being those selected by a number of the most eminent growers and exhibitors. That list is inserted in the February Number, and the names are given in ratio according to their merits, and stand as follows:

Constance, F.; Magnificent, Fo.; Gulielma, B.; Pearl, D.; Centurion, B.; Forget-me-not, L.; Negress, G.; Alonzo, F.; Star, B.; Emily, B.; Conspicuum, F.; Virgin Queen, A.; Mont Blanc, S.; Orion, F.; Ariel, F.

(F. Foster; Fo. Foquet; B. Beck; D. Drury; L. Lyne; G. Garth; A. Arnold; S. Story.)

The following varieties (it appears by a correspondent of the Florist) are the first eighteen kinds which have been the oftenest in the winning collections at the exhibitions in or arouud London, the last season, and are arranged according to their frequency, as follows:

Star, Forget-me-not, Gulielma, Rosamond, Pearl, Centurion, Salamander, Rowena, Constance, Negress, Norah, Maes, Lalla Rookh, Orion, Crusader, Mont Blanc, Prince of Orange, Ajax.

It may be safely concluded, that those in the first list, selected by the eminent exhibitors in the spring of 1851, are first rate for exhibiting; and those in the last list, being the most general in the winning collections at the subsequent shows, are also well adapted by form, freedom of bloom, colours, &c., for showing, and persons desirous of now procuring specimens for such purposes, may safely make a selection; for whilst the varieties are of excellent form no doubt, they are very distinct in colours and markings, thus producing a desirable and striking contrast. We are not to conclude, however, that there are no others of good properties, some such are yet scarce, not having been pushed forward by the raisers, and others being yet too high priced to be generally possessed.

CONIFERE.-Every year gathers up additional facts relative to the hardiness of many of the new and rare Coniferæ, which have but very recently been introduced. At page 460 we have given an account of several pines which have withstood the severity of our climate for three or four years; and the information which comes to us from various sources shows that much remains yet to be known in regard to locality, soil, exposure, &c., before we can safely pronounce a tree not to be hardy. We have, we believe, before mentioned, that Cedrus deodara, in a soil where the least moisture stands about its roots in winter, often loses the ends of its branches, while in a dry locality it is as hardy as our native hemlock; and we have recently noticed, in our foreign journals, that the Cryptomeria japonica in Scotland, in cold, damp soils, is almost sure to be destroyed, while in a dry one it has come out of the winter unharmed. These facts show that we should not hastily decide upon the hardiness of a tree, but await the trial of experiments in various soils and exposures. We look forward with high expectations of many valuable additions to our hardy trees and shrubs from California. Mr. Prince, of Flushing, has returned after three years' sojourn there, and in a supplementary catalogue which he has forwarded us, we notice no less than forty species, among them two magnificent evergreen oaks, a California Bay or Laurel, with splendid evergreen foliage, an evergreen Photinia, with clusters of snow-white flowers, an arbor vitæ, forming a tree one hundred feet high, Pinus californica, ponderosa insignis, &c. Cupressus mexicana, Juniperus mexicana, and others. These will all undoubtedly prove hardy, especially in the middle states, and will be most important additions to our already increasing variety of trees and shrubs. It only remains now for our nurserymen to take hold with energy, and propagate a good stock of all the finer species and varieties, and test the hardiness of those of which there are doubts, that gentlemen may know which to buy and which to reject. Some information of this may be obtained by knowing the native habitat, and the country from whence they were introduced. But there is no such satisfactory way of ascertaining the requisite information as by actual trial.-Hovey's Magazine.

BLINDS FOR GLASS HOUSES.-The plan I have adopted for the last three years for covering my greenhouses, conservatories, forcing-pits, and cold-pits, during winter, is this I have had a canvas covering made the size of the roof, which is dressed over with a composition of boiled oil and litharge (one covering was dressed with boiled oil, litharge, aud yellow ochre); but the first composition is the best, I find, because it is more transparent; this is nailed on to the rafters, as close as possible to the upper part of the roof; the other end of the canvas is nailed on to a roller, which rests on the lower ends of the rafters, and is kept in its proper place

by two hooked irons fixed to the rafters. At one end of the roller is a wheel fixed, the outside diameter about fourteen inches, with a groove for the cord to run in, about one inch and a half wide and the same in depth; there is an iron pulley fixed in the wall above the roof, exactly in a straight line with the wheel, and about six inches above the roof; the cord is fixed into the groove of the wheel by a nail, just slipped through the pulley on the top; and thus the roller, with the covering attached, is drawn up and down with the greatest ease. To prevent the wind from lifting it up, I have two or three brass knobs fastened into the sides of the roof, about four feet apart, and a corresponding strip of leather sewed on to the covering, with a button-hole to each. Supposing the roof to be too high to reach from the ground, to button these strips, you have merely to use a short ladder. I have found these coverings to answer admirably, and without any trouble. If you wish to remove them in the spring, you have only to draw out the nails which attack the covering to the rafters. I ought to have said, that when the covering is let down, the roller, as a matter of course, rests on the irons at the bottom of the roof. I use the same sort of rollers and the thinnest calico for shading the conservatories, &c., in summer.-J. W., Gardener's Chronicle. [We have used such coverings too, and found them very valuable.-EDITOR.]

GLASS WALLS.-In our Number for January we noticed these structures. Since that time we have received many letters relative to them. Questions proposed, defects supposed, and praises bestowed. Our answer to all at present is, Mr. Ewens, the inventor, is proceeding in a right direction, and merits the thanks of all horticulturists for what he has done, besides deserving the best means of encouragement by the liberal support of all interested in cultivating fruits and flowers.

The advantages, and value of their application, can only be ascertained but by practical evidence, this can only be realised during an appropriate period. Walledin gardens may have glass walls erected in them without being liable to the casualties of damage to which outer walls would be exposed to. Their adaptation to the successful growth of fruit is excellent. Difficulties have been named by some, relative to some supposed inconvenience in admitting a due proportion of air, not proper access to the trees, &c. Not one such objection is worth entertaining a moment, all that is required in either of the things above named. and any other necessary to grow fruits equal, if not even superior, to what they have been grown under any other circumstances, can be realised inside glass walls.

LUCULIA GRATISSIMA. (J. Simpson.)—As soon as the plants have ceased blooming, remove them into a shed where they can just be kept from frost and damp. Withhold water, nearly wholly, for about three weeks. Then cut in the shoots so as to leave two buds on each, and so as to have a nice shaped head for next season. After pruning place each plant where it can have about 60° of warmth, and when the buds break re-pot it, and raise the temperature to 65°. A moist temperature is best, and the plant delights in shade ; full sun and dry wind, are destructive to it at any time, avoid these. When the new wood has pushed from six to nine inches, stop them by pinching away the leads. This throws strength into them, and by July the plants may be removed into a greenhouse, or other sheltered place out of doors, in order to get the new hardened and perfected properly. By the beginning of September place one plant into the forcing-house, it will soon push bloom; and once a month after introduce others, so that you will have a succession for several months. The plants become habituated to bloom at the same period in successive seasons. If you therefore have them duly treated each season, they will answer every expectation. We have seen the Luculia in bloom from the beginning of September to the end of March.

COTONEASTERS TRAINED AS STANDARDS.-In your Magazine for last December you inserted a list of beautiful winter berry-bearing shrubs and trees for windows, flower-gardens near dwellings, &c. Cotoneasters were included. I have some trees of them on my lawn, which are from three to four yards high. They are single stemmed, about a yard high, and branches, pyramid-formed, to the very top. The branches fall very gracefully down to the grass, covered with white flowers in summer, and loaded with rich red berries throughout winter and spring. They are easily trained to Standards, and grow rapidly. The kinds I have are Cotoneaster microphylla, gracilis, affinis, and frigida.

I have two plants in a shrub border, with stems three yards high, and a large uniform spreading head. They have a pretty effect, growing behind some dwarfer

evergreen in front, aud a row of spruce firs behind; the rich coloured berries appear beautiful.-R. N. Somerset.

HYACINTHS. (E. H. S.)-I should feel obliged by your opinion on the following subject in your next Number.

I have a lot of Hyacinths in pots, and many of them are throwing up offshoots. Ought I to remove them by cutting them off, or will they weaken the one bloom if allowed to remain. [The number of its blossoms is determined, and will expand (barring accident), but the larger development of the petals can be promoted by the greater supply of nutriment. If you retain the offsets, you expend upon them what otherwise employed would contribute to the increased size of the blossoms.]

PRESERVING DAHLIA ROOTS. (A Subscriber.)—After the frost cut off the foliage and flowers, I immediately cut the tops off to about four inches from the ground, and raised the roots a little with a fork to prevent them pushing shoots, and put a little soil over the roots. About a week afterwards I dug them up, placing them in the sun, taking them in. Two or three days after the weather became frosty and foggy, they were then put into a tub, covered with straw, and so remained; in a few days the weather becoming mild, I placed them in the sun as before; decay now appeared, and as they did not improve after a time they were put into a box in the kitchen, and now (January 2nd) all are dead.

I shall be glad to know where I have erred. Likewise give me the names of eighteen varieties of self-coloured and edged Dahlias that are good and constant. Also twelve of the fancy class. [Plant your Dahlias early in order to have the main stem well ripened at the early part of autumn. When frost is expected let the main stem be protected, with a cone of dry chaff, dry ashes, dust, chopped straw, or dry leaves, eight or more inches high, covering it with a sprinkling of soil to prevent it being blown away. This preserves the crown of the root from injury by frost. When soil only is heaped up around the stem, it often becomes wet, and a strong frost occurring, it tends to the main stem and crown of the root being damaged fatally, though it may not be fully apparent for some weeks after; the more unripe the main stem is, the greater its liability to be injured. As soon as the tops are destroyed by frost, cut them down, so that the main stem (with some of its side ones shortened) is left half a yard, or more, long from the crown of the root. Have the roots taken up at once, and if a small portion of soil adheres to them, let it remain. Remove the roots into a plant-house or pit, where there is a gentle heat, place the roots apart from each other, and get the stems dry as soon as can properly be done. In two or three weeks the tops may be cut off to about two or three inches from the crown. With such treatment we have not lost more than one out of an hundred roots during many successive years. We repeat plant early, get the main stem well hardened, preserve it from being operated upon by frost, and allow a long stem to remain at the first cutting of the tops, that there may be means for evaporation, and dry the stem in a plant structure where there is a gentle heat. Afterwards keep from frost and damp, and not a root will perish. List of names in our next.] TROPEOLUM LOBBIANUM.—This beautiful Tropæolum is worthy of a place in every collection where plants are required for winter flowering. Out of all our collection of creepers, this is by far the most showy at this season of the year. I have ten fine specimen plants of it, which have been a complete mass of flowers ever since the middle of October last. As it does not produce seeds freely, it is advisable to propagate it by cuttings, which should be selected in June or early in July. I always place single cuttings in small pots filled with sand, and plunge them in a little bottom heat. As soon as they are well rooted, I pot them into 6-inch pots, and place them in the greenhouse. With proper treatment, they will be ready to receive their final shift into 12-inch pots about the end of August, using soil composed of equal portions of sandy loam and peat, with thoroughly-decomposed horse-manure and a quantity of good sharp sand, to keep the compost porous. After this final shift, I place a wire trellis to each plant, firmly securing it to the pot. They are then placed in the stove, and, as soon as the plants commence rapid growth, every shoot is carefully trained, so as to cover the trellis regularly over. By the end of September this is complete, and the plants will be showing hundreds of bright orange flowers. As soon as the blossoms fully expand, the plants may be removed to the conservatory or greenhouse, where they will continue to produce a succession of flowers for a long time.-S. T., Lichfield.—Gardeners' Chronicle.