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"On your return to the city, you , ill find good dinners at the Restaurants, after which amusement of every description wil be open, to drive away the ennui of the next three or four hours. The Theatres, at some of which, however, the language and representations are not fit for ladies, or the Circus, or one of the Operas, or some other diverting spectacles of the kind are always open; but should none of these gay sights attract you, you will be much amused by walking along the Boulevards, taking your coffee, or an ice, on the outside of one of the Cafés, and watching the curious stream of human beings that rolls by you.
"Should your stay be prolonged for Two days, you would do well to take a run down and see the château and gardens of Versailles. This is an occupation that will fill up the whole day. In the evening you will again be at liberty to select which of the many places of amusement you may like best. There are many gardens open after sunset, brilliantly lighted up with variegated lamps, where dancing and other gay an:usements take place; such as the Jardin Mabille, the Château des Fleurs, the Closerie de Lilacs, &c. As, however, these spots are much frequented by the Demi Monde, they should be avoided by ladies and children. There are also in the Champs Elysées, cafés chantants, where you may hear pretty good singing and sip your coffee, or have an ice, at your leisure. The Jardins alluded to above are not visited by the élite of Parisian society, but they give to a foreigner a good insight into the habits and amusements of the French people.
“ Should your stay extend over Three days, a visit to Père la Chaise, the Jardin der Plantes, the Gobelins' Manufactory (should it be on a Wednesday or Saturday), the Pantheon and the Hotel de Cluny is recommended. An examination of these places will fully occupy your day until five or six o'clock, when the evening attractions of Paris are again open to your choice.
Should your visit extend over Four days, you will find the Château and Park of St Cloud, a short distance out of town, and the Museums of the porcelain manufactory at Sèvres, very interesting. You may go to St. Cloud by the railway to Auteuil, where an omnibus will be waiting to take you for 2 sous, by a pleasant drive through the Bois de Boulogne, the village, and across the Seine, to the park gates. From Sèvres to St. Cloud is only a short walk through the park. If you are a good walker, you should visit the Terrace of Meudon, about a mile and a half beyond Sèvres, on the hill. This spot commands a very fine view of Paris and the river. Cabs may be obtained at St. Cloud to take you to Sèvres and Meudon, should you prefer to ride. · "Should it be your intention to remain Five days, on your return from Meudon, or Sèvres, you should, immediately on your arrival in Paris, apply for permission to visit the Tuileries, and the interior of the Hôtel de Ville. If your stay be over a Sunday, you might witness mass at any of the principal churches. The service commences exactly at 10 o'clock.
"Should your visit extend over Six days, the Hôtel de Cluny, the Musée des Beaux Arts, and the Musée d'Artillerie should be visited ; also St. Germain and the Abbey of St Denis, which, though on different lines of railway, may easily be accomplished in a day. St. Denis should be seen first.
“Should you remain Seven days, a trip to Fontainebleau will be highly interesting ; and should you have more days than these, you would do wisely to repeat your visits to the Louvre, the Luxembourg, the Hôtel des Invalides, doc.” (see Bradshaw's Illustrated Guide to Paris).
In the short description of Paris which follows, the subjects run alphabetically, as most con
venient on the whole for reference. Streets will be found under the proper names, as " Rivoli (Rue de) ” for “ Rue de Rivoli,” or Rivoli Street. When the stranger comes upon a large building, church, &c., he has only to look down this list for the street it is in, and he will find it described there, or else described under its own head. Places in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris must be looked for in the General Index to the Hand
Book. For further details, see Bradshaw's Illustrated Guide to Paris. N.B.-Those objects most worthy of notice are in thick type. Though special days for
visiting are sometimes mentioned, yet nearly all are accessible to strangers upon the pro
duction of a passport. ACADEMIE.-See Palais de l'Institut.
Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile, at the end of Avenue de Neuilly, and so called because seven or eight roads spread from it like a star, is an enormous triumphal arch, begun 1806, and finished 1836. It is 152 feet high, 137 broad, and 68 thick ; the centre arch, 90 feet high, by 45 wide ; and is covered with groups and bas-reliefs of the events of the Revolution and the Empire, from 1792 to the peace of 1815. By this arch, the Grande Armée entered Paris after the peace of Tilsit; and Louis Napoleon, on his return from the provinces, 1852. A fine view from the top. Outside of it, on the Neuilly road, is the beautiful Chapel of St. Ferdinand, built 1842-43, on the spot where the Duc d'Orleans was killed by his horses taking fright. One fine marble group was designed by his sister, Maria of Würtemburg, who sculptured the well-known Joan of Arc. Open by passport, from one to four, except Wednesday.
Bac (Rue de), contains the Musée d'Artillerie, and (No. 120) St. François Xavier's church. Near it is St. Thomas d'Aquin.
Bains de Ligny. The largest swimming bath in Paris, and quite a sight on days of tropi cal heat, frequent in Paris, in July. Among other features, des hommes serieux, or, grave and potent seniors of 45. are seen deliberately soaping and washing their feet on the steps of the baths, which are sheeted over with human forms. CAUTION.- Do not leave gold or your watch in the Cabinets unless the door be well fastened. Entrance, 75 centimes ; linge (i.e. drawers (caleçons] and towel), 25 centimes.
Bibliotheques.-BIBLIOTHEQUE DE L'ARSENAL, Rue de Sully, where cannons were cast till the time of Louis XIV., is now a library of 200,000 volumes. Open daily, 10 to 3.
BIBLIOTHEQUE $T. GENEVIEVE, near that church, in the old abbey buildings (14th to 16th cents.), contains 200,000 vols. and 3,000 MSS., with portraits of sovereigns from Philippe le Hardi to Louis XV.
Bibliotheque Imperiale, or Imperial Library, Rue Richelieu, No.58, was once Cardinal Mazarin's hôtel, and is now a large pile, 540 feet by 180. It contains 1,400,000 printed vols.; 125,000 MS. genealogies (30,000 being French); 150,000 medals; gems; 9,600 vols. of engravings, from the fifteenth century ; 90,000 portraits ; 300,000 maps ; 150 vols. of French history; 500 vols, of plans, views, &c.; besides several marbles. In the ground floor are Voltaire's bust, a silver missal, the first psalter printed with a date (1459), models, &c. Among the MSS. are those of Galileo, St. Louis' prayer book, Fénelon's Telemachus, and wwwtograph letters from Henry IV, downwards. Some of the missals are as old as the 5th
and 6th cents. Cardinal Mazarin's painted gallery is 140 feet long. Readers bring their own pens as well as paper. Visitors, Tuesday and Friday, 10 to 3. A fountain, by Visconti, stands opposite, in Place Louvois, near which the Duc de Berri was assasinated, 1820.
BICETRE.-See Index to the Hand Book.
Bourse, or Exchange, near the Rue Vivienne, was built by Brongniart and Labarre, 1808-26, is 212 feet by 126, with 66 Corinthian pillars round it, and a metal roof. The large Doric hall is 116 feet by 76, and has a painted ceiling and a marble pavement, at the east end of which is the parquet, a space railed off for stock-brokers. Galignani, Rue de Rivoli.
Catacombs-are in the gypsum under the south side of Paris, formerly excavated for houses, and after 1786, used as a receptacle for bones from the crowded graveyards, but now stopped up. They extend over about 200 acres, and are reckoned to contain 3,000,000 skeletons or skulls, piled in order along the galleries. One entrance is in a garden, near Barrière d'Enfer, but it is not opened without a special order. Some made logan stones are seen below, with a collection of remarkable heads, and the well-chosen inscription, “ Memento, quia pulvis es” (Remember, for thou too art dust!). The smell is close and disagreeable. A part of the quarries under Rue du Marché aux Chevaux is turned into cellars for Dumesnil's brewery. It is difficult now to obtain permission to visit the Catacombs.
Cathedral.-See Notre Dame.
Cemetery of Pere la Chaise, a pleasant spot, outside the Barrière d'Aunay, so called from the confessor of Louis XIV., Father Lachaise, the superior of the Jesuits, who had a seat here. It was turned into a burial ground, 1804; covers 100 acres, and is prettily laid but with groups of trees, oypresses, &c. The most remarkable monuments in Paris are in this o:metery, which is also the largest and most frequented. A guide will point out the best. There are about 15,000 tombs, among which are those of Abélard and Heloise, a beautiful Gothic canopy ; C. Perier, the minister ; Labedoyère, who led the revolt from the Bourbons, in the Hundred Days : Volney ; Abbé Sicard ; Beaumarchais ; Marshals Davoust, Lefèbre, Ney ("Sta viator, heroen calcas '), Junot, Masséna, Suchet; Lavalette, with a carving of his escape ; General Foy, with sculptures by David; B. Constant; Molière ; Lafontaine ; Madame de Geolis ; Laplace ; Aguado, the banker ; Talma; Sir S. Smith, who died 1826 ; Prince Demidoff, &c. The Doric Chapel is 56 feet by 28, and commands a fine view over Paris and the neighbouring country. Here the Russians bivouacked, 1814.
CHAISE (Rue de la) has the Hospice des Ménages.
Champ de Mars (Field of Mars), a vast space between Ecole Militaire, and Pont de Jéna, 2,700 feet by 1,320, planted with trees, and bordered by sloping banks and ditches, now used for reviews, races, &c. The slopes were made in eight days, by the voluntary labour of all ranks of the people, in 1790, when Louis XVI. swore at the Autel de la Patrie (erected here 14th July) to maintain the new constitution. Other signal events have marked it since that disastrous period.
Champs Elysees, or “Elysian Fields," a promenade, with rows of trees, planted 1616, by Marie de Medicis, and replanted, 1764. The Allies encamped here in 1814-15, and here the fêtes are held. It includes the French Palais d'Industrie; the Chapel Marboeuf (Protestant); and a Circus or Cirque (1 to 2 francs). The first-mentioned is a splendid stone
8.-To Sceaux, Boulevard d'Enfer.
About 66lbs. of baggage is allowed on the main lines. A Ceinture Railway to girdle Paris, is already completed between the Strasbourg, Northern, and Rouen lines. A horse railway, 2} miles long, for large omnibuses, carrying goods for the most part, was opened November, 1853, from Place de la Concorde to St. Cloud.
RICHELIEU (Rue) has, at No. 58, the Bibliothèque Impérialc and a public fountain, called Fountaine de Molière, opposite, near Molière's house, No. 34.
Rivoli (Rue de) contains the Tuileries, Place du Carousel, Louvre, Hôtel des Finances, Tour de St. Jacques. This fine street now extends nearly two miles, passing the Hôtel de Ville, and is lined with stone Houses and shops, 6 and 7 stories high. From the Hôtel de Ville, a similar street is projected to the Strasbourg station. ROYALE (Rue) has the Madeleine in it. SAINTE CHAPELLE. See Palais de Justice.
SEVRES (Rue de) contains the Institution Impériale des Jeunes Aveugles, and the Hospice des Femmes Incurables.
Severin (Rue St.) has, at No. 3, St. Severin's church,
Temple, now a convent, in Rue du Temple, belonged to the Knights Templars whom Philippe de Bel suppressed, 1312 (when Molay, the grand-master, and the grand prior, Guy, were burnt before Nôtre Dame), and was a refuge for debtors, &c. What remains of it is the Prior's House, built 1566, by Jacques de Souvre, grand prior of the Knights of St. John, but since much altered. The tower where Louis XVI. was imprisoned before his execution, (21st January, 1793), and in which Sir S. Smith, Captain Wright, Pichegru, and Toussaint l'Ouverture were confined, was taken down, 1805 ; but a model is kept. The rooms also in which the king was first confined, after 10th August, 1792, remain in their old state, covered with gilt leather and carvings. A market for old clothes, furniture, &c., is held here.
TEMPLE (Rue du) has the Temple, and St. Elizabeth's church (opposite No. 94).
Theatres, etc.- French Opera House, Rue Lepelletier, near the Boulevard des Italiens, has a front 64 feet high, with a double arcade, and an interior 66 feet wide; a stage, 42 feet by 82; a fine saloon, 186 feet long. Places for 2,000. In French Theatres, loges are the boxes, baignoires are boxes near the pit, parterre is the pit (used only by men.) Most of them open at six.
ITALIAN OPERA, Rue Marsollier, is 154 feet by 110, with a double arcaded front.
Theatre Francais. Rue Richelieu, corner of Palais Royal, was built, 1787, by Philippe Egalité, and has a Doric front 110 feet high. Places for 1,500 In the hall and saloon are Houdon's statue of Voltaire, busts, and memorials of Molière, &c. Mesdemoiselles Mars and Rachel appeared here. Prices 1 to 8 fr.-At the north-west corner of Place Palais Royal is he small Théâtre du Palais Royal, built 1831
THEATRE DU GYMNASE DRAMATIQUE, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, has a six-column front. Scribe's plays were brought out here.
THEATRE IMPERIAL DE L'ODEON, PLACE DE L'ODEON rebuilt 1820, after a fire, has & ortico of eight pillars, and stands 161 feet by 112, and 64 high, with places for 1,600. THEATRE LYRIQUE, Boulevard du Temple was built by Alexandre Dumas (1847), and is