Nail up fig trees with strong nails. Gather fruit early in the morning, and lay it in a cool room. Finish the fruit room, by white-washing or painting, and putting the shelves in order. Destroy insects of all sorts. Nail up every week the fruit trees. Nail up nectarines and peaches frequently. Attend to pear and plum trees, both on walls and against espaliers, constantly. Transplant strawberry runners, if rooted, in rainy weather, and cut off all the others as they shoot. Vines must be constantly nailed up, as they shoot very fast, and the bunches of grapes begin to be heavy, and all weak shoots must be constantly taken off. Water strawberry runners lately planted, or any blighted

fruit trees.

Greenhouse.-Take off the offsets of aloes, both African and American, and plant them in separate pots. Often water the cuttings of myrtles, geraniums, &c. Earth the tops of all the pots. Water geraniums and myrtles constantly, but pour on the water gently. Oranges still bud till the middle of the month. Prune any which require it, as this is the season of their shooting. Water the young stocks and those on hot-beds. Finish the painting and white-washing of the greenhouse. Finish picking out seedling plants, and water and shade '. them. Shift the plants which require it into large pots, and earth the others. Succulent plants should be shifted, and, if the end of the month be rainy, take them in. Water very freely, if the weather be dry, but do it in the morning.

SEPTEMBER.

Gardens begin now to fail of their wonted beauty, and therefore dying flowers, all litter, and every thing unsightly, should be removed, and the ground frequently cleaned, that every thing may look neat if not gay.

it.

Kitchen garden.-Aromatic herbs and shrubs should have their decayed stalks cut down to strengthen them; and transplant them. Beans planted in July must be earthed up, and the tops pinched off as soon as they begin to flower. Plant out the third crop of kale and the first of Anjou; hoe the other crops, and earth them up. Plant out part of the fourth crop of broccoli, and earth up the other crops. Plant out the fifth crop of cabbage; prick out the first crop, on a south border, and earth up any that want Plant out the third crop of Savoys and red cabbages; and the first crop of cabbageturnips. Hoe carrots sown in July, and leave them at six inches distance. Cauliflowers sown last month must be pricked out, watered, and shaded until they are rooted. Earth up the fourth crop, and break down the leaves if they begin to flower. Plant out the fourth crop of celery, and earth up the first and second to blanch. Chardons will also require blanching. Plant out more of the second crop of coleworts, a few at a time, to thin the bed. Sow cress and mustard every week, and at the end of the month under glasses. Cucumbers for pickling should be finished gathering; which will show the advantage of sticking them, and pickling early. Plant out a little of the fourth crop of endive to thin it, and give the rest more room. Tie up some to blanch. Eschalots, garlic, and rocam

bole, should have the off-sets and small roots planted. Lettuces must be thinned early in the seed-bed, if sown thick, and pricked out on a south border to about four or five inches asunder. Melons for pickling will now be fit to gather. Make mushroom beds, at the beginning of the month. Gather nasturtiums for pickling. Finish sowing onions early in the month, the second crop of Welsh. Weed those sown last month before the weeds are high. Plant water-cresses. Prick out cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuces. Gather seeds constantly as they ripen. Sow cress, mustard, turnips, and water-cresses. Finish sowing spinach for spring use, and hoe that sown last month. Plant tarragon roots. Hoe and thin turnips, turnip radishes, and black Spanish radishes. Water in dry weather any crops lately planted out. Weeds must be particularly attended to amongst the onions, carrots, and lettuces, while they are small.

Flower garden and shrubbery.-Plant anemones, single flowered, at the end of the month to flower early. Annuals in pots must be frequently watered to ripen the seeds. Remove auriculas, that they may have the morning sun, and finish slipping them. Balsams, cockscombs, egg-plants, or other curious annuals in pots, which are wished to raise seeds from, must be placed under shelter in an alcove, greenhouse, or room fronting the south, and then the seeds will ripen. Prepare beds for planting bulbous roots early in the month. Plant box for edgings at the beginning of the month, or as soon as any rain falls. Plant bulbous roots of all sorts early in the month; but the off-sets, and lilies, and crown imperials, first. Plant evergreens at the end of the month, if the ground be moist. Grass walks may now be repaired, or new ones made. Weed and roll gravel walks often. Plant hyacinths, jonquilles, lilies, narcissuses, polyanthus-narcissuses, &c., at the end of the month. Plant laurel cuttings in the shade. Layer laurustinuses and other shrubs. Take up lillies which flower late, as soon as their leaves are decayed, but plant the off-sets again directly, and all other sorts of lilies. Place mignonette in pots, under shelter. Myrtles and greenhouse plants against walls must be constantly watered in dry weather. Plant out perennial seedlings, and divide the old roots. Plant box for edgings; evergreens, crown imperials, and lilies, early in the month; cuttings of laurel, honeysuckles, jessamines, shrubs, and trees of all sorts; but not until after there has been some rain. Strawberries and thrift for edgings. Gather seeds in the middle of the day. Weed and earth seedling beds. Prune, hoe, and rake shrubberies. Sow hardy annuals, as cornbottles, larkspurs, panseys, persicarias, poppies, sweet peas, &c., to flower early in spring. Constantly take off strawberry runners, and replace any of the edgings which want; dig up entirely the old plants; then take away some of the earth, and bring in fresh loam. Plant tulips, and all sorts of bulbous roots, the off-sets first. Lay down turf for grass walks. Constantly hoe and rake weeds off the ground; in dry weather the seeds will ripen, and in wet weather the roots will strike again.

Fruit garden and orchard.-Destroy ants, flies, wasps, and insects of all sorts constantly. Sow cherry kernels on beds. Plant currant and gooseberry cuttings and trees. Nail up fig-trees frequently with strong shreds. Attend to the fruit room, and pick out the rotten pears, or any other sorts which begin to decay. Put grapes into bags of crape, gauze, or paper. Plant currants, gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries. Strawberries should be planted early in the month, and then they will be well rooted before the frost begins. Dress the beds, and plant some strong roots in pots to force. Plant some alpines in pots, and put them under a frame, and they will bear fruit till January. Topdressing, in cold wet weather, of soot, salt, or ashes, is proper to be spread on the borders of fruit trees. Vines will require frequent nailing; take of all the weak shoots, that the grapes may not be too much shaded.

Greenhouse. Remove aloes into the greenhouse in the beginning of the month, but leave out the American ones till the end. Plant cuttings and seedlings in separate pots, and earth the tops of all the pots. Set in geraniums with variegated leaves early in the month, and leave off watering the leaves. Take myrtles out of the ground and pot them. Fresh earth orange trees, thin the fruit, or most of it will fall off, and take them into the house at the end of the month. Take in succulent plants of all sorts early in the month, and give them very little water. Take in aloes, variegated geraniums, and succulent plants, at the beginning of the month; orange trees and tender plants at the end; but myrtles and hardy plants may remain out till the beginning of the next month, unless there is an appearance of frosty nights. Water in the morning, and keep the windows open all night; leave off watering the geraniums over the leaves.

OCTOBER.

This is the chief month of the year for planting trees, shrubs, &c. No part of it should be lost, in either working the ground well for the purpose, or putting in the plants as soon as possible. Early planting, if the ground be fit, is of more consequence than many are willing to ad

mit.

Kitchen garden-As October is the only time to crop a kitchen garden before winter, omit not any thing ordered now, till next month, and if it can be done at the beginning, instead of the end of the month, it will be much better, lest rain should come on. Weed aromatic herbs and shrubs in beds, and spread some earth over them. Cut down asparagus stalks, hoe the weeds, and spread earth from the paths on them, but first a little rotten dung. Prepare hot-beds for forcing, and plant three-year old plants for the first crop. Beans; the early Mazagan must be planted on a south border, for the first crop. Plant out Anjou boorcole, the second crop early in the month, and hoe the ground around the others. Plant out broccoli, the rest of the fourth crop. Plant out half the cabbages sown in August, of the early sorts, in a warm situation.

Plant cabbage-turnips carly in the month, and earth up the others. Finish hoeing carrots,

sown in July. Attend to cauliflowers, beginning to flower, by breaking down the leaves. Those intended for glasses will want planting out; let there be six to each glass, and the rest in a frame, or under a south wall. Plant out celery, the fifth and last crop, and earth up the second to blanch. Finish planting coleworts, Sow cress, mustard, and radish, under glasses, and on a hot-bed at the end of the month. The up endive, to blanch, or lay tiles on it, and plant more. Plant eschalots, garlic, and rocambole. Throw up vacant ground into ridges. Hoe boorcole, broccoli, cabbages, and cabbage-turnips; and draw up earth to their stems. Hoe carrots. Prepare hot-beds, for forcing asparagus and lettuces. Plant out lettuces, cabbage and brown Dutch, on asparagus beds, some under glasses, and others on hot-beds for forcing. Finish gathering melons for pickling. Plant mint in pots, on a hot-bed. Cover mushroom beds well with straw and mats, to defend them from rain. Quions will require to be very well weeded, and should be examined two or three times in the month. Sow peas, the early hotspurs on a south border near the wall, for a first crop. Plant on hot-beds asparagus for the first crop, and lettuces, and mint. Plant out to stand for seed beets, cabbages, carrots, parsley, parsnips, turnips. Weed pot-herbs and sweet herbs on beds; stir up the earth, and spread some over them. Seeds of all sorts should be threshed out, dried, and put into bags. Sow peas on a south border. Hoe spinach for the last time before winter. Destroy weeds in every part of the garden.

Flower garden and shrubbery.-Any thing ordered last month, if omitted, finish early in this, as the beginning of this month is the proper time when the flower garden and shrubbery should be put into order before the winter. Finish planting anemones, to flower early, the first week in the month. Remove auriculas and carnations into shelter, and in wet weather cover them with mats. Balsams, cockscombs, eggplants, &c., intended to raise seed from, must be constantly attended to, to hasten the ripening of the seed. Turn over beds and composts for bulbous roots frequently. Finish planting box for edgings, early in the month. Plant bulbous roots for forcing in pots or boxes, and finish planting all others before the rain sets in. Plant crocuses, aconites, snow-drops, and any bulbous roots which flower early in the spring, at the beginning of the month. Plant evergreens of all sorts early in the month. Finish laying grass walks, and repair any difficult places. Weed gravel walks, and roll them in dry weather. Plant hyacinths, jonquilles, lilies, narcissuses and polyanthus-narcissuses, early in the month. Finish layering of shrubs. Take off layers and suckers, if rooted. Mignonette should be removed under glasses, or else into a greenhouse or

warm closet. Finish plauting perennials. Plant bulbous roots early in the month; as aconites, amaryllises, cornflags, crown-imperials, daffodils, garlic moly, irises, martagons, pancratiums, ranunculuses, snow-drops, star of Beth

.ehem, tulips, &c. Plant also perennials at the beginning of the month: shrubs and trees of all sorts: strawberries and thrift for edgings: place seedlings in pots, under a south wall in the ground; and weed and earth seedlings in beds. Gather seeds in the middle of the day. Finish pruning and hoeing shrubberies, to lie neat for the winter. Finish planting shrubs and trees. Take off suckers and layers; and, if small, plant them in beds two feet asunder, to be ready against the next season. Finish planting tulips early in the month, and all sorts of bulbous roots. Finish laying turf early in the month. Hoe and rake off weeds, or they will root again. If possible leave nothing ordered this month unfinished, on account of the uncertainty of the weather in the succeeding month.

Fruit garden and orchard.-Gather apples and pears in the middle of fine dry days. Plant apple trees at the end of the month. Plant currants, gooseberries, and raspberries. Examine grapes in bags, to see that they are not mouldy or decayed. Gather nectarines and peaches in the middle of the day. Orchards, or fruit trees intended to be planted, should have the ground prepared, and the holes digged some weeks before-hand; if the soil be very good, some loam and rotten dung should be mixed together, and the trees planted in it. If the orchard be wet, bring a cart load of earth at least for each tree; form the earth into a little hill, about a foot high, and plant the tree upon it, but dig up the tuft first a foot deep in a circle of four or five feet over. Gather peaches in the middle of the day, and, if not ripe, lay them in the sun for a few days in a window; they are much improved by roasting gently like apples, and eating them with sugar and wine. Plant peach trees at the end of the month. Plant fruit trees of all sorts. Prune all sorts of wall trees, but sweep off all the leaves first with a birch broom. Finish dressing strawberry beds, and water the alpines frequently under the frames. Vines in pots should be transplanted; make the holes ready, pour water into them, and then gently turn them out of the pot, or place the pot in the hole and break it, and then the roots cannot be disturbed, and you will have fruit the next year. Finish pruning and planting wall trees, early in the month.

Greenhouse.-Give air very freely in the day time, and leave some of the windows open at night, until the end of the month. Earth the tops of the pots. Take in geraniums early in this month, if not done the last; water them sparingly, or they will begin to shoot afresh, and pick off constantly all decayed leaves. Clean leaves well, before the plants are set in order, and pick off dead ones. Take in myrtles towards the end of the month. Orange trees should not remain out this month; examine the leaves before setting them in, for insects, which fasten themselves underneath, and pick them off; if any leaves be mildewed, wash them with warm water and a sponge. Water succulent plants sparingly. Water myrtles, orange-trees, winter cherries, and all woody plants often. Open the windows, every fine day, but keep them shut in foggy weather.

NOVEMBER.

Though the last is the better month for planting, yet this is the time more commonly adopted; it certainly must not now be delayed. The leaves not being all off should be no obstacle.

Kitchen garden.-Cut down artichoke stalks, and earth them up. Asparagus on hot-beds must have air given to it; and make and plant the second bed; cut down the stalks, and finish dressing the beds. Finish planting beans for the first crop. Plant beets, cabbages, and carrots for seed. Take up carrots and lay them in sand. Give some air to cauliflowers under glasses and frames, in the middle of fine days. Earth up celery when dry, to blanch. Sow cress, mustard, and radishes on hot-beds. Take up endive, not planted out, and plant on the south side of a ridge, raised up two feet high. Throw up vacant ground into ridges. Prepare hot-beds for forcing asparagus and lettuces. Attend to lettuces in hot-beds, and give them air in the middle of the day. Guard mushroom beds from wet. Take up parsnips and large rooted parsley. Draw earth to the peas and beans above ground, and place traps to catch mice. Plant asparagus on a hot-bed for the second crop endive on the south side of a ridge: and beets, cabbages, and carrots, for seed. Dig up potatoes, sort them, pick out the damaged ones, and reserve the best for use in winter. Sow early short-topped radishes about the tenth day, and spread wheaten straw over the beds. Dig up salsafy, skirrets, and scorzoneras. Sow cress, mustard, and radishes on hot-beds for small sallading. Hoe spinach again, if it be too thick. Drain off stagnant water; weed all the crops; and take off the weeds to prevent their rooting again.

Flower garden and shrubbery.-November being generally a very rainy month, if any thing happened to be omitted last month, let it be done early in this. Bulbous roots, intended for blowing in water early, may now be placed on the glasses, and let all others be finished planting at the beginning of the month. Those in pots or boxes must be frequently watered, and placed as much in the sun and light as possible; for in the shade they will draw up weak. Composts wanted for flowers in spring should now be collected; such as loam, sand, willow-earth, rotten tan, dung, &c. Let them be laid in dry sunny places, and be frequently turned over, but by no means in cold wet places. Gravel walks near the house should be rolled a little when the weather will permit; their being kept hard prevents weeds from growing; but never throw them up into ridges. Leaves should be constantly swept up as they fall, or they will spoil the walks. Myrtles planted against walls should have two boards about six inches wide fixed, one at each side, with a third at the top, on which a mat should be nailed, to roll up and down occasionally. Plant early in the month all bulbous roots; particularly those for forcing. Shrubberies should be pruned, and digged or hoed. All sorts of shrubs and trees should be finished planting early in the month; and long litter, straw, or turf, turned downwards, should be laid over the roots to keep out the frost.

Trenches should be digged, and drains made to carry off the water wherever it stands; a large flower pot, placed downwards in the earth, will carry off a great quantity of water.

Fruit garden and orchard.-Finish gathering apples and pears; after they have lain together and sweated, the most valuable sorts, which keep long, should be wiped dry with a cloth. Prune and plant apple and pear trees. Prune, and pull off the green figs. Attend to the fruit room; pick out every leaf, and all specked and decayed apples or pears. Finish planting orchards at the beginning of this month, and stake the trees. Finish planting and pruning of espaliers, standard and wall trees, early in the month. Place strawberries in pots for forcing, under frames; and attend to the alpines. Finish pruning and planting of wall trees.

Greenhouse.-Give air in the middle of the day, unless when very foggy. Earth the tops of any of the pots, when any mould appears on them. Constantly pick off geranium leaves as they decay more than any others, and give them water very sparingly: also, all decayed leaves, as they corrupt the air of the house very much. Succulent plants, as aloes, ficoides, &c., will require but very little water; large aloes the most. Water woody plants often, but give them only little at a time; as dampness is more prejudicial in a greenhouse than cold.

DECEMBER.

The garden is no longer decorated with flowers or verdure; but it contains many things of promise, which demand attention. There are still some works of labor; and, where there is plenty of dung and frumes, hot-beds may be made use of, and spring anticipated.

Kitchen garden.-Asparagus must be planted for the third crop, and give it both light and air to color it. If the beds be not warm enough, line them with fresh dung. Boorcole, broccoli, and cabbages must be well earthed up, to keep them upright, and all decayed leaves picked off. Cauliflower plants must have air while the weather is mild, and pick off dead leaves. Earth up celery when dry, for blanching. Sow cress, mustard, and radishes, on hot-beds every week. Weed and turn over dunghills in frosty weather. Tie up endive for blanching. Hot-beds must be attended to, and plenty of hot dung and loam provided for cucumbers and melons. Lettuces under glasses must have air given them in the middle of mild days. Mushroom beds must have dry straw. Earth up peas and beans above ground. Roots preserved in sand, as carrots, potatoes, &c., should be finished before the frost sets in. Search for snails in the holes of the walls. Sow cress, mustard, and radishes, on hot-beds every week. Repair, grind, and put in order tools. Set traps to catch mice in;

and make trenches to drain off the water.

Flower garden and shrubbery.--Examine auriculas frequently, and pick off all decayed leaves. Bulbous roots for forcing must be constantly attended to, to give them water, which should always be soft; and change that in the glasses when foul. Carnations in pots should be plunged into the ground; but, if ashes or sand

be put between the pots, it will keep them dryer than earth. Flowers and shrubs in pots should be plunged into the ground, to keep the frost from the roots. Forest trees may still be planted, if there be not much frost; otherwise it is better to defer it till spring. Shrubs and trees may still be pruned; and long litter, &c., laid over the roots of those lately planted. Trenches and drains should be made wherever the water stands.

Fruit garden and orchard.-Examine apples and pears in the fruit room; pick out such as appear the soundest of the best sorts, and wrap each in a piece of paper. This will cause them to keep several weeks longer. Repair espaliers; prune the trees; spread some rotten dung on the border, and fork it in. Finish pruning fig trees. Guard the fruit room from frost, but give it some air, when the weather is not very damp nor frosty. Examine the orchard, and take care that the newly planted trees are well staked and mulched; and cut out the dead wood from the standard trees. Finish pruning and planting wall trees early in the month.

Greenhouse-Air must be given whenever the weather is mild and will permit it. Earth the tops of the pots, but first take out a little of the old. Frost must be guarded against, by keeping the doors and windows close, when it begins to freeze. Constantly pick off decayed leaves. Myrtles and other greenhouse plants against walls will require to have mats placed before them; and in the middle of fine days, before the frost is set in, rolled up, but let down again at night. Long litter, or rotten tan, should also be laid over the roots to preserve them from the frost. Myrtles may also be preserved in deep pits made against a south wall, and covered in very frosty weather with mats and straw nearly a foot thick. Many are preserved in the nurseries near London, with only hurdles laid over the pit, without any glass, and covered very thick in frost with straw and mats. Succulent plants will require but very little water. Water those plants which require it very sparingly. Open the windows for three or four hours in the middle of the day.

SECT. V.-MODERN IMPROVEMENTS IN HORTI

CULTURE.

Thus far the general directions we have given will enable the reader to superintend the ordinary occupations of the garden throughout the year. Certain considerable improvements in this art within the last few years demand a more particular description. We shall class them alphabetically under the same general divisions of horticultural la or that pervade our calendar, viz. the kitchen, flower, and fruit garden :—

I. In the KITCHEN GARDEN-1. An early purple variety of broccoli, called the Cape broccoli, first attracts our notice. It is of a very superior flavor, but apt in cultivation to start into flower; clever management, however, will obviate this. Two crops are sown in the middle of April and May, the first on any border of light soil. The plants may be removed in a month into sandy loam, manured; and should not stand nearer than two feet apart. Frequent hoeing is necessary. The

second crop should be planted in pots directly from the seed bed. Then sink the pots until the broccoli heads are formed. If these pots in the end of November, are placed in a glass frame, very fine broccoli may be had in the depth of

winter.

2. Cale, Sea.-Sea-cale is now cultivated on a very superior principle, and is an important market vegetable at Covent Garden. It should be trenched at least two feet deep in a light soil, and having a dry bottom. Recent dung or coarse manure must not be added, the shoots being apt to imbibe a disagreeable flavor from them sea-weed or rotten leaves are best as manure. The plant may be propagated by offsets, or by small pieces of the root, having eyes or buds attached to them; but it rises freely from seed, sown in patches in March, and leaving fully two feet between each patch. During the first two years, it must be well hoed and weeded. At the approach of winter, some gardeners throw a little light stable dung, or a covering of fresh sandy soil, over the whole bed. In the third year, the plants are fit for blanching; and, if the bed be well managed, it will continue productive for several years. It is proper, however, to sow a small bed yearly to ensure a succession of young and vigorous plants. Fresh seed may be kept in readiness, by allowing two or three plants to produce their flowers and seeds each year; the flowers, which are white and smell of honey, appear in May, and the seeds in September.

In the first volume of the Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural Society, Sir George Mackenzie describes an excellent method of blanching. The sea-cale bed is covered early in the spring with clean and dry oat-straw, which is removed as often as it becomes musty. The shoots rise through the straw, and are at the same time pretty well blanched. Mr. Barton, gardener at Bothwell Castle, employed treeleaves for this purpose. He found that a thin covering of stable dung, sufficient only to keep the leaves from being blown about, was useful in forwarding the production of the sea-cale shoots, a slight fermentation being thus induced. The shoots rise sweet and tender among the leaves, in the early part of spring; but it must evidently be difficult in this way to regulate the heat of fermentation. Another method consists in placing over each plant a flower-pot of the largest size, inverted; and blanching-pots, constructed for this express purpose, are described by Mr. Maher, in the first volume of the Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London. Each pot, during the season, will, upon an average, furnish a dish and a half of shoots.

By means of these pots sea-cale is forced with great facility. In autumn vigorous seakale is dressed off in the open border, that is, the stalks are cut over, and all decayed leaves are removed. The ground is at the same time loosened around the plants, and a thin covering of fine gravel, or sifted ashes, laid on the surface. A pot with a moveable lid is now placed over each plant, or patch of plants, if two or more have remained together, and stable litter is closely packed all round the pots, and pressed firmly

down, to the depth of a foot or more; but the fermentation produced should never exceed 60° Fahrenheit. In the space of a month shoots will be ready for cutting; and successive shoots may be thus obtained throughout the winter. This method of forcing sea-kale, has universally superseded the plan of planting it in hot-beds, under glass frames, where it has been tried.

3. Cauliflower plants have been of late preserved through the winter in the following way :— At the end of October the firmest and best shaped are lifted with a ball of earth attached to the roots, and arranged round the borders of the peach-house, or vinery, close together, but without touching. The larger outside leaves are removed, and any points of leaves that immediately overhang the flower. While the houses are kept without fire, in the first part of the winter, mats and straw are used to cover the cauliflower plants from frost. You may also plant them in hot-bed frames, and draw off the glass in mild days; covering them with mats, &c., as the weather becomes severe, and carefully removing the decayed leaves.

4. Cress, America. This is, in fact, a biennial variety of ours, erysimum præcor, and much resembles the common winter cress, E. barbarea, but its leaves have a pleasanter and milder while warm taste. It has latterly become a favorite sallad, and may be sown at two or three times during the summer, either broadcast, or in drills a foot asunder, on a light soil. When the outer leaves are gathered it should be so managed, that the new ones are regularly produced. Make a late sowing in August or September, on a sheltered border, and the plants will afford leaves until March.

5. Melons. The ingenious and scientific Mr. Knight has given some useful cautions to gardeners respecting preserving the leaves of melons. Many old horticulturalists have stripped the plant of them, as he contends, most injudiciously, the fineness of the fruit often being sacrificed thereby. He recommends the employing pegs more freely both to keep the plant, the roots particularly, in its place, and the leaves upright and steady. The Valentia and the Salonica melon are modern favorites. The former will keep many weeks, and has reached us in our late intercourse with the Peninsula. It is, generally speaking, to be managed like the common melon: the fruit gathered when nearly ripe, and suspended in a dry airy room, will keep till February. It is of a lozenge or long oval shape; the skin thin, and of a dark green color; the pulp whitish, firm, and juicy. The Salonica is nearly spherical, with a smooth face, and of a gold color; the pulp of the same general appearance as the Valentia, but more abundant in saccharine.

6. Mushrooms are thus raised by what is called Oldacre's method. For the compost he obtains fresh short dung, which has neither been exposed to wet nor fermentation; to which is added about a fifth part of sheep's droppings, or of the cleanings of a cow-house; the whole being well mixed and incorporated. The beds are now formed in coarse wooden boxes. (1.) A stratum of the prepared mixture, about three inches thick, is beaten together on the bottom with a flat wooden