took refuge and assumed the habit of a monk, preferring the solitude of a cloister to a throne and the regalia of power. In 1220, the Archbishop of Dublin quenched the inextinguishable fire, (if a bull may be allowed,) which the vestal had kept burning for many ages. The sacred flame was, however, rekindled, and continued to burn till the suppression of monasteries.

Large

The Curragh of Kildare is now a common, across which the road passes. It is one of the most extensive and beautiful in the world, containing about five thousand acres. It is perfectly level and smooth, covered with little tufts of furze, and the green sod, closely fed by thousands of sheep which make it their pasture. flocks of crows and magpies were seen walking over it, some of them within a few yards of the coach. The tameness of these birds surprised me, until I learned the cause. In the turbulent times, now in some degree gone by in Ireland, fire-arms of every description were taken out of the hands of the people; and the crows have gradually become so domestic, as to hover round the cabins, and tear fields of potatoes with impunity.

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Kildare common is now a race ground, said to be the best turf course in Europe. A multitude of people were assembled upon it, and we saw a kind of scrub-race at a distance. Several of the English officers were out from Dublin, to participate in the sports of the turf, which are certainly more pleasant than fighting the Burmese. One of the fancy overtook the coach, and gave us an account of the momentous events of the day, in the true cockney style. On the eastern border of the common are numerous entrenchments, or tumuli. They are denominated in the Irish language Forranta Foras, or ancient graves, where the first inhabitants of the country were buried. Near Kildare is the ancient town of Naas, once the seat of the kings of Leinster, and of the Irish parliament.. It is full of ruins. A little beyond the town are the remains of a castle begun but never finished, by the unfortunate Earl of Strafford, whose barbarous execution is one of the greatest blots on the page of English history. It is an immense pile, commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. At Naas are handsome modern barracks, at present occupied by one or two regiments. Indeed, in every town along the road, in the streets and market places of the cities, troops are seen parading with a useless formality-useless certainly at present, as the White Boys have in great measure disappeared, and the people are tranquil. Several spots were however pointed out to us, where English officers fell, or were murdered in this inglorious species of warfare. The traces of hostility between the English and Irish are still visible.

The former are viewed in the light of oppressors; the latter are considered rebellious and despicable. It will be long, very long, before these feelings, which have been cherished for ages, will be entirely obliterated among the lower classes.

The suburbs of Dublin, in the approach from Limerick, are extremely picturesque and beautiful. On the right, is a distant range of high hills extending along the coast. The grounds are fertile, and in a high state of cultivation, with numerous seats of noblemen and wealthy individuals belonging to the city. Just before entering the town, we crossed a stone bridge over the Grand Canal. Our entrance was at twilight. A ride through several of the principal streets, bordered by a great number of public buildings and other magnificent edifices, including the residence of the Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland and the University, gave us a very favourable impression of the architectural grandeur and taste of this city, which is the second in point of magnitude in the United Kingdom. Subsequent observation confirmed the opinion, which was derived from a first glance. Sackville-street, opening in a northern direction from the bridge of the Liffey, is a spacious and splendid avenue, lined with ranges of lofty structures, and adorned with a stately monument in memory of Lord Nelson. The post-office is one of the largest and most commodious establishments of the kind I have ever seen. In general, the buildings are constructed of substantial materials, and exhibit a high degree of neatness and elegance. Good accommodations were found at the Royal Hibernian Hotel. As our arrival was on Saturday evening, no opportunity was afforded of delivering our letters the next day; and as we were in great haste to reach Liverpool, it was concluded to take the first packet, reserving our visit to this place till our return from the north of Ireland.*

Our view of the south of Ireland, both town and country, has been as full and perfect, as could well have been accomplished in the same time. The weather has been delightfully pleasant, enabling us to be abroad every day; and we have been constantly upon the alert with all the inquisitiveness of Yankees. Although we were entire strangers, it has been our good fortune to meet with many intelligent and communicative persons, who have manifested towards us

* Subsequent events compelled us to defer a visit to Belfast and the Giant's Causeway, till our return from the Continent; and the consequence was, that we did not go at all. Our stay, at Dublin, therefore, was limited to less than two days, one of which was Sunday, affording no opportunity of examining the institutions or other interesting objects in this beautiful city.

their characteristic hospitality and kindness. An instance of this description occurred at Limerick. On making some inquiries of one of the clerks of the courts respecting the town, he at once locked his office and devoted an hour to our service, in conducting us to the public places and in pointing out what was most worthy of observation.

The country was undoubtedly seen under the most favourable circumstances. So fine a season has not been known for many years; and the Emerald Isle is now in the full bloom of summer, with the prospect of abundant harvests. Provisions of all kinds are plenty, and the ordinary sufferings of the lower classes are comparatively light. There is, however, at present much wretchedness, which nothing but some radical changes in the structure of society can remove. At Dublin we read the report in the House of Lords, on the state of Ireland. The ministerial papers denominate it an able document, and the King thanks the committee in his speech. But the report appears to be a mere collusion, calculated to lull the people into a state of quietude, and to cherish hope long deferred, yet always disappointed. It is here viewed in that light; and the catholics have already held meetings preparatory to another political campaign. They are confident of ultimate success. Their opponents accuse them of a wish to revolutionize the Island, and dissolve the union; but this they stoutly deny, contending that they are loyal, and ask for nothing beyond the privileges, which other sects enjoy. Seven eighths of the whole population are catholics. The protestants say, that an accession of power and influence would increase the number and render it formidable both to church and state. The result of the controversy, and the destination of Ireland, is a great problem, which remains to be solved.

It is evident that the government entertain serious fears of such an immense physical force, in a starving and discontented condition. Hence the policy of sending so many from the country to Canada. This is a dangerous experiment. The emigrants will by and by look for that freedom and independence abroad, which they could never find at home. To us republicans the policy to be pursued towards Ireland appears perfectly plain. Education should be the great and prime instrument of changing the state of society. Let public schools be established at the expense of the government, and the children be well educated; let houses of industry and penitentiaries be founded; in short, let the great mass of the people be enlightened, and there will be no danger of the world relapsing into popery. 1 cannot but think, that the benevolent efforts of Bible Societies, and

other charities, in England, which seek for objects in remote parts of the earth, might with more philanthropy, and with a better prospect of success, be directed to the lower classes in Ireland, thousands of whom have almost as little claim to civilization, or to the enlightened principles of Christianity, as the Chinese or the islanders of the Pacific Ocean.*

At 6 o'clock in the evening of the 11th we embarked at Dublin on board the steam-packet, for Liverpool. The bustle and confusion incident to our departure, and indeed during the whole passage, presented such scenes, as we had never before witnessed. Our boat was a second ark, containing all sorts of beasts and creeping things. A considerable part of the cargo was taken in, after our arrival at the dock. It consisted, in the first place, of a stratum of horses, something like a hundred in number, occupying the hold. The process of letting them down, struck us as novel. A box sufficiently large to hold a horse is placed upon deck, with a sliding door at each end. The animal is led in, enclosed, and swung down ten or fifteen feet into the hold. A man descends on the moveable stable, to open it and stow away the animal. Above the horses was a stratum of sheep, one hundred and fifty in number, going to the Liverpool market. On the deck were numerous crates of geese, ducks, pigs, and poultry, with all sorts of lumber thrown promiscuously together. To complete the freight, between two and three hundred Irish, consisting of men, women, and children, with their baggage and provisions, were strewed among the rubbish upon the deck of the boat. They were going over to England, with their families, to labour during the harvest. A gentleman on board informed me, that they make three harvests annually-the first in England, the second in Ireland, and the third in Scotland. The difference in the seasons of the three countries is sufficient to give them time to cross and re-cross the channel. Scenes were exhibited at the embarkation and on the voyage, which I sighed for the pencil of a Hogarth to portray. One group in particular arrested our attention. It consisted of a whole family, busband, wife, sons and daughters, seated upon their baggage in a corner of the deck. Their poor neighbours were constantly pouring in, one after another, bringing little presents of cakes, fruits, and other

* It is urged by the protestants of England, that they have instituted schools in Ireland, and laboured in the cause of education; but that it has been found wholly impracticable either to persuade or compel the children of catholic parents, under the influence of the priesthood, to embrace the advantages of instruction freely held out to them.

comforts, shaking hands, shedding a parting tear, and giving the parting kiss, with many benedictions. From the formality of so many long farewells and last words, we concluded they were emigrants bound to America, and taking leave of their friends forever, until we were informed that the separation was only for a few weeks. There were other scenes less tragic, where Matthews might have gleaned new materials for his exhibitions. In the bustle of taking in the freight of horses, sheep, and baggage, one passenger was knocked off the plank into the dock, mantled with a thick scum. Fortunately he was not much encumbered with garments. The crowd upon the wharf cried out, "swim, Pat!"-others, "throw a rope!" The good fellow buffeted it with lusty sinews, looking up wistfully to the spectators, some of whom were laughing and others weeping at the accident. He reached the steps in safety, and shook the wreaths of sea-weed from his brow, with no other loss than that of his sugarloaf hat.

When the boat reached the swell, the confusion deepened. Some were drinking, singing and carousing; others huddled into corners with affright. All sorts of noises were heard, from the gabbling of the geese to the squalling of children. The deck was literally covered, in some spots two or three deep, lying length-wise and crosswise, with the dying and the dead. A part of them had fallen gallantly by the influence of the bottle, which circulated freely, and was taken by the word of mouth," to adopt a phrase suited to the theme. Others met a more unwelcome fate, in sinking gradually, from the motion of the ship. There was a glorious uncertainty to which of these causes the sufferer was a victim. The cabin passengers were separated from the multitude, occupying the after part of the boat, elevated several feet, and presenting a full view of the field before them. Had any serious accident befallen the ship, the loss of hundreds of lives would have been inevitable, as there were but two small boats on board.

The "Town of Liverpool" is a vessel of about three hundred tons; but as unlike our steam-boats in style and accommodations, as Hyperion to a satyr. There is no forward cabin, and the after one is small and inconvenient. The deck, as already mentioned, is lumbered with freight. Almost the only good point about the packet is her machinery, which is safe, and drives her forward at the rate of about ten miles an hour, consuming in that time something more than a ton of coal. Owing to her promiscuous cargo, the air is a villanous compound, and said to resemble that of a Guinea trader. It is impossible to keep her clean, and we suffered more from bilge-water, or