once

week, in French and Spanish boats. Offices, as old as the 10th cent.; was taken by Charles V.. 25, Rue de Breteuil; and 29, Rue Mont Grand.

ROUTE 20—Continued.

From Marseilles, on the rail, to Toulon, the stations

are

La Pomme: St. Marcel; St. Menet: La Penne: Camp Major; as far as

Aubagne (17 kil.), a town of 6,200 souls, on a hill by the Huveaume, with a ruined château and a Roman bath in the neighbourhood. Its old name, Albania, or Oubagno, was derived from the bare white rocks around. The Abbé Barthelemy, who wrote the "Travels of the Jeune Anacharsis," giving an account of ancient manners and customs, was a native.

[At 5 kil. to the north-west, is the picturesque village of Allauch, with remains of towers, walls, &c., belonging to a much older place. At 7 kil. to the south-south-west, is Cassis, on the coast the Carsicis Portus of Antonine's Itinerary, with a good port. It has a trade in coral, fruit, and Muscatel wine. All the coast from Marseille, to Toulon is a succession of hilly ranges, naked and sterile, but striking, especially from the Ciotat (the Greek Cithavistes) lies to the east; and beyond it is the site of Tarentum. At 8 kil. to the north-north east, is Roquevaire, on the Huveaume].

sea.

in 1526; fortified in the 17th cent., by Vauban: and besieged by Prince Eugene, and Sir Cloudesley Shovel, 1707. It was blockaded by the English fleet, 1793, under Lord Hood, when 42 ships were burnt or taken, and 15,000 royalists received on board, as the republicans entered it, after a three months' siege, their success being due to the skill of Bonaparte, then a young officer of artillery. It is strongly defended by batteries on all the commanding points, as Fort la Malgue (a fine view), Faron, Aiguillette, Ballaguier, Malbosquet, Napoléon, &c.

Rue de la Fayette is the best street, the rest being mostly narrow and crooked; hotels and shops in Place au Foin, Rue Royale. It has a Hôtel de Ville on the quai, in front of which is Daumas's colossal Genius of Navigation, and two carved caryatides, by Puget, whose house is behind it, in Rue de Rome. Some of Puget's work is seen in the cathedral of Eglise. Majeur. The other churches are Nôtre Dame and St. Louis. The maritime Préfecture stands on Place de Armes, a large space, ornamented with fountains and sycamores. There are also in the town a civil hospital, hospice de la charité, gas works; a college, and bibliothèque of 10,000 vols.; botanic garden, salle de spectacle, &c.

The Port includes, 1, the small Port Marchand: 2, Port de Commerce, or Ancienne Darse, constructed Cujes (12 kil.) has an old country seat, in a by Henry IV., with its long wide quai; and 3, Louis fertile spot.

Le Beausset (14 kil.), has a trade in oil and wine. Here Portalis, the jurisconsult, was born. Ollioules (9 kil.), near a wild, deep pass, called the Vaux d'Ollioules (olla, a plate), with a ruined castle over it. A good trade in immortelles, for mourners, is carried on here. At 7 kil. from this is

TOULON (40 miles from Marseilles). HOTEL.-Grand Hotel de la Croix de Malte.Good and comfortable house, near the port; English newspapers. M. Vacilachi speaks English. Restaurants.-Café de Paris, Place du Champ de Gibert and Moulard, the same place.

XIV.'s Nouvelle Darse, or Naval Dock-yard and Arsenal, to the north-west, which covers above 55 acres, and is joined to the old Darse by a turn-bridge, while the mouth of both is shut up at night, by enormous chains. The Arsenal may be visited (by order) from 11 to 12. At the entrance is an ornamental gate, by Lange, 1738.

Since the great fire of 1845, which destroyed £800,000 worth of property, there are five building slips, on which 15 ships may be constructed at once, and two of which, covered over, are 300 feet by 65. Here, among the usual contents of a naval dock-yard, are workshops, 90 blacksmiths' forges, steam saw mills, feet by 56, and three stories high; cannon foundry ; a masthouse, rope and sail lofts; a general magazine, 328 Cafés.-De la Marine, Militaire, and De Paris, derie, or ropehouse, on 68 arches, about 1,100 feet long, park of artillery; a salle d'armes, or armoury; a corPlace de Champ de Bataille; De l'Europe.

Bataille.
Daumans, ditto.

Population, 82,705.

The chief naval station in the Mediterranean, and a maritime sous-préfecture (in department Var), on a fine circular harbour or bay (called Telo Martius, by the Romans), with a roadstead outside, and a picturesque range of naked hills behind. It is

begun by Vauban, and finished by Riquet, the planner of the Languedoc canal; a naval artillery school, founded 1822, with laboratories, models, library, &c.; a surveyor's office, to which a school of design and library are attached; and a naval Museum, arranged in three great classes, viz., models of ships, machines, and general objects.

greatly by the colonization of Algeria, the expedition for reducing which sailed hence in May, 1830, under the command of Admiral Duperre and General Bour-Provence, in 973. It stood on a point of difficult access, where traces of it may yet be seen.

LE LUC (16 kil.), near a factory of Bohemia crystal

Omnibuses to Ollioules, La Vallette, Lagardi, &c. glass. It is noted for its chesnuts.

Steamers to La Seyne, across the harbour, hourly; to Algiers, 8th and 28th of the month, in 32 hours (120 leagues).

The road here turns, via Cuers (23 kil.), Le Luc (30 kil.), &c., to Frejus, Cannes, and Nice, described in

the most southerly but one of several good, open | Invalides, formerly king of Westphalia; and his bays on the west side of Corsica, such as St. Florent or Fiorenzo, Calvi, Porte, Sagone, Valinco, &c.

AJACCIO.

Pronounced Ayacheeo, the capital of Corsica (at the head of the gulf), under a rugged line of bills, which shelter it from the east and north, is the seat of the préfect, bishop, &c., and is further distinguished as the place where Napoleon Bonaparte was born, 15th August, 1769, acording to the register preserved here. His marble statue is in the Place facing the quay.

HOTELS.-Hotel de France, all newly fitted up and very comfortable, and charges very moderateabout 7 to 8 francs a day, with wine; fine new hotel just about finished, built expressly for the great increase of English visitors in winter. Hotel de l'Europe, a Corsican hotel, cheap, but not quite suited for English. Hotel de Londres, a fair Italian hotel. Pop. 15,000.

It was called Urcinium by the Romans, being noted

three sisters Eliza (Duchess of Luccal. Caroline (who married Murat, king of Naples,) and Pauline (Princess Borghese). Joseph, king of Spain, was born at Cortes (see below). His father, Carlo and mother. Letizia

(1750), were also natives of this town. She (who died Cardinal Fesch. Another native was Pozzo di Borgo, 1832) is now buried in the Cathedral, with her brother, the Russian statesman (born at Alata, close by); his and Napoleon's family belonged to the two opposite parties, which divided the island.

In the neighbourhood stands a neglected country, seat of the Bonapartes, the garden of which contains a granite rock, called Napoleon's Grotto-his favourite retreat. "When the family property was divided, his share was an olive yard" (Forester). There are also the oriental tombs of a colony of Mainote Greeks, settled here by the Genoere, 1676. The climate is very mild, so much so, that the oleander, cactus, and lemon tree are seen growing.

Trade in oil, wine, coral, &c. Coaches to Corte, Bastia, Sartine, and Bonifacio.

for the making of earthen wine-bottles. Before 1345 it stood lower down, in a marshy site, where The only good road is that to Bastia, about 152 kil. remains of buildings may be still seen. The citadel was built in 1554, by Marshal de Thermes. Except another round the island; both travelled by diligences. or 94 miles long, made by the French soldiers, with two good streets, the rest are narrow and dirty. There are no inns, except in two or three towns on Among the public buildings are the Préfecture, the the coast; but decent lodgings may be found at the cathedral, with a tower and dome, a college, founded convents, while the villagers are hospitable. In the by Cardinal Fesch (a large building), Priests' Semi-interior, till lately, brigandage was not uncommon, nary, library of 25,000 vols., and a collection of pictures (presented by King Joseph); at the Hot-l de Ville, a navigation school, salle de spectacle, botanic garden, &c. There is a fine promenade by the seaside.

Napoleon's House, which belongs to his mother's family, the Ramolini, and has been bought by Louis Napoleon, is a plain, three-st rie 1, deserted building, though one of the best in the town, in a little court in Rue Charles. They here show a small cannon, about three feet long, and thirty-two pounds weight, which the future soldier used to play with. At the age of ten, his father, Carlo Bonaparte, a noble by descent from a Tuscan family, and assessor to the law courts of Ajaccio, sent him to the military school at Brienne. Curiously enough, his first piece of active service, as lieutenant of artillery, was to attack his native town (February, 1793), which Paoli held against the Convention. He removed his family to Marseilles in May of the same year, when the English took Corsica.

Here was born also his brothers Lucien (1775) Prince de Caního; Louis (1802), king of Holland and father of the Emperor, Louis Napoleon, by Hortense Beauharnois; Prince Jerome, now Governor of the

and it was therefore unsafe to go alone or unarmed.

Travelling is done by mule, as best suited to the ground, which is up and down rugged mountains of granite and limestone, threaded by deep savage gorges, so difficult that they are called scale or ladders, with brawling rivers at the bottom; and through vast forests of pines (which the French use for their navy), oaks, chestnuts, cork, box, ilex, beech, arbutus. The region of pines and oaks is next the snow line, which runs from 7,500 to 8,000 feet above sea level. All the lower parts, down to the coast, are covered with exuberant groves of olives, orange, lemon, figs, almonds, &c., and a thick underwood, or shrubbery, chestnuts, which grow to an immense size, and are of aromatic plants, called macchia or makis. The found at the height of 5,000 and 6,000 feet, yield the chief food for the natives, who, with a bag of them They boast of being able to cook chestnuts 22 ways. and a gourd of water, are independent of want.

They employ themselves in keeping flocks and herds, but are too proud to work; this is left to the women, or to industrious Italians, who came over every year to the number of 6,000. It is the latter who cultivate the flax and tobacco, tend the vines, pomegranates, and other fruit trees, and collect the bitter honey and wax for exportation. But though indolent, the Corsito fight for their liberties, strong friends and strong cans are a quick and intelligent race, always ready enemies, and free and inquisitive in their manners. One of their chief amusements is boar-hunting. The mouflon, or wild sheep, an animal between a sheep. deer, and goat, exists here; foxes are plentiful, while

hares, red partridges, and other game, would furnish abundant sport, only that no one is now allowed to carry arms. Their war-dance is attended with much thumping and gesticulation.

Like the old Scottish highlanders, they are prone to indulge in the vendetta or private revenge, which they transmit from father to son; but the strong and effectual measures taken by the French government, especially the late prohibition of carrying arms, have greatly tended to diminish this crime. Previously, the murders were 160 a year; in the last cent. they reached 900 yearly. They bury the dead in separate family tombs, out in the open fields. The men dress in a cap, with a short brown jacket and breeches; the women much in the Italian style. Their language is Italian, with a mixture of Moorish and Spanish words.

right of it )beyond the Prunella), Cauro, near the Col St. Gorgio (2,600 feet high), with a fine prospect of Ajaccio.

BOCOGNANO (40 kil.), in a deep gorge, 680 yards above sea level, near the head of the Gravone, among forests of chesnut. Hence you still ascend by a zigzag road to the top of the pass, which is 4,000 feet above sea, and lies under Mont d'Oro (or Gradaccio), the Mons Aureus of Ptolemy, in Vizzavona beech forest, at the centre of Corsica-a granite peak, 8,700 feet high, covered with snow nearly all the year, and whence there is a noble view of the whole island, ci Sardinia and Elba, and even of the coasts of Italy and France. Mont Rotondo, to the north, is seen, 9,000 feet high, the highest point in the island; to the east is Mont Capella, and to the south, near Porta Vecchio, Mont Calva. Several of the lower peaks are mica slate. Iron and asbestos have been found. bye road turns off to Bastelina, near the head of the Prunella, with a population of 2,000.

A

VIVARIO (21 kil.), on the descent of the pass, 2,000 feet high, in the midst of pine forests, has a campanile church, and leaves Mont Rotondo on the left, with its lakes near the top, which are frozen all the year round.

CORTE (23 kil.)

The villages, called paese, desert the unhealthy flats near the coast (which resemble the Roman Campagna), and are perched round the hill tops up the mountains, within a height of 1,700 feet, where the winter is not felt, and pomegranates, peaches, tamarisk, &c., grow. "Each has a small tract of more fertile land, marked by deeper verdure, where the valleys open out, and their streams discharge into the sea. At this point, usually called Marino, there is generally a little port." (Forester's Rambles in Corsica and Sardinia, 1858). But charming and picturesque as the valleys appear at a distance, on a nearer approach they are found to be a conglomeration of tall shapeless houses, frowning and black with age, with un-Pascal Paoli's government, when Boswell visited that glazed windows, guarded by iron railings, looking like the holds of banditti, while the filth of the purlieus is unutterable.

Hotels.-Hotel de l'Europe, very good and clean, and moderate charges; very good for English. Hotel de France, a cheap hotel, not bad for Italians to stay at. Pop. 6,000.

Corte, on a rocky height of mica, where the Restinoca falls into the Tavignano, was the seat of

virtuous patriot at his country house, Sollacaro, near the sea side. He was born at La Stretta, a hamlet of Morosaglia, near the road to Bastia; and the son The people are all devout Roman Catholics, believ- of Giacinto Paoli, a leader in the first revolt against ing, of course, that there can be nothing good out of the Genoese, when the Corsican Assembly met here their church. When Boswell travelled here (1765), he and proclaimed their independence, 1755. Pascal relates, "That while stopping to refresh his mules, Paoli was chosen their general and leader, under the a strong black fellow in the crowd cried out, Inglese! protection of England, whither he afterwards retired, sono barbari; non credo in Dio grande.' (The when the Genoese sold the island to the French, 1768-9. English are heathens; they don't believe in the He came back in 1794-6, when it was again held by the great God). I said to him, 'Excuse me, sir, we do English, as part of the British Empire, under Sir G. believe in God, and in Jesus Christ too.' Um,' Elliot, as viceroy; but finally returned to England, and said he, e nel Papa?' (And in the Pope). 'No', died there, 1807. He lies in St. Pancras old church. 'E perchè?' (And why?) This was a puzzling ques- His bronze statue was set up in the public square, tion in these circumstances, so I thought I would try 1854. He founded an university at his house in a method of my own, and very gravely replied, 'Perchè Corte, now styled a college, to which Boswell consiamo troppo lontani.' (Because we are too far off)."tributed Johnson's and Addison's works, and some of This ingenious argument, he adds, perfectly satisfied the subtle querist.

The road out of Ajaccio, leads up the Gravone, which enters the Campo del Oro, a fertile pass between the main line of mountains, which run nearly north and south through the island. The first stage is CARAZZI (18 kil.), having, some distance to the

Foulis's classics. These are gone, but his own books are here, with paintings bequeathed by Cardinal Fesch. The house of Gaffori, the patriot leader against the Genoese, is shown, with the shot holes still in it. The Castle is perched on a rugged and inaccessible rock, and was only taken by the French by starving the garrisor. It commands a magnificent view of the

Trade in wine, olive oil, good marble (from Pontealle-Leccia, &c.), corn, fish, timber, cattle, tobacco, soap, wax, liqueurs, &c. There is a fine view of Elba and its mountains, the table land of Pianosa, Capraja, and Monte Cristo, and the Tuscan coast, especially from the mountain of Sierra di Pigno (3,500 feet), close to the town.

valley, the gorges of the rivers, and the mountains | justice, or cour impèriale; college, or high school, around. Here Napoleon's eldest brother, Joseph, was gendarmerie barracks, &c. born, 1768, his father being then secretary to Paoli; who, it is said, solicited the Viceroy to find employment for the future Emperor in the English service. Monte Rotondo, Monte Conia (6,500 feet), may be visited from Corte; also Soveria, on the Golo, the birth place of Cervione, one of Napoleon's best generals; Alando, where Sambruccio, the patriot leader, was born; and Niolo, a fine basin, approached by steep and difficult passes.

The Tavignano falls down to the east coast at the Tour of Aleria. At Bozzo, near Corte, the first revolt against the Genoese broke out, 1729, when the collectar had seized the goods of a poor woman for fiveponce taxes.

MONTE ALBANO (12 kil.)

PONTE - ALLA - LECCIA (9 kil.), at the bridge on the Golo (which runs white and milky), on the banks

of which, at Borgo, which the road passes, the Corsicans beat a superior force of the French, under Marboeuf, 1768; but in the next year they were finally defeated at

PONTENUOVO (8 kil.)

LUCINA (13 kil.), near the Golo's mouth and the east coast, not far from Vescovato, the seat of that Cassabianca, who, with his son, was blown up in the Orient, at the battle of the Nile.

BIGUGLIA (10 kil.), is close to a narrow lagoon of the same name, 8 miles long, and abounding with fish and wild fowl. To the left of it is Murato, with a church shaped like a Turkish mosque, built of black and white marble, by the Pisans.

BASTIA (9 kil.)

HOTELS:-Hotel de France, kept by M. Staffe; bed-room, 3 francs; table d'hôte, including wine, 3 francs. Hotel d'Italie.

English Consul.-E. Smallwood. Esq.
Electric Telegraph, via Cape Corte, to Spezzia.
Population, 20,000.

This is the military head quarters of the island, and a fortified town, opposite Italy and Elba, 35 miles from the latter, and upwards of 200 miles east of Marseilles. The English bombarded it, 1745; and took it, 1794, Nelson aiding in the Agamemnon. The French were 4,000 strong. It stands at the foot of some hills, on a little bay, which, with the help of a mole, makes a harbour for small craft, defended by 1 Genoese tower, in Terra Nuova, or New Town.

At the mouth is the Leone Rock, a piece of limestone, washed by the sea into the shape of a sitting lion, with his head raised, and serving as a breakwater. BartoJini's statue of Napoleon is on the Grand Place. The houses are in the Italian style, and amongst the best buildings are the old cathedral church of St. John; Ste. Croce Chapel, a pretty structure; a palais de

Monte Cristo, which now belongs to Mr. W. Taylor (Forester's Rambles), gives name to Dumas' wellknown novel. From Bastia, the line of mountains strikes south-west, dividing the island, popularly, into di quà and di là, dei Monti, or, this side (east), and that side (west) of the central ridge.

Coach to Corte, Ajaccio, Calvi, Bonifacio. Steamer to Marseilles every week, to Leghorn every Thursday. A narrow peninsula, 7 miles by 22, stretches from hence, north, to Cape Corte (the ancient Sacrum), traversed by a ridge of slate and marble, which is 4,540 feet high at Mont Stello, about the middle of it, near the Grotto of Brando. At Olmeta (olma, an elm), Marshal Sebastiani was born. On the west side of it, at 10 kil. west of Bastia, is

ST. FIORENT or ST. FIORENZO, which is well built, but unhealthy, with a good harbour or road, where the English squadron used to anchor in the war. It was taken by General Dundas and Sir J. Moore, 1794; and by Nelson in the Agamemnon. To the north of it are the towers of Farinole and Negro, with another called Mortella, which furnished the original model for the Martello Towers on the Kentish coast.

Further on are the towers of Sisco, and of Seneca, the latter on a sharp peak, and so called after thy Roman philosopher (though of a later date), who was exiled here by Claudius, and relieved his discontent, by writing a treatise on Consolation. He mentions the scorching heat of summer, and the sirocco winds, which bring sickness. Another, called tramontona, blowing from the mountains, brings snow; and there is also a fierce gusty wind called the lion wind.

Near Cape Corte is Porto Centuro, where Boswell landed, 1765, struck, not only with the prospect of the mountains, covered with vines and olives, and the odour of the myrtle and other aromatics, but with the sight of the peasants, all carrying arms. The first house he visited was Signor Antonetti's, at Morosaglia, about a mile up the country.

A coast road from St. Fiorenzo leads past Monto Arazzo to Ile Rousse, or

ISOLA ROSSA (45 kil. from Bastia), a little town of 1,100 souls, founded by Paoli, opposite an island of