 28s. and 20s. The fast boats in use are built by

Scott Russell, on the wave principle.

d. HAVRE ROUTE.-By South Western Railway to Southampton, steam to Havre, and railway to Rouen and Paris (see Route 9). Through fares, 28s. and 20s. N.B.-Steamer only three times a-week; sea passage, 102 miles.-A steamer leaves Custom House Quay, London, every 5 days, and goes up the Seine direct to La Villette basin, Paris.

e. CHERBOURG ROUTE.-By steamer from Weymouth, every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday, (the last day, calling at Alderney). Distance, by sea, about 80 miles.

f. DUNKIRK ROUTE.-By steamer direct from Irongate Wharf, two or three times a week, in about 12 hours. Fares to Dunkirk, 10s. and 7s. (See Route 3).

In addition to what is here stated, you may take the route to Jersey from Southampton or Weymouth; thence to Avranches, Granville, St. Malo; and through Brittany to Nantes, &c. Before landing at a French port, make up your mind as to the Hotel you choose, as, by so doing, you may secure to yourself the services of the porter of that hotel directly you land, and so save annoyance from the touters who crowd at the landing. No baggage, except a small parcel, or a carpet bag (at night) is allowed to be taken ashore by the passengers, but is detained at the Douane or Custom House, where you may clear it yourself, or pay a porter (commissionnaires, as they are called) to clear it.

Your passport is taken from you at the Douane, and a provisional passport given you instead, which will take you on to Paris. Or if you make a stay of a day or two at the port, you apply for the provisional pass on leaving it. This you may do through the commissionnaires, who will also clear your baggage. It is much better in either case to make use of such an agent, who will for a franc or two take all the trouble off your hands, and save much bother and loss of time. The regular charge when you clear it is, per package, 7 sous (34d.) if under 10lbs., 14 sous, from 10 to 56fb., 1 franc above that weight; every package being charged, so that the fewer you have the better. For carriage to the hotel you pay a porter 50 cents (5d.) for the first package, and 25 cents for each of the others.

When leaving a French port for England, a permis d'embarquement may be had at the Douane one hour before the steamer starts, or between 1 and 3 p.m. when she leaves at night. Once on board you cannot go ashore again without special permission. You may

bring back, free of duty, a pint of spirits, and half-pint of eau-de-Cologne, By a new arrangement, luggage direct to London, by some of the trains on the South Eastern Railway, is not examined at Dover or Folkestone, but at the London Bridge station. Luggage, also, in steamers from abroad, is examined by the officer on board, between Gravesend and London.

LIVING IN FRANCE-HOTELS-LODGINGS.

Hotels-Table d'Hote.-When you go to an inn choose your bed at once, au premier, au second, au troisième, &c., on the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd story; the higher stories being the cheapest. The average for la chambre is 1 to 13 fr. In your bed room, if you desire it, there is no objection to your taking tea and seeing your friends, if you have not a private sitting room. It is not necessary that you should take your meals in the hotel, though it may be advisable to do so as often as convenience permits. To make the most of your time for sight-seeing, two meals a day may suffice, a good breakfast (déjeuner), to start with, and a dinner at the end of it. Frenchmen seldom make more than two regular meals. Breakfast costs 1 to 2 fr. If you come back to the table d'hôte (ordinary), kept at every hotel at a fixed hour, at a charge of from 3 to 5 francs, you may safely trust yourself to the landlord who presides to look after you. The courses are something in this order :-Soup (potage); bouilli, or the meat from which the soup is made; veal, or some made d ́sh; fish (poisson); poultry (volaille); cutlets; vegetables, separately; roast meat (rôti); pastry (pâtisserie); then fruit, biscuits and cheese. Coffee and liqueurs are charged separately. The drink is vin ordinaire (common wine), a bottle of which is usually included in the charge for dinner. Few dishes in France require a knife. Servants are paid in the bill, 1 to 1 franc a day for each person.

If you order a dinner at an hotel or restaurant, order it at so much a head, as "diner à deux francs et demi" (2 francs), "diner à trois" or "à quatre francs" (3 or 4 francs), &c.; or call for the bill of fare (carte) and choose for yourself, out of a list of 100 or 200 various dishes, filling a respectable volume. Coffee houses, &c., where you may smoke, in the large towns, are called estaminets; common wine and eau de vie (brandy) are sold at the cabarets.

Lodgings-Servants.—When you make a stay at any place, the cheapest plan of living is to take furnished rooms at a private house or hotel (hôtel garni, or maison meublée). You may get them at all prices; the furniture is much more simple than in England. Have a written agreement, signed by both parties, with an inventory of every article, however trifling, and, if advisable from the time of year, a stipulation that the landlord pays the furniture tax (levied in November). Rent is payable in advance.

Servants are engaged by the month; they may be sent away, or they may leave, at any time, by paying up to the day. It is most economical to hire one to come a little while every day to your lodgings, and to bring meals from the shop of the nearest traiteur (cook), who will regularly send his bill of fare to choose from, and supply hot dishes at any hour you please. This convenient arrangement is very common in France. If you want to examine any town, &c., in a hurry, the best thing is to hire a laquais de place, at 5 or 6 francs a day (finding himself), to act as a guide and servant.

When travelling, "a pair of leather sheets may be placed beneath the seat cushions, as a precaution against damp beds, which, however, are seldom met with in France or Italy. Essence of ginger is a useful stimulant; and a tea-spoonful in a cup of tea, on arriving after a day's journey, is very refreshing. Those who are in weak health, and travellers in general,

should eat very sparingly of animal food on a journey, as it tends to produce heat and flushing. Black tea is one of the most useful articles travellers can be provided with, as it is seldom good in small towns or at inns on the road." (Edwin Lee, Companion to the Continent—a most useful Hand Book for the invalid).

As to personal demeanour, it is scarcely necessary to add, that civility and kindness will procure a welcome anywhere. "One touch of nature makes the whole world kin," says the poet. Always carry your passport about with you; "Je suis Anglais" (I am an Englishman), and the production of this document, will gain you admission to almost every public exhibition. Where the authorities (gendarmes, &c.) ask for explanation, be ready to give it with temper and openness. The most insignificant official, abroad, participates in the cares of government, and assumes, in consequence, a very dignified air when dealing with a stranger; but do not mind this, touch your hat (this goes a great way, indeed, with every native you speak to) and answer him as politely as if he were the Préfect de Police. Above all things do not trouble your head about French politics.

In returning to England, it will be necessary to get back the passport, which was exchanged for the pass provisoire at the port you touched at, and thence sent on to Paris. Apply for it again when you reach Paris, or if you return by another way, write for it, from some large town, to which end all the préfectures and sous-préfectures are carefully noted in this Hand Book.

Railways.—A full list of Railways is given in Bradshaw's Continental Guide, and they are so clearly indicated in this Hand Book, by printing the Stations uniformly in thick type throughout the work, that it is useless to say much about them here. The map shows that all the important localities in France are now brought into daily communication with Paris and with each other. The only blank which remains to be filled up is the hilly district round Aurillac, between the Chemins de Fer du Centre and du Midi, for which, however, a scheme is projected, and portions of lines are in actual operation.

The great Railway Companies of France are six, corresponding to the number of sections in this Hand Book, and are as follows:

1. Du Nord, or Northern-Paris to Calais, Boulogne, Dunkirk, Brussels, Cologne, &c. Main line to Calais, 235 miles. Total, about 650 miles.

2. De l'Ouest, or West and North West-Paris to Rouen, Havre, Dieppe, Cherbourg, Rennes (towards Brest). Main line to Rennes, 232 miles. Total, about 740 miles.

3. De l'Orléans, or South West and Centre-Paris to Bordeaux, Nantes, Rochefort, Perigueux, Clermont-Ferrand, &c. Main line to Bordeaux, 363 miles. Total, about 860 miles. 4. Du Midi, or South-Bordeaux to Bayonne, Cette, &c. Main line to Cette, 297 miles. Total, about 600 miles.

5. De Lyons et à la Mediterranée, or South East-Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Cette, Geneva, Grenoble, Salins, &c. Main line, to Marseilles, 534 miles. Total, 1,210 miles 6. De l'Est, or East-Paris to Strasbourg, Mulhouse, &c. Main line to Strasbourg, 312 miles. Total, about 890 miles.

The total length of lines in actual working is about 4,750 miles. Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide registers all the new openings from month to month. The latest opening is that from Marseilles to Toulon, which is now reached in two hours.

The traffic is carefully parcelled out to each system of railways, and each line of the system, so that vehicles to places off a line, run from certain stations, and from those only.