paratively short distance from the ground; the living mass in the swarming thoroughfare below, seem but an inch from the surface. What an immense expanse of house-tops, in every direction! The Thames, with its massive bridges, and gliding steamers, and river craft of every variety, is dimly visible in its sinuous course, almost from where it enters to where it leaves the city. To the west, just beyond a great bend in the river, the towers of Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall, and the new Houses of Parliament, (yet unfinished,) are conspicuous objects; beyond them, St. James' Park, Green Park, and Hyde Park, with its serpentine river, extending westward nearly in a straight line, and Regent's Park at the north-west, form a beautiful green edging to the picture. To the east, at some distance down the river, the Tower of London, easily distinguishable by the turrets at its four corners, rises high above all the neighboring buildings; beyond it, the immense docks, with their forests of masts, stretch away almost as far as the eye can reach. A thin canopy of smoke overhangs the scene, although it is one of the brightest of London days.

By the friendly aid of a young man, (the second courteous stranger that I had chanced to meet within an hour,) I soon obtained so clear an idea of the position of the more remarkable edifices, and the direction of the principal streets, that, from that time, with the free use of map, guide-book, and purse, I found my way with ease to every part of the vast city: and when, next day, I took possession for three weeks of private lodgings, not far from the Quadrant in Regent street, I felt almost as much at home in London, as if I had always lived there

CHAPTER VI.

LONDON.-A Walk in the Metropolis.-The Parks.-Westminster Abbey.-House of Commons.-House of Lords.-Westminster Hall.

LET us take a walk in London. From Charing Cross, a broad open area, the starting-point of crowds of omnibuses, we will proceed southward along Whitehall, a wide street parallel to the Thames, whose course is here directly north. Here, at our right, is a long line of government buildings. The first is the Admiralty, where the affairs of the British navy are managed. Next to it is a large stone building, called the Horse Guards, whence are issued the orders regulating the army. On each side of the iron gate in front, is a small guard-house, under whose arch stands, like a statue, a noble horse, magnificently caparisoned, with his rider in full armour, reminding you of a knight of the olden time. A passage beneath the building leads into St. James's Park, the east end of which affords an extensive parade ground. A more splendid military display than that made by the Horse Guards, when they parade there in full numbers, is rarely seen. I saw nothing of the kind on the continent to compare with it. The horses are magnificent, the men tall and well proportioned, and their accoutrements superb.

Beyond the Horse Guards are the Treasury buildings, the offices of the colonial and home departments, the privy council, &c., presenting to the main street a magnificent front with Corinthian columns, and abutting on Downing street, a name familiar to most readers from its association with government affairs.

On the opposite side of the street is Whitehall Palace. Here let us pause, for on a scaffold erected close to this edifice, Charles I. was beheaded, January 30, 1648. What a scene was presented on that day to the multitudes that thronged around!,

Further on is Westminster Abbey; but we must reserve that for a contemplative hour, when the first impression from the novelty and tumult of the great metropolis has had time to subside. We will now enter St. James's Park from the Horse Guards. These beautiful grounds cover an area of about 270 acres, shaded by noble trees. In the centre is a body of water, where are kept a great variety of aquatic birds, the property of the Ornithological Society of London. The water is surrounded by shrubbery, through which are numerous winding paths, affording a delightful promenade. In the early part of the day, you can enjoy this rus in urbe almost in solitude; towards evening, all the parks are the resort, in good weather, of a throng of well-dressed persons, of both sexes, presenting a very gay and animated scene.

About half way along, on the north side of the park, stands St. James's Palace, where the queen holds her court. It is a huge pile of plain red brick, looking vastly more like a hospital, (for which, indeed, it was originally designed,) than a royal palace. Buckingham Palace, the town residence of the Queen and Prince Albert, is at the west end of the Park. Though by no means a model of chaste architecture, its appearance is somewhat imposing, viewed from the park. The principal front, however, is to the west, looking toward the extensive private gardens, which interpose a barrier between the abode of royalty and the dwellings of humbler mortals. When the Queen holds a drawing-room, the carriages of the nobility, foreign

ambassadors, &c., as well as that of her Majesty, approach the palace of St. James from the west through the park. On these occasions there is a goodly show of splendid and splendidly dressed ladies, as well as of magnificent equipages. The footmen stuck up behind the carriages, with their showy liveries and cocked hats, present a most ludicrously striking likeness to our militia generals, and apparently surpass them in conscious worth.

From Buckingham Palace, a broad avenue, having Green Park on the right, and the palace gardens for some distance on the left, extends to Hyde Park Corner. This is the main entrance to Hyde Park from Piccadilly, the great road leading towards the heart of London from the south-west. The coup d'œil here is very imposing. On each side of the street is a Triumphal Arch, one forming the entrance to Green Park, the other to Hyde Park. At some distance within the latter is a colossal statue of Achilles, erected in honor of the Duke of Wellington, and cast from cannon taken at Waterloo, Salamanca, &c. In the midst of these trophies of a life which will have a sure place in history, I once saw the "iron Duke" himself taking an evening ride. Apsley House, his residence, adjoins the entrance to the park; and beyond it a series of splendid edifices extends along the north side of Piccadilly, with Green Park on the other side.

Hyde Park covers nearly 400 acres, and is the great resort for carriages and horsemen, as well as pedestrians. The Serpentine River flows through it, and on a fine summer afternoon it is really exhilarating to mingle with the crowd that throng the numerous avenues, delighted to exchange the dust and smoke of the populous city, for the refreshing coolness and beautiful scenery of these extensive grounds. When grand military reviews are held here, it is

estimated that 150,000 persons are sometimes present. Kensington gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the west; and at some distance to the north-east is Regent's Park, comprising 360 acres, beautifully laid out, and bordered on three sides by magnificent edifices.

I was particularly fortunate in the time of my visit to the great metropolis. It was the height of the London season, Parliament being in session, and the nobility in town; the pride and pomp of royalty and aristocracy were in full blow; the Queen was visible almost every fine afternoon in Hyde Park; the kings of Belgium and Hanover were visitants at her courts; fêtes and drawing-rooms were frequent, the latter yielding a rich harvest to the milliners; the debate in the House of Commons on the Irish Arms Bill, the great exciting topic of the day, called forth nightly the most distinguished speakers; the Duke of Wellington, Brougham, Macauley, the Countess of Blessington, in short, all the lions and lionesses, great and small, were congregated within the metropolis-some roaring (in the Parliament house) pretty savagely, others as sweet "an it were any nightingale."

These, however, were not to me the chief attractions. I wished to become familiar with those localities which were associated with my childish recollections of the " Spectator"-with London as it has existed for ages-with the haunts of Addison, Goldsmith, Dr. Johnson, &c. The singularly fine weather that prevailed, with scarcely any interruption, during my stay, was most favorable to my plans. It had rained with little cessation for nearly a month before, and I had the great and rare advantage of a long succession of bright sunny days, and as the twilight lasted till near ten at night, there was time for rides and walks on a very extensive scale. To appreciate the importance of