and noisy servants, puddles of dirty water, and heaps of filth. The house, however, we found tolerably comfortable, and we therefore determined to remain until to-morrow, when I hope to get settled at permanent lodgings for some weeks. Here, then, thought I, as I threw myself on a sofa, in an upper room, here I am in this great London, the object of so much desire, and of so many dreams of pleasure, both by day and night. To have arrived here in good health, and without any accident, was a subject of heartfelt joy and religious gratitude. Though it was evening, I sallied forth with an English gentleman and his beautiful daughter, with whom I became acquainted in the coach, to see St. Paul's church, in the neighbourhood. We found

it, however, too dark and smoky, to discover any thing more than a vast and lofty pile; and a heavy shower of rain beginning to fall, we took shelter in our lodgings for the night.

LETTER XI.

London, June 5, 1828.

This morning, after breakfasting with my English friends at the Bull, I set off to procure lodgings. This I found no very easy matter, being wholly ignorant of the modus operandi of the process, not only as to the fee per week, the proper locality, but how or in what way I should get at them at all—and this, after making several inquiries of persons who I thought should have known. Not having any acquaintances within reach, I resolved to introduce myself to Mrs. M., an extensive dealer in objects of Natural History, who resides in the Strand,

R

and with whom I had done some business in that way by letter, when in America. She received my visit with great courtesy, and kindly sent with me her little nephew, to look out for the windows where "Lodgings to let" were likely to be seen. This, she said, was the only manner she was acquainted with, to obtain them. We walked but a little

way,

before we saw in the window of a genteel looking house, the desired notice. After thus easily discovering one place, I resolved to try further; but though we searched in every direction for some distance, we were unsuccessful; and I accordingly, in a kind of despair, engaged the place first noticed, and here I am now writing. When a person takes furnished lodgings, he is commonly provided with a chamber,

and a parlour or sitting room, where he takes his breakfast and tea, which are a separate chargedinner is to be procured at the hotels, chop-houses, inns, taverns, and eating-houses, which are to be found in almost every part of this vast metropolis. Being snugly and comfortably, though not elegantly located, in a central, called here a centrical part of the town, I sallied forth on a tour of general observation. The crowds in the streets were not so multitudinous as I expected. Along Fleet street, the Strand, and Cheapside, the foot passengers are about as great in number, as on the side pavements in our Market street, on market days. The carriages, carts, and other wheeled vehicles in the middle of the street, are far more numerous