a heavy clayey loam to a light sandy soil, provided there is no lime or chalk in its composition. They will not only not do well in limy soils, but in some cases will literally die out altogether in course of years. All who can procure a peaty soil should of course do so; and now that railways have opened up almost every tract of country in the kingdom, peat is much more easily and cheaply procured by those who are remote from peaty localities.

But the employment of peat in the culture of Rhododendrons, though highly desirable, is not necessary. Rhododendrons may be, and are, grown well without a particle of it. In some localities there naturally exists a light silky loam, which suits Rhododendrons remarkably well, especially after a considerable proportion of well-decayed vegetable matter, such as leaf-mould, or the vegetable rot-heap which exists about most gardens, has been mixed with it. But where a compost has to be entirely made up for Rhododendrons, and peat is not attainable, then a different course must be followed. This becomes necessary where the soil is either a hard impenetrable clay, or a poor hungry soil, which is too dry for such a moisture-loving plant as this. To prepare beds or borders for Rhododendrons under such circumstances, the first thing to do is to remove the unsuitable soil to the depth of about 18 inches or 2 feet, and in clayey soils to see that the drainage is good, for, though fond of moisture, stagnant water about the roots is highly injurious. Into the bottom of gravelly hot soils 6 inches of a heavy loam may be put with advantage in as far as it will help to secure a cool subsoil. The staple may be composed of loam, turfy material from the sides of highways or ditches or

hedges, well-decayed leaves, and a little thoroughly rotten cow dung. Indeed, any thoroughly decomposed vegetable refuse which can be brought together, such as old very rotten tan and the substances already named, and thrown into a heap, to be turned over and mixed with as much sand as will make it sparkle—such as sand and chips from a freestone quarry,―all thoroughly incorporated, will grow Rhododendrons and other American plants in a very satisfactory way. What is required most is a soil, loose, rich, and capable of holding moisture without being stagnant, which beds made in clayey soils are subject to, although cold clay subsoils are much more favourable than hot gravelly ones.

Rhododendrons may be moved and planted any time when at rest, that is, when not in bloom or making growth. But October is the most desirable time for planting. The first summer after being planted, the surface of the soil should be mulched with half-decayed litter, such as leaves, in order to prevent evaporation, and to keep the roots cool and moist; and during dry. weather a heavy watering occasionally of pond water will be of great benefit. When the plants show signs of weakness in such compositions, they should have a top dressing of some rich compost spread over the beds, such as cow manure and loam, in equal proportions; and as they bear lifting with impunity, they can be lifted at intervals of years, and some fresh rich compost added to the soil, and then replanted.

Plants with clear stems of a foot or two from the ground always flower better than low bushes; and in the northern and colder parts of the kingdom it is a mistake to plant American plants in shaded situations. They set their buds and bloom much better when exposed to

the sun. In hotter districts, a dell not overhung with trees, but having a north aspect, is the most suitable; and to look down on American plants in June in such a situation is a sight worth a struggle to produce, especially when standard plants of striking colours are interspersed among the dwarfs, giving light and shade and relief. A mixture of deciduous, or other less formal, shrubs, judiciously interspersed, rather improves the effect of Rhododendrons at all times. Any one who has seen the grand displays annually produced in London under canvas, will not easily rid his mind of the grandeur of the Rhododendron as a decorative plant.

CHAPTER X.

DECIDUOUS HARDY SPRING-FLOWERING SHRUBS, SUITABLE FOR BEDS AND SHRUBBERY BORDERS, ETC.

ALTHOUGH our primary object in this work has been to treat of what is generally termed and understood as the flower-garden proper, we hope it may prove useful to many of our readers who are unacquainted with flowering shrubs, and deciduous spring-flowering shrubs in particular, to append a list of the most useful and beautiful of them, which generally flower in early spring, and onwards to the end of May. Some of the best of the dwarfer-growing varieties are very suitable for beds, and might be so used with advantage where spring variety is an object. All of them are excellent for planting in shrubberies, and are relieved, and give relief to, their more sombre evergreen rivals. Deciduous spring-flowering shrubs do not generally receive that amount of care and good culture which their merits deserve. Their delicate tints when in flower, and more graceful and airy appearance as compared with evergreens-beautiful and useful as the latter are-demand more attention; and were the same amount of culture and care bestowed on them which has been deservedly bestowed on evergreen shrubs and conifers, they would well repay all that could be done for them. They bloom at a time when the surroundings of the spring garden are more

tame than that of the autumn garden, which latter season brings with it all the gorgeousness of varied tints in fruits and foliage; and even heavy and splendid masses of evergreens, which form the boundaries of flower-gardens, would look all the richer, and less gloomy, were they lightened up with a due proportion of the more abundant flowering deciduous shrubs, which generally do well in most localities and soils. The following list comprises a very effective selection:

Deciduous Hardy Spring-flowering Shrubs, suitable for Beds and Shrubbery Borders, etc.

Those marked w are suitable for walls.