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Roman. Beyond this is the Romanesque chapel of Bonnieux.

(C.) To Pont du Gard. About 13 miles west of Avignon is

PONT DU GARD, a noble Roman remain, being part of the great aqueduct (17 miles long) which carried the waters of the Azure to Nimes; and looking like a screen across the valley. It is a mass, 640 feet long and 138 high, of three rows of arches, one over the other-the lowest, a row of six arches; the next, eleven of the same size; the third, twenty-five small arches, having the water way above them, where it ran 6 feet wide and deep. It was used as a road before a separate bridge was built, 1747, close to the bottom of it. Being half-way between Avignon and Nismes, it is common for pic-nic parties from both towns to meet here to pass the day.]

From Avignon, the Marseilles line crosses a plain on an embankment high enough to escape the inundations of the Rhône, and the Durance, a brawling changeable stream, here traversed by a handsome viaduct constructed by M. Didion, 1,794 feet long, on twenty-one arches of 66 feet span, resting on piles. The suspension bridge for the road, and the castles of Barbentane and Château-Renard, are in view.

Barbentane (33 miles), at the foot of the rock of Montagnette, has a castle of the 12th cent. built by Archbishop Rostand, of Arles. We are now in department Bouches-du-Rhône, part of Provence. Pass Rognonas, to

Graveson (3 miles), near Cadillan,

Tarascon (5 miles), Here the line to Nismes, Montpellier, and Cette, turns off (Route 30), crossing the river, near the suspension bridge, to Beaucaire. Tarascon is an old fortified town, of 11,515 pop., having a fine ruined Castle (Château du Roi René), a square machicolated pile of the 15th cent. with two round towers, on a rock above the Rhône. St. Martha's church, of the 14th cent. (the portal is Romanesque, 1187), contains seventeen curious paintings of the Saint's life, by Vien. At St. Jacques' is a picture by Vanloo. There are also a palais de justice, Hôtel de Ville, library, theatre, ship-yard, &c. The Rue des Halles, and its arcades, are worth notice. Trade in silks, wine, oil, eaux-de-vie. Hotel.-Des Empereurs. Coaches to St. Remy, Aix, &c.

(ST. REMY (13 kil. east), in a fine spot, on the Réal canal, has Roman remains about fifty feet asunder; one, being part of a triumphal arch the other, a mausoleum of beautiful design.]

Segonnaux (4 miles). The country is flat and uninteresting, to

ARLES (6 miles). HOTELS.-Forum; Du Nord,

Pop. 22,790.

This town, remarkable for its Roman remains and its beautiful women, is a sous-préfecture, in a marshy but cultivated spot, at the head of the delta of the Rhône, about 24 miles from the Mediterranean, to which a canal runs down as far as Port de Bouc.

OBJECTS OF NOTICE.-Cathedral-ObeliskRoman Amphitheatre-Theatre - Aqueduct, &c.Alyscamps Cemetery.

It was the Roman Aralata, a port of great trade, which Constantine improved and called Constantina. It fell to the Goths, and after Charlemagne's time was the head of a kingdom (including Provence, Dauphiny, and Savoy), under Bozon and his four successors; then became subject to the Emperors of Germany, and was given up to France in the time of Charles VI.

Arles stands on a rock; its streets are irregular and narrow; a bridge of boats leads to Trinqueville, which Constantine founded. Place Plan de la Cour is shaded with trees. In Place Royale is the Hôtel de Ville, built by Mansard, in a rich Corinthian style.

St. Trophime's Cathedral, originally begun 626, by St. Virgilius, has a large and highly decorated portal of the 12th cent., with columns, niches, grotesque sculptures, a Romanesque tower, and a fine cloister, half Romanesque and half Gothic, adjoining the old palace of the Archbishop, with an ancient Obelisk in the middle of it. This is a single block of plain granite, 50 feet long, and was brought here by the Romans, but remained on the ground till set up, in 1676, in honour of Louis XIV., with a pedestal and lions, and a globe and sun, for an apex, added to it, making the total height 65 feet.

The Roman Amphitheatre is in pretty good condition. It is an oval, 338 feet by 460, in three stages, of about sixty arches each, chiefly in the composite style. It had four principal entrances, with upwards of forty rows of seats, and would hold above 2,500 persons. Two later towers have been built on it. The interior has been cleared out, and a light railing erected round it, to preserve it from injury. Here a real bull-fight was performed in 1853, by artists from Spain. Near it and the old house of La Miséricorde, are some arches of a Roman Theatre, now called the Tower of Roland, with two columns of breccia marble on the site of the stage, remains of seats, and a gate, not far off. In Place St. Lucien, or du Forum, are two granite pillars of Temple of Minerva, and some

other fragments, supposed to be of the Pantheon. ↑ as best they may, under their hooded cloaks. All Ruins of an aqueduct are also seen. The Tour de la nature seems shrivelled and dried up under the evil Trouille, near the old house of the Grand Prior of influence. The Rhône is blown into white-crested Malta, was built, they say, by Constantine. In some little waves. And all this may very likely continue respects Arles has more of the appearance of a de- for the next week, or month, perhaps." cayed Roman town than any other place in France. St. Anne's old church, now the Museum, contains a good collection of bas-reliefs, busts, altars, gravestones, of the times of the Lower Empire (from Elyscamps), a famous head of Diana, &c. The public library numbers 12,000 volumes. There is a school of navigation, a college, &c. Good walks on the Lice (i.e., Lists) promenade, by the Graponne canal.

Nôtre Dame de Grace church, with its eight-sided steeple, stands in the old Roman Cemetery, called Alyscamps, or Eliscamp (Campus Elysius), where many ancient gravestones remain, on a hill outside the town, now occupied by railway workshops. The Pagan tombs are marked "D. M." (for "Diis manibus"); the Christian, by the cross. On another hill are the ruined church (partly as old as the 10th cent.) and cloister, the machicolated tower (built 1369), 85 feet high, and St. Avix, or Crucifix, chapel (in shape of a Greek cross, built 1019), all belonging to the abbey of Mont Majeur. On the Montagne des Cordes are traces of a Celtic town. Baux is a deserted town, with several houses cut out of the rock, and an old castle. The Emperor Constantine's son was born here. Manufactures of silk, soap, brandy, good sausages, and a trade in corn, wine, oil, manna, salt, wool, cattle, horses, &c. Conveyances: by coach to Aix, Salong, &c.; steamer to Marseilles.

The Camargue, or delta of the Rhône, below Arles, is a salt marsh, full of lakes, where the pelican, flamingo, and beaver breed, and vast numbers of horses and cattle, with as many as 150,000 sheep, are pastured. In the hot season the sheep are driven up the hills, with a file of goats at their head. One part of the Camargue, called the Crau, is a desolate flinty plain, across which the mistral blows with terrible keenness. Thero used to be a saying, that the Durance, the parliament, and the mistral, were the three curses of Provence. "It is difficult to give," says Trollope, "an adequate idea of the detestableness of the climate under the influence of this scourge. The same sun is shining in the same bright blue sky, but the temperature is glacial. The sun is there only to glare and dazzle, and seems to have no more power for warmth than a farthing candle against the boisterous blast which chills the very marrow in one's bones. The whole air is so full of dust that it is impossible to stir out without getting the mouth and nostrils filled with it. The inhabitants hurry through the bleak streets, cowering,

Leaving Arles, by the Alyscamps workshops, one of which is 490 feet diameter, we cross the plain by a viaduct of 2,526 feet, on 31 arches. The arches of the Craponne canal (named after its constructor, in the 16th cent.) are seen. It is used for irrigating the arid soil.

Raphele (4 miles), with the very old Castle of Baux, on the left.

St. Martin (5) miles).

Entressens (7 miles), in the midst of the desert. Miramas (3 miles), and its old castle. The great Marseilles aqueduct is seen now and then.

St. Chamas (3 miles), a small port on the étang de Berre Touloubre, having a genuine Roman bridge, called Pont Julien, of one arch, 70 feet long (besides the cross arches at each end). There is a large government powder-factory, and an old church, on a ridge which divides the town into two parts, connected by a tunnel. Pop., 2,640.

Here the hills appear again.

The uneven valley of the Touloubre is traversed by a picturesque viaduct, 1,263 feet long, and at a height varying from 26 feet to 82 feet. It rests on 49 Gothic arches, formed by interlaced semicircles, with the solid mass above each pier hollowed out for the sake of lightness. Cross the Arc, to

Berre (8 miles) in a pleasant but marshy spot, on the lagoon, or Étang de Berre, with a good trade in oil, almonds, figs. Pop. 1,880. At the mouth of the lake is the fishing port of MARTIGUES, with a pop. of 7,500.

Another viaduct on 6 arches, to

Rognac (3 miles), in a fertile plain, near the same lagoon.

Here the branch line to Aix turns off (Route 27.) The main line passes over the Grande Beaume and Baon viaducts to the hill of

Vitrolles (33 miles). There is a hermitage on the site of an old castle, at top, which gives an extensive prospect. Several cuttings, and the Cadière viaduct on 7 arches, bring us to

Pas-de-Lanciers (2 miles). Another deep cutting, leads to the tunnel of La Nerthe, the greatest work of this kind in France, exceeding Blaisy tunnel by 1,640 feet. It is 33 feet high, and 15,150 feet, or nearly 3 miles, long; and ventilated by 22 shafts, one of which is 607 feet deep. It cost 10 million francs. Soon after the Mediterranean appears, with the splendid panorama which surrounds Marseilles.

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L'Estaque (5 miles), near the Roman pyramid of Penelle, is followed by the viaducts of Riaux (6 arches) and Château-Follet (5 Gothic arches), a deep cutting, an embankment 56 feet high, protected from the sea by a solid wall, another tunnel (St. Louis) of 1,510 feet, and a viaduct across the pretty valley of Ayglades, and at length the large and handsome débarcadère, near the cemetery, in Boulevard D'Orléans, 6 miles from L'Estaque, commanding a fine view of the city and the Mediterranean.

MARSEILLES, or Marseille, 218 miles from Lyons, 531 from Paris, 770 miles from Calais, about 810 miles from London.

HOTELS.-Grand Hotel du Louvre.-A very fine new hotel, just opened, in a good situation, and affording extensive accommodation.

Grand Hotel Noailles, Rue Noailles, Canebière Prolongée.-A large and first-rate hotel, combining superior accommodation with moderate charges. Grand Hotel de Marseilles.-Good and well situated, having a view of the celebrated allées of Mulham, the Port, and Canebière.

Hotel Victoria et des Bains de Mer au Prado. Good house; very recommendable in every respect; its situation is one of the most salubrious and picturesque.

Grand Hotel de l'Univers et de Castille.

Hotel de Angleterre, Place Royale; Empereurs, Rue Canebière; Luxembourg, 25, Rue St. Ferreol; De Genes, 8, Quai du Port; Europe, 9, Rue Pavillon; Louvre, 16, Rue Canebière; Du Frince, 12, Place Royale; Du Nord, 8, Rue Thibuneau; Orleans, 19, Rue Vacon; Richelieu, 50, Rue Vacon; Italie, 7, Quai Napoleon; Ambassadeurs, 8, Rue Beameau. A cup of excellent coffee or chocolate, at the Cafés,

60 or 75 centimes.

Omnibuses run to all parts of the city from the station.

Pop., 195,140.

English Consul, Edward W. Mark, Esq.
English service at the church, Rue Silvabelle, No.
100, by the Rev. M. J. Mayers, at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.
Rev. MM. H. and J. Monod, and M. Beziés are
French Protestant pastors.

and 450 miles from Algiers, the settlement of which
has greatly stimulated its prosperity. It is the oldest
place in France, or in western Europe, having been
founded as far back as 600 B. C., by Greek settlers
from Phocæa, under their leader Euxenus, who called
it Massalia, or Massillia. From hence they also co-
lonised Nicea (Nice), Antipolis (Antibes), Agatha
(Agde), and other little republics; while the mother
city increased in power and fame, in spite of the
jealousy of Athens and the Carthaginians. It was
taken by Hannibal, punished by Cæsar for siding with
Pompey, ravaged by the Visigoths (A.D. 483), the
Burgundians, Ostrogoths (588), the Saracens (735), and
at length came to the Counts of Provence, 1257.
Alphonso of Arragon sacked it, 1421, and held it for
two years, but it revived under le bon roi, René of
Anjou, who died here, 1480. In his time it was noted
for its soap and glassworks, its furs and hides.
Under Louis XI. it became part of France; the
Duke of Guise occupied it for Henry IV.; Louis
XIV. entered it through a breach in the walls, in
token of his displeasure for its resistance to him, and
curtailed its political rights. It was ravaged by the
plague 1530, and again by the Great Plague of 1720-21,
when 40,000 or 50,000 out of 90,000 were carried off,
and Bishop Belzunce, Chevalier Rose, and others,
exerted themselves so admirably. At the Revolution
it supported the Girondist party with great fervour,
and was, therefore, visited with the bloody vengeance
of the Terrorists, who sent Fréron and Barras here,
to purge the city. The famous Marseillaise song, to
which it gives name, was composed at Strasbourg, by
Rouget de l'Isle, and first sung here at a banquet
given to the Deputy, Barbaroux.

As seen from Viste hill, for example, on the Aix road, Marseilles appears most happily placed in a picturesque and convenient spot at the bottom of a natural inlet, which opens right out to the Mediterranean; limestone hills rising gradually all round, to a height of 550 feet in some parts, with a clear and

Sea Baths, on Bassin d' Arenc, 1 fr., including beautiful sky overhead. Thousands of bastides (as omnibus; lodgings, 6 to 7 fr. per day.

Post Office, in Rue Jeune Anarcharsis. Time from London, about 34 hours. Fares:-1st class, £6 19s. 3d.; 2nd, £5 38.

CHIEF OBJECTS OF NOTICE-Harbour-Rue de Cannebiére-Hôtel de Ville- Consigne-Triumphal Arch-Cathedral-Museum and Gallery.

This large city is the capital of department Bouches du Rhône (which was part of Provence), head-quarters of a military division, seat of a bishopric, &c., a consulate, and the chief port and packet-station in the Mediterranean. It stands about 27 miles east of the (delta, or mouths of the Rhone, in the Golfe du Lion 8. e. of the Lion-not Lyons, as it is usually called),

they call the country seats here) dot the sides of this amphitheatre, and numerous gardens of vines and olives are dispersed about; but the soil being white" and dry, it is excessively hot in summer; then, gnats and mosquitoes bite, the keen north-west mistral blows, and perhaps a scorpion may be found in one's bed. The town surrounds the harbour like a horseshoe; the oldest part, with its narrow dirty streets, being on the north side, while the modern and better built quarters are on the east and south. The Rue de Cannebière and Allées de Meilhan (running nearly east and west), the most bustling and frequented thorough fare in Marseilles, nearly mark the line of division,

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