means called on to repay it, and shall only be too glad, should circumstances lead me once more to his abode, if he will do me a similar kindness, inasmuch as he sold me an exquisite Buen Retiro cup-saucerless, it is true-which was worth as many pounds sterling as I paid francs.

Finding myself on board one of the Messageries steamers en route to Marseilles, I made the acquaintance of an agreeable little French doctor of medicine, whose taste, if not experience, was similar to my own; and having suggested a raid on shore at Messina in search of anything in the ceramic line which might turn up, I fortunately introduced him to the "baron," for such was the title our friend claimed. Whether he was a baron of the Roman empire, or a Sicilian noble, was of slight importance. He had pictures, such as they were,—Majolica, Grecian pottery, and some trifles in porcelain; all of which were at our service-for a consideration.

Having offered the usual courtesies which polite society dictates, I requested to be informed if he had any specimens of china to dispose of.

"Nothing but a few cups, signor," he replied; "here they are."

I forthwith selected four, three of little value. The fourth I at once knew to be a prize, it being a charming Buen Retiro cup, on which was an exquisitely painted battle-scene. Having demanded the price of the four-which being five francs each, I immediately paid without comment, -and then having looked round the rooms and thanked our host, we wished him good morning, as our vessel was about to sail. Ere leaving, however, I placed three of the cups carelessly in my coat-pockets, retaining the other carefully in my hand.. No sooner was the street-door closed on us, than the little doctor exclaimed,

66

Parbleu, mon ami, that appears to be a nice cup; moreover, you take particular care of it. Voulez-vous me le céder? I will give you ten francs for it."

"Not for a hundred," said I.

When on board I bade him carefully examine the painting with a magnifying glass; and then he broke forth into French expressions very difficult

to translate, but which in English might mean,

By jingo, it is a beauty! How tenderly you handled it!" adding, "Why, I had it in my hand first; but as you made no remark, I fancied it was no better than those you put like oranges in your pockets,"

Precisely, doctor," I replied; "practice and experience give knowledge. When next you visit the baron, look sharper."

I had a little box made when on board, wrapped up my cup in cotton, consoled the doctor by presenting him with one of the others, and took it to England; where, as at Paris, it was valued at from five to six pounds. Thus, my friends, be advised, and never allow a chance to escape you when bricà-brac hunting.

At Messina admirable figures in clay painted in the costumes of the peasantry may be obtained; they are correct and life-like, and can be purchased for a small outlay. The modern productions are certainly not equal to those of other days, still they are very interesting. I have recently seen two in the "bric-à-brac" shop of Mr. Acton, of

Richmond, belonging, I believe, to the Earl of Kilmorey. They are very good specimens, and it is possible that a rambler over Sicily, if not attacked by brigands, would not only be agreeable, considering the beauty of the country, but might also be of great advantage to a bric-à-brac hunter.

CHAPTER IV.

A

STAMBOUL.

ND now let us steam onwards to the city of

the Sultan.

Before the outbreak of the Crimean war, there was no lack of fine specimens of Oriental china in the bazaars at Constantinople; and here and there a good specimen of Sèvres, Dresden, Italian ware, and even specimens of Wedgwood and Worcester, might be secured. Meanwhile, among the multitude, military, naval, and civil, who then found themselves in that which at the period was an Eastern capital, but to-day has put on, forsooth, as far as the Frank portion is concerned, the very worst features of modern civilization, fast obliterating all the interest formerly derived from its Oriental character, there were naturally not only men with taste, and lovers of art, but also men with money without taste or