236 LLANGOLLEN-LADY E. B. AND MISS P green boughs. Near Llangollen, where we dined, is the residence of two ladies, whose names are identified with the vale, Lady E. Butler and Miss Ponsonby; and after having informed ourselves of the etiquette. of the place, we dispatched a note requesting permission to see the grounds, announcing ourselves, in hopes of strengthening our claim, as American travellers. The ladies, however, were cruel, and answered, "it was not convenient to permit the place to be seen that day." The landlady, who had overheard some words of French spoken among us, observed that the ladies were fond of the French language, and that, if we had petitioned in French, we should have been admitted. The hint came too late. Taking a guide, however, we were conducted round the hermitage. The house is on a road; it is high and narrow, and behindhand in point of taste to the present style of elegant cottages. The garden is very small, and, from a height which overlooks it, we could see nothing to make us regret not having been admitted. A former tourist, (I believe Madame de Genlis), gives a charming description of it, but as to us, the grapes were sour. French readers may wish to learn something of these ladies. Their story is understood to be, that with birth, beauty, and fortune, they embraced, in the prime of their youths, half a century ago, the romantic idea of consecrating the remainder of their lives to pure friendship, far from the world, its vanities, its pleasures, and its pains; and, literally running away from their families in Ireland, with a faithful woman-servant, lately dead, they hid themselves in this then profound solitude, where they have lived ever since. The following inscription, I am informed, is placed in the garden: CHESTER-CHIRK CASTLE. 237 Consacrer dans l'obscurité Ses loisirs à l'étude, à l'amitié sa vie, Etre chéri vaut mieux qu'être vantê. The obscurity has long been dissipated; but the friendship, it is to be hoped, has survived. Llangollen is, like all the little old towns of this and all countries, a hideous object. July 29.-From Llangollen, by Wrexham and Chester, 46 miles. We visited this morning Chirk Castle. It is a quadrangular building, with battlements all around; a tower at each corner and one over the gateway. It stands on an ample knoll, carpetted to the very foot of the walls with the finest turf, but without a shrub or tree near it. Thus insulated, and the high walls pierced with a few diminutive windows, it looks great, but melancholy; and the court, inside surrounded with apartments on arches, does not diminish the first impression. You ascend, however, by a noble staircase to these apartments. They are found to be a suite of the finest rooms, lighted by windows, few in number, but very large, (the same which appear outside so small) looking over the finest view imaginable, and the cheerfullest. First, the velvety green all round; groves beyond, of large spreading trees, in a careless irregular line; beyond that again, and lower, a rich cultivated vale, and blue hills in the horizon,-the usual termination of Welsh landscapes. The castle has a gallery 100 feet long, with shining oak floors and wainscotting, state-beds and furniture of the 16th or 17th century, and a number of bad pictures. We walked in the groves, where roses and honey. suckles wasted their sweetness on the desert air. The proprietors of this paradise, three sisters, are 238 CHESTER PRISON. at this moment enjoying the heat and dust of London, and are not expected for a long time to come. At Chester we visited the court-house and prison of the county, a new building of classical appearance, the interior of which is on a plan of the celebrated philanthropist, (not of the sort of those who made the French revolution) Howard. This is its plan. The windows of the apartments of the keeper overlook the rooms or cells of the prisoners, which are disposed in a semicircle, opening two and two on a small court or garden, to which they have access all day, and are only shut up at night. A list, placed on the balcony before the windows of the keeper, informs you of the name of each prisoner, his crime, &c. The court forms also a semicircle; the judge and jury in the centre,the spectators on the stone amphitheatre all around. The prisoner is brought by a subterraneous passage to his place before the judges. The court is lighted by a sky-light, with ventilators to renew the air. The front of the building is adorn CHESTER-LIVERPOOL 239 ed by a Doric portico, the columns of which, three feet in diameter, and twenty high, are each formed of a single piece, and the whole building of the same stone, in large blocks, of a fine yellow colour, from a quarry near at hand. The funds have been drawn from the surplus produce of a canal in the neighbourhood beyond a certain per centage stipulated in the charter. What pleased us most was, to find that this excellent house had so few inhabitants; and the jailor, who appeared to be a respectable man, informed us further, that there had been only three executions in the county of Chester in nine years. The city of Chester has an antique physiognomy, not exactly of classical, but rather barbarous antiquity. The streets are in the houses ;that is to say, that the ground-floor is hollow, and open to the public,-a sort of covered gallery, dark, dirty, and crooked, and up and down, with unexpected steps, down which you run the risk of falling every moment. The origin of this singular style of architecture goes back to the times when the neighbouring Welsh made inroads on the frontier town of Chester, when the inhabitants defended themselves to advantage from their galleries. They are still of great use against an enemy, to whose attacks they are as much exposed to as ever, frequent rains. The city has a thick wall, on the top of which is a public walk, the country on one side, and the town on the other. The houses of the modern part of Chester have no galleries, and resemble those of the rest of England; that is to say, that they are very clean and convenjent. The country we saw to-day was cultivated like a garden. We finished our day's journey by cros 240 LIVERPOOL-MR ROSCOE. sing the river, or rather arm of the sea, at Liverpool, a long, inconvenient, and expensive ferry, (28s.) and we have been landed on the quay of this great town with our carriage without horses, without knowing where to find any, where to go, or to whom to apply. After some unsuccessful attempts to procure private lodgings, we were obliged to put up at the Liverpool Arms, a sort of Noah's ark, like all great inns in sea-port towns. August 1.-Mr G. of London, whom I had the pleasure of meeting sometimes at Sir Joseph Banks's, but on whose attentions I had no sort of claim, sent me, the day before our departure from London, letters to some of his friends at Oxford, Liverpool, and Edinburgh. I take pleasure in mentioning here this instance of kindness (for it surely deserves a higher name than politeness) to a mere stranger. One of these letters was for Mr Roscoe, well known as the historian of the Medici. I was surprised to find him at the head of one of the first banking-houses in Liverpool,-a great agriculturist, an architect,-and a lover of the fine arts;these are the points of resemblance with his hero. Mr Roscoe has a numerous family, seven sons, but none of them will be pope, the trade being now good for nothing. We breakfasted yesterday at his house in the country. His family is remarkable for cultivation of mind, and simplicity of manners. In stature and physiognomy, Mr R. bears some resemblance to Washington. There is a manifest antipathy between men of business and men of letters; yet they are surely not rivals, and I do not see why those who seek after fame should complain that they do not find fortune, or those whose object is wealth, that they do not get renown : |