can mature in the following year, agreeably to the scale given in page 30, and, assuming (for the sake of making the operation clear,) that the strength of the vine is equal to the maturation of fifty pounds' weight of fruit, the number of buds that it will be advisable to retain, to produce that quantity, will be from ninety to a hundred. Now, before selecting the shoots that are to contain this number of buds, means must be taken to provide for a proper supply of future bearing-wood. For this purpose, choose some of the strongest current year's shoots that are situated nearest to the stem of the vine, and at appropriate distances from each other, and cut each of these down to the two lowermost buds. The number of shoots to be thus spurred, must not be less than two, nor need they be more than six. Having thus provided for the supply of future bearing-wood, proceed in the next place, to select the shoots that are to be retained as fruit-bearers. In doing this, remember that good bearing-wood is almost invariably round and hard, of a good size, and short-jointed, with large prominent buds, that are, in general, rather round at their extremities. Bearing these qualities in mind, choose such shoots as answer this description, and that are situated nearest to the stem, but sufficiently distant from each other, to admit of their fruiting shoots being conveniently trained in the next summer, without being

crowded. Shorten each shoot to such part of it, as is sound and hard, retaining as many wellripened buds as possible. Let the shoots be situated in equal numbers on each of the main branches; for instance, if the vine contain only two arms, similar to figure 3, (page 106,) and four bearing-shoots be retained, let two be situated on each arm; also, let the two shoots on one arm contain the same number of buds, or nearly so, as the two on the other arm. Now, count the buds on each shoot, omitting the two bottom ones, and set apart the required number on the fewest shoots possible. Having done this, cut all the other parts of the vine entirely away, retaining only those, on which are situated these bearing-shoots and the spurs to produce future bearers; the main object in view, being, to get rid of the greatest quantity possible of old wood. But if any of the shoots that are to be thus cut away, should be favourably situated for the production of bearing-shoots at some future period, leave on all such, the lowermost bud, but with respect to all the rest, cut them out close to their respective parent branches.

3rd. Cut out from the bearing-shoots that are retained, all their lateral shoots, close to the bases of the buds, and also the remaining portions of the tendrils and footstalks of the bunches of fruit, (if any,) as well as all excrescences, and every portion of dead wood that

remains in the vine. Prune them all smoothly, close to their parent branches, in a clean and workmanlike manner, leaving behind, no unsightly ragged edges or extremities to disfigure

the vine.

4th. If any part of the outer bark of the stem or branches be decayed, which will be easily seen by its loose and ragged appearance; peel or scrape off all such parts with a blunt-edged pocket knife, taking care not to wound, or in any way injure the live bark. The decayed bark, having lost its vitality, and with it, its power of resisting and throwing off the rain, becomes so highly retentive of moisture, as to be almost sobbing wet throughout the winter months, especially if several layers of it have been suffered to accumulate. In this state, if permitted to remain, it speedily generates moss, and becomes, also, the receptacle of innumerable insects. And it is contrary to every known principle of vegetable life, that a plant like the vine, which is a native of a warm climate, should ever flourish, while its stem and branches are thus encircled with a decayed bandage, covered with moss and saturated with moisture, which constantly chills its juices, and thereby paralyzes the beneficial effects of the sun and air, during a period of the year when they are of the last importance to the health of the plant. The annual removal of the decayed bark, therefore,

may

be regarded as a point of culture, that tends very greatly to promote the prosperous vegetation of a vine.

5th. The barking of the vine being finished, the whole operation will be completed, and the branches must then be nailed to the wall in a temporary manner. In doing this, remember, that the wind has very little power over the naked wood, and that, therefore, a few strong shreds nailed firmly over the branches at proper distances, will be sufficient to protect them. Let the bearing-shoots be nailed on those parts of the wall, where they will receive the greatest portion of the sun's rays, without any regard to the situation which they will subsequently be made to occupy at the winter training. The vine, thus pruned, barked, and nailed, will be in readiness to receive the influence of the season at the earliest period possible, and will, throughout the winter, present a beautiful appearance of dormant vegetation.

CHAPTER XIV.

ON THE WINTER MANAGEMENT OF THE VINE.

December 1st. The winter being the proper time to manure the border, let it now be lightly forked up, and a good coating of manure laid over it about six inches deep, which will answer the two-fold purpose of enriching the border, and protecting the roots of the vine. It has been already stated, that, after a vine has been planted a few years, its roots will make their way up to the surface, if the border be not disturbed by cropping or digging; but it is necessary to observe, that when they are so situated, their tender fibres will inevitably perish, unless protected from severe weather, during the depth of the winter. To prevent this, therefore, and also to keep the roots as warm as possible, the border should be covered over through this month, and the two following ones. For this purpose, long stable manure about half made, is the most suitable, as, from its spirituous nature, it will keep the soil warmer, and more effectually resist the frost and other unfavourable atmospheric changes, than any other description of manure. If this, how