myself with much luggage; and on the first Friday night in July, or rather Saturday morning, I went on board the Hamburg boat, lying in the river, expecting to start in about two hours. Shortly after reaching the deck, where the crew were getting in the cargo, it began to rain, and, with little intermission, continued to do so till I landed on Monday morning. An accident happening to the engines directly we started, we were brought to a standstill for more than four hours, by which time the morning began to break ;-but such a morning, nothing but rain, rain, rain, which poured down from clouds of lead, causing a dreadfully unpleasant mist to rise from the river, which itself resembled a stream of liquid mud. How different from the breaking day I have beheld on land and sea before and since that time. I did not wish to incur the expense of the best cabin; and finding the fore cabin small and crowded, I determined to remain on deck the whole of the time, preferring the drizzling rain to the bad odours and unhealthy atmosphere below stairs. The damage being repaired, we at length fairly started and proceeded down the river, the thick mist scarcely allowing a glimpse of the well known objects on either side. It is not my intention to detain you by detailing the many unpleasantnesses of that doleful voyage, including of course sea sickness. It needs but little experience as a traveller to know that a sea voyage, with bad accommodation, bad company, and miserably bad weather, is anything but a pleasure trip, and to which a speedy termination is devoutly to be wished: and did travelling have nothing better to offer than such as the experience of that voyage might lead me to expect, I for one would soon cry, "Hold, enough!"-But it is marvellous how soon we forget our discomforts when they are past, and we feel confident that many hours of enjoyment are before us.

Some little diversion was caused by a very obese English servant of the King of Hanover, in charge of two horses and some hounds, which the King had purchased during his visit here. This mountain of flesh had been imbibing large quantities of beer and other and stronger drinks, and seemed very merry and jovial; but, as soon as we were out of the river, the vessel beginning to pitch, the fat coachman, for such I took him to be, grew as pale as his bloated red face would admit of, and starting up from his seat, waddled, with about as much grace as an overfed duck, to the side; and, after some violent gesticulation, expressive of great anguish, he returned with an unsteady gait and rueful countenance to his horses. He laid his unwieldy body on some straw between the horse boxes, and there remained till he was again forced to repeat the involuntary pantomime. But all his fun had gone. Beyond this little event, nothing occurred to break the monotony of the time until Sunday night, when we entered the Elbe. As it was very dark, blue lights were burnt, rockets sent up, and a small gun fired, to let the various small fishing craft know our whereabouts, that they might move out of the way. On the following morning, to my extreme gratification, we landed at Hamburg, situated eighty miles from the sea.

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I was driven to the Sun Hotel, in the new part of the town, where I found my slight knowledge of German of much service; I was pleased to find that I understood them, and also that they could understand me, which was of more consequence; for owing to the disinclination which I, in common with the rest of the passengers, felt to eat during the passage, I could not conceal the fact that my internal economy stood greatly in need of something substantial to replenish the waste of undigested food, and give strength to pursue my journey. And after refreshing myself internally and externally, by means of some excellent coffee and ham, and a good wash, I felt quite reconciled to my position, and entirely forgot that I had had no sleep for three nights.

I then sallied forth, and could not but admire the superb edifices that have risen upon the ashes of the great fire of 1842, which destroyed more than seventeen hundred houses and sixty-one streets. Pity the citizens of London did not exercise an equal amount of judgment and taste in rebuilding their houses after the notable fire of 1666. On reaching the Alster bason, a sheet of water nearly half a mile square, I noticed that the houses were remarkably elegant. Around this bason is a very pleasant and much frequented promenade, and in fine weather the water is covered with pleasure boats. The private dwellings being on so magnificent a scale, render the public buildings less conspicuous; and those only worthy of particular attention are the Exchange and the church of St. Michael, with its steeple four hundred and fifty-six feet high. After perambulating the streets for some hours, I felt rather tired, and returned to the hotel in time for the table d'hôte, which was held in a large room, or salle, overlooking one of the many canals that ran through the city.

Dinner finished, I walked towards the more ancient part of the city, where the old-fashioned, half wooden, tumbledown houses presented a marked contrast to the princely stone buildings erected after the fire. But the streets were full of life and bustle, and the numerous vessels at the quays, loading and unloading, showed that the city was one of great commercial importance. Returning again to the more fashionable quarter, I had not proceeded far before the sound of fire-arms became distinctly audible; and, seeing a crowd of people hastening in the direction of the sound, I followed. We shortly arrived at a large open field, and the cause of the disturbance soon appeared. The brave Hamburg soldiers were drawn up in battle array in two opposing lines, and were discharging their blank cartridges at each other with the greatest glee depicted on their countenances. Soon a retreat was sounded on one side, and the enemy, with a loud hurrah, pursued, but only to turn to flee. This continued for some time, and neither side seemed to be gaining advantage. The officers looked grave, aides-de-camp were seen galloping about with an air of great importance; and finally a rush was made down a deep hollow, the opposite extremity of which was very steep and thickly covered with bushes. This commanding eminence was taken possession of

by the side having the start, and then there was a most animating scene and a vast deal of noise. One continual firing was kept up, either in volleys, or single shots from those skirmishing among the bushes, when an opportunity presented itself of popping off, or at, an enemy. But no one fell, except from the inequality of the ground; and everything passed off with the utmost good humour. How it ended, I know not, for having to rise early next morning, I left them in the very heat of the conflict; I suppose it was a drawn battle. Whether the manœuvres were skilful or not, I do not take upon myself to say; but I must confess that this mimic fight passed away an hour or so very pleasantly. It is much to be regretted that men cannot always play at battle.

I sat at the window, watching the busy people passing and repassing, and also admiring the different costumes of the country-women; among them, most conspicuous, the Vierlânder flower-girls. These wear flat straw hats, resembling the top of a round table, nearly a yard in diameter, with a narrow edge. Behind the head is a large bow of black ribbon. A bodice and very short petticoat, of dark coarse material; and the arms bare to the elbow, where they are met by white sleeves reaching to the shoulder, complete the dress of these damsels. They carry a pretty basket holding the flowers; and dead indeed must be the heart that can refuse a bouquet when offered by a Vierlânder flowergirl. Some of the men also had gaudy waistcoats, covered with large silver buttons. I then shut my window and tumbled into bed, and need scarcely say my slumbers were profound.

In the morning, after discharging my bill, whose cramped German characters I could not decipher, I proceeded to the station of the Berlin railway. On entering the second-class carriage, I was agreeably surprised to find it equal to, if not better than our first class. The German mode of railway travelling, if not in a hurry, is very agreeable. At every second or third station there is a halt called for five, ten, or fifteen minutes, sometimes more, which is invariably made known to the passengers by the guard, who very civilly informs them the exact time allowed for refreshment and exercise. It was at one of these stations that I first tasted genuine German sausage; I purchased a thin slice, placed on half of a roll, and found it very good.

To

In this comfortable manner we advanced through a dull, flat country, till we arrived at the Prussian frontier, where our passports were demanded, and we were given to understand they would be returned at the next station; but I saw no more of mine till our arrival in Berlin, at four o'clock, and then, Heaven knows I had enough of it. The distance from Hamburg is about 175 miles. leave the station, it was necessay to pass through a small passage, where a helmeted soldier was placed, whose duty it was again to examine the credentials of each person. I endeavoured to pass through with the rest, but was repulsed, from my passport not having been returned; and was told to wait in the passport-office. Meanwhile, however, I was allowed to see after my luggage; and on open

ing it, the official took out piece by piece everything therein; and, after scattering them about in picturesque confusion, informed me I might replace them-no easy task, especially in the case of a young countryman, who said he had been obliged to get some one at home to stand on his trunk while he locked it. But they were pressed in somehow, though not without compassing the total destruction of shirt fronts" got up," with especial care for the occasion.

I should not omit to state, in order to show the extreme regard which the Prussian government entertains for foreigners in general, and Englishmen in particular, that during this severe scrutiny a soldier was stationed behind each of us, who did not allow us out of sight for a moment; if we moved backwards, forwards, or sideways, they did the same, and when the baggage was again secured, followed us back to the passport office, and remained on guard at the door.

Here a slight surprise awaited us, for we were informed that our presence was necessary at the police-office. I asked "Why; was there anything informal in the passport?" It was a foreign-office one, and I took care to get it visé at Hamburg. To this very reasonable inquiry they deigned no answer: a specimen of German

bureaucratic pride and politeness.

Poor

But it was very evident they were in earnest, for two droskes drove up one for us, that is, my countryman, myself, and a German, who had become a citizen of the United States, and who, unfortunately for him, had been in Berlin, during the disturbances of 1849-the other to be filled with soldiers; and in this style we arrived at the Polizei bureau, and I made my first appearance as an actor in a police-court. On mounting the stairs, and entering a small chamber, in which were two officials, smoking, we found a young man, imploring, even with tears, for pardon. It appeared he had notice to leave the city in forty-eight hours-a very common occurrence—and had neglected to do so; having been discovered within the walls after that period. He was sentenced to be imprisoned for a long time, and was praying that his punishment might be lightened. fellow! he prayed in vain. In this vile place, in company with rogues and vagabonds, we were detained nearly two hours. After sundry petty cases had been dismissed, we were called, and a variety of questions were put to us, as to who and what we were? What we wanted in Berlin? How much money had we? and, most monstrous of all, Would we let them see it? Most certainly not; nor did we. Of course we said we were the fortunate possessors of much more of the circulating medium than was really the case. The papers were then sent into an inner room, and we were told to follow them, and were obliged to carry our luggage about with us, or run the chance of losing it-more German politeness! In this was one clerk at a desk where there should have been four or five, and he did not disturb his equanimity in the least; one whiff from his cigar followed another in slow succession, receiving no greater impulse from the

presence of outward circumstances. Though it was very annoying, I could not help admiring the stolid impassive manner in which this clerk performed his duties. In consequence of this non-division of labour, we were detained here also a considerable time, till he had copied the name, &c., into a book, and written some lines on the back of the passport, which were totally unintelligible. He explained, however, that before leaving we must get the visé of the English consul. He then asked us what hotel we were going to, as that must be recorded also. He recommended the Stadt Breslau, as a very good one, gweiter classe, or second rate. I do not know what became of the German-American; he went into another room, and was no more seen. My countryman wished to spend the first night with me, as he understood nothing but English. So we went to the Stadt Breslau.

Now, I am not aware whether the clerk took us to be Jews, or wished to play us a practical joke, but I soon discovered that the hotel was kept by a Jew, and none but Jews frequented it; and the waiter afterwards told me that our presence had caused much surprise. This accounted for the very strange food I had during my stay there of six days. I may safely say that during the whole of the time I had not the slightest idea of the nature of the food I lived upon. At first I thought it was merely the difference of cookery, and as it was not unpalatable, and I thought that a traveller should not be over nice, I usually managed to make a good meal. I could not understand why the landlord put to me each day the question "Schmeckts?" "Do you like it?" till the communication of the friendly young waiter threw light upon the mystery. I never met with the same odd compounds at any other hotel, so I suppose that, during my sojourn there, I was fed upon the peculiar food of the children of Israel.

My companion, having a letter on a certain Count Hugo von Donnersmark, asked me to go with him to endeavour to find the address. As it was at some distance, I thought the best plan would be to hire a droske; and here let me say a few words in praise of the admirable plan on which these public carriages are conducted. On entering, you are presented with a small ticket, on which is printed the number of the carriage, and the fare, five silver groschen, or about 6d., for which you may traverse the city from one gate to the other. Placed in a conspicuous position before the passenger, is a printed card, with a large number corresponding with that on the ticket, and the regulations under which they ply for hire. They are generally open, but in case of rain can speedily be closed in as close as our cabs. The only annoyance is, that they proceed at a uniformly slow pace, which seldom amounts to more than a quiet walk. But as they are principally engaged for a quiet drive of an evening, the pace suits the German temperament very well. To resume:-On arriving at the house, the door was opened by a woman who requested us to