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193

(Travellers); la Cloche

the uninteresting tract next stations on the rail

n which a rail branches Pe Route 56).

e Saulx.

th a pop. of 2,800, and the neral water. Then evigny-aux-Vaches, in deJ. And 7 miles further, is E-DUC.

wan); Grand Cerf; Lion

of department Meuse, in in, built for a frontier (or Duke of Upper Lorraine in Duchy of le Barrois. The rbels, placed back to back, e. Haute Ville, or Upper und a fragment of the old is XIV., in 1670), whence Ville lies along the river, adges, and is a lively part, eral tanyards, cotton mills, church, on the hill, has né de Chalons (killed 1514, scles, bones, and skin disof M. Angelo. There are ôtel de Ville, college, palais CC.

Excelmans were born here. Marshal; and the museum sent from Rome by his son, lition of 1849.

and woollens, lace, and deeats); trade in light wines n the forests around.

Verdun (46 kil.; see above), Jastle of Jean d'Heure, and 3 grotto, are near.

he rail, to Nancy, you pass

es), on the Ornain.

(4 miles). Coach to Ligny

ls, on the Ornain,

grounds round

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rières, Provins (see Route 62), Rozoy, Jouy-le-Châtel, structure begun 1212, and left unfinished in the 16th Fontenay, &c.

[ERMENONVILLE (24 kil. north-north-east), has a country seat, with a lake and fine grounds, built by the Girardins, its Vicomtes (on the site of an older), in which Rousseau died, 1799, in what is now the lodge. His tomb is among poplars on an island in the lake, but his body lies in the Pantheon. A little circular temple to the Advancement of Philosophy (purposely left unfinished), stands on six pillars, dedicated to Newton, Descartes, Voltaire, Montesquieu, Penn, Rousseau; the whole being dedicated to Montaigne. The Emperor Joseph, Gustavus of Sweden, and others, have visited this spot.] The rail crosses a bend of the Marne, twi e before Meaux, but the scenery is good. Near the Chalifert canal tunnel, is a short railway tunnel of 550 feet (one of the most troublesome constructions on the ine), which leads to Esbly (5) miles). miers, Beton-Bazoche. [COULOMMIERS (23 kil. south-east), a sous-préfecture in department Seine-et-Marne, of 4,000 souls, in a pleasant part of the Grand Morin, on which is an island with remains of a château built by the Duchesse de Longueville. It arose out of St. Denis' church, founded by the Counts of Champagne, and has a good chapel to the convent established by the duchess. General Beaurepaire, who shot himself rather than give up Verdun, 1702, was a native. Many mills for grain, tan, &c.; and a trade in Brie cheese, melons, wool, cattle, &c. Hotels.- De l'Ours (Bear); la Croix Branche (White Cross).] Five miles further is

Coaches to Crécy, Coulom

MEAUX,

28 miles from Paris.

HOTEL.-Grignon.

A well-built town, sous-préfecture, (9,900 pop.), and ! bishopric, in a pleasant spot on the canal de l'Ourcq and the Marne, which divides it in two; that part to the south being called the Marché, and joined to the other by a wooden bridge overhung with mills, turned by the rapid current. It was the capital of the Meldi in Roman times; and later, of Brie Champenoise; was ravaged by the Normans (8th century), and by the Jacquerie rioters (14th century); taken by the English, 1420, and by Henry IV., 1594. As many as seven councils have been held here, the last of which excommunicated Frederick of Germany. The best building is St. Etienne's Cathedral, a massive Gothic

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century; it is 332 feet by 138, and 213 feet high a the north tower, which stands on one side of the west front, and commands a view nearly up to Paris. It is well-proportioned, and like that of York; the south tower is only finished to the first stage. Inside are thirty-two clustered pillars and a rich choir, with a tomb to the eloquent Bossuet, who died bishop. His statue by Rutchiel, is at the Palace, close to the cathedral, where they show his library, &c., in the gardens, which were laid out by Le Nôtre, who planted Greenwich and St. James's Parks. There are two other churches, a large hospital or Hôtel Dieu, a halle or market, theatre, college, library of 14,000 vols., cavalry barracks, &c., and a Grande Place. Trade in grain, cattle, fromage de Brie (Brie cheese), poultry, and wool; a few muslins are made.

Coaches to Coulommiers (see above), Dammartin, Juilly, Nanteuil-le-Hardouin, Villers-Cotterets, La Ferté-Milon, May, Crouy, Lizy.

[DAMMARTIN (16 kil. north-west), on a hill, where there is a fine circle of view. Lace is made. Mayen-Mulein (11 kil. north-east), on the canal de l'Ourcq, has an ancient church, ranking next to Meaux, in this diocese.

LA FERTE MILON (12 kil. further), in department Aisne, on a hill by the Ourcq, was fortified as far back as 845, and has the fine remains of a castle dismantled by Henry IV. In front of the Hôtel de Ville is David's statue of Racine (born here, 1639), whose bust, by Stabinsky, is in the bibliothéque of 17,000 vols. Pop., 4,800. Hotel.-Du Soleil d'Or (Golden Sun). VILLERS-COTTERETS, (10 kil. north of this, to which it is joined by a short rail for transporting produce to the canal de l'Ourcq), in the forest of Retz, has a château restored by Francis I. (on the site of one burnt by the English) now a depôt de medicine, or poor-house for the district. Near it are remains of Longpont abbey church, founded in the 12th cent. General Dumas (called the French Cocles, for his defence of Brixen bridge), and Otto the statesman, were natives.]

The railway crosses the Marne to

Trilport (32 miles) or Trie-le-Port, near Montceau castle, once the property of Cath. de Medicis. Then comes Armentières tunnel, (2,105 feet long), and a second bridge; then

Changis (4 miles).

La Ferte-sous-Jouarre (5 miles), at the bridges on the Marne (one suspended), was in the 12th cent. a ferté or strength, built by a seigneur called Ancoul, and in the 16th cent. was held by the

Protestants, and often plundered. On a pretty island is the old château de l'Ile, or La Barre, where Louis XVI. and his queen stopped, when they were brought back from Varennes. There are several good points of view around. Mad. de Pompadour was born here. Pop., 4,200. Trade in corn, charcoal, and meules à moulin, or mill-stones, for which it is famous. Coaches to Jouarre, (on south bank), Marigny, Montmirail, La Ferté-Gaucher, and Sézanne. [MONTMIRAIL, (23 kil. east-south-east), on a hill by the Petit Morin, is also noted for its millstones, and for a victory obtained by Napoleon, 11th February, 1814, over the Prussians and Russians. The duc de Dudeauville has a seat here. Cardinal de Retz was a native. At Vauchamps, (7 kil. east), Napoleon defeated Blucher, 14th February, 1814, after having routed his advanced guard on the 10th, at Champaubert, (11 kil. further), but at Fère Champenoise, (24 kil. southeast of this), on the Pleurs, Marmont was finally beaten by the Allies, 24th of March, Montmort, (6 kil. north-north-east of Champaubert), has a moated brick donjon, square, and flanked with turrets; with a church ornamented with good stained windows.

Nanteuil, (5 miles), through a tunnel, 3,080 feet long. Then another bridge (the seventh), over the Marne, to

Nogent-l'Artaud, (6 miles), in department of the Aisne, from which there is a coach to Charly, across the Marne. The tunnel of Chézy l'Abbaye, about half the length of the former, brings you to Chateau-Thierry (7 miles).

Hotels.-De la Sirène; Poste.

This is a sous-préfecture of 5,620 pop. on the rocky hills of the Marne, crowned by the fine remains of a château, built 720, by Charles Martel, to hold Thierry IV., the infant son of Childeric. It has frequently suffered from war, having been attacked by the English, 1370; by the Leaguers, 1421; by Charles V., in 1544; by Henry of Guise, 1571, (called Balafré, or gashed, like his father, from the wound he received here); the Frondeurs, 1614; and especially in 1814, when it was taken and retaken, and the old bridge destroyed. This was replaced by a three-arch stone one to the faubourg across the river, where, on the promenade, is a statue of La Fontaine, (a native, 1621), whose house is still shown here. An old fortied gate leads out to faubourg la Barre. Near the castle is St. Crépin's ancient church, with a tall tower; the old Beffroi, is another conspicuous tower, surrounded half way up, by pinnacles. The Hôtel Dieu, founded by Philippe le Bel's queen, Jeanne,

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Good churches are seen at Essomes (13th cent.), Chasy-l'Abbaye (built 1130); also at Mezi-Moulin and Condé-en-Brie, to the south of the railway, further on. The prospects around are good.

Mezy (5 miles), or Mezy-Moulins, has an old church.

Varennes (1 mile). Coaches to Fismes, Braisne, Fère-en-Tardenois.

[FERE-EN-TARDENOIS (17 kil. north), once fortified,

and taken by the Huguenots, Leaguers, &c., has, not far off, the fine ruins of Robert of Dreux's castle, built 1206, consisting of parts of eight great towers (one 60 feet high), within a wall. This is joined to an outwork across the ditch, by a drawbridge, on a viaduct, built 1539, by Anne de Montmorency, 91 feet high and 170 feet long, strengthened by tall battlements, &c. At BRAISNE-SUR-VESLE (18 kil, further), are mineral waters, and a good church, which was part of an abbey, founded 1130. FISMES (15 kil. north-east of Fère), in department Marne, on the Vesle, is the Roman Furis, where councils were held, 881 and 935, and which marked the borders of Austrasia. Napoleon made it his head-quarters, March, 1814.]

Dormans (6 miles), at the suspension bridge on the river, has St. Hippolyte's old church, with a curious louvre tower, and a château, with a trade in wine, grain, &c. Cardinal Dormans, bishop of Beauvais, was a native.

Port-a-Binson (53 miles), on the south side of the river, opposite the old castle of Châtillon-suMarne, where Pope Urban II. was born, 1095. On a hill, between this and Damery, are the spires of the modern château of Boursault, built by Madame Cliquot, the wine-merchant of Rheims, for her sonin-law.

Damery (5 miles), supposed, from the coins found here, to have been of importance formerly, is on the north side of the river, which improves as you ascend it into the champagne wine country. At 4} miles further, is

EPERNAY,

88 miles from Paris, and 22 from Strasbourg. There is a buffet here.

A branch railway turns off to Rheims and Mezières | launi, near which Aurelian beat Tetricus, in 271, and (see Route 55), and to Laon and Terquier, on the St. Attila was defeated by the Romans, in 451. It is Quentin line (see Route 6). guarded by walls aud moats, and has six principal gates, leading to as many roads. Many of the houses are built of lath and plaster. Four churches remain, of which St. Alpin and St. Jean are the oldest: the latter dates from 324.

HOTELS.-De l'Europe; Syrene.

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Epernay is a sous-préfecture in department Marne of 6,350 souls, in a pleasant spot on the Marne, under the vine-covered chalk-hills of Champagne, of which wine this is the entrepôt for the best growths. They are distinguished as mousseux (frothy or effervescing) and non-mousseux. The merchants, one of whom is the well-known M. Moet, live in handsome houses in Faubourgs la Folie and le Commerce; and the hills around are excavated for their cellars, where millions of bottles are stored.

The loss from breakage (caused by the effervescing gas), in July and August, is 5 to 40 per cent. While this goes on, the workmen wear wire masks. Each acre of wine-land yields about 260 gallons, the price of such land varying from £200 to £500 an acre. Some houses are of timber or brick; a stone bridge crosses the river. The painted windows of the old Gothic church are preserved in the new Italian one, built 1828-32. At the Hôtel de Ville is a library of 10,000 vols. and a museum.

Some derive the name of this place from Aqua perennes. Clovis gave it to the archbishops of Rheims, who fortified it. Francis I. burnt it, to hinder Charles V. from taking it, and it fell to Henry IV., after a siege, in which Marshal Biron was killed-his head being knocked off, while the king's hand was on his shoulder. Later, it belonged to the ducs de Bouillon. Pottery, millinery, leather, &c., are made; and it has a good trade in wood and charcoal, as well as wine. Coaches to Montmirail and Sézanne.

Oiry (3 miles). Coaches to Lesmenil, Avize (4 miles south), also noted for its wine and cave cellars, and Vertus.

St. Etienne's Cathedral, rebuilt in the 16th cent. (on the site of a temple to Apollo), in a rich florid style, is 360 feet long, and has two tall, slender spires of open work, resting on towers of a much older date, a portico in the Greek style, a fine altar by Mansard, stained windows, and an ancient crypt. Higher up the town are the more elegant spires of Notre Dame church, built between 1157 and 1322, partly in the Norman style, with good painted windows, and a mosaic pavement. The Hôtel de Ville, on Place d'Armes, built 1772, has a dome and an Ionic façade of four pillars, with bas-reliefs of the productions of Champagne, and portraits of natives. de la Préfecture, built 1762, is also a good building, with a Doric front. At the École des Arts et Metiers (school of arts and trades), is a pretty chapel, and 300 pupils. The library has 22,000 vols. Promenade du Jard, on the Strasbourg road, is well planted. On the opposite side of the river is a barrack, once the convent of St. Pierre. There are a high school, a theatre, botanic garden, school of design, society of agriculture, priests' seminary, museum, hospitals, and immense wine stores in the chalk caves; in particular, those of M. Jacquerson.

Hôtel

The

Trade in Champagne wine, casks, wool, oil, leather, cutlery, &c. Lacaille, the astronomer was born here. The great battle above mentioned, which for a time stopped the progress of the Huns, was fought at a spot called Attila's Camp, 5 miles off, near Chape and Cuperly, with immense slaughter on both sides; Etius, the Roman commander, assisted by his Visigoth allies, was successful, but their king, Theo

Jalons-les-Vignes (62 miles), on the Marne, doric, was sla in. where the Somme Soude joins. Pop., 600. At 8 miles further is

CHALONS,

Or Chalons-sur-Marne, 107 miles from Paris. HOTELS.-De la Cloche, an excellent hotel, affording English comfort.

Morizot; De la Haute Mere Dieu.

An ancient place, chief town of department Marne, in the old province of Champagne, seat of a military division, of a bishopric, &c., in a fine meadow and wine country, on the Marne, which is crossed by A stone bridge of three arches. It was the Duro-Cata

Conveyances by coach to Verdun, St. Ménehould, and Troyes.

[A branch rail of 15 miles was opened in 1857, from Chalons to

MURMELON, near the permanent military Camp. COURTISOLS, 7 miles off from Chalons, on the Ste. Ménehould road, has a pop. of 2,000, of Celtic origin, who have managed to preserve to the present day their own patois and customs, distinct from their neighbours. They are keen traders; they marry only in the spring, and when one of them dies, his linen is taken to the river-side, and there beaten in due form, by the survivors,

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