After having painted the ship, &c., on the morning of the 25th they left Taloo harbour, and towards evening saw Tethuroa, low land, about twentyfour miles from Otaheite. It consists of six or seven islets very near each other, not many feet above the level of the sea, covered with cocoa-nuts, but no bread-fruit, which they are not allowed to cultivate. It belongs to the king, but Manne Manne claims it. The natives, about three thousand, are principally employed in fishing for the chiefs at Otaheite, and bring back bread-fruit and other things in exchange.

About four in the afternoon of the next day, they arrived at Otaheite, where a variety of refreshments were provided.

A large house which was originally built for the accommodation of captain Cook, was now appropriated for our use. The building was sufficiently large for the present, but objectionable on account of its being open and much exposed to the weather, and to pilferers; some of whom are very expert. These objections were, however, soon removed upon application to the king and chiefs, who immediately ordered a number of the natives to procure rafters, which in two or three days were brought and expeditiously appropriated to palisado our dwelling. Its accommodation was now found very comfortable, and the situation pleasant. In front, is the beautiful Matavai Bay, commanding a view of the district Oparree, and the island Eimeo. In the rear is a delightful river, the water of which is valuable for any purpose. Its source is among the stupendous mountains; and the

whole country, from the highest summits of the mountains to the margin of the island, is clothed with evergreen fruit-trees of the greatest variety, and at all seasons productive of more than sufficient for the consumption of the numerous inhabitants.

CHAPTER III.

Description of Otaheite.-Productions.-Manners and Customs.Sacrifices. Amusements.-Dresses.-Canoes.-Diseases, &c.

OTAHEITE lies in about 18° of S. latitude and 150°

W. longitude, and consists of two peninsulas, joined by a neck of land about three miles broad, covered with trees and shrubs, but wholly uncultivated; though no part of the island seems more capable of improvement, and of admitting the plough, if cleared from wood. The larger, to the N. W., and which is called Otaheite Nooe, is about ninety miles in circumference, and nearly circular; the lesser, or Tiaraboo to the S. E., is about fifteen miles long, and ten broad. The whole length of the island is about forty geographical miles. It appears to consist of two mountains, (joined by the isthmus already noticed,) which are divided into a variety of districts, and are probably subject to changes made by the divisions and subdivisions of the chiefs among their towhas and relations. This island has a border of low land reaching from the beach to the rising of the hills, in

some places nearly a mile, in others hardly a furlong; and in several points the mountains abruptly terminate in cliffs, against which the sea beats, forming difficult passages from one district to another. The soil of the low lands, and of the valleys which run up from the sea between the mountains, is remarkably fertile; it consists of a rich blackish mould, covered with bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, plantain, evee apple, the yout, or cloth-plant, and many others. There grows a great variety of trees upon the mountains, which are, in most places, covered to the very tops with wood, in others with bamboos of great length, and in some by fern and reed, appearing at a distance like a fine green lawn. The hills rise very steep, and swell into mountains almost inaccessible; but every where productive of plantains, yams, and a great variety of roots growing spontaneously, and sometimes used for food. In these higher regions only, is to be found the precious sandal-wood; it is of two kinds, yellow and dark-coloured; from whence the natives chiefly draw the perfume for the cocoa-nut oil, with which they anoint themselves. But the difficulty of procuring the wood is so great, owing to its situation on craggy and frightful precipices, that only small quantities are obtained, and these are considered the exclusive property of the chiefs, and held as an article of great value.

The country exhibits a mountainous aspect, and rises very high in the centre; it is intersected by narrow valleys, into which numerous streams flow from the hills, forming, in some places, beautiful cas

cades. In the rainy seasons these streams swell into torrents, and sometimes loosen rocks and trees from the precipices, washing them down into the valleys, which they overflow, and occasion much damage. During the greater part of the year, these valleys afford a passage from one side of the island to the other, it being always difficult to ascend the mountains; but in the rainy season, this becomes impracticable, and the communication between one district and another is kept up by canoes. These pass within the reefs in smooth water with great ease; using this precaution only, that as the northernmost part of the island has a steep, rocky shore, and in blowing weather the landing is dangerous, those who wish to go to windward, proceed in their canoes westward, where they seldom find the trade-wind, and the sea breeze sets in from the westward. The high land obstructs the easterly wind, and the island Eimeo lying in a direction N. and S., forces a fresh westerly current up the south side of Otaheite, which wafts the canoes to the isthmus; where, hauling them across, they are sure of a fair wind home. This is at present done on rollers, and by ropes; but a carriage with wheels would wonderfully facilitate the operation; and probably, ere long, a practicable road will be formed for this purpose; as has been suggested by one of the Missionaries.

When the trade-wind gets far to the south, and blows fresh, it generally rains on the south side of the island, bringing the clouds from the mountains of Tiaraboo, and emptying their contents at Pappara and the ad