is a paradise on earth, it must be found in the domestic, unsophisticated and innocent delights of such a family, and if unalloyed happiness be the portion of any mortal, it must consist in the luxury of such feelings, and in the practice of such virtues, as are possessed by General La Fayette.*

* In justification of the foregoing sketch, it may not be improper to remark, that my sole object was to present a domestic picture of La Grange. The events in the military and political life of General La Fayette-his character as a soldier, a statesman, and a philanthropist-his public services and private virtues, are so universally known through the medium of books of history, biography, and travels, that I have studiously avoided an allusion to any of these topics, on which nothing new could have been advanced, or presented to my readers in a more acceptable form, than may be found in the writings of others. Such a picture of domestic life as I have attempted to draw, must necessarily be made up of little items and incidents, which in some instances may seem trifling and unfit to meet the public eye. But it is enough for me to know, that a sketch of objects, which I supposed would be interesting to the people of the United States, has not forfeited the friendship of the best of men and the most estimable of families; while it has had the good fortune generally to meet the approbation of the American public.

LETTER XXXIX.

PARIS CONTINUED-PANTHEON-LAW SCHOOL-OBSERVATORY-AMERICANS IN PARIS-STYLE OF FRENCH DINNERS-CHURCH OF ST. SULPICE-SCHOOL OF MEDICINE--ANATOMICAL MUSEUM--NATIONAL INSTITUTE--GREAT MEN-PHILOSOPHICAL, CHEMICAL, AND MEDICAL

LECTURES.

January, 1826.

SEVERAL calls were made at the Pantheon, now the church of St. Genevieve, which presents a noble front, surmounted by a dome little inferior in grandeur, and fully equal in the beauty of its proportions to that of St. Paul's at London. A lofty porch, 112 feet in length, and supported by twenty-two Corinthian columns, each fifty-eight feet in height, and five feet and a half in diameter, form the entrance. The dimensions of the church are 337 feet by 253, in the form of a cross. Long ranges of 130 Corinthian columns support the galleries of the interior; and the dome rests on a rotunda of fifty-two additional pillars, each fifty-four feet in height, the whole forming a specimen of architectural magnificence seldom surpassed. Some innovations have been made upon the simplicity of the dome, by the necessity of giving it a firmer support, and an attempt to conceal the alterations by splendid gildings and paintings. This edifice was designed as a temple dedicated exclusively to the great men of France, where their ashes were to be deposited in a gallery of vaults below, and their names recorded as a testimonial of public gratitude for their services. As the religious edifices of Paris were already sufficiently numerous for the accommodation of all the piety discoverable among the ecclesiastics, and the design of this building was unique, it is to be regretted, that its original character has been changed. The priests have manifested such a hostility to the plan, as to disturb the ashes of the dead, and to remove the remains of Voltaire and Rosseau to an obscure vault.*

* In November, 1826, I paid another visit to this church, in company with the author of the Spy, on the great festival of Toussaint, when the aisles were thronged with votaries, clouds of incense rose from the altars, and the chorus of a thousand voices was reverberated from the dome. It was rather an impressive spectacle; though the Pantheon, both in external grandeur and the splendour of its internal decorations falls infinitely short of St. Peter's at Rome, to which it has by some been likened. All temples made with hands must suffer by a comparison with the glories of the Vatican.

Near the Pantheon stands the College of Law, presenting a plain but majestic porch of the Doric order. The school has seven professors, who lecture on the Roman, Civil, and Commercial Law, together with the Practice of the Courts. Students are required to attend regularly for two years, to obtain a degree of bachelor; three years for a license to practice; and four, to secure a doctorate. The examinations are said to be rigid, and the French lawyers well versed in their profession, which however appears to be much less prominent than with us. The same distinction prevails here as in Scotland, between the attorney and notary, the latter being exclusively employed in conveyancing.

In the afternoon of a bright day we paid a visit to the Observatory, which occupies an eminence near the garden of the Luxembourg. A broad avenue opens in a direct line with the Palace. This lofty structure, which covers a large area, and is built entirely of stone, even to the vaulted roof, without the aid of either wood or iron, stands precisely in a north and south direction, the meridian of Paris passing through the centre. In altitude, it may be said to extend from the lower regions to the skies; for a shaft opens from the top, through all the stories, and thence pierces the crust of earth into the catacombs beneath the city. It is used for measuring the accelerated velocity of falling bodies, as well as for astronomical observations. We climbed to the top of the edifice, and had a charming view of the city and its environs, just at evening. Four lines of telegraphs were in sight-one running over Montmartre to the English Channel; another south, to the Pyrenees and the Peninsula; a third to the north of Europe, by Strasbourg; and a fourth to Italy. The signals changed once in a minute or two, and bulletins from Madrid were passing directly over our heads, like "sightless couriers of the air." Intelligence is communicated with almost the rapidity of lightning. In my opinion, telegraphs might be much more extensively introduced into our country to advantage. The Observatory is furnished with an extensive apparatus, consisting of excellent glasses and instruments of all kinds requisite for making observations with the minutest accuracy. Three astronomers are constantly employed, as sentinels of the heavens, being on the alert, and noting every phenomenon, even to the changes of the wind and weather, whence precise meteorological tables are deduced.

On our return towards home, curiosity prompted us to call and examine a unique establishment, which was nothing less than a hospital for sick dogs. The surgeon, who acted also in the capacity of physician, was very polite, taking us through the wards, and describing the diseases of his numerous patients, some of which were from a dis

tance, attracted by the celebrity of his mode of treatment. Each of them occupies a separate cell, furnished with a couch and vessels for food and drink. The doctor had just been the rounds for the night, dressing wounds and administering medicine. Some of the animals were bundled up in such a way as to present a most fantastic and ludicrous appearance. A Frenchman appears to think almost as much of his dog, as of his wife and children. The animal is the companion of his travels, wherever he may go, and he will "not permit the winds of heaven to visit too roughly" the object of his doting affection, a place for which is often paid for in the interior of a public coach, to the no small annoyance of the other passengers. Dogs are in fact the darling pets, while dumb beasts of a more useful kind are treated in some instances with less humanity.

The delivery of a large package of letters of introduction, had soon after our arrival made us acquainted with a numerous circle of friends, whose hospitality and kindness have greatly contributed to the pleasure as well as the instruction derived from our visit to Paris. There are not less than a hundred of our own countrymen in the city, attracted hither by different objects from all parts of the United States. Several of these belong to the diplomatic corps, consisting of the Minister, his Secretary, the former and present Consuls, together with the Chargé des Affaires at Sweden,* the Consul at the Isle of Wight and his family, and the Secretary of Legation to Madrid, who are passing the winter at Paris. Another class of Americans are residents here, engaged in commercial business, and such other pursuits, as interest or enterprise may dictate. The remainder, like ourselves, are mere travellers or temporary residents, in search of information or health. A large number of young physicians, from almost every city between NewOrleans and Portland, are at Paris for the purpose of attending the medical schools, and completing their professional studies. We met one gentleman from the Green Mountains, another from the banks of the Ohio, and a third from the wilderness of the Arkansas, two or three hundred miles west of the Mississippi-all making the tour of Europe, and comparing the old world with the new. Both the Navy and Army

of the United States are ably represented. The former has a Commodore, one or two captains, three or four lieutenants, and as many surgeons; and the latter numbers up its officers to the rank of Majors.

This numerous circle of our own countrymen are actively engaged

*Mr. Somerville, who died during our visit, universally regretted, and was buried at La Grange.

in acquiring information in general, and particularly such as relates more immediately to their professional pursuits. As they bring with them their republican sentiments and feelings, their characteristic habits of inquiry and discrimination, there is little danger that their eyes will be dazzled by the luxuries, or their minds contaminated with the politics of other countries. Acting on the liberal principles, which have hitherto guided the United States in their march of greatness and real glory, they will sift the chaff from the wheat, in their examinations of foreign schools and foreign institutions, seeking to transfer all the excellencies, without any of the defects, for the benefit of our own. In my view, there is much more danger, that the United States will copy too much rather than too little from the customs and manners of Europe. The patriot and philanthropist, who regards the substantial wealth, independence, and comfort of the great mass of the people, as the best criterion of national happiness, will be slow in his wishes for the introduction of any of those refined and expensive luxuries, which are incompatible with republican simplicity, and lead to political degradation. We are a happy people at present, and the progress of the artificial embellishments of society is likely to be sufficiently rapid, without any laboured efforts to give it a new impulse.

From the American Minister and his family, we received a liberal share of their characteristic hospitality, urbanity, and kindness, manifested on all occasions to citizens of the United States. With a palace for his residence, a fortune at his command, and a lady for his partner, whose accomplishments peculiarly qualify her for the sphere of social and fashionable life, our ambassador is enabled to show those attentions to his countrymen, as well as to the extensive circle of his friends abroad, which some of his predecessors could either not afford, or had not the disposition to manifest. His expenses probably exceed twice the amount of his salary. He lives in one of the most splendid palaces in Paris, the rent of which is something like $5,000 a year. It was formerly occupied by the Danish Minister. Its entrance is by a spacious court, and on the other side is a beautiful garden, with a promenade planted with ornamental trees, containing an area of six or eight acres.

The suite of apartments are not surpassed either in extent or elegance of furniture, by the chambers of the king himself; and the style of his table exceeds in taste, as well as in splendour, any thing of the kind, which has fallen within the sphere of my observation. Plate of the richest and costliest descriptions, brilliant chandeliers, and pyramids of flowers, almost make the guest forget, that he is at the festive board of a plain, substantial citizen of the United States, who is ultra republican