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are finely laid out: but alas! this was not the time of year for perceiving their beauties. The gallery contains some of the best paintings both of old and modern masters. One in particular struck me in going along: Swindlers drawing out a Card. There are many beautiful Views in Switzerland. Here too is to be scen a fine portrait of the celebrated lord Stafford on horseback; and another picture representing three kings, all said to be of the Stafford family. Visitors are also shewn a room, called Queen Anne's room, where there is a table and mirror-frame, both of solid

silver.

Regretting that the opportunity of remaining in the gallery was so extremely short, I pushed on to Wentworth House, the noble palace of earl Fitzwilliam, and arrived in time to get a good view of the paintings. These are most valuable, being the elite of all the best masters. The chief of them are as follows: Jason killing the Dragon, by Salvator Rosa; Cupid Sleeping, by Guido; a Magdalen, by Titian; Bacchus, by sir Joshua Rey nolds; Madona and Child, by Raphael: there are likewise several good pictures by Ostade, Teniers, and Domenichino. In other apartments are portraits of Charles I. and his queen Henrietta; of archbishop Laud; and of the celebrated lord Stafford dictating to his Secretary. In a large ball-room there are bronze figures of the Apollo Belvidere; the Venus de Medicis; the Antinous; and a Contemplating Philosopher, and two Dying Gladiators. Over the hall door are suspended a surprisingly broad pair of elk's horns, brought from lord Fitzwilliam's Irish estates. Within this noble mansion it will give every visitor pleasure to see an elegant and comforta ble chapel: as well to hear that prayers are performed here every evening, when the family are at home. The chief object of attention in the grounds, is an elegant mausoleum to the memory of the marquis of Rockingham. The inscription is good, but too long: an inscription, like an epitaph, should be of such dimensions as that he who runs may

read.

By the time I entered Rotherham it was quite dark; so that I had just time to take a hasty dinner, and fill up my day's pleasure by going to the play. A strolling party were performing some wretched piece, by desire of the Tickhill volunteers. The chief character, by the two brushes which ran from his ears to

his chin, might have been well calculated for the part of Don Ferolos Whiskerandos. The music was that to which a bear would dance: and what little wit there was, seemed not ill fitted for a company which might be supposed would witness such a spectacle. One man sung a song betwixt the play and the farce, in the character of a cake-seller each verse ended with the genteel burthen of—“ All my eye and Betty Martin." One, and one only, of the stanzas remains in my memory: "The ladies they like bride-cake,

If

And of this I'm sure and sartain,

they say they don't like the men, It's all my eye and Betty Martin!" The next morning I arose before light, breakfast. and reached Worksop to At the end of the town, which is quite uninteresting, a lodge indicates the entrance to Worksop, Manor, a seat of the Norfolk family. It is a much more magnificent mansion than the ridiculous piece of mock-antique Arundel Castle in its repaired state, to which the present duke gives the preference as a residence. The front is three hundred feet in length, not quite so noble as that of Wentworth House. In the centre is a portico of six columns of the Corinthian order, surmounted by a pediment which is crowned with statues. The park is about eight miles in circumference.

Within, the furniture, portraits, and other decorations, are all in the old style: hangings and beds of crimson damask, and of sky-blue velvet; the history of Joseph in tapestry of Brussels, and rich Indian scenery in that of the Gobelins. There is a fine allegorical fresco painting of the Arts and Sciences, in a gallery, by Le Breuger; a beautiful portrait of a duchess of Milan: many fine paintings, chiefly by Vandyke; the chief of which is Cain slaying Abel: and in a word, all the blood of all the Howards, preserved in the veins of the proprietors of its different portions, who frown along the deserted galleries, some in armour, some in whiskers; and those of a still later date, in their large wigs, and square shoes. residence of the duke of Portland. stands Welbeck, my next object, a seat and about five miles from Worksop Manor. It is a poor shabby old place; but within, the seat of elegance and hospitality. I was received most courteously by a housekeeper, who regretted her inability to conduct me through the house, the family being at home, and all the rooms occupied, My curiosity was conse

quently

quently only gratified by the view of a Gothic library, which is not yet finished. This place was formerly a religious house of the Augustine friars. The park contains many old trees, particularly the celebrated Greendale oak, with a road cut through the trunk, and bearing one branch, which alone indicates its being still in life.

From Welbeck I rode on to Clumber, and was there repaid for my late disappointment, the family having fortunately left the house to go to London only the preceding day, and all the rich furniture being still uncovered. Clumber combines magnificence and comfort, more than any noblemau's mansion in England. The whole house is richly carpeted; the railings of the stair-cases curiously wrought and gilt in the shapes of crowns, with tassels hanging down between them from cords twisted in knots and festoons. All the bed rooms are decorated with superb furniture; beds in the form of tents and pavilions, curtains twisted in graceful foldings, large portable mirrors, ceilings elegantly finished, Turkey carpetings, inlaid cabinets, and time-pieces mounted with classical taste. There is a library, a music-room, and an elegant chapel with windows of stained glass. From the duchess's dressing-room is seen a fine view of the sheet of water terminated by a bridge, which forms one of the summer beauties of the place. The duke's private study is as complete a boudoir as can well be imagined. In this princely abode the writer of romance might enrich his fancy, and the poet imagine himself wandering through an enchanted palace: nor are nobler specimens of the arts here wanting. It would be tedious to enumerate the paintings of the best ancient and modern artists which adorn the walls of Clumber: there are an Orator, by Rembrandt; two small pieces, representing Wild Scenes with Shepherds, by Salvator Rosa; a Lion and Wild Boar, by Rubens; and Two Boys, by Gainsborough: all admirable pictures. In the collection are paintings by Vandyke, Canaletti, Rubens, Battoni, Sneyders, Old John, Wouverman, Teniers, Claude, and Van Huysum. Of the latter may be observed a Flower Piece, with a dew-drop exquisitely resting on a tulip-leaf. One room is adorned with seven paintings in water colors, brought from the ruins of Herculaneum. In the chapel there is a Dead Christ and Mary, after Raphael. The larger dining-room, a magnificent apartment, which could easily accom

modate 150 guests, is hung round with
appropriate paintings of fish and fruits,
by the best masters in each of these de-
partments. Every thing reflects the
highest credit on the taste displayed in
the accommodations and
found in this delightful retreat.

ornaments

The last of the dukeries is Thoresby, formerly a seat of the duke of Kingston, but now possessed by Mr. Pierrepoint. There are no paintings of any consequence in this mansion; and the only object worthy of notice is a marble saloon with beautiful columns, a tessellated pavement, and lamps in candelabras. Having thus made good use of my time by completing, in one winter's day, the tour of these four seats, I rode forward to Ollerton, where I was annoyed for the rest of the evening, by riders boasting of their horses, their employers, and their consequence at inns.

The next morning I breakfasted at Newark, which stands on an island formed by two branches of the Trent, which re-unite their streams a little below it. The castle was built by King Stephen; and here King John died. Near Newark is found a kind of stone, which forms a composition used as a substitute for stucco.work. My next stage was Grantham, from which place I rode forward to Belvoir Castle; but, unfortunately, on arriving there in the dark, I found the whole of the inn occupied by servants belonging to the gentlemen vi sitors of the duke of Rutland: I found it necessary to go round two miles before I could reach an inn. To add to my misfortunes I lost my way; and not until I had wandered about in the snow, leading my horse for a couple of hours, did I reach the little comfortable hospitable inn of Knipton.

Early next morning I walked to the castle, which stands proudly on a commanding eminence, from which the flat country is distinctly seen extending many miles. Great improvements are carrying on, but the new rooms are paltry: when compared internally, as the residence of peers, Clumber is a palace-Belvoir a pig-sty. The collection of paintings is small, but very choice: here is a tine Peter denying Christ, by M. Angelo and other master-pieces, by Salvator Rosa and Lucca Giordano; nor must. I omit the original design of the window in New College, the work of sir Joshua Reynolds, A full-length portrait of Henry VIII. by Hans Holbein, is said to be extreinely valuable.

Getting

Getting as quickly as I could move over a vile cross country, I arrived in Stamford, abounding in churches and antiquities, in time to run out to Bur legli, and inspect the collection before the close of day. Lord Exeter's collection has been highly extolled; and it is always with distrust and reluctance that an individual should oppose the public voice, yet I cannot avoid expressing my opinion that this celebrated assortiment is more numerous than select. With the exception of the wonderful Saviour's Head, by Carlo Dolce; a Holy Family, by Raphael; and one or two other pieces; the rest are either uninteresting as to thear subjects, or the works of secondrate masters. Rubens's coarse figures, dancing with their heads all on a level, and having a broad light cast full in front, or Carlo Maratte's cold insipid performances, meet the eye in every apartment. Here are some ceilings finely painted with mythological subjects, representing Heaven and Tartarus. Among the curiosities, I observed a magnificent state hed, and casts of the oxen of different counties.

I slept at Wantford, where the inn is good, and so it ought, for the charges

are enormous.

My next day's journey commenced with an excursion to Peterborough; where I got a good and cheap breakfast. The ancient monastery of this place was founded in the seventh century. It was destroyed by the Danes; and being rebuilt by King Edgar, continued a mitred abbey until 1541, when Henry VIII. converted it into a cathedral and bishop's see: the cathedral has the finest front perhaps in England, next to the elevation of York Muster. Near the gate is the portrait of an old sexton, who buried two queens. The tomb of Queen Catherine, Henry VIII.'s first wife, is marked by a brass plate. There are many figures of abbots; and a curious table, containing the names of all the abbots and bishops in chronological order. But the chief curiosity is a tomb-stone lately dug up, hearing date of the year 870: it is in the form of a small house.

got carly in the morning to Waltham and the day afterwards being Sunday, I Abbey, where I attended the morning service. Waltham Abbey stands a mile from Waltham Cross, and to the east of the great road. of the memorials of Edward I. to his Waltham Cross is one queen; a beautiful Gothic structure in high preservation. The church at Waltham Abbey is raised on the site of the old monastery. It was founded in 1062 nothing now remains of it out a ga?, and by Harold, afterwards king of England; bridge. measure of consulting the Universities on Here Cranmer prop sed the the propriety of Henry VIII's di

I had now nearly completed my plan of seeing every thing interesting on the road. I rode through Yaxley, where there are extensive barracks; Stilton, celebrated for its cheese; Huntingdon, which had formerly fifteen churches; and stopt for the night at Godmanchester, a mile beyond this place. The next morning my way lay through Caxton and Royston to Wade's Mill, near Ware:

vorce.

extends through a line of delightful vilThe way from hence to the metropolis lages; and is one of the best approaches to London. Enfield Highway, Scotland Green, Edmonton, Tottenhamn, Stamford Hill, Stoke Newington, Dalston, Kingsland, Islington, afford a noble proof of the opulence and taste of the inhabitants of London, in presenting a succession of elegant villas, terraces, and ornamental cottages.

For the Monthly Magazine.
ACCOUNT of the FEJEE ISLANDS.
[From the Sydney Gazette and New South
Wales Advertiser.]

Ο

N the 7th of October last, which

was shortly after the arrival at the Fejces of the Favourite, Capt. Campbell, Mr. Thomas Smith, his second officer, was unexpectedly made prisoner by the natives, with seven others of the ship's company, and remained nine days in captivity; during which interval hie experienced and witnessed horrors, from his narrative of which the following account is accurately deduced.

It begins with stating, that on the 7th of October he went from Sandal-wood Bay round to the Bay of Highlea, with three boats, in quest of Sandal-wood, one of which, the ship's long-boat, he commanded; another, a whale-boat, was under the command of a Mr. Lockerby, formerly chief officer of the American ship, Jenny; and the third, under Mr. Graham, who fortunately returned laden to the vessel in time to escape the calamities that fell upon the former two. At Highlea he heard that Bullan. dam, the chief of the district of Buya, was expected with a force to make war upon the island of Taffere or Taffera, and that it was the intention of the Highleans

to

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