fight a ship, are alone required; a race of puny spirits will spring up, strengthened by fortune and consequently interest; and instead of tar and turpentine, we shall have Cologne water, lip salve and essences. Simplicity of habits and living, activity of mind and body are indispensible in the formation of serviceable naval officers. We cast anchor in the harbour of Plymouth, which appeared spacious, and in a port near to the dock called Hamoaze, lay several line of battle ships; at that period the British were employed in the important project of the break water, which has since been completed at a great expense. This was extending a pier from the shore, so as to deepen the channel by turning the course of the current and preventing the sea breaking with fury over a line of rocks and shallow water, and which was done by sinking heavy masses of stone, and erecting the pier with a strength sufficient to resist the inroads of the sea. We thanked the captain and his officers for their polite treatment, and he landed us at Plymouth dock, directing us to report ourselves to the agent for prisoners of war.

At length we were on land-not indeed on the soil, which we originally contemplated to tread-but in the enemies country, out of which we had to get with the best possible grace. We proceeded through a small town, filled with shops and naval officers; the houses low, neatly built, and having an air of comfort; we strolled into the principal stores, in which commodities were kept especially for sea-faring people; and the whole appearance of Plymouth dock, indicated that it existed only by the support of the navy. After a dinner which we had ordered in time, and which consisted of several delicacies, simply dressed, and a bottle of that general favourite, denominated Port wine, we set out for Mill Prison, which was in the neighbourhood. This was a large square building of grey stone, surrounded by a wall, and has an entrance or gateway, which was generally opened in the day. It was a depot for French prisoners of war, many of which we found were permitted to go on furlough, and who procured a living by making lace and other small articles of utility and curiosity; there were but few, however, admitted to this indulgence; and though the accounts of excessive cruelty to their prisoners have been highly coloured; there is reason to believe that serious cause of complaint existed. We passed by a grated window, behind which several French prisoners were seen, they were singing vociferously, and drowning care, by

that happy indifference so peculiar to their national character. Supposing us to be English, and unacquainted with their language, they abused us with all possible obloquy, and applied every vulgar epithet to us that their ingenuity could devise, and all with smiling countenance, expressive rather of compliment than denunciation. We paid a visit to the agent, who informed us, that having no orders, he wished to know nothing about us; and that his advice would be to proceed to Plymouth, and there await passports for London.Not a little pleased at this indifference, we ordered our baggage in a hackney coach, and drove off for Plymouth. We passed through a small town called Stone-House, and soon after entered the suburbs of that old maritime city, and alighted at the King's Arms. Plymouth has nothing to boast of, in point of situation or appearance; the streets are crooked and the houses ancient, some improvements however, which are making at the entrance of the town, consisting of a new theatre, hotel, &c. together with a few modern buildings, will contribute in time, to divest it of that dull and heavy appearance arising from narrow streets, and that never ending gothic style of architecture.

Our hotel was commodious, and every thing wore the appearance of comfort. It was here, for the first time, we had occasion to observe the difference between American and English taverns, and to draw conclusions not very favourable to our own country. Our host of the King's Arms, was called Windsor, he was the most attentive man in the world, always active, obliging, and the very quintessence of politeness; his habits of "booing and booing," had given him an apparent warp in the back; and he accustomed himself to return thanks so frequently, that he forgot to ascertain whether any order was given, or favour bestowed, which required acknowledgments. We experimented upon this force of habit, and interested pliancy of temper, and would occasionally ask, "what time of day is it, Mr. Windsor ?" to which he would reply, with a very low bow, "eight o'clock, sir, I'm very much obliged to you." A stranger could not fail to mark the difference, between the close attention of an English tavern-keeper and his family, and the distant civility and too careless indifference of an American landlord. Mr. Hawker was the American consul-his functions, however, were suspended, in consequence of the war he treated as with polite attention, and had our names marked down in the

reading-room, which gave us an agreeable privilege during our stay in town. The loyal inhabitants of Plymouth, had just illuminated with much splendour, for the joint victories of Vittoria and the Chesapeake, and the names of Wellington and Brock were entwined together in one wreath; thus bestowing upon us the highest honour they possibly could bestow, by comparing the accidental capture of one American frigate, to a splendid victory, which in effect, drove the French from the peninsula, and paved the way for those extraordinary events which have since occurred in Europe. One honest pains-taking haberdasher, filled to the very top with patriotism and poetry, had the following distich over his door,

"When Britons fight and Frenchmen fall,

"Oh, what delight it gives George Hall!"

There was something extremely ferocious in the principles of this non-combatant, who took such delight in a battle, while tranquilly employed behind his counter, selling tape, pins and buckram. The poetry was not bad, the idea only was barbarous.

While we were at Plymouth the loss of the Argus occurred.This brig had carried Mr. Crawford to France, and had made so many captures in the British Channel, that orders were transmitted by the admiralty for several vessels to go in pursuit of her. The Pelican brig, was fortunate enough to come up with, and engage her. It is more than possible that our officers and crew commenced the action with rather too much confidence; it was, however, sustained with great bravery, and I subsequently saw the Argus and Pelican laying together, and at once ascertained that there was a great disparity of force; indeed this was admitted, and the British, by common consent, said little about the victory. I met two of the lieutenants at Plymouth, after they had buried their brave and lamented captain, both of whom were wounded. The war in the peninsula, and in America, kept the good people of England constantly on the qui vive for news; and I discovered that the most trifling success, was magnified and so arranged as to produce a favourable effect. The stage horses and the body of the mail coach were decorated with laurels, and all the little scenes were played off to keep hope alive, and repress murmuring. A news-man with a package of papers under his arm, and laurels in his hat, came up to me, and after a blast of his horn, vociferated, "capture and

defeat of the whole American army," and requested me to buy a paper for sixpence: I felt sick at heart, but took the paper, and was much revived by the discovery, that it was only the capture of two generals, who had strayed near the lines in Canada, with a few men; and they had noticed the capture of the army and two generals, in order to give some weight and importance to the victory; “mere fetches," "a weak invention of the enemy." I saw at once into the whole design, and was prepared to give due credit in future to their bulletins. Our passports having arrived after the delay of a week, we took passage for London, as no permission could be had to embark for France, without application to the government. Having taken inside seats in the stage, we found it already crowded to suffocation, in a warm day in August, and the top was engaged by a party of sailors, who hailed every thing on the way. The stage coaches are conveniently arranged with glasses, and the horses apparently of the finest blood; the roads were in the best condition, and we passed by hills, dales and valleys with incredible rapidity. The face of the country is extremely beautiful; the view is not impeded by forests; hill rises over hill, and the eye discerns the misty top of each at one expanded glance; every spot is cultivated, and the white-washed cottage, the splendid country seat, the green hedges and fields of meadow grass, give to the prospect an air of striking variety and interest.

We alighted at Ashburton, and hardly were seated, when the room was filled by Americans. This was a depot for captains and other officers of privateers, they crowded around us with anxious looks to hear the news, each had some distinct question to ask about their homes, family and friends; but they all united in a desire to know particulars respecting the capture of the Chesapeake. It was an interesting sight to observe a number of fine looking men, prisoners of war on parole, each with a countenance beaming with interest and intelligence, listening with eager attention, to the detail of an event, which they had but imperfectly understood; they would know the most minute particulars, and each man shook his head with a smiling look of approbation, when declaring, "I knew the Chesapeake must have been taken by surprize, not by a fair fight, yard arm and yard arm, broadside and broadside. We have lost no honour," said these hardy citizens, as they left the room. We continued on our journey, after partaking of some refreshment; and

found an additional passenger on top, a young lady who had been on a visit to her friends. I was tempted by the beauty of the day, to experiment, by mounting on the top of the stage, and was well repaid by the gratification of seeing the country to the best advantage. This mode of conveyance is perfectly safe, as the roads are fine, the horses sure, and the drivers skilful, therefore, accidents seldom occur. We approached Exeter, once a seaport; but, at present, the navigation is so impeded, as not to permit vessels of heavy tonnage to come within five miles of the city. It is a large and apparently populous town, situated on the river Ex, over which a stone bridge is thrown. We rattled through the streets, which contained many stores, and had the appearance of bustle and business, and turned into the Cathedral yard, where we alighted at an excellent Inn. Our object was to visit this venerable pile, so celebrated for architecture, but particularly for an organ of extraordinary tone and sweetness, of which Dr. Jackson, the composer, had long been the organist, and from which he had obtained his celebrity. The Cathedral is near 850 years old; the saints, carved of free-stone, and placed in the niches on the outside, are mouldering by the effect of time and the air; the interior is lofty, and the highly finished painted windows, cast a solemn shade on the lengthened aisles. An old grey headed man, who seemed to have passed many years in company with knights, bishops and noblemen who lay there "quietly inurned," accompanied us through the Cathedral, and pointed out each tomb and sarcophagus, while he gave us a biographical sketch of their tenants. The organ, whose high and swelling tones reverberated through the fretted roof was singularly sweet and powerful, and served to heighten the interest of the scene. The heavy carved pulpit-the sacristy and pews-the canopy of the Bishopall exhibit the appearance of past ages. The imagination retrogrades for centuries, and contrasts the architecture, the habits and customs of antiquity, with the light and transitory work of modern times, together with a difference of sentiment, and a vast distinction of manners.

We reached Bristol the next day. This city was once considered second only to London, and carried on a profitable commerce with the United States, which has now, in part decayed; there are some woollen manufactories, but the principle article of trade is glass, and there are at least 18 glass houses of various descrip