which is adorned with figures of angels and evan- Commerce; a Halle-au-Ble or grain market, was gelists).

(180 miles, in nine hours, but two days back), Cologne | Hôtel de Ville, built 1640. Woollen mittens and (ono lay), Antwerp (two days). Agent for the Rhine socks are made. Andlau (south-west of Barr), among Steamers, M. Louis Hasenclever, Quai St. Thomas, vine-covered hills, is another pretty spot, near Hohe No. 14. Within a distance of 20 miles are the mineral Andlau castle, a conspicuous ruin, on a hill, once the springs of Avenheim, Soultzbad, Holtzbad, Nieder- seat of a very old Alsace family. Here was an abbey, bronn, &c., all of a sulphurous kind, and generally founded by the wife of the Emperor Charles the Fat. seated in some delightful valley. Kogenheim (31 miles), on the Ill. "Heim," in these names is literally "home."

ROUTE 54

Continued.

Strasbourg to Mulhouse, Basle, &c. Up the Rhine by railway. Distance, 139 kil, or 89 miles; four trains a day, 3 to 5 hours. Only 15 kilos. or 33lbs. of luggage allowed. The trains stop five to ten minutes at the St. Louis custom-house, on the frontier. Terminus, near Porte de Saverne.

The railway passes up the valley of the Ill, which receives innumerable streams from the Vosges mountains to the west, through its principal branches, the Eger, Andlau, Scheer, &c. Between the Ill and Rhine is the Rhine and Rhône canal, which has a branch to Bâle, and joins the Saône at Dijon.

Ebersheim (2 miles), has a buffet, and a conveyance to Dambach, near Bernstein castle. Towards the Rhine are the three slender towers of Ebermünster church, whose abbey was founded in the 7th cent. It has some very old frescoes and wood carving.

Schlestadt (4 miles), on the fertile banks of the Ill, a sous-préfecture of 10,360 pop., and an old free city of Alsace, called Electus, by the Romans; ruined by Attila, but rebuilt 1216, and after some changes, taken by Louis XIV., 1673, and fortified by Vauban. The chief buildings are St. George's Gothic church of the 14th cent., with a square tower, 187 feet high; the Recollets' church; public library, with Geispolsheim (7 miles), on the Eger, once a some early printed books; the college at the old comfortress. Pop., 8,220. Dachstein, 12 kil. off, on the mandery of Malta, near the round church of St. Foi, Ill, was a fortress taken by Turenne, 1674. Further built 1094, by a crusader, on the plan of the Holy off are Molsheim and Mutzig, where they manufac- Sepulchre; the arsenal; the old fause porte or belfry ture ribbons, fire-arms), &c. tower, in the Gothic style; new corn market and Fegersheim (1 miles), near the Ill and And-tobacco factory. Martin Bucer (or Kulborn), was a lau. Rosheim (15 kil. west), in a pretty position on native. The Giessen passes by on the north, from the Magel, is a walled town of 4,000 souls.

Limersheim (2 miles).

Erstein (2 miles), on the Ill, was a fortress in the stormy times of the Empire, like most other places in this frontier land. Pop., 3,690. Coach to Obernay (12 kil. west-north-west), which lies on the Andlau, above Neidernay, and is ill built, with a pop. of 5,100 souls, who make calicoes, &c. It has an old château, and a Gothic tower, called Kappelen Thurm. Further up the Vosges, you come to the Hochfeld and Odilienberg, near the Waldersbach, the scene of Oberlin's labours. Odilienberg is a favourite pilgrim's chapel, founded by St. Odile, daughter of a duke of Alsace, on a height which commands a view almost to Basle. There are several fine ruins about it, as the castles of Rathsamhausen, Landsberg, and Andlau, and Truttenhausen convent.

Matzenheim (3 miles), on the Ill. Benfeld (21 miles), also on the Ill, in the centre of the tobacco cultivation, and a small place of 3,000 souls, as old as the 7th cent., but dismantled after the treaty of Münster. Coach to Barr (11 kil. west-northwest), a Protestant town of 4,600 pop,, in a delightful hollow, under the Kirchberg, Hohenburg, Monkalb, and other heights. The old castle is replaced by a

the Vosges mountains, which are in view. Manufactures of pottery (enamelled pottery was invented here in the 12th cent.), metallic gauze, iron and copper, &c., are carried on.

Hotels.-De Bouc (Goat); de l'Aigle d'Or (Golden Eagle).

Coaches to St. Marie-aux-Mines (see Ronte 60). St. Die, Epinal, Nancy, &c. Orschwiller (6 kil. westnorth-west), is in the neighbourhood of the Ramstein and Ortenberg towers, of Kirtzheim and its castle, and under the fine old castle of Hohe Königsberg, which the Swedes destroyed after they took this town, in the Thirty Years' war, 1632. It was built by the Frankish kings, and became an imperial fief, being held by knights, who were half robbers and half tyrants.

St. Hippolyte (33 miles), in department HautRhin, is the nearest station for Königsberg castle, and also Frankenberg, another picturesque ruin, burnt, 1582. It belonged to the bishops of Strasbourg,

Ribeauville (2) miles), or Rappoltzveiler in German, among vineyards, in a pretty valley, under the heights covered by the old castles of Rappoltstein, Giersberg and St. Ulrich. St. Gregoire's church has several ancient tombs; the Hôtel de Ville is good

Pop., 7,340. In the neighbourhood are remains of
the chapel, Nôtre Dame of Dusenbach, and a famous
cyclopean wall (on the sides of the Vosges), called the
Heidenmauer, or Heathen's wall. The vast blocks of
which it was composed, are traced for 5 or 6 miles.
Near Baroche, to the south, is Hohenach castle, the
tower of which commands one of the most beautiful
views in this interesting country.
[At 18 kil. east-south-east, is

the Dominican church is now the Schöngauer Society's, and the old Protestant church is a storehouse.

Other objects of notice are the ancient Maison de Ville, the préfect's hotel. Here also is the head (as well as the sword which cut it off) of Hagenbach, Charles the Bold's governor, who figures in "Anne of Geierstein;" the hospital, the vast maison d'arrêt, (prison), large cavalry barracks, and public slaughter

MARCHOLSHEIM, near the Rhine, with bleach-house, (abattoir); the college contains the bibliothèque ground and tobacco factories. Pop., 2,600.] Ostheim (2 miles). Pop., 1,700.

[At RIQUEWIHR (7 miles west), among vineyards, on the Sempach, is the old castle of Reichenstein, dismantled 1209. A little south of it, on the Weiss, is the old imperial castle of Kaiserberg, built in the 13th cent., by Fredk. Barbarossa, whose statue is in the village. The ruins of Alspach abbey are near this; and higher up the stream are the fine ruins of Hoh Landsberg, and Plixbourg.]

Bennwihr (2 miles). Coaches to Tigolsheim, Kintzheim, Kaiserberg, Orbey, La Poutroye Orbey is under a mountain, on which are the White and Black Lakes; each about 3 miles in circuit. White Lake, shut in by granite walls, is the source of the Weiss. Hereabouts is the highest part of the Vosges chain.

At 2 miles further is

COLMAR,

of 40,000 vols., besides rare MSS., and a museum of paintings by Schön, A. Durer, &c.

In the neighbourhood, are the large factories of MM. Hauseman, Hersog, &c. At MÜNSTER (20 kil. to the west-south-west), in the busy valley of that name, is M. Hartmann's factory, near the old castle of Schwarzenburg. Generals Rapp, and Rewbel, who was one of the Directory, were natives of Münster. MM. Schaller, Heintz, &c., are Protestant pastors here. Münster had an abbey, the last head of which embraced Protestantism, in 1536. In this quarter are Wintzenheim, under Hoh Landsberg castle; and Turckheim, once an imperial fief, now noted for its red wines. Here Turenne gained a victory over the Imperialists, 1675, with the assistance of English troops, lent by Charles II.

Colmar has large manufactures of cotton, linens, ribbons, powder, &c.; and a trade in wine, grain, &c. Conveyances by coach to Brisach, Nancy, Besançon, Lyons, &c.; Freibourg in Baden, &c. A road leads down to a custom-house and ferry on the Rhine, the passage of which is guarded by Fort Mortier, and

A buffet, 39 miles from Strasburg; 46 from Basle. the citadel of Neufbrisach, built by Vauban on the HOTELS.-De l'Ange (Angel);

Des Deux Clefs (Two Keys);
Des Trois Rois (Three Kings.)

Rhine canal.

From Colmar, on the way to Bâle, you pass Eguisheim (5 miles), which has a strong sixPop., 21,350. Chief town of department Haut-sided tower left of an ancient château, the birthRhin (with a tribunal, &c.), in a fine plain near the place of Leo IX. Pop., 2,130. Here also are the German frontier, half way between the Vosges and Drei Exen, or three towers of another castle which the river Rhine, on the river Latch, 13 miles from belonged to the imperial house. the Ill. It is not far from the site of the 1. man Argentovaria; it was an imperial free city, till given up to France, by the treaty of Westphalia, 1648, when the fortifications were razed. There are three gates, many narrow streets and old houses, with good walks on the Champ de Mars, and in the ancient pepinière, as well as in the orangery, and the cemetery of Horburg (2 kil off). It is watered by the branches of the river and the canals of the Fecht.

The Minster, built 1363, is a large Gothic building, with a tower about 300 (?) feet high, and an altarpiece on wood, by Schön. Its tower commands a view of above 8.0 places in Alsace and Baden, &c. The Jesuit church was built, 1750; the fine nave of

Herrlisheim (12 mile). A modern château on the site of the old castle-once a nest of robbers. The ancient church of Gueberschiwihr is seen beyond this station. It has a Norman tower with penthouse roof.

Rouffach (4 miles), on the Lauch, with an old Gothic church, and remains of Isenbourg castle, formerly a seat of the Merovingian kings. Marshal Lefebvre was born here. At Judenfeld many Jews were executed; and they say that no Jew will live there to this day. Pop., 3,630. Coach to Soultzmatt.

Merxheim (3 miles), to the south-west of which is Ballon de Guebwiller, the highest of the Vosges range (4,700 above the level of the sea). Then

Basle, in SWITZERLAND (see Hand-book of Swit zerland.)

(a) From Lutterbach, as above, a branch railway goes off through

Cernay (4 miles), a sweet spot (pop., 4,000), near the sterile tract of Ochsenfeld, to

Thann (3 miles), a town of 5,960 cotton printers, &c., on the Thur, at the entrance of St. Amarin's valley, under one of the Vosges hills, which has It contains remains of Engelbourg castle on it.

Wittelsheim (3 miles). Lutterbach (4 miles), where the branch to several ancient houses, and St. Thibault's fine cathedral-like church, with a sculptured doorway, and a Thann turns off, as below. steeple 328 feet high, built 1516. Vin de Rang is produced here.

route through Belfort, Troyes, &c., see Route 62). Epernay to Rheims, Mezieres, and Belgium.

Distance by rail, 73 miles. Four trains daily; mail, 4 hours. This is one of the Ardennes Com pany's lines.

Epernay stat. on Paris and Strasbourg line, as in Route 54. Leaving this, the line crosses the Marne on a four-arched bridge, and is still further continued on two other bridges or archways (to save it from the inundations of the river) and on two skew bridges over the canal, to

Ai or Ay (2 miles), where the best mousseux wines are grown. Pcp. 3,300. Marcuil is the seat of the Marquis de Montebello. At

Avenay (2 miles), is the church of an ancient The line, after abbey, founded in the 7th cent. winding among forests and hills, passes a long tunnel of nearly 2 miles, to

Rilly-la-Montagne (7 miles) and its old church, at the foot of a hill. Then 7 miles further,

Hugh Capet's rival, Charles of Lorraine, 900; besieged by Edward III, of England, 1359, and captured, 1421, by the English, who were, at length, driven out by the Maid of Orleans; and Charles VII. crowned here, as were all the French sovereigns from Philippe Auguste down to Charles X. (except Henry IV. and Louis XVIII). It was repeatedly taken and retaken in 1814.

Parts of the Gothic walls with their turrets still remain; the streets are wide, and most of the houses one story high. Of fourteen open places, the largest is Place Royale, built 1756, which has Cartellier's bronze copy of Pigalle's Louis XV., (who greatly improved this old city), and the ancient Hôtel des Fermes. Place Godînot takes its name from a canon of the last century, who built a château d'eau for supplying water, now furnished by a new reservoir (by Cordier, 1843), in Place de la Tour-du-Puits. An old fountain, by Coustou, the sculptor, stands in Place St. Nicaise, where a very old church stood, till destroyed at the Revolution. One gate, called the Porte de Vesle, an iron arch, leads out to the Grand Cours, a well planted walk by the river, as far as Porte de Laon. Close to the latter (built in the wall), is the Porte de Mars, a genuine Roman relic. It was a triumphal arch, built by Agrippa, in honour of Cæsar Augustus, with three openings in it, and eight Corinthian columns, all much worn. An amphitheatre may be traced at the Mont d'Arènes near it. But its finest ornament is the noble Gothic

Cathedral, covered with a multitude of figures and ornaments, and built, for the most part, 1212-42, by Robert de Coucy, on the site of one founded as early as 360-400. The transept (164 feet long) was rebuilt after a fire in 1491. Length, 467 feet; breadth, 98 feet; height, 118 feet. The richly beautiful front has a triple portal (the middle one being 39 feet wide), a large stained rose window, bas-reliefs of the Passion, the Judgment, Crowning of the Virgin, David and Goliah, Baptism of Clovis, and from 530 to 550 statues of various sizes, in rows, besides a row of 35 niched prelates near the top; above which rise the two towers, made of open pillars and windows, and ending in a heap of little turrets, instead of the spires which they were designed to carry. One tower (the south), a little shorter than the other, was not finished till 1480, and has the bells of a clock as old as 1570, with moving figures, &c. Going in, you see about 90 niched statues inside the doors; the windows are richly stained with figures of apostles, kings, &c. In the nave (which had a painted ceiling of lilies, on a blue ground, when Charles X. was crowned,) is the very curious marble tomb of Jovinus, the Roman consul, carved over with a lion hunt, and brought

from St. Nicaise's church, “An. VIII. de la Repub lique," or 1800. Nine chapels surround the choir, which has a rich altar, the canopy of St. Nicaise's church, a large organ, 64 feet high, and Poussin's painting of the Israelites gathering Manna, wita others by Titian and Tintoretto.

The church of St. Remi, or Remigius, was built 1041-60, as part of Archbishop Turpin's Benedictine abbey, being older than the cathedral, and the place where the early kings were consecrated. It is a mixture of Norman and pointed Gothic in the style, and 361 feet long, with a plain front, having five portals and a rose window, between two slender towers with slated spires. It contains a modern copy of the tomb of St. Remi, ornamented by marble life-size statues of the twelve premier peers of France (the Count of Champagne and the archbishop are two), saved from an older tomb. The pavement is done with mosaic figures from the Bible; and 10 pieces of tapestry (the life of St. Remi) line the walls. Several kings and bishops were buried in this church, which has lately been restored. Here the procession of the herring used to take place on Holy Wednesday. Each canon trailed a herring after him, and it was his business to tread on the one belonging to the man before him, while he did his best to prevent his own being trodden on by the next following.

The Gothic churches of St. Andrew and St. Thomas are both modern.

The Hôtel de Ville (which a new street joins to Place Impériale), begun 1627, and enlarged 1825, consists of a centre and wings (one new), 200 feet long, orna mented with 68 pilasters, and bas-reliefs (at the middle) of Louis XIII. Here are placed the cartulaire. or collection of archives; the bibliothèque or library of 32,000 vols., besides 1,500 MSS. and autographs; and a museum of pictures. At the archbishop's palace is a collection of portraits of kings and prelates. A new Doric Palais de Justice was built, 1845, on the site of the Hôtel Dieu; a new covered market, 1840; and an abattoir, or slaughter-house, 1838. Rheims has a college, priests' seminary, theatre, public baths, botanic garden, chamber of commerce, &c.

A few old buildings are left, as, the Hôtel des Comtes de Champagne, in Rue du Tambour, Hôtel de Joyeuse, near the Hôtel de Ville, Hôtel de Chevreuse, in Rue des Gueux, and the Maison Rose Inn (near the cathedral), on which you read, "In the year 1429, at the coronation of Charles VII., in this inn, then called the Zebra, the father and mother of Jeanne d'Arc were lodged at the cost of the city authorities." At the English college for priests here, the Rheims version of the New Testament was published, 1582. In the old house of Long Vétro, in kus