LETTER XXIII. EDINBURGH CASTLE-REMINISCENCES OF ALLAN RAMSAY AND ROBERT BURNS-PROFESSOR OF NATURAL HISTORY-NATIONAL PRISON-CEMETERIES-UNIVERSITY-LIBRARY-BOTANIC GARDEN-MARKET GRAY FRIARS CHURCH-LIBRARIES OF THE ADVOCATES AND WRI- TERS TO THE SIGNET-OLD VISIT TO THE EDITOR OF THE EDINBURGH REVIEW. September, 1825. OUR next visit was to the Castle, founded upon a rock, the western face of which is upwards of two hundred feet above the beautiful green plain which skirts its base. A richer prospect can scarcely be conceived, than was presented at evening from the battlements of this fortress. The eye takes in a wide circle, crowded with interesting objects both of nature and of art. Far below the parapet, the spectator looks down upon the most luxuriant fields on one side, and the turreted city on the other. The castle occupies about six acres of ground, and from its commanding situation possesses great strength. Cromwell of course once laid siege to it; but its military history is not peculiar or important. It is at present garrisoned by a regiment or two, who lead an inactive as well as inglorious life, finding sufficient time for quaffing ale, which may be obtained in several of the apartments, without the trouble of making a sortie from the bulwark. The keeper took us into a small room, artificially lighted, to see the regalia of the former kings of Scotland, constituting nearly all of royalty which has been left to the nation. These insignia, though few in collection of gewgaws in the number, transcend in interest a similar tower of London. Here was seen the crown of gold, studded with gems, made 511 years ago, for Robert Bruce, and worn by his successors, including Mary Stewart, down to Charles II. Here too we enjoyed the signal privilege of handling and examining minutely the sacred ermine, used for making the massive diadem press less heavily upon the brow. The collection also contains the sceptre and the rod of office, together with a sword five feet in length, presented by Pope Julius II. They are all splendid—all glittering with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. But where are the monarchs who once wore them?mingling with the same dust as the humblest of their subjects! Our guide led us to a little room, not more than eight feet by ten, in the south-eastern corner of the castle, which was occupied by Mary, and in which her son, James I. of England was born. It is tastefully finish ed, and but just large enough for a bed. From a solitary window in front, the infant monarch was let down a precipice of two hundred feet, in a basket. Such were the romantic adventures of that age. In the course of this afternoon, we visited the house which Allan Ramsay, the celebrated Scotch poet, built, and lived to occupy many years. It is a curious octagonal structure, two stories high, seated on the brow of the central hill, not far from the castle, with an extensive garden looking down into North Lock, between the old and new town. The mansion has been so fortunate as to find a literary successor, and is now inhabited by Mr. Baird, Principal of the University. Some pains were taken to find the house which Hume the historian occupied; and likewise the one, in St. James' Court, where Boswell, the biographer of Johnson, lived, and for some days entertained the Doctor, when on his way to the Hebrides. One of the highest houses in the city was ascended by a dozen flights of steps, to make inquiries of a Mr. Simpson, an elderly gentleman, who knew Boswell, and obligingly put us upon the right track. Besides having our literary curiosity gratified, by an examination of the very rooms which the moralist and his biographer had consecrated, we enjoyed an opportunity of learning the construction of the houses in the old part of Edinburgh, which was formerly the head quarters of fashion. They are eight, ten, or even twelve stories high, each of which, called a flat, is inhabited by one or more families. You may frequently see lawyers, physicians, mechanics and milliners issuing from the same tenement, although they are perhaps wholly unknown to one another. The highest house in the town, said to have been fourteen stories, was burnt down last winter. A curious term is made use of by the Scotch, in the leases of buildings and lands. Notices were seen posted up in various places of" lots to feu." I believe the word expresses a peculiar kind of tenure, and is probably the root of the epithet feudal. As a proper sequel to our researches for the residence of Ramsay, Hume, Boswell, and Johnson, we hunted up a small tavern in Liberton Wynd, which was a favourite resort of the poet Burns, where he used to meet his boon companions, sip Johnny Dowie's ale, and talk away the night. Our hostess showed us into the very room in which these nocturnal sessions of kindred spirits were held. The name of the bard is inscribed on the door, and his bust in bronze adorns the interior of the room, which is not more than five feet by ten, without a window. There is a tiny fire-place in one corner, which would be scarcely large enough for the cookery of Queen Mab. An oaken table is placed in the centre, with fixtures around the wall, on which the "favoured and enlightened few" were wont to sit and hold high colloquies. The slab of oak was alternately used as a festive board, and a table on which Burns wrote several of his finest pieces-among others, his address to Edinburgh, and his dedication "to the noblemen and gentlemen of the Caledonian Hunt," an extract from which is inscribed on his tomb. He also here wrote some humourous lines, addressed to "Johnnie Dowie," who kept the inn for fifty years. One of the party used to sing them for the amusement of mine host. The original of the verses was shown to us, as also the letter enclosing them. A copy was taken by one of our party. Although there is nothing very inviting in the appearance of the tavern, curiosity prompted us to dine on a bowl of barley broth, and a mutton chop, with a glass of ale, served up on the old oaken table. The landlord, not being able to appreciate our motives, in vain attempted to persuade us to go to a larger and better room. After dinner, at the request of our hostess, the widow of Johnnie Dowie, who has retired on a handsome income, and lives at the next door, came to our room, and related many anecdotes of the poet and his companions; whom she remembers perfectly well. They were accustomed to sit to a late hour, and sing over their ale, the songs which Burns had composed. She is now at the age of 75, and has frequently seen David Hume, as well as other great men of the Scottish metropolis. She recollects the day when there was not a single house in the new part of Edinburgh, which is now the largest and finest section of the town. A letter of introduction from a friend in New-York, had secured an invitation to sup, at 10 o'clock, with the Professor of Natural History in the University. He lives in one of the splendid houses which form the double crescent or amphitheatre around the Royal Circus, in the new part of Edinburgh. Nothing can exceed in neatness and elegance the buildings about this area. The Professor has a beautiful suite of rooms, which were filled with ladies and gentlemen. Two of the former were at the piano, playing and singing one of the sweet songs of Caledonia, with a group of listeners gathered round them. The delicacy of speaking of a private party should perhaps prevent me from saying in this place, that the ladies of Scotland are often handsome, uniformly intelligent, and always agreeable, manifesting less fondness for show, and more simplicity of manners, than their southern neighbours. One of the sisters of the Professor did the honours of the drawingroom. It was a mixed party, many of whom were from distant parts of Scotland, and had been called together by that spirit of hospitality, for which the country is so distinguished, and which was well exemplified in the sociability and festivity of the evening. A genteel, pleasant young lady from the Orkneys was present; and a Colonel from the Highlands gave a favourable specimen of the social virtues and agreeable manners of his clan. Among the most distinguished of the company was the Professor of Mathematics in the University, who has done much in his department, and by unequivocal proofs of his talent, earned the high reputation which he enjoys. But he brings none of the dust of the closet into society, and the easy flow of his conversation and pleasantry, is far from being measured with the precision of angles. I was charmed to see with what affability science could bend to beauty; and to hear with what freedom and naivete a group of young ladies importuned him, to appoint a night, when they might peep at the moon, or Venus, through his telescope. He conversed much about our country, and seemed willing to accord to distinguished individuals the fame they have acquired. Among other things, he spoke of a Professor of the same name as himself, and the author of a work on the same subject, which had employed his pen, who had been severely reviewed in Silliman's Journal. At first he supposed his own treatise had been assailed by a transatlantic critic; but afterwards ascertained, that by a curious coincidence of names, titles and publications, the article in the Journal did not mean him. The Professor of Natural History, who has a good deal of reputato lose, and is careful not to risk it by injudicious publications, is at present placed in much the same predicament. A namesake of his has recently published a work, of which the Professor is not ambitious to be considered the author, but which, in the confusion of names, is ascribed to his pen. With some his eminence will probably give currency to the book, and his friends are fond of rallying him with inquiries, as to its sale and success. At about 12 o'clock, both the ladies and gentlemen were promiscuously seated round several tables, and a cold supper, with various kinds of fruit, was served up in handsome style. Wine and punch circulated briskly. The whiskey, water and sugar were sent round unmingled, and each tempered his glass to his own taste. An hour passed very pleasantly at the table, when judging from my own feelings, the company retired highly gratified with the generous hospitality of the board, and the social enjoyments of the evening. The next morning we visited the National Prison, which is situated on the brow of Calton Hill, a few rods from Waterloo Place. It has a magnificent exterior, which viewed in connexion with the Bridewell and the Governor's residence adjoining it, crowned with turrets, resembles a castle, and was actually taken for one, as it was passed in our entrance into Edinburgh. The interior is constructed on the plan of the benevolent Howard, and its comforts would have been gratifying to the feelings of that eminent philanthropist. Its apartments are spacious, clean, and dry. In the rear are extensive walks, where the prisoners find ample space for exercise, breathe a pure air, and enjoy the cheerful beams of the sun. The keeper conducted us through the wards, and designated the most remarkable prisoners. One of the females had been banished, her term of exile expired, she returned to her country, and was now going the rounds a second time. There was an old man in chains, with a wild and piercing eye, who was constantly talking to himself in incoherent language. He had been imprisoned twenty-nine years for murder, and is doomed to drag out the remainder of his life in this wretched condition. From the prison we went to the next door, and examined the Bridewell for the city and county, to which convicts cannot be sentenced for more than two years. It is under the superintendence of the same officer as the prison. Both buildings are of stone, four stories high, and richly finished. The construction of the Bridewell is peculiar. A semicircular tower rises in the centre, through which there are narrow openings, commanding a full view of all the cells of the convicts, ranged in a concentric semicircle. In front are grates and blinds, which prevent the tenants from seeing one another, although their movements may be watched from the observatory in the centre. It is a kind of panorama, where all sorts of mechanical operations are going on. Some are spinning, some weaving, and others sewing, while the males are employed at their several trades. An artist would here find a good subject for a picture. A lassie at her wheel was solacing her labour by a sweet Highland air. Others of a graver turn were reading the bible, a copy of which is appropriated to the use of every convict, and was found lying upon the pillows of the neat and comfortable beds. In the basement, a tread-mill was seen in motion. Its power is entirely wasted. Machinery was once attached to it; but on experiment, it was found to be unprofitable, and has been given up. The construction and police of this penitentiary exceed any thing of the kind that I have seen in Europe. Our next call was at the cemetery adjoining the Bridewell, chiefly for the purpose of visiting the tomb of the historian Hume. The monuments in this burying-ground, as well as in another, on the declivity looking towards Holy-Rood, are upon a large scale, some of them |