while the Boulevards show the extent of the old town and the site of the ramparts, taken down, 1800. These offer the best promenades; there are others in Cours Bonaparte (near the arsenal), and Grand Cours. This last is part of a long route (running nearly north and south) which stretches from Porte d'Aix to the Prado, and includes Rue de Rome, Grand Chemin de Rome, Place Castelane, &c. It is now adorned by fountains, and Ramus's bronze statue of Bishop Belzunce, set up in 1853. Great improvements are making in Marseilles, by the authorities, under the direction of M. Mirès, the contractor, at an estimated cost of about 30,000,000 fr. Of this sum, 4,000,000 are devoted to rebuilding the cathedral; 16,000,000 to the new port of Arenc; 2,000,000 to sweetening the old harbour; 500,000 to transplanting the Lazaretto to Frioul. M. Mirès having acquired the site of the Lazaretto, and that of the ground near the Joliette, will indemnify himself by laying out new streets, &c., and has engaged to build a church free of expense. Most of the Places (or squares) and Promenades are ornamented with fountains, supplied by subterranean cuts from the Huveaume, &c., and the great canal from the Durance. That of Place St. Ferréol, was raised to the memory of those excellent persons who attended on their townsmen in the great plague. One, in Rue d'Aubagne, is actually dedicated to "Homer, by the descendants of the Phocæans;" another, stands in Place Royale, the largest square in the city. That in Place des Fainéants, is a black marble obelisk, 23 feet high, on four lions. The Fontaine de Puget, in Rue de Rome, is a little pyramid placed before the old house of this Marseillaise architect and painter, whose works once served to adorn his native city, but were swept away after the Revolution. He was known in England as the builder of Montague House, the old British Museum. A statue was erected to him in 1857. Place de Lenche was the site of Roman baths. The large Plaine St. Michel, or Champ de Mars, a Roman site, is now ornamented with a basin, in the midst of which an island darts up a jet of water 164 feet high. The large Corinthian triumphal arch, at the Porte d'Aix, was begun, 1823, in honour of the Duc d'Angoulême, but remained unfinished till the Revolution of July, when it was dedicated to the "military glory of France." M. Penchard is the architect. The figures of Courage, Resignation, Prudence, Foresight, are by David d'Angers. The Harbour, or Port, forms an oblong of about 3,080 feet by 980, or about 70 acres, and is extremely safe, though the mouth is narrow. It is generally crowded with the shipping, of which it will hold 1,200, with water deep enough for those of 600 tons. A great disadvantage is, that the ebb and flow of the tide being very small, the stench of the sewers opening into it is constantly felt; but it is proposed to remedy this by sluicing it with the surplus water brought down by the city aqueduct. It is lined with narrow quays, where all the costumes and languages of the Mediterranean may be seen and heard. On the south side, or Rive Neuve, or Commerce, are the mast-house, the douane and magazines, with a canal running round them, the place-auxhuiles (oil stores), ship yards, stores for soap, bones, &c. Along the opposite side, or Boutique, you see the Place du Cul de Boeuf, the Consigne or Board of Health, the fish market and café, the Hôtel de Ville, stamp office, bazaar, shops for ship-chandlery, &c. At the Consigne are pictures, &c., worth noticePuget's Plague of Milan (a bas-relief); Gerard's Plague at Marseilles: H. Vernet's Scene during the Cholera; and David's St. Roch praying for the Victims of the Plague. A wet dock, or Bassin de Carénage, lies just outside the harbour, on the south, close to Fort St. Nicholas, which guards this side of the narrow entrance; the opposite side being guarded by Fort St. Jean. The Hôtel de Ville, a small building, of no particular merit or character, has bas-reliefs on its front, with Puget's bust of Louis XIV., and a Latin inscription; on the staircase, a statue of Liberty, and some pictures in the hall. The ground floor was used for the Bourse or Exchange, now transferred to a separate timbered building, or rather to the open space in Place Royale, where the merchants prefer to meet, till the new one in the Cannebière is built. The Préfecture, in Place St. Ferréol, on one side of a wide court, has two façades, and is one of the largest public structures in the city. It was built by Roux, a rich banker of the last century, who died Marquis of Brue, after impoverishing his fortune by making war, on his own account, against England, because one of his ships had been insulted. On this occasion he issued a manifesto, beginning with "George Roux to George Roy," in the style of Ancient Pistol. Near the old prisons, is the Palais de Justice, with nothing to distinguish it. The new prisons, built 1823, are at Porte d'Aix. Among the market. places or Halles, are the vieille Poissonnerie, the halle Puget, and halle neuve (new), rebuilt 1801, on the site of an older one. A large Boucherie, or shambles, stands on the sea, between the anses (bays) de l'Ourse and de la Joliette-the latter, they say, named after Julius Cæsar-Julia statio. Here a new port has been made, inside a breakwater and two moles; but it is reported to be dan gerous with unfavourable winds. It is taken, as it Deaf and Dumb (sourds-muets); the former, a large were, out of the Mediterranean, and forms a rec-building in Avenu Bayle. The New Millitary Hostangle, equal in area to the old harbour, with which pital is in Quatre de la Plaine. it is joined by a canal, behind Fort St. Jean. The digue, or breakwater, is 1,334 yards long, The moles or jetties, which strike out to it perpendicularly, are 437 yards long, and 546 yards apart. The stone was quarried in the rocks near Nôtre Dame de la Garde. An Imperial Palace, among other projected works, is to be built here. Not far from this, at the entrance of the town, is Porte Joliette, one of the few pieces of antiquity here, but much decayed, and used as the bureau of the Octroi. Most of the churches are plain buildings. That of De la Major, or the Cathedral which stood near the Anse de l'Ourse, was the most ancient; it replaced a temple to the "great goddess Diana," whose worship the Greeks brought here, and was a tasteless mixture of various styles, with a front spoilt by the plasterers. It *vas pulled down, and the work of rebuilding it commenced on the same site, in 1853. St. Victor, now the oldest, is near Fort St. Nicholas and the Carénage Basin, and stands over the burial place of an early martyr, which became the site of a rich abbey, founded in the 5th cer*. It is Romanesque for the most part, and has crypts of the 11th cent. (one of which was re-opened 1857) with Pope Urban's two towers, built 1350; and an image of the Madonna, to which the people come to pray in long seasons of drought. St. Vincent de Paul is in the Allées des Capucins. Near the Cours Italien is Nôtre Dame du Mont, re-built 1822, except its old clock-tower. It contains pictures by Serre, with good carved work in the choir, &c. That on Mont Carmel, near the triumphal arch, has a good prospect. A new circular church stands close to the Flêche des Accoules, which overlooks the town. and is the tall Romanesque clock-tower of a large church pulled down at the Revolution. There is another at a little distance from it. The Chapelle du Chateau Babon belonged to a castle on the site of Fort St. Jean. A pretty chapel of the 17th cent., called the Madeleine, or Chartreux, outside the town, has a good nave, and light campanile towers. There are Protestant and Greek churches, the former in Rue de Grignon, near the Jews' Synagogue. Hótel Dieu, or Hôpital du St. Esprit, behind the townhall, was founded 1188, and is a large irregular mass in the heart of the old city, having beds for 560, and a chapel built, 1600. La Charité, near Place de l'Observ. ance, founded, 1640, for 850 old people and orphans, forms a court, in which stands an oval chapel, by Puget, with a dome. Among the other charitable institutions are the two hospices of St. Joseph and St. Lazare: the asylums for Aliénés (lunatics) and for the G Most of the learned societies are established in the old convent of the Bernardines, in Cours du Marché, (near the Champ de Mars), which has several long galleries in it, a tower and a cruciform church, crowned with a dome. Here are the Academy of sciences and belles lettres; a large pubilc Bibliothèque, or library, of 70,000 vols. and 1,300 MSS., in a room 130 feet long, open Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays; cabinets of Roman and Greek antiquities (busts, sarcophagi, &c.), and of medals and natural history, a Picture Gallery in the old chapel, of about 140 paintings of the French school (89 specimens, by Puget, Serre, and others), Italian and Flemish schools, (Ruben's Boar Hunt &c.); the college or high school; with schools of design and architecture, &c. A scnool of a Navigation is established in the Observatory, which has a fine prospect. The Jardin des Plantes, or botanic garden, in the Chartreux quarter, opened since 1810, contains many exotics, including an orangery. In Place Royale is the Grand Théâtre, with a portico of six columns, like the Odéon of Paris, built 1787. Théâtre Français, or Gymnase, stands near the Allées de Meilhan. There is a Concert-hall; another place of amusement is the Montagnes Russes. Baths, in the Prado, near the Cirque Olympique, and the Château des Fleurs. The Gendarmerie Barracks are near Places de la Porte d'Aix and du Terras. The Arsenal stands in Cours Napoleon, not far from his column and the road to Fort Nôtre Dame de la Garde, which occupies the most commanding point above the city, 545 feet high. It is so called from a pilgrim's chapel of the 13th cent., round which Francis I. built the fortress, and is still crowded with a multitude of curious votive gifts from sailors, &c. At the Fête Dieu, its image of the Bonne Mère is carried about in procession. The prospect here embraces a beautiful panorama of the city, the coast, the sea, and islands off the town. Fort St. Nicholas, lower down, opposite Fort St. Jean (the chapel of which belonged to the Knights of Malta), was built round an earlier tower by Louis XIV., and has been lately restored. The rocks in this neighbourhood are covered with restaurants and guinguettes, celebrated for their bouille-a-baisse, which is flavoured with saffron. The Tour Carrée (Square Tower) was raised by King Réné. About two miles west of the harbour is the Ile d'If, and the fort of Francis I., in which Mirabeau was confined. A little beyond it are two larger fortified islands, Pomègue and Ratonneau, joined by a causeway 980 feet long, making the quarantine port of Dieudonné (God-given), where 200 vessels may lie. Here Cæsar's fleet anchored when he took Marseilles; and, in the present day, when a foolish man forgets himself, they call him "Roi de Ratonneau" in allusion to the story of a poor lunatic soldier, who assumed the title of king, and turned the guns on his comrades, in 1765. For sanitary purposes, there are a Lazaretto, of 50 acres, between Points de la Joliette and St. Martin (to be transferred elsewhere), where infected persons are fumigated; and the Consigne, or quarantine office, in the harbour. A large Cemetery is laid out beyond the city, near the railway station. An abundant supply of water is now brought in by the great canal lately cut from the Durance, 25 miles off. It is the work of M. Montricher, and passes through several tunnels, and along the great aqueduct of Rochefavour (1,200 feet long), over the Arc, coming into the city at a point 400 feet above the sea. of the earth. It has a grotto much frequented, for the views about it. White, red, and Muscadel wines are produced in The language is a mixture of this corner of France. French and Provençal (or corrupt Latin), with a tincture of Greek and Celtic. Pytheas, an early navigator, who sailed to Britain and Iceland, and to the Baltic from this place, was a In inodern days it reckons Puget, the native of it. sculptor and painter, and Barbaroux, a member of the Convention. Conveyances.-By coach, daily, to Aix, Toulon, Nice, Draguignan, Martigues, Barjols, Brignolles Manosque, Briançon, &c., on the routes to all the chief towns. By steam, to every part of the Mediterranean (see Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide). The English naval steamers, with mails four times each month to Malta, for the Ionian Islands, and Alexandria, pas. sage in about 70 hours. Office in Rue Haxo, No. 9. The customs duties of this port rise to a fourth or fifth of all those collected in France. The imports include hides, tallow, dried fruits, sugar, coffee, olive oil, cotton, wool, lead, bones, &c., and among the pool, calling at Gibraltar, on the 17th-20th. Office, articles made or exported are, salt meat, salt fish, 12, Rue Jeune Anacharsis. fruit, almonds, wine, refined sugar, molasses, madder, oil, sulphur, soap, candles, chemicals, liqueurs, essences and perfumes, printed wollens and cottons, morrocco leather, tobacco, hats, glass, porcelain, china, coral ornaments, anchovies, &c. Steam engines are made by Taylor and Sons. Here the galleys of France were constructed before the formation of the port of Toulon. The Anglo-Italian Company's Screw Steamers join from Italy) on the 15th-17th, and proceed to Liver The French mail Steamers of the Messageries Impériales, start on the Italian Line (by Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina,) to Malta, weekly, taking six days, and corresponding with the Levant packets from Malta, on the Levant Line (by Malta, Syra, Smyrna,) to Constantinople, weekly, in 11 days, corresponding at Syra with the Italian packets; on the Greek Line (by Malta, Syra, Athens, Nauplia, &c.), weekly, in In the suburbs are the villages of St. Genie, 12 days; on the Egyptian Line (by Malta) to AlexanCapelette, St. Pierre, La Madeleine, Chartreux, St. dria, twice a month, in 8 days; on the Syrian Line, Charles, Barthélemi, St. Just Passet, Belle de Mai, every 20 days, in connection with the Constantinople Bon Secours, Canet, and others; some of them seated and Egyptian Lines, taking the round of Rhodes, on the little rivulets Huveaume, Jarres, Plombières, Alexandretta, Latakia, Tripoli, Beyrout, and Jaffa, and Ayglades. The last has an old Castle on it; between Smyrna and Alexandria (12 days). On the and on the Huveaume is the aqueduct of Ville-à-la-return there is 5 days' quarantine at Smyrna. Pomme, with Château Boully, a fine seat near the The United French, Sardinian, and Neapolitan sea, built by a Marseilles banker. The Valley of the Line starts every other afternoon; they are dear, Gimenos is remarkable for rugged grandeur. St. Pons, crowded with goods, and uncivil, the Neapolitan boats Masargues, and Chaine de l'Etoile are worth visiting. being rather the best managed. They carry English engineers, and take 18 hours to Genoa, 10 to Leghorn, 12 to Civita Vecchia (for Rome), 14 to Naples. Enquire if there is a quarantine anywhere, or you may be kept on board for 6 days. Further off, is the Madrague de l'Estagne, where the large tunny fish is caught. Near it, a part of a Roman aqueduct may be seen, also the Bouido which spouts up after rain, and the Maoupasset, a seat of King Rene's, where they show some of his paintings. Wild fowl swarm in the Etang (lake) de Martigue; and at Christmas, crowds of sportsmen go out to shoot wild ducks. Puy de Mimet (12 kil. north-east of the city), is noticeable for the experiments made there by Bason Zach, the astronomer, for measuring the density French mail steamers to Bastia (26 hours), and Ajaccio (22 hours), weekly, Steamers also to Cette (S hours), twice a week; to Nice (12 hours), weekly: to Algiers, every 5 or 6 days; to Oran, twice a month; to Cadiz (by Barcelona, Valentia, Alicante, Cartha gena, Almeria, Malaga, Algesiras) in 8 days, about |