writer of this paper enjoyed for many years), Leigh Hunt lived; and here Keats and Shelley visited him. Here it was that, on a bitter winter's night, with a fierce wind blowing-and the wind (says the writer of Rimini) loses nothing of its fierceness on Hampstead HeathShelley found a woman lying on the snow, on the top of the hill. Knocking at the first door he came to, he asked to have her taken in and cared for; or, at least, that she might be placed in an out-house, out of the inclement night. Being refused, he made an application at the second house, only to meet with the same result; whereupon he took her up, and carried her down the bleak path to the Lodge. His charity was not ill bestowed. The woman (who was on her way home to Hendon) had been all-day attending a criminal court in which a charge had been made against her son, and, though he had been acquitted, the suspense and agitation, together with fatigue, had affected her so seriously as to produce fits, from which the doctor who was called in asserted she could not have recoved but for the timely care and shelter she received.

In the pages of Leigh Hunt we find Shelley loitering in the fields, leaning, note-book in hand, upon the old grey gates that led through fields, or wood-paths out upon the breezy Heath. Sometimes we wonder if it were here that he heard the skylark singing, as he himself sang

"Like a poet hidden

In the light of thought, Singing hymns unbidden, "Till the world is wrought To sympathy with hopes and fears it heedeth not."

Sometimes we see him, on á summer's day, sauntering in Millfield Lane, with branches 66 green and shadows numberless"-a lane so sylvan and flowery, in blossom time, that, if my readers do not know it, they should take the earliest opportunity of becoming acquainted with it, if only for the sake of the memories that cling about it. It runs from the road between Hampstead and Highgate to the foot of Highgate hill, dividing the grounds of Lord Mansfield and Southampton, but affording pleasant glimpses of the former through breaks in the trees that overhang it.

It is a charmed spot for ordinary idlers; but Cost of all for those who bring with them memories of "Endymion," and Adonais," whose authors are for ever associated with it. Here Elia and Hazlett walked in the steps of the poets; and others have trodden it with silent

feet who shall be in the hereafter of their com

pany. Keats, who had many friends in the ghbourhood of Hampstead, was fond of reiding here; its localities were the scenes of his earliest abstractions, and suggested many of his est poems. Here he found

*All he had loved, and moulded into thought

From shape, and hue, and colour, and sweet sound."

In those bygone days, one might see, cast

on the grass, the slight, nervous, but well-made form of the young poet; his well defined and susceptibly expressive features, his large dark, earnest eyes, brown flowing hair, and small head-and, alas! faded hands; for, even then, he felt the flowers growing over him. It was amidst the sylvan shades and sunny slopes of Hampstead that " Endymion" was written, while living with his friend Charles Brown. Keats afterwards resided with Leigh Hunt, in the house already referred to in Heath Vale; and "Lamia," "Isabella," "The Eve of St. Agnes," and the noble fragment of " Hyperion" are said to have been written in a pleasant chamber of it which looks out upon the Upper Heath. Lord Byron also is said to have tenanted a house in the Vale, and probably about this time.

But while the whole of this bright galaxy were "gathered to the King of thoughts," with the exception of Leigh Hunt, who outlived her, the author of "De Montford" kept a little court for literary callers, and received, in her simple, old-fashioned home, the homage of the great in rank and intellect. It was on the occasion of a visit to Joanna Baillie that Mary Howitt, calling with her little son Charlton, had the pleasure of meeting Sir Walter Scott, whose admiration of the fair Saxon curls, and bright looks of the boy, must ever be associated with her remembrance of the kind-hearted author of the Waverley novels.

In 1851, at the ripe age of eighty-six, the little church-yard through which her feet had passed for so many years, received the remains of the Hampstead poetess, whose sister survived her some ten years. During this time Hampstead had still its literary settlers, who, if they did not lead the Muses "into fields full ankle-deep with lilies of the vale," conversed with them very sweetly. The Howitts-William and Marythough living at Highgate, were frequent visitors to Hampstead Woods and Heath. And, though the author of "Lydia," and other works which have made a permanent place for themselves in our literature, Camilla Toulmin (Mrs. Newton Crosland), did not reside at Hampstead when we first knew her (too long ago to tell contemporaries), her pretty home was on the high road to it.

The Lovells, also, whose plays have won as many tears and plaudits as "De Montford," are residents as I have said. The Lintons, too, she whose young pen wrote " Azoth, the Egyptian," and who, together, charmed with pen and pencil, lived here some time; so did also the sweetly serious writer of "John Halifax." At present the cottage in which she lived, at North-end, is tenanted by the clever author of "The Life of Wedgewood," Miss Meteyard (the "Silverpen" of "Douglas Jerrold's," and many other magazines). She, if she sees them, will remember pointing out many a green spot named in these pages.

"While through the west, where sank the crimson day, Meek twilight slowly sailed, and waved her banners grey,'

Nor must we forget, amongst names to be remembered in connection with our subject, that of Florence Nightingale, who came hither to recruit her failing health, after the effects of her almost superhuman efforts in the Crimea.

Royal visits to Hampstead in our own times are not unknown. King William the Fourth, who was chiefly remarkable for doing things that others did not, upon a summer's day (23rd of July, 1835), paid a Royal visit to Hampstead, and afforded his subjects in these northern parts a day of loyal effervescence, and high festival. In happier days, her Majesty Victoria used, it is said, to ride frequently to the grounds in the vicinity of Fitzroy Park (but then the Queen has the eye of an artist), for the sake of enjoying the lovely view, which is so much more beautiful and extensive than one would imagine; for still, as in the time of De Foe, one may distinguish, on a clear day, in the north-west, Hanslip steeple, which is within eight miles of Northampton, and see the Langden Hills, in Essex, to the east-objects which lie at least sixty-six miles apart. Then there is the prospect to London, and beyond to Banstead Downs, Shooter's Hill, and Red Hill; while, on the west, the view is uninterrupted to Windsor Castle. But to the north (says the topographer) one can see no further than Barnet, which is only six miles distant.

We are living in days of removation: old novels, old songs, old superstitions, and old fashions crop up from the past, and are read and sung and restored. "Clarissa" wakes the sympathy of a new generation of readers-the kettledrum of the ladies Betty or Dorethea, who bought the best green tea at eighteen shillings a-pound of the poet Gray's aunts, at the "Two Fans" on Ludgate Hill, or at some India-House at Exeter Change, is again in vogue, and gowns à la Watteau all the fashion. Who knows, therefore (hydropathy being on the increase) but that the fashion of the Hampstead Wells may return! The water at the Shepherd's Well is in excellent rusty condition; and in the following advertisement, which has recently appeared, we cannot help thinking that something of the kind is in anticipation. Let my readers judge for themselves:

AMPSTEAD-HEATH-HOUSE, with garden in

Hthe centre of Hampstead-heath. This lovely

spot, near to the Metropolis, can never be built over, protective rights being attached to this property, in common with that of other owners of land enfranchised from the Heath, which also affords an almost unlimited area for exercise and amusement, in the highest and healthiest suburb of London. The FREEHOLD or LONG LEASE of this castellated MANSION is now on SALE by Private Contract. It contains 28 bed-rooms, capable of being made into spacious dormitories, besides large public rooms and offices; gas and water laid on from the company's mains, hot baths, and every arrangement adapted for a public institution, sanatorium, large infirmary or school, or economical place of resort, like the establishment at Malvern or Buxton, there being chaly

beate springs on the grounds, the nature of which Hampstead was once well known. The principal walls are 2 feet thick, being built for an hotel for a public company and with the present fittings, cost nearly £15,000. To effect a speedy sale £5,500 will be taken for the freehold, or £3,500 for 99 years lease, subject to an annual ground-rent of £100. Apply to Messrs. Dowsett and Chattell, 29a, Lincoln'sInn-fields, where a plan and views maybe seen.

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In other ways, at all events, this advertisement is consolatory, For having thus traced the story of this loveliest of London suburbs, it is not toomuch to say that we hope its wide views may never be impeded, and that future generations may make verdant nooks, woody shades, its new-mown sunshine-holidays" amidst its fields of scented vernal grass, and the wild freshness of the wind-swept Heath! so shall Hampstead still, as in old Drayton's time, remain .. the noblest Hill."

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CHAP. VIII.-SMYRNA.

As the return journey from Constantinople, lying through the Archipelago, gave us opportunity of touching at Smyrna, an account of our visit to the latter forms a natural continuation of what has gone before. Smyrna is well worthy of prolonged notice on many accounts; and, first of these may be said to be its antiquity; next, is its peculiar distinctive character; and lastly, its commercial importance, as the centre of the Levant trade. Our voyage to Smyrna did not present any incident of such especial interest as to be worthy of note. Making a passage in a man of war, is always more or less monotonous, more so than any similar run in a packet would be. This is easily accounted for, by the fact that, in the former, the individuals who are compagnons de voyage, on this occasion have been so for months past, perhaps years; whilst each successive trip in a packet presents new faces, new phases of character, and representatives of different nationalities. "The watches were duly kept," the "rounds were regularly gone," and all that belonged to the monotonous inner life of a man of war went on with the usual horary regularity, as we lessened the distance (over two hundred miles), separating Constantinople from Smyrna. The general occupation when making a passage to a new place is to endeavour to learn, either from some more travelled messmate, or, failing this, from books, what the sights" are. The number of ports visited by a man of war, and the shortness of the stay in many of them, renders it necessary to know beforehand what objects of historical or other interest are within such distance as to be of easy access by short excursions. Sailors have a proverbial and practical knowledge of geography, but their principal historical knowledge is, I am inclined to think, derived from James's Naval History and such topographical notices as their visits to remarkable localities suggest attention to. I am afraid that very few of our number knew-before the date of the visit I am now describing that the name Smyrna is borne by the city in honour of a heroine or Amazon, to whose worship its inhabitants were devoted. Whether the heroine Smyrna was an historical reality we are not able to ascertain: I shrewdly suspect she had no more real existence than had "the great Goddess Diana of the Ephesians;" nay, more, that they were identical! This opinion gains ground when it is remembered that some historians ascribe the origin of the ancient City of Smyrna to the labours of the Ephesian colonists.

With the ancient City of Smyrna, however, this sketch will have very little to do. Suffice it for its purpose to remark, en passant, that it was one of the many claimants to the honour of being the birthplace of Homer; and boasted of possessing the grotto in which his famous epics were written. Irenæus ascribes the introduction of Christianity into this part of Asia chiefly to the exertions of Polycarp, who was the first Bishop of Smyrna, and was afterwards martyred there. It is with the modern City of Smyrna— or as the Tarks call it, Izmir-that the present narrative must concern itself. As soon as we had learned that Smyrna was our next destination, the city began to acquire considerable importance in our minds, and this arose, I must admit, not from its being the Smyrma of Homer, nor yet from its being ciated with the memory of the good "Bishop and martyr," but, from its being the well-known centre of eastern trade, and consequently the best mart in which to purchase such specimens of oriental manufacture and curiosities as we intended to take home.

asso

Arrived at Smyrna, our anticipations became greater than ever, owing to the imposing_effect of the bay. This, which affords a splendid anchorage to the ships of all nations, is very extensive, and stretches its fair proportions into the town in such manner as to have suggested the building of handsome quays abounding with solid and capacious store-houses. The presence of these gives the visitor a more favourable impression of the town when seen from the sea; and, even on the first landing, the expectation is greater than is at all borne out by subsequent experiences of narrow streets and miserable wooden-houses to be met with in the interior of the city. As is usual, when a ship arrives in a foreign port, we were soon surrounded by boats, and these, though Turkish in character, fell far short of the gilding and general ornamental style of the Constantinople caiques. "The correct thing," on landing in a foreign port, is to "leave a card on the Consul." This custom, however useful in the case of admirals and post-captains, is rarely productive of much benefit to any of the officers. Wardroom or gun-room officers will, however, according to my experience, make a much more useful acquaintance by calling on the contractor instead. This latter functionary is generally an English or native merchant, who, in addition to his regular mercantile occupation, supplies such men-of-war as arrive in port with fresh beef, vegetables, and any other stores they may stand in need of. His account is vouched for by the signature of two other local merchants, testifying

to the prices charged being those of the market; and the amount is paid by a bill on the British Government, drawn by the paymaster of the ship, and endorsed by the captain. Contracting for the supply of necessaries to English men-ofwar, though fairly conducted, is of considerable profit to the contractor; and he will generally be found civil and obliging to all the officers, and very willing to be of use to them by his counsel and advice as to the best stores, or traders to deal with, in the purchase of such specimens of the native trade or manufacture as they may desire to purchase as souvenirs of their visit. Repairing at once from the landing-place to the house of business of the contractor, we exchanged our English money for the current coin of the place; and then, under guidance of one of his subordinates, proceeded in the direction of the Turkey carpet and Persian rug-stores. On entering that indicated as the best of these shops, we found ourselves in a large square house, devoid alike of partitions or furniture. Piles of carpets and rugs were ranged along the walls, ample space being thus left in the centre for displaying the beauties and attractions of quality exhibited by those that were in turn unfolded for our inspection. The articles displayed in this store were all of excellent quality and well worth the prices we gave for them. The Persian rugs varied in price from two pounds upwards, a really valuable one, though of course not one of the highest price, being to be had for three or four pounds. The Turkey carpets were of all prices, and varied in proportion to texture, colouring, and size. Our purchases were confined principally, if not all together, to the Persian rugs, which not only wear for ever, but were no higher in price than their imitations would have been in England. | The purchase of these wares will naturally lead the visitor to the inspection of the great rendezvous of the caravans. Here, in an inclosed space. with a fountain in the centre, may be seen to arrive troops of camels bearing bales of rich merchandize from the interior. The fact that Mahomet was a camel-driver must, of necessity, invest with a momentary interest the first cameldriver that a European sees pursuing his calling in the east. The western traveller will, however, be doomed to disappointment, if he expects to find an appearance above the ordinary Arab in the man he now sees in charge of a long string of camels arriving to unload. Without any inclination to lecture upon natural history in general, or that of the camel in particular, I must say, that few more striking or essentially eastern sights can be fancied than that presented by a long string of camels, all laden with the products and manufactures of Persia, and all marching in single file along a sandy road. Nor is the picture less effective when the caravan arrives at a resting-place; or, as is the case at Smyrna, at its destination. The great hulking frames soon begin to sink down, one by one, to a kneeling position; this movement is due partly to instinct and partly to education. In he former case, the desire of ease suggests the

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kneeling position, as the burdens are thereby rested upon the ground on either side of the weary brute; in the latter, the fact that the kneeling posture renders the loading or unloading of the animal an easier task, causes the driver to suggest to the camel the adopting of that posture, conveying the hint to him by repeated blows upon the legs. Before leaving the camels to their rest, I may remark that, although they are in general animals of mild and docile disposition, and have always a very mild expression of countenance, instances, however, are not wanting, in which camels have been known to fight with each other with great fury; and I believe they would, when incensed, turn upon the driver were such rebellion safe. Anyone who has seen a camel "show his teeth" will not doubt of the assertions sometimes heard as to the bite they can occasionally give. I myself have heard the angry voice of an obstinate camel, and can well believe that, if he be as patient as the donkey, he is, in all probability, just as dogged and mulish. The old saying, that "It is the last straw that breaks the camel's back," is suggestive of an amount of patience that would induce this animal to endure to the death almost unrepiningly. Anyone who has stood to see a caravan loaded, however, will, I think, bear me out in saying that he has often heard a camel "cry out before he was hurt," and emit the sound that is supposed to be the symptom of being over-loaded, whilst the load, though bound on to the saddle on his back, still rests its weight on the ground on either side of its kneeling body. Some animals-obstinate and ill-tempered ones, I suppose-begin to murmur from the moment that the process of loading has commenced, and long ere any weight can have been felt. The trade of Smyrna with the interior is so extensive and varied, that caravans are constantly arriving or departing, some carry carpets and rugs in huge bales slung one on either side of the rude camel-saddle. Others carry packages, sacks, and even boxes. The principal articles thus conveyed to Smyrna, and thence exported to Europe, are cotton, guns, drugs, opium, oil, wax, goats, wool, skins, Persian rugs and carpets. Smyrna has also a large and exclusive export trade in figs; and as we saw these fruits undergoing the process of packing, it may not be out of place to say a few words thereof. The Smyrna market is the only one, that I am aware of, that is supplied with figs from the country so early as September. The packing of these in boxes gives considerable employment not only to men but to women also. The figs are brought in in camel loads, and deposited on the floors of the receiving stores. The women now take them in hand, and pull them, or, rather work them into shape, after which they are taken in baskets to the men. The men sit ready to receive these trays or baskets of figs, which they afterwards pack into "drums." The last-named proceeding is of such a nature as to effectually prevent anyone who has seen its process from enjoying the eating of dried figs for ever afterwards. The