the sister countries, and had originally stood on a great coach-road, a good deal frequented in its time. But since the establishment of railways and new routes, and the withdrawal of the coaches from the old tracks, nearly the whole of the traffic had departed from the place; still the old inn stood, and continued a house of lodging and entertainment for man and beast, on a new foundation, its later energies having been directed to affording board and lodging to families seeking a summer retreat, and to furnishing a resort for the anglers who frequented the 'becks' and 'burns' in the vicinity.

Lady Fermor declared that her old, plain, comfortable rooms, which were fortunately vacant, had not fallen off appreciably, and that she was satisfied she could have all she wanted, till a little rest enabled her to get rid of her cold.

It was a matter of congratulation to Iris and Marianne especially, that they should make this halt in an out-of-the-way corner, and begin their acquaintance with Scotland by an entrance which might be made on foot, and was not much frequented and rendered beaten ground to the destruction of all origi

nal traits and native simplicity and individuality.

As for the male animal, usually so impatient of delay, and restive under what is a purely soothing and agreeable element to the female, the two young men were in that normal condition which occurs or ought to occur to a man only once in his life. They were at the beck and call of the women; the young fellows were meek and docile, ready to assent cheerfully to any arrangement, eager to display themselves in their best colours as they would never be again. For anything more, Sir William showed himself less drawn to Marianne when she was full of glee and enthusiasm, than when the shadow of a trouble, however groundless and self-made, hung over her. He left her to a considerable extent to enchant or plague King Lud, who was thus still hovering on the confines of gaining or losing the prize of his life, while Sir William nursed Lady Fermor, made his own observations, or walked about soberly with Miss Compton.

There was something of quaint dignity in the rural aspect of the inn. It was a steeproofed stone house of considerable preten

sions. The walls were rough-dashed and whitewashed, and further covered by honeysuckle in blossom, and the first 'red red rose of Scotland which the English visitors had seen. They were told the house was an old Border mansion-house, much more recent in date than the crumbling grey towers and towns they had recently seen in Cumberland, but still old enough to have been beheld by Prince Charlie, had he looked that way in his memorable marches to and from Carlisle. The house stood in a rough paddock, shaded by a few gnarled old trees, and the whole lay in the shelter of the four sentinels-Skiddaw and Scafell rising to the south, with Criffell and the Lead Hills starting up to the north.

The party had private rooms, and so did not come in contact with possible dukes and probable bagmen, chatty or frigid, kindly or selfish old and young ladies. But Iris and Marianne made their own of a modest yet frank young chambermaid, the daughter of a neighbouring Scotch ploughman. She had lived all her life in the vicinity, and could tell her eager questioners the local names and identify to their satisfaction the merest purple

compeers

She was

crown of every peak and the misty flash of all the 'wan waters' far and near. more intelligent than the generality of her in England-the three hundred years or so of parish schools in Scotland having had their effect on the brains of the population. She took evident pride in her birthplace and country, and proceeded, on a little solicitation, to pour forth all the old stories which had gathered round a famous locality.

'It was a weel-kenned part aince, mem. A hantle bonnie English leddies and wilfu' English lads sought it out; whiles there were Scotch leddies and gentlemen came in secret, as far as the bounds o' Dumfriesshire and Kirkcudbrightshire, and rode cockin' awa' in braid day. But there was nae needcessity for the like o' them taking sic a tramp; they just did it to be neebour-like. What for did they come, young leddies, are you askin'? Losh div you no ken this was ane o' the toons*-my faither ay maintains it was the chief—where rinawa' marriages were ca'd

* The term 'toon' is used freely in primitive Scotch for any better sort of house-farm-house or mansionhouse as well as for a 'burgh-toon.'

aff, the knot tied and the couple buckled, so that neither faither nor mither, nor law-lord, nor minister o' the kirk, nor the king hissel' could rieve man and wife asunder again.'

'Oh, how nice! how funny!' cried Marianne, that we should have come by chance to such an inn! Tell us about these runaway marriages, Jeannie. Did any happen. in your time? Did you ever see one?' while Iris prepared to listen with interest and amusement.

Weel, I cannot just say I have, mem,' Jeannie was forced to admit, a little crestfallen at having to fail 'fine, lichtsome English young leddies' in such an important particular as would have been supplied by her having been an eye-witness to the deed, and so able to give personal evidence with regard to all that happened. Leastways I have never seen sic grand turnouts as I have heard my faither and mither, and still mair, my grandmither-wha's living to this day with a' her wits aboot her-crack about to their cronies mony a time. Sic marriages hae been going out o' fashion amang gentlefolks for mair than ae generation. But I hae seen a wheen ploughman billies, after a hiring