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300 LOCH AWE-DALMALLY-HAY-MAKING.

lander came out of the wood to ask us for our money; without criminality, however,-offering very civilly to guide us to a fall of water within hearing. He led us by the best path to the best station from whence to view a most finished little cataract, made wholly by the hand of nature, except a rustic bridge over it.

About half way to Dalmally, a height brought us suddenly in full view of a beautiful lake (Loch Awe), on the opposite side of which, about two miles across, the wide front of an enormous mountain rose suddenly from the water, literally as black as ink, from the deep shade cast over it by the cap of clouds round its summit; a few rays of sun upon the island in the lake, and upon our side of the banks, rendered the contrast more striking. On a projecting point of low land, almost detached from the shore, stood an old ruined castle of the Earls of Breadalbane, of very picturesque effect. Also, on the other side, a good modern house, with lofty plantations,-much preferable to the feudal magnificence which the old castle brought to our minds.

A continuation of fine mountain scenery, with bold outlines, and all black with shade from the same cause, clouds round their summits, carried us to Dalmally, the northernmost point of our intended tour. The people were making hay, and the simplicity of their mode of transporting it attracted our attention. Two long pliable poles were fastened, like shafts, to a very small horse, and dragging ou the ground, slid with tolerable facility with their load on;-this may be considered as the first elements of carts. Turning to the right, we began to ascend through a succession of deep, green, naked, pastoral glens, from which the retrospect,

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SCENERY HOUSES-DRESS LANDSHEEP. 301

towards Dalmally in the distance, was very rich and beautiful. The glens themselves, for about ten miles, afforded nothing but a succession of steep hills, green almost to the summit, with innumerable cascades streaking their sides with foam. At last some traces of habitations animated this desert. We saw houses, the walls of which were of stones, put together without mortar,-thatched with rushes or coarse grass, the floor, earthblack peat and dirt in heaps all around, with their usual draining; women and children barefooted amidst all this, yet looking healthy and strong. The bodies of the men wrapped up in the national plaid, thighs and knees naked, and the antique-looking tartan hose; in their looks they recall the idea of Roman soldiers,-in habits that of American savages; the same proud indolence, the same carelessness,-the same superiority to want, the same courage,—the same hospitality, and unfortunately, I hear, the same liking for spirituous liquors. We saw cows and, patches of potatoes; peat is plenty. I am surprised not to have seen hogs among their other filth,-it would be more excusable. A drove of dwarf horses past us, no bigger than calves, but strong and active.

The Earl of Breadalbane's estate extends 25 miles west of Tyndrum, and farther east, mostly sheep pasture, and said to bring him L. 40,000 a-year. Some farms rent for L. 1200 a-year, and feed 7000 sheep; the number of acres not known. The surface is so cut up, and in parts inaccessible, that they do not survey the farms. The leases are generally for nineteen years. There is scarcely ever any necessity of providing food for the sheep in winter, as the snow never lies, and, when grass fails, the sheep feed on the heath or heather, as it is cal

302 led here, with which the rocks are covered; it is now in bloom, and all over light purple, exactly the colour of mezereon. Instead of wheaten bread, which is not good here, they have oat cakes, very thin, not raised, and, to appearance, made of bran instead of flour, yet tolerably good. The inn where we now are arrived for the night is on the highest inhabited spot in Scotland; it has also the reputa tion of being the worst and dirtiest inn :-we have, however, been put in possession of two good rooms, and neat-looking beds, and think it does not deserve its reputation. The English are spoiled children. By travelling so conveniently at home, they become unable to bear the smallest inconvenience abroad; at the same time that habit blunts the enjoyment of their habitual comforts. The Tay has its source near here, and flows east, while other waters in the neighbourhood run west. Notwithstanding the apparent poverty of the country, the propensity of the people to careless ease and drinking, and the ancient feudal habits, which sanctioned plunder, at least between neighbouring clans, it is very remarkable, that the inns of these mountains have hardly any fastening, and the heavier baggage of travellers remains on the carriage out of doors, all night, for there are of course no coach-houses; yet all the treasures contained in a trunk of clothes do not tempt people, who have scarce a shirt, to steal it! Surely poverty of this sort need not be pitied, and should much less be despised.

AN INN-HONESTY OF THE PEOPLE.

The fashion of planting pines in compact squares has reached these high regions. We are shocked to see black patches of young pines en herisson, deforming the sides of noble mountains. It is plain, however, that this country need not want

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