the same name, and now turned into a fortified post. Here the Calvi steamer touches. The pass to Calvi, over the Col di Tenda, is 4,520 feet high, near M. Asto, 5,000 feet. CALVI (about 20 kil. further), on a rocky point in the Gulf of Calvi, has a good harbour, and an old castle, which Ma al de Thermes attempted without success. Pop., 1,400. Coach to Bastia, by S. Fiorenze or Ponte alla Leccia, the latter passing Belgodere and the beautiful plain of Balagna. A winding road or path of about 60 kil., which sometimes bends deep inland, under Monte Pagliorba (8,690 feet), Rotondo, and passes Vico (whence a road goes to Guagno baths, a fine mountain spot, and Corte), brings you to CARGESE, on the Gulf of Sagone, which belongs to about 700 descendants of the Greeks, whom the Genoese brought over in 1676, and is the best cultivated spot in the island. One of their little hamlets was called Paomia. The natives showed the most cruel jealousy towards them. At first they used the Greek, but, since 1822, they have used the Roman liturgy. A convent of St. Basil, founded by them, was abolished by the Genoese. SARTENE (about 50 kil.), near the river Valinco, which has a pop. of 2,800, living in granite houses, black with age. The Tallanto wine produced here is the best in the island. It is drunk on the spot by the growers. The other Corsican wines are poor, though capable of great improvement. Up the country is the Monte Incudine, 6,510 feet high, and its elevated pass, or col, which come into view, with the Sardinian mountains. Sta. Lucia produces beautiful orbicular granite. At 30 kil. from this is BONIFACIO, a fortified town of 3,000 souls, perched on a high cliff at the south end of the island, hanging over the Strait of Bonifacio, which divides Corsica from Sardinia. It is thought to be the site of Ptolemy's Pala, and was founded in 830, by the Marquis of Bonifacio, one of Charleinagne's peers. Alphonso of Arragon long besieged it, 1421, and the French took it in 1553. It is a curious closely-packed place, filthy and foul-smelling, with not a yard to spare. Everything is carried up to it on the backs of asses and mules. The ser, has undermined the limestone cliffs here into deep caves and grottoes. There is a striking walk up a limestone valley, between high regular cliffs, the ruins of St. Julian's convent. Trade in coral, wine, and oil. Coach to Bastia and Ajaccio. At 30 kil. further on is Ajaccio, described above. The road hence to Bonifacio is extremely interesting, The islands of Perdullo, Cavallo, Lavazzi, &c., lie being up and down mountain ridges and round the in the strait, which is 5 miles broad across to Point tops of hill, with distant prospects of the sea. The Longosardo, near Porto Torres, where the Genoa first places you come to are Cauro and Col San Gorgio. steamer calls weekly. "Agincourt Sound," near La About 30 kil. from Ajaccio, is Madalena, was Nelson's head-quarters during the blockade of Toulon. Sardinia is essentially different from Corsica in character, though only separated by a narrow strait. The coast road from this now turne north, past Gulf de Santa Manza, to ST. MARIA, to the north-east of which are the Guitera baths, near the head of the Taravo, which is full of picturesque scenery and old castles. Near OLMETO is Monte Buturetto, 3,000 feet high, on which stand the ruins of Arrigo della Rocca. Further on we pass the Taravo, down which, near another castle height, is Sollacaro, already mentioned, where Boswell had his first interview with Paoli, at an old house of the Colonnas (where Dumas lays the first scene of his "Corsican Brothers.") "For ten minutes we walked backwards and forwards through the room, hardly saying a word, while he looked at me with a steadfast, keen, penetrating eye, as if he searched my very soul." This soon wore off, and they became excellent friends. Boswell did his best to please the Corsicans; went about in a Corsican dress "with an air of true satisfaction," played to them on his flute, sang Italian and Scotch songs, and finished with Garrick's "Hearts of Oak," which he translated into Italian for them, to their great delight. "Cuore di querco," cried they, "bravo, Inglese !" It was quite a joyous riot, adds Boswell. The road now skirts the Gulf of Valinco to PORTE VECCHIO (22 kil.), or Old Port, on the bay of the same name, which makes a safe, deep harbour, 5 miles by 14, in the midst of an unhealthy marsh, which, however, yields good salt. It is the Elistum of Ptolemy, and is fortified. Here Paoli embarked on board an English frigate, in 1769, when obliged to leave the island, after the fatal battle of Pontenuovo, while his brother, Clement, retired to Vallambrosa. Pearl mussels are found; and granite is worked in the neighbouring hills, which, at Mont Calva, are 5,130 feet high. It has a trade in the red wine of Sari, &c. Pop., 1,800. After this, you pass by an uninteresting road all the way, the towers of Pinarello, Fuello, Salenzara (at the mouth of a stream which comes down from Sari), Seposa, and others, which belong to a chain raised in past times by the Genoese, for securing their conquests, and for defending the coast against pirates and come to magazine, &c.; and it was here that the sledges were made for Napoleon, when he carried his ordnance over the Great St. Bernard, in the winter of 1800. Coach to St. Jean de Losne. Tour d'Aleria, at the mouth of the Tavignano (60 1675. Pop., 4,700. It has an arsenal, barracks, powder kil. from Porte Vecchio). This marks the site of a tower founded by the Dictator Sylla, now half a mile from the sea. On the tomb of the Scipios, at Rome, we read, "He took Corsica and the city of Aleria," -from which a Roman way went to Pala, near Bonifacio. A little north of it, at the Tour de Diana, is part of a temple, built by Marius, when he founded Mariana, between two lagoons, or sea lakes. Monte Capella, 3,750 feet high, lies to the west. The road hence passes Ste. Luciana, Tour S. Pelegrino, &c. for 60 kil. to Bastia, again. This flat littorale is highly pestiferous in summer, but produces rich crops of grass and corn, The circuit of Corsica thus made is upwards of 420 kil. or 250 miles. Its greatest length is about 130 miles, and greatest breadth, 53; area, 3,380 square miles; total pop., 236.300, of whom 32,360 are landed proprietors. Ptolemy called this island Coornos. It was occupied in whole or part by all the nations who successively figure in the history of the Mediterranean-the Greeks, Carthagenians, Romans, Saracens, &c., and at length by the Genoese, who, however, held but a nominal possession for 400 years, til 1729, when the natives revolted, and in 1736 placed a German adventurer, Theodore de Neuhoff, who was page to the Duchess of Orleans, on the throne. He levied troops, coined money, and even created marquises, one of whom was Paoli's father. Being obliged to fly, he mortgaged his little "kingdom" to pay his debts, died in the King's Bench, 1746, and was buried in St. Anne's, Soho. The French, who at various times came to the assistance of the Genoese, acquired possession of it, as above mentioned, after 1769. ROUTE 21. Dijon to Auxonne, Gray, Dole, Salins, Besançon, Belfort, and Mulhouse. N.B.-Salins is the general starting point, pro. tem., for diligences to all parts of Switzerland. By rail, 118 miles to Belfort; four trains a day, 5 to 6 hours. Diion station, as in Route 20. The next is Genlis (3 miles), on the Tille. Collonges (2) miles). Auxonne (5 miles), where the junction from Chellindry (Mulhouse line) viâ Gray, falls in. Auxoune, on the Saône, in department Côte d'Or, a military post of the fourth class, fortified by Vauban, [ST. JEAN DE LOSNE (16 kil. south-west), an old village, in a green spot, down the Saône, where the Canal de Bourgogne joins, and near the mouth of the Canal du Rhône au Rhin. It sustained a hard siege in 1636. SEURRE, 14 miles south west of this, lower down the Saône, where it becomes navigable, has a population of 3,100, and a good trade in grain, wood, charcoal, &c.] The stations from Auxonne, on the branch to Gray, are as under, all on the Saône. Lamarche (7 miles). Pontailler (2) miles). Montoche (6 miles), in department HauteSaône. Gray (3 miles), as in Route 62. Following the maiu line from Auxonne, the nerf station is Champvans (3 miles). Then Dole (2 miles), where the branch line to Salins turns off. A sous-préfecture in department Jura, pleasantly situated on the Doubs, near the Canal du Rhône au Rhin, with some fine prospects round it. Pop., 10,850. The streets are steep. Besides remains of a Roman amphitheatre and aqueduct, it has an old Hôtel de Ville, Vergy tower (near the prison) the college de l'Arc (which belonged to the Jesuits), a library of 6,000 vols., with a museum of paintings, by natives of Franche Comté, of which this town was the capital. It was given up to France in the time of Louis XIV. Iron and coal are found here. Hotel.-De Geneve, kept by M. Flutsch; well situ ated, comfortable, and clean. [At 32 kil. south is LONS-LE-SAULNIER. This capital of department Jura, (formerly of There are a college, 2. library of 3,000 volumes, a museum, theatre, &c. General Lecourbe was born here. Franois (3 miles). BESANÇON. At the north end of the town, near the old castle of Montmorot, are the Puits des Salines (salt springs), rising into a great pit, 65 feet deep, whence the brine is carried by pumps and wooden gutters to vast buildings for filtering and boiling it. About 20,000 quintals (of 100lbs. each) are made. There is a good trade also in iron, wood, wine, eaux-de-vie, Gruyère cheese, &c. In the neighbourhood are the old abbey of Baumeles-Messieurs, under the fine Roches de Baume; the very old church of Coldre, near a well pre-built in France, lies in the old province of Franche served Roman camp, the château du Pin, where Comté, and is the centre of its watch-making trade. Henry IV. once stayed, the château d'Arlay, It is the Vesontio of Cæsar, on the Dubis, now the which belonged to the Prince d'Aremberg, and Doubs, which still surrounds it exactly as in his time, the fall of Poitte (15 kil.) on the Ain (about 53 ut circino circumductum, pene totum oppidum cingit feet down). (girdling it nearly quite round, as if drawn with a pair of compasses). It stands in a fertile valley, bordered by vine-covered hills, strengthened by forts commanding the approaches. The upper part, or La Ville, is ST. LAURENT (26 kil.) is the next place (see Route the site of the old city, where Vauban's citadel stands 29), beyond which is Geneva. 57 miles from Dijon, 254 miles from Paris. HOTELS.-De Paris; Du Nord; De l'Europe; National. OBJECTS OF NOTICE.-Roman arch-Cathedral -the Chaumars walk. Chief town of department Doubs, a first class fortress, seat of a military division, of a college, archbishopric, academy of sciences, &c. Pop. 41,300. This fine old town, one of the strongest and best From Lons-le-Saulnier, on the road to Geneva, you pass Clairvaux (23 kil.), at the bottom of a pretty valley, near a lake. on a mass of rocks in the peninsula made by the river. From Dôle, the stations to Salins are the follow- over which an old bridge, resting on great piers, made ing: Montbarry (8 miles). Chateley (3 miles). Arc-Senans (3 miles). Mouchard (32 miles). Salins (4) miles) is a town of 7,000 souls, in a rocky gorge among the mountains, at the head of the Furieuse, and has been rebuilt since the great fire of 1825, by a contribution of 2,000,000 francs from all parts of France. It is noted for the government salt-works (salines), an immense pile, above 900 feet long, where salt is boiled from the brine springs in the gypsum, which corresponds to the new red sandstone of Cheshire. Salt is a government monopoly in France. There is a good trade in wine, wax, honey, and cheese, Mont Poupet, near it, is 2,490 feet above the sea. Coaches from here to all parts of Switzerland, Ci anging at Neufchâtel and Pontarlier. Rute 22.] See by the Romans, crosses to the Basse Ville. The streets are broad and well built, and the promenades ornamented by fountains; one of them is a Nymph, with the water flowing from her breasts. Le Chaumars (Campus Martius) on the river, is the longest walk; another is the garden of Cardinal Granville's old palace. The are six gates. La Porte Noire (Black Gate), is a Roman triumphal arch, with two columns, and some statues left. There are also remains of an amphitheatre, baths, inscriptions, &c. St. John's Cathedral, of the 11th cent., has pictures by Vanloo (the Resurrection), Fra Bartolomeo (a St. Sebastian), Del Piombo (Death of Sapphira), and others. St. Madeleine's church has a fine portal, built 1830. St. James' was built 1707. At St. Francis Xavier's are several pictures. Other buildings are the préfect's hôtel; the law college and its garden, founded by the Granvilles; the palais de justice, near the préfecture, built 1745-49; large caserne, or barracks; the salle de spectacle, with Returning to Dôle, on the main line, we pass down a Doric portico of six pillars; public library of 50,000 ne Doubs, to Rochefort (4 miles). Orchamps (5 miles). Ranchot (3 miles). St. Vit (5 miles). vols., and some rare MSS.; the Musée Paris, founded by M. Paris, a native, having many coins, paintings, antiques; museum of natural history, and St. Jacques' hospital. Cæsar calls it the first town of the Sequani, in Belgio Dannemarie (31 miles), in the department of Gaul. It was taken by Attila. in the 5th cent.; afterwards became part of Burgundy, and an imperial city, ubs. till given up to Spain, 1648, and to France (with Franche Comté), in 1678. Here Hecker and Struve organised their disastrous revolution of Baden in 1849. Among the natives are Charles Nodier, Victor Hugo, Suard, General Moncey, M. Droz, &c. Rev. MM. Miroglio and Sandoz are French Protestant pastors here. Manufactures of watch and clock-work, hats, druggets, carpets, coarse woollens, thread, yarn, & The canal from the Rhône to the Rhine passes by. Conveyances tola Chaud-le F. (28 kil.), Lure, Vesoul. In the neighbourhood are the château de Montfaucon, built by Louis XI.; and near Boussières, down the river, are the large caverns, or grottoes of Oselles, 2,620 feet long. [From Besançon, on the hilly road to Lausanne, you pass ORNANS (27 kil.), in the picturesque valley of the Loue, which is crossed by two bridges. To the north-west, on a high point, stands the old castle of the dukes of Burgundy. Paper and cherry brandy (kirsch-wasser) are made here, and cheese like the Gruyère. Population, 2,982. There is a waterfall at hand, called Syratu, nearly 600 feet down altogether. In the neighbourhood are the grottoes of la Brème, Beaumarchais, Bonnevaux, &c. About 16 kil. further is the source of the Loue, issuing out of a cave in a precipice, 340 feet high. Pontarlier is 3 kil. beyond.] The next station to Besançon, down the Doubs Baume-les-Dames (7 miles), the ancient Balma, is a pretty sous préfecture, on the Doubs, under five peaks of the Jura, on one of which is a ruined castle of the dukes of Burgundy, destroyed 1476. The halle aux blé is part of an abbey, founded in the 8th cent. Great quantities of gypsum are quarried here. [At Chaux-les-Passavant, 9 kil. south, is one of those remarkable subterranean glaciers which are met with in various parts of the Jura range.] Clerval (4 miles). Pop. 1,400. A pretty place, with a castle, and furnaces round it. L'Isle-sur-le-Doub (6 miles), on a peninsula of the river. Pop. 1,300. Pins, wire, &c., are made here. Voujaucourt (10 miles). Then Montbeliard (24 miles), is a thriving place of 4,767 souls, in the fertile valley of the Allan, which is overlooked by a feudal tower, and is the birth-place of the great Cuvier, Watchmaking, &c., are carried on. [At 43 kil. east, is PONTARLIER, a border town and sous-préfecture, of 4,707 population, under the second chain of the Jura mountains, at a height of 2,700 feet above sea, well built, with a college, barracks, Hôtel de Ville, library, &c,; besides manufactures of iron, paper, tools, leather, wormwood, &c. General d'Arçon, who made the floating batteries at the siege of Gibraltar, was born here. Hotels.-Des Voyageurs; National, &c. Conveyances to Lausanne and Neufchâtel (in SWITZERLAND). The first place is reached via Jonques, Lignerolles, Orbe, and Chavorray station, on the Lausanne and Yverdun line. At the second place there is a change to the diligence for Berne. We pass Fort de Joux (4 kil.), near the defile of La Clause, on a precipice about 640 feet high, where Mirabeau and the unfortunate Toussaint l'Ouverture were confined. NEUFCHÂTEL, on the lake of Neufchâtel, is 16 leagues (about 66 kil.) to the north-east, down the picturesque Val Travers. The Doubs rises under Mont Rixon, in the Jura range, 3,120 feet above the sea, and about 30 kil. south-south-west of Pontarlier. At 25 kil. north-east of this town, near Morteau, in a rocky defile, only 32 feet wide, it tumbles over a fine fall, called the Saut-de-Doubs, about 86 feet down. POLIGNY (19 kil. south-west of Salins), a sous-pré fecture, and the Latin Castrum Olinum, at the head of the Golantine, in a gap under the Jura mountains, having several fountains and mills, a saltpetre work, part of an old fort, and of a Roman way, called Chemin Pavé. Pop. 5,900. A little north of it is Arbois, where Pichegru was born. Lons-le-Saulnier, is 30 kil. south-west of Poligny (see Route 21). Pierre (30 kil. west of it), near the fine moated Château of Thiard or Thyard, built 1672. It consists of two courts, and contains, among other rooms, the cabinet de l'Empereur, in which are Napoleon's writing desk and bureau.] From Salins, on the main road, the next place is CHAMPAGNOLE (22 kil.), in a pretty spot on the ascent of the Jura, under Mont Rivel, on the Ain, which turns mills for making wire, &c. ST. LAURENT (12 kil.), at the top of the Jura range, d castle has a douane or custom house, and commanding a wide prospect. Hotel.-L'Ecu. Thence down to MOREZ (12 kil.), in a narrow gorge of the Bienne, lined with mills and forges. Pop. 3,200. Clockwork, tourne-broches (jacks), pins, nails, cotton thread, &c., are made; and there is a good trade in Gruyère cheese, timber, wine, &c. LES ROUSSES (3 kil.), on a lake near the Swiss frontier, in the highest part of the Jura mountains, which may be ascended for the prospect. The last French custom-house is here; and here also the rivers divide, some towards the North Sea, others towards the Mediterranean. Here a road turns off to Noyon, on the Lake of Geneva. LA VATTAY (5 kil.), OR LAVATAY a small collection of chalets, from which there is a short cut towards Gex, through the narrow defile of Monts Faucilles, which brings you to the south side of the mountain, and all of a sudden discovers one of the grandest prospects in Europe, taking in the Lake of Geneva, Mont Blanc, part of Savoy, &c. The traveller must look out for this, by all means; especially towards sunset. GEX (15 kil.), a small sous-préfecture (in department Ain) of 2,900 souls, at the bottom of Mont St. Claude, on the Jornans, between the Jura mountains and Lake of Geneva, of which it commands a fine view, as well as of the Alps, the Jura chain, &c. Gruyère cheese, watches, &c., are made. Hotels.-De la Poste; des Etrangers; du Pont d'Arche. [About 28 kil. to the west-north-west is ST. CLAUDE, another sous-préfecture (in department Jura), and a seat of a diocese, in a picturesque valley in the Jura range, where the Bienne and Tacon join. The cathedral is not remarkable. Many small articles in bone, ivory, wood, as well as buttons, musical instruments, nails, copper goods (quincaillerie), &c., are made. Pop. 6,000. Around it are some Objects Worthy of Notice.-As the falls of Flumen and Queue du Cheval (i. e. Horse Tail)-Foules cave the intermittent springs of Noire Combe-the Pont de la Pile on the Ain-and the Pass leading to Tour-du-Meix, -Sept-Moncel (12 kil.) is noted for its cheese, and manufacture of stone carvings.] FERNEY (12 kil.) or FERNEY-VOLTAIRE, on the Swiss side, is a small village of watch-makers, on a beautiful part of the Geneva lake, formerly the residence of Voltaire, from 1759 to 1778. They show his sitting-room and chamber, with portraits of him, of Frederick the Great, Catherine II. (in tapestry, worked by herself), Franklin, &c.; also a pyramid (which once held his heart), set up by the Marquise de Villette, his adopted daughter, with the words "Son esprit est partout, mais son cœur est ici" (his The spirit is everywhere, but his heart is here). theatre is gone, but the church he built, "Deo erexit Voltaire," remains. Mont Blanc is in view. At 6 kil. further is GENEVA, to which omnibuses run; and thence there is railway communication with Lausanne, Lyons, Chambéry, &c. ROUTE 23. (Chemin de Fer de Lyon à Geneve.) Faris to Macon, Bourg, Amberieu, and Geneva; with branches to Lyons and Chambery. By rail the whole way; three trains daily from Macon, 5 to 6 hours. This is a single line of rail, but it is to be doubled. Distance, 114 miles, or 185 kil. By way of Chambéry, this line offers a direct railway route from Paris to Turin. Macon station, as in Route 20. Macon is the birthplace of Lamartine. Leaving this we cross the Saône by a viaduct on 5 five iron arches, each 118 feet span, with heavy embankments on both sides, into dept. Ain, a district of wet marshes and lakes, but very fertile, up the Veyle, to Pont de Veyle (5 miles), A model farm of M. Perceval is seen here. Vonnas (5) miles). Pop. 1,440. view. The Jura mountains in |