Imagens das páginas
PDF

ground, where urns, amphoræ, pottery, and bones | The manufactures are shawls, gloves, silk goods, have been found.

cotton, carpets (at Flessier's factory), pianos, steam Out of ten Roman Gates in the ancient walls, engines; there is a trade also in grain, wine, eaux-detwo are left. That called Porte de France, near the vie, olive oil, drugs, essences, &c.* hospital, on St. Gilles road, is a single plain arch, 221 Conveyances by rail to Alais (2 hours), by rail to feet high, 13; wide, with round towers at the sides. Alais, Besseges, and Grand Combe (see Route 31). Porte d'Auguste, on the Domitian way, or road to Carriages to Pont du Gard, 12 fr. there and back (sce Rome, is more ornamented than the other, and was built in the year 7 B, C., along with the wall, as an [At 4 kil. south is Caissargues, which has good fishinscription to Augustus testifies. It has four arches ing in the Vistre, and had a castle, pulled down through it, two large and two small, with an Ionic 1574. Names ending in argues, so common herecolumn between two Corinthian pilasters on the face. abouts, are derived from ager, a field, as in this Among the ancient buildings which have disap

me-Cassil ager, i. e., Cassius' field, or farm. peared were the Capitol, on the site of the gen

--About 15 kil. further on is darmerie; the Baths, in Porte St. Antoine; Basilica, Gilles-les-Boucheries, in a wine country, on a rock where the Palais de Justice now stands, &c. Charles near the Canal de Beaucaire, and so called after VI. built a castle near Porte des Carmes; pulled St. Gilles abbey, of which the highly carved down 1693.

Romanesque church of the 12th cent. remains, Several Protestant martyrs were burnt, 1551, in having behind it St. Gilles' screw, or spiral stairPlace de la Salmandre (the crest of Francis I.); and case. The Knights-Templars had a priory here. on Place de Boucaire, Roland and other Camisard lea Distilling, &c., are carried on. Raymond, Count ders were burnt, 1705. Besides the College, there are a

of Toulouse, was absolved here by the pope's large priests' Seminary, and schools of the Brothers of

legate, after being scourged, 1209, and here Christian Doctrine; also Protestant schools attached

Clement IV. was born.-Nearly 30. kil. further to an orphan home and a Normal school. A Pro

south, among the sand hills at the mouth of the testant Cemetery is on the Alais road, with "Après

Petit Rhône, is Les Saintes Maries, and its la mort, le jugement" (after death, the judgment)

ancient fortified church, with towers and battleover the gate; beyond it are the stone quarries in the

ments, and curious carvings, and four paintings Garriques hills. Tertiary fossils are found on Puy

on wood, by King René.] d'Autel, a hill to the south-west, towards St, Cessaire,

Leaving Nimes, the next station is where the telegraph stands.

St, Cesaire (14 mile), with little to arrest attenOf the three railway stations, or embarcadères, for

tion, any more than those which follow. Alais, Beaucaire, and Montpellier, that for the last Milhaud 12 miles) is approached in & cutting is the best, and is 328 feet long. The people are rough Pop.. 1.650. and independent in their manners, and divided into

Bernis (1 mile). two distinct religious and hostile parties, formerly

| Uchaud (11 mile), or Uchaux, in the midst of styled Grand and Petit Croix. Though the climate | vineyards. is better than that of Marseilles, it is still too cold

(12 kil, south of it is Vauvert, i.e., Valée-vert (or and exposed to the mistral and vent-de-bise, for per

Green Valley), the centre of the wine district in sons in weak health (Lee's Companion to the Continent.

this quarter, and once the site of a château, Wheat is thrashed in the open air by horses; and

visited by St. Louis, and pulled down, 1628. An the plough, or charrue, still keeps its classic shape. old castle (Beauvoison) of the Templars is near.] The dry and parched district round Nismes, and the road is crossed by a Roman bridge over the extending to Aigues-Mortes is to be irrigated and Vidourle, where we enter department Hérault. reclaimed by means of the Rhône, by a company, of

Vergeze (37 miles). Here are some old min eral

v which Lord Ward is president.

springs, useful in rheumatism, &c. Among its natives are Nicot, who brought tobacco

Aigues-Vives (1 mile) manufactures living into France (called Nicotina, after him), and Guizot, I waters." in the form of eau-de-vie. Pop., 1,7030. the statesman; Reboul, the baker-poet, is a resident;

Gallargues (1) mile). Pop., 2,100. Cavalier, the Camisard leader, was also a baker. He

Lunel (3} miles), a town of 6,400 souls, in d epart. died a pensioner at Chelsea Hospital. Eleven Pro

ment Hérault, trading in muscat or sweet wines. testant pastors are stationed here. The Rev. F. Gouthier, whose life has been written by his nephews,

* See " Tableaux pittoresque, &c., de Nismes, et de scs the Villemins, laboured here for nine years.

bawirons," by Rev. E. Frossard.

liqueurs, eaux-de-vie, fruit, grain, &c., and standing Baillargues (1 mile), is near Colombières, a among vineyards and oliveyards, with a spire church. pleasing spot among the rocks of the Carroux, not It had a famous synagogue in the 16th cent., and far from Pont-du-Verdier, a bridge of one arch from walls, which Richelieu razed, 1632, to punish the rock to rock. Huguenots.

St. Aunes (2) miles). Hotels.-Du Palais National; du Grand Soleil (Sun). Les Mazes (14 mile). From this it is 34 miles {At 12 kil. north, is SOMMIÈRES, a thriving place of to Montpellier stat., a handsome pile approached by 3,600 pop., up the Vidourle, under an old castle,

a tunnel.

MONTPELLIER. and having large manfactures of flannel, cloth, &c. Not far off is Ville Vieille (i.e. Old Town),

61 miles from Avigaon, 520 miles from Parts.

HOTELS.-Nevet; Du Midi; De Londres ; Du where a Roman bridge and other antiquities

Cheval Blanc ; De la Rochelle ; Du Tapis ; Vert have been discovered by M. E. Dumas, an Brun; Cafes de France ; De la Comedie ; Du Com. eminent geologist here. Hotel.-Du Soleil d'Or merce; Du Palais; Du Musée ; Du Pavillon. (Golden Sun)

Population, 45,800. To the south of Lunel, at 3 kil. distance, is MARSIL- 13 OBJECTS OF NOTICE. - Citadel - Triumphal

LARGUES, in a dull spot, on the Vidourle, noted | Arch-Cathedral - École de Medicine-Botanic Garfor its wines and alcohol, and having a castle, I dens. built 1623, with Diana of Poictier's cypher upon Capital of department Hérault (part of the proit, and many portraits of the Calvisson family, vince of Languedoc), seat of a military division, of a to whom it belongs. The annual errades, or bishopric, &c., on a rocky hill, near the Mosson, meetings for baiting and marking the wild bulls about 4 kil. from the Mediterranean. It was founded from the Camargues, offer great sport here. At in the 8th century, when Charles Martel destroyed 12 kil. further south, on the salt marshes near | Maguelonne (then a town of the Saracens), and, . the sea, is

under the name of Mons Possulanus, became noted AIGUES-MORTES, on the Grand Roubine and other for its commerce and School of Medicine. The latter

canals. At first there was a Benedictine abbey | appears to have gained for it the reputation of being called Psalmodi, here (restored 788 by Charle- a peculiarly healthy spot for invalids, though other magne), of which the gate tower is left. In places along this shore are as healthy and more 1248, St. Louis built a castle and the Tour de beautiful. Matthews, in the "Diary of an Invalid," Constance, which is 94 feet high, besides a turret says, “It is true there is almost always a clear blue of 35 feet on top; walls were added by his son sky, but the air is sharp and biting, and you are Philip, and the place now offers a complete continually assailed by the vise (north wind) or the specimen of a fortified town of that age, with marin. The one brings cold, the other damp." its towers, battlements, machicolations, ditches, One of its counts married a daughter of a king of

happy Pro-Arragon, whose descendants sold it to Philip de testants in the Constance Tower for 35 years; Valois. It was taken by Louis XIII. as a stronganother is called Tour des Bourgignons, from a hold of the Huguenots, to keep whom in check he built massacre made by the Dauphin's troops, 1421, the Citadel, at one end of the hill, 167 feet above the when the fort was held by the Burgundians, I sea, whence there is a fine view of the cultivated whose bodies were thrown here. The clock gardens, vineyards, woods, and country around, the tower is of the thirteenth century. A canal sea, Mont Canigou in the Pyrennes, and the Cevennes led down to the Grau-Louis, or harbour, on the being visible. At the other end of the hill is Place Mediterranean, whence St. Louis (Louis IX.) de Peyrou, a large, regular, well-planted square, built embarked for the crusades, 1270, and where by Daviler. Here stand Dorbay's triumphal arch Charles V. landed to hold his interview with to Louis XIV. in one corner, his bronze statue in the Francis I., in 1538. At Peccais, about 2,000 centre, and a six-sided domed château d'eau, faced men are employed in the government salt with Corinthian pillars. To this water is brought works. Fevers and mosquitoes are the torment from St. Clements by an aqueduct, eight miles of this part of the coast.]

long, built 1753-9, by H. Pitot, and distributed to Lunel-Viel (2 miles), is the best seat for mus

29 fountains in the town-one of which, in Place de cat above-mentioned. Fossil remains are abundant la Comédie, has a group of the Graces. This aqueduct in the limestone.

is mostly under ground, but near the city, it runs on Valergues (2 miles),

an imposing double row of arches (183 arches in one St, Bres (2 miles).

row, 53 in the other), and at one point is 92 feet high.

At a house in Place de Peyrou is the Musée Fabre, , triumphal arch, composed of a centre ten-column a bequest of Baron Fabre (pupil of David, died, 1837) / portico, with wings. The public bibliothèque has to his native town. It includes prints, sketches, 10,000 vols.; the theatre, on the citadel esplanade, medals, statues, paintings, (about 490) of the French, built 1786, is generally used as a bourse or exchange; Italian, and Dutch Schools, and 25,000 books, of the chamber of commerce is at the Hôtel St. Côme: which 15,000 belonged to his friend Alfieri ; and is the Tour de l'Observance serves as a telegraph. open thrice a week. Many of the paintings are worth Up the little stream of the Yerdanson, you come notice, one among them is Sir J. Reynolds's “Young to the fountain of Jacques Coeur, Charles VII.'s Samuel," a beautiful specimen. A School of Design goldsmith, who was a great benefactor to Montpellier. is connected with it.

Among a long list of natives are, James, King of St. Pierre's Cathedral is the largest and ugliest of

Arragon; Bourdon, the painter; Count Daru; and all the churches, of which there are four or five. It

Cambacères. Rev. MM. Michel, Rognon, Corbière, is 180 feet long, and has three towers, near one of

are Protestant pastors here. which is the porch, curiously resting on two cylin.

Manufactures of linen and cloth, liqueurs, chedrical pillars or turrets, with conical tops, ten side

micals, verdigris, refined sugar, leather, &c.; and a chapels, Santarme's statue of the Virgin, and paint

trade in these, with wine, fruit, olive oil, &c. ings by Bourdon ("Simon Magus”), Jean de Troy! ("Healing of the Cripple”), and Ranc (“Power of

Conveyances: by coach, to Rodez, Clermont, &c. the Keys"). Nôtre Dame des Tables church, which (see Routes 32, 33). belonged to the Jesuits, is now the college.

Several decayed ports are along the coast, which is Near the cathedral is, the ancient machicolated lined with low marshy lagoons or étangs, and sand

hills. Ecole de Médecine, first founded, they say, by the Arabs (or Saracens), and seated in what was the old

[At 10 kil, south, on one of these étangs (de Thou), bishop's palace. Among the objects in it worth

is the old cathedral church of Maguelonne, a mixnotice are, busts and portraits of eminent professors,

ture of the Arab or Norman, and the Gothic, from the 13th cent. (besides a bronze of Hippocrates

begun in the 7th cent., and altered 1054, and brought from Cos); the patched robe in which licen

fortified against the pirates. It is now a barn. tiates are dressed, once worn by Rabelais; the lec

The town was ruined in the 8th cent. by Charles turer's seat in the amphitheatre (which holds 2,000);

Martel. a marble piece of antiquity from Nismes; a library It is a fact that, as late as 1226, money was coined of 35,000 vols., and 600 MSS. in various languages, at Malquiel, under the authority of the bishops including Tasso's plan of his “Jerusalem Delivered,"

of Maguelonne, which bore the effigy of Mahomet. and Queen Christina's papers; and a room of ana

This was meant to conciliate his followers, who, tomical models in wax, chiefly from Italy, but some as well as the Jews, formed important colonies by Delpnech. The Botanical Garden, where De here.) Candolle lectured, is in the neighbourhood, and was The next station to Montpellier is begun by Richier de Belleval, 1593, in the time of Villeneuve (5 miles), so called when the canons Henry IV.; it contains 8,000 plants, many being rare of Maguelonne built a church here in the 12th cent. exotics, and one, a cyprus, called the Tree of Mont-Pop., 1.200. pellier. In a corner is a tablet to Narcissa, “Nar

Mireval (3} miles), in a tract of sandy marsh. cissæ placandis manibus,” supposed to be Young's

Away to the west of it is Piguan, with an old castle daughter-in-law, Mrs. Temple; she died of consump

of the 11th cent., and the ancient half Moorish abbey tion, and was buried here, but her body was afterwards

church of Vignogoul, older than the 12th cent. moved to Lyons, to escape the bigoted fury of the populace. This town is still reckoned a great Catholic Frontignan (43 miles), & decayed port, still stronghold; and the hatred of both parties is 60

celebrated for its sweet muscat wine, which is raised great, that they use different cafés, and will hardly in what appears a most uninviting spot. The curious meet in society.-Trollope's Impressions of a Won

fortified church and tower attract notice. Pop., derer.)

2,150. St. Eloi's Hospital, with 500 to 700 beds in it, was

The line runs hence on a slight embankment befounded as far back as 1183. The general hoepital, tween the sea and étang (leaving the Balaruc springs, built 1682, is near an asylum for Insensés (lunatics).

west), to There is a prison for 450 on the solitary system, Cette, 4 miles further, at the junction with the opened 1844; also a new Palais de Justice, near the Chemin de Fer du Midi (sec Route 66).

ROUTE 31.

Boucoiran (17 mile) on the Gardon, which

sometimes floods it, is a small village, with mills, Nismes, to Alais, Grand Combe, Besseges,

Gothic-looking houses, and an old château, with a Florac, Mende, St. Flour, and Clermont- square tower, on a rock. Pop. 700. Ferrand.

Ners (29 miles) on a hill, overlooking the fine Distance, about 322 kil., or 200 miles, through the valley of Beau-rivage, on the Gardon, with the hilly and interesting districts of the Cevennes.

Cevennes in the distance. By rail from Nismes to Alais and Besseges, 50! Vezenobres (14 mile), on a hill side. Pop. 1,030. miles, in 2h. 20m., twice a day. To Mende by road. St. Hilaire (41 miles). The rail passes several rocky trenches, and has four

Alais (33 miles) a sous-préfecture in department tunnels (one 1,300 feet long), and some well-con

Gard, of 18,900 pop., and a thriving town, among structed bridges and viaducts.

coal and iron mines, under the Cevennes mountains, Nismes, as in Route 30.

where the Cèze meets the Gardon d'Alais and Gardon [At 20 kil. north-north-east, is

de Mialet. It had a leper's hospital for the crusaders Uzès, 14 kil. north-west of Pont du Gard, a sous

in the time of St. Louis, and was held by the English préfecture of 6,200 souls, on the olive-covered

when given up 1422, to Charles VII. Having become rocks above the Auzon. It is the Roman Ucetia,

a head-quarters of the French reformed church, which had a temple to Augustus, and sent a

(which held a synod here, 1620, under Dumoulin), it bishop to the council of Arles, 455 A.D. In 1560,

was besieged and taken by Louis XIII., who razed its bishop and all went over to the reformed faith,

walls. Louis XIV, not only built a citadel but sent for which Louis XIII. garrisoned it, and razed

a bishop to bring them back again to the faith, the walls. It was latterly a duchy in the Crussol

though without success. The fort is now a law family (the first peers of France), whose old

court. There are a Gothic cathedral church, a library Chateau remains, with high walls and corner

of 3,000 vols., silk mills, &c. towers, like the bastille at Paris; the chapel has/ In the neighbourhood are the pretty walks on tho stained windows, and tombs of the Dukes from Gardon, the hermitage, part of a convent, the sulphur 1660.

mines of St. German de Valgagne; by another way, St. Therri's cathedral was burnt. 1611. except the in the valley of the Callaigon, you pass the Tour de fine circular Romanesque tower of six stages

Fare, belonging to General Meynadier, and part of (once eight, they say) to which a modern church

Puech-de-Cendras abbey, burnt by the Camisards, who is added, with a portrait of Cardinal Pacca. St.

were hunted down in the religious wars of 1704. Etienne's was the Jesuits' church. An ancient

Some mineral springs here are useful as tonics and crypt, in another part, has an ill-made figure of

in skin diseases. Revds. MM. Gaillard, Dubois, Christ, crowned, with the stigmata. The large E. Dhombres, are Protestant pastors here. bishop's palace is now the Hôtel de Ville, with a Hotels.-Du Commerce ; Lion d'Or beautiful park behind. A little beyond is the Two branch rails run up the country from Alais. house where Racine lived, 1661-2, when studying' (a) A railway of 114 miles (13 hour, thrice a day), theology here; it commands a fine prospect over runs past the valley of Gisfort, in which is a grotto Les Tamaris (81 miles), to called Temple des Druides, with a dolmen close

La Lavade (2} miles), and La Pise in La by; also the Tournal tower and the Fontaine

Grand Combe, the centre of this coal and iron d'Eure, which supplied the great aqueduct to

district, the mines of which are in the hands of a Nismes. Many Roman inscriptions have been found. A few silk goods are made. Revs. MM.

company. Pop., 4,730. Coal (houille) is plentiful,

both anthracite and inflammable, and is worked by Saussine, Dumergue, and Roux, are Protestant

means of galleries. The steam-engines were made in pastors here.

England, and brought here by way of Cette; several Conveyances to Nismes, &c.]

English workmen are employed in the mines and Mas-de-Ponge (61 miles).

iron-foundries. Zinc is also produced. The coal-field

reaches to St. Ambroix, north-east of Alais, on Fons (5) miles).

(b) the branch to Bességes, (19] miles in 11 hours St. Genies (3 miles).

The stations are Nozieres (2 miles).

Sallindres (53 miles).

ing.

St. Julien (37 miles). Then

mills; and, on the principal Place, a bronze St. Ambroix (31 miles), on the Gèze, a fine spot. statue of d'Assas, a young captain of an Auin the midst of rocky scenery, with many silk mills. vergne regiment, who fell at Clostercamp in Pop., 3,700.

Flanders, 1760. Making a reconnaissance at Molieres (3 miles).

night, he suddenly came upon the enemy, who Besseges (41 miles), the last stat. on the line. were advancing to surprise the French, and who There is a small branch, near Robeac, to Trélys.

threatened to shoot him if he spoke. Without The road hence to Privas and Valence, is described hesitation, he rushed on them, shouting, "A moi in Route 29.

Auvergne, ce sont les ennemis " (after me, soldiers, [At 10 kil. south-west of Alais is

these are the enemy!) and fell, pierced by scores ANDUZE, the Roman Andusia, a picturesque town, of balls. These last words are cut on his statue.

near the fine Château of Tornac (a key to Revs. MM. Dhombres, Colombier, and Bonthe Cevennes), where the Camisards began to quier, are Protestant pastors. rise against their oppressors, in the time of Louis A hill near château Marave offers a fine point of XIV., and where also Marshal Villars made

view. There are mineral waters at Cauvalot; proposals of peace to their chief leader, Jean

and, up the Arre, you come to the coal mines, Cavalier. They were eventually subdued by the

which Mr. Hammond, an Englishman, is workDuke of Berwick, 1705. On the west, is the fine valley of St. Jean de Gardon

The road from Le Vigan to Montpellier, is denenque. The rugged rocks of granite, grau scribed in Route 32.] wacke, limestone, gypsum, &c., are worth notice;

LE POMPIDOU (30 kil.), on the Gardon, under the quercus coccifera, an oak yielding a beautiful

ridge of the Cevennes, which divides the departments dye, abounds here.

of Lozère and Gard. To the south-west is the castle where Florian, the

[Cassagnas, about 10 kil, north-east, with its caves, French novelist, was born ; also Sauve, on the

was one of the head quarters of the Camisard Vidourle, where fourches, or wooden pitchforks,

leaders.) are made, and lead mines worked ; La Salle

FLORAC (23 kil.), a sous-préfecturo in department (pop., 2,120) which has silk mills on the Gardon,

| Lozère, of 2,300 souls, in the valley of the Tarı, and gypsum quarries ; and

where the Tarnon and Minente join it, among the ST. HIPPOLYTE (pop. 5,200), near the head of the

Hautes Cevennes. It began in a castle, of which a Vidourle, with a Protestant temple, built out of the fort erected to overawe the professors of that

part of two low battlemented towers are left; and faith, which fort was formerly the château of

has but one main street, with a church, a Protestant

chapel (Rev. M. Alberic, pastor), palais de justice, the seigneurs. For Le Vigan (see below). Revs. MM. Boissière and Dussaut, are Protestant pas

&c. The sides of the rock are covered with vines, tors at St. Hippolyte.)

chesnuts, and oaks. Starting from Alais, by road to Florac, &c., we

About 12 kil. up the Tarn, is Pont Montvert, under

Mont Lozère, where the Camisards murdered the come to MIALET, 10 kil. west of Alais, which is noted for its

priest Chayla, 1702, a cruel persecutor of the Protesmountain caves, in which bones have been found;

tants, for which their leader was burnt alive. Pope and also as the birth-place of Roland, the Camisard

Urban V. was born at Grizac near this. leader, in the religious wars, who used to hide here,

ISPAGNAC (9 kil.) or HISPAGNAC, on the Tarn, in a and who, being captured by Villars, was burnt alive, pretty valley, near the high, cold, and dreary plain, at Nismes. At 5 kil, further is

called the Causse de Sauveterre, 2,870 feet above the ST. JEAN DU GARD, on the coach road to Nismes, sea. in a fine part of the Gardon d'Anduzes, where silk, [QUEZAO, nearly opposite it, is noted for its mineral goods, millinery, &c., are made.

water, and a Gothic bridge and chapel, built hy LE VIGAN (25 kil. to the south-west) is another Pope Urban. ST. ENIMIE, 11 kil. further down

charming place (and sous-préfecture, of 5,000 the Tarn, in the midst of wild and rugged peaks, souls), on the Arre, near Mont l'Éperon in the grew out of a monastery to St. Bennet, founded Cevennes, surrounded by country houses of the in the 7th cent., by a daughter of Clotaire II. Nismes and Montpellier gentry. A Gothic ST. PREJET, 20 kil, still further down the Tarn, bridge crosses the river. There are Catholic and is at the bottom of a defile 1,900 feet deep at the Protestant churches, cotton and silk thrad! Pas de Souci, where it is so narrow that a bridge

« AnteriorContinuar »