Imagens das páginas

d'Anis, and then Puy, or Puech, i.e., a peak, from the volcanic mountain on whose north and west sides it lies, sloping in a remarkably picturesque way towards the Borne, which valley joins those of the Dolaison and Loire close by.

This conical peak, in the midst of a circle of other rugged volcanic hills covered with vineyards, &c., is 2,484 feet above the sea, or 460 feet above its own spreading base: from which the laya-built houses, with their tiled roofs, rise in tiers, past the Cathedral, the gardens of the seminary, &c., to the top, called the Roche de Corneille, and crowned by the ruined castle. Viewed from the Pont St. Jean this top offers a rough likeness to Henry IV., with his aquiline nose, moustache, and beard.

On the east of Mont d'Anis, is a sharp peak of volcanic breccia, nearly 300 feet high. called L'Aiguilhe, or L'Aiguille (the needle), on which is the little spire Chapel of St. Michel, seemingly inaccessible, but reached by a spiral of 218 steps. It is in the Romanesque style of the 10th century. Below, between the peaks, is the “temple of Diana," a little seven-sided Romanesque Chapel of St. Clair, now used as a barn or a theatrc. From the very sloping position of the town, the streets are too irregular and steep for carriages: they are paved with lava. One old gate has great machicolated towers on each side. A flight of 120 broad s'eps brings you up to the

Cathedral, which stands with its back to the rock, and is built of lava, in a half Romanesque style. It has two pillars of red porphyry in front, an isolated pyramidal spire and low towers, a nave of three aisles on great pillars, good carved pulpit, a painting of the Innocents, a carving on wood of St. Andrew's martyrdom, and an altar of divers colours, on which stands an ebony image of the Virgin in gold brocade, brought (they say) from Egypt, by St. Louis on his return from the Crusades, 1254; a gift which produced many pretended miracles, besides an abbey and convents, and many royal visits. The bishop of Le Puy was, by custom, president of the States of Velay.

A large priests' seminary and the hospital stand near the cathedral. At the college (which has a chapel with an Italian front) is a library of 5,000 volumes. St. Laurent's great church n Basse Ville, near the bridge, contains the modern effigies of Du.

guesclin, copied from those destroyed by the Baron des Adrets, when he and his fierce Calvinists attacked the town. A new Hôtel de Ville is in Place des Breuil; and at the Museum is a collection of pictures, Roman antiquities, minerals, and fossils.

Manufactures of blond and cotton lace, woollen goods, leather, skins for wine bottles, muleteers' hats, and bells, &c. Coaches to Clermont, St. Etienne, Mende, and Tain station, on the Marseilles line.

Among the various objects of notice in the neighbourhood (of which the Roche de Corneille commands a fine prospect), are the Orgues d'Espally (west), the châteaux of Polignac, St. Vidal, and Loudes (north-west), château of Ceyssac (southwest), Roche Rouge, or Red Rock (east), the cavernes des Fées, the lac de Limagne, and numerous volcanic peaks. (POLIGNAC (3 kil.) is a village near the Borre,

round the base of a basalt mass, crowned by
the fine keep and round towers of the ruined
castle of the Polignac family, which stands on
the site of a temple of Apollo (Apollonicum,
whence the present name), and was destroyed
at the Revolution. Its seigneurs were styled
" Kings of the Mountains." At 18 kil. beyond
this, up the river, near Allègre, is the Cratère,
or Dôme de Bar, a perfect crater, 1,590 feet
diameter, and 127 deep, the sides being planted

with becches. Orgues d'Espally (2 miles west of Puy) on the

Borne, is a striking pyramidal mass of basalt pillars, like the pipes of an organ (orgues), at the top of which are traces of a château, where Charles VII., when nearly all France was lost to hi:n, was proclaimed by the States of Velay, 1424. One of the best views of le Puy

is got here. At 30 kil. south-east-by-south of le Puy is Mont Mezenc, in the Cevennes, the highest of the

volcanic range of Ardèche (1,910 yards above the sea), at the head of the Lignon, Gazelle, Erieux, &c., and not far from the Gerbier de

Joncs (1,710 yards), at the Loire's head. Mont Mezenc has the two fine falls of la Roche

and la Baume, on the west side, 82 and 98 feet down; and commands one of the noblest views in France, taking in the French and Swiss Alps, &c.)

CHACORNAC (14 kill) About 8 kil. west of this Corinthian pilasters, &c, on each face.-Bagis Bouchet lake, in the crater of a volcanic peak, nols (9 kil.), and the sulphur springs higher up 14,760 feet round, and 92 feet deep.

the Lot.- St. Julien-de-Tournel, 8 kil. higher LANDOS (8 kil.)

up, a seat of the lords of Gévaudan. Mont PRADELLES (8 kil.) where a road turns off to Au-| Lozère, a peak 4,900 feet above sea. benas in Ardèche (see Route 29).

From Mende, on the road to Rodez and Albi, Largogne (6 kil.), a station on the Nismes and you pass Clermont-Ferrand line (see Route 31).

BARIAC (9 miles) on the Lot; 11 kil. to the CHÂTEAUNEUF-RANDON (19 kil.), on a rocky north-west of which is height, belonged to the seigneurs of Gévaudan, and

MARVEJOLS, a sous-préfecture of nearly 4,850 was defended by the old castle of Randon, which population, in the valley of the Colagne; it was the English held, 1380, when they gave it up to nearly destroyed by the royal forces under the Duc Duguesclin, who died in the meantime, and to de Joyeuse, 1586, but restored by Henry IV., and whom a pillar was set up at Bitarelle, 1820. is well built. The springs about have a good Duguesclin was a gentle soldier for that rugged

dyeing quality. age. On his death-bed, he .desired his people to CHANAC (7 kil.), on the Lot, has remains of Druid remember, that wherever they made war, church

stones near it, and, upon the cliffs above, an old men, women, children, and the poor, were not

château of the bishops of Mende. At 8 kil. to the their enemies.

north-east, on the Colagne, at Chirac, are several At 19 kil. further is

other Druid monuments, and a spot called CimeMENDE.

tière des Anglais, where the English were defeated HOTELS.-Du Pavillon; Crey; Rosier, &c.

in the 14th century. The stations for this place, on the Clermont and LA CANOURGUE (10 kil.), in a fertile valley, where Nismes line, are Alais and Villefort. Popula the serge stuffs of Canourgue are made, has rerion, 6,960.

mains of an ancient fort of St. Amand.' Much Chief town of department Lozère, seat of a Roman pottery was found here, 1829. At 5 kil. Lishop, &c., in the fertile valley of the Lot, among to north of it, is the church of St. Salmon, built by the Margeride mountains (a range of the Ceven Pope Urban V. A bridge over the Lot, leads from nes), one of which, Mont Mimat, 3,600 feet above it to the village of Mont-Jézieu, so called because a the sea, or 650 above the town (to which it gave colony of Jews were settled here before the 14th name), has the hermitage of St. Privat, who was century. martyred here by the Vandals. He is called the SEVERAC (20 kil.), in department Aveyron, is on apostle of the Gabale, or people of Gévaudan. The the Biaur, above which is the old château of its strcets are narrow and crooked, but ornamented marquises, built in the 17th century; square, with with many fountains. Country houses are perched corner towers. on the hills around.

MILHAU (30 kil.) or MILLAU, a sous-préfecture in The Cathedral, with two tall Gothic spire towers Aveyron, of 12,640 souls, and the ancient Æmili(nne slender and well carved), stands on the site otanum, in a pretty part of the Tarn. It suffered in St. Privat's grave. At the old episcopal palace, now the Albigengian wars, and was one of the first to used for the Préfecture, is a gallery of pictures, accept the reformed faith, in 1534, when the marsome by Bénard. The library contains 7,000

riage of the Benedictine prior with the Abbess of volumes. There is a college, a priests' seminary, &c. | Arpaionie took place here. General assemblies

Conveyances to Le Puy, Montpellier, Nismes, Cler were frequently held in the town, and it is still mont-Ferrand, &c.

chietly Protestant. The stone bridge was rebuilt [In the neighbourhood are the following:-Pont 1817; a suspension bridge is of later date. There Gothique, a bridge of five arches, one in ruins. I are good walks about. Good ewe-milk cheese Lanuejols (7 kil. east), near the Lot, has a fine (called Roquefort),gloves, vellum, thread, &c., are Roman mausoleum, about 25 feet square, with | made. Generals Sarret and Solignac were nativos, At 86 kil. to the north-West is Rodez (sa Route | attachment to Protestantism, in 1929, after cilit 89). The road to Montpellier turns off to the southa | woeks' slege, by Louis XIII., the walls razed, and east (see Route 82).

the garrison put to the sword. ST. AFFRIQUE (28 kil.) or St. Fric, a sous-préfec. Some old houses are seen, and the modern streets ture of 6,810 souls, in a rocky part of the Sorgue, are well laid out. It contains a Catholic church, has many old Gothic houses, and parts of the walls, Protestant temple (on the castle site), palais de built 1357, but which Louis XIII. dismantled for justice, with a four-column portico; college for 200; its attachment to Protestantism. An old hospital | bibliothèque of 2,000 volumes; large now prison, is used for the Mairie, and stands opposite the new and hospital. palais de justice. The neighbouring hills are Silk goods, leather, oil, spirits, &c., are made. covered with vineyards and orchards. Good cloth (Antraigues (20 kil. west-south-west) is finely is made, and it has a trade in cheese, wool, &c.

seated at the Volane's head, among forests of (At 12 kil. south-south-east, are the warm mineral chestnuts, &c., on masses of basalt and beds of

sulphur waters of Silvanès (104° temperature), lava, which were thrown out by the neighwhich are used from June to September. About bouring volcanoes; especially one, called Coupe 0 kil. south-west of this, near the little villago

dAisac, having a regularly shaped crater, now of Pont-de-Camarès, on the Dourdon, are the filled up by trees. The mountains of Mezenie, cold eaux-gazeuses, or carbonic acid gas springs Gerbier-de-Joncs, and other peaks of the Cevellof Andabre and Prugnes, wbich taste some. nes, are in view.) thing like soda-water.]

AUBENAS (30 kil.), a dept for the silk trade of ST. SERNIN (32 kil.), on the Rance, at the bottom

the Ardèche (population, 8,530), among the rolof a circle of mountains. About 16 kil., south-east,

canic peaks of the Coiron mountains, which are 18 Belmont, on the slant of a rock over the Rance,

covered with vines, olives, mulberrica &c. It with a good spire to its church.

stands on a hill, over the river Ardèche, above LA FRAYSSE (21 kil.), in department Tarn; 23 kil.

which rise its spire and domed churches, anl the beyond which is

towers of its Hotel de Ville, once a castle of the Albi (see Route 52) on the line to Tolouse and

Ornano and Harcourt families. Parts of the town Castres.

walls reinain; and the college and hospice descrve Toulouse is about 80 miles further.


Silk and cotion are spun, and paper, &c., made s ROUTE 29.

trade in silk, leather, corn, wine, oil, chestnuts, &e. Valence, to Privas and Alals, Coach to Montélimart station. Through the silk country of Ardèche, and anong the (Vals (5 kil, north-north-west), up the Volane, Cevennes Mountains.

which makes several falls, in a inost picturesque Valence station, as in Route 20. Then Livron

spot, is noted for its tonic mineral waters; and (11 miles), where the branch line turns off by a is near the Pont de Bridon, where the lava bods serpentinc line across the Rhône, past La Voulte and basalt rocks, abo.e-mentioned, begin. Tie (3 miles). Le Pouzin (37 miles), at the mouth of waters are drunk between June and Septem the Ouzève, St. Lager (4} miles), &c., to

ber. At 14 kil. north-west is PRIVAS (20 miles from Livron).

Thueyts, round which, and Mont Pezat, are vakt

beds of lava, &c., with volcanic ranges, which HOTELS.-Du Nord; De la Croix d'Or (Golden

rise towards Mezenc and the source of the Cross); Du Lion d'Or; Du Commerce.

Loire.] Population, 6,670.

This small capital of department Ardèche (the ST. ETIENNE-DE-BOULOGNE (3 kil.), has the fine old Vivarais), in a hilly spot, where two little ruins of one of the feudal castles of the Vivarais streams join the Ouzève, among vineyards and silk district. works, was an old fortifiod town, taken, Ing its (At 10 kil. east-south-cast, 18

VILLENEUVE-DE-BERG, originally a fortified tower a savage valley, or pass, between the Usége

of the monks of Mazan, who built the town in "" mountains.] Philippe le Hardi's time. There is a pillar to! JALEZ (11 kil.), near the Chassezac, where the Oliver de Serres, a native, who wrote the road to Villefort and Mende, in Lozère, turns off. Théâtre d'Agriculture, and first planted the St. Ambroix (12 kil.) on the Cèze, in departmulberry; the learned De Gebelin was also ment Gard, on the Besseges and Alais rail. born here. Population, 2,600. Coach to Monté Thence to limart station.]

Alais (12 miles), on the Nismes railway; or 34 L'ARGENTIÊRE (10 kil.), out of the road, in the kil. to the south-east is Uzes, whence it is 20 kil. to deep, rocky valley of Ligne, is a sous-préfecture of | Nismes. See Routes 30 and 31. 3,000 souls, and so called from the lead mines (from which silver, or argent, is extracted), worked here

ROUTE 30. since the 12th century. The old Gothic church is a

Avignon, to Tarascon, Nimes, Montpellier, light building, and rather elegant; and there is an

and Cette. ancient castle on the cliffs. Trade in silk, &c. Near it is a grotto, including several caves

Distance from Tarascon, 65} miles, or 105 kil.

six trains daily, 31 to 44 hours. [8T. LAURENT DES BAINS (27 kil. north-west), has some excellent warm sulphur waters, n a wild

Avignon to Tarascon, 13 miles, as in Route and rocky, but healthy, spot, on the Borne.

20. Thence, by a viaduct on 7 solid arches, over Jaujac (14 kil. north of Argentière), lies among

the Rhône, to volcanic peaks, in department Ardèche, and

Beaucaire (2 miles), which has an old Provenpil Ardèche river.]

castle on the broken rocks above, and is noted for a JOYEUSE (8 kil.), on the Drobie, a branch of the commercial Fair, lasting from 22nd to 29th July, Ardèche.

attended by merchants from all parts of the Medi(Below Ruoms (7 kil. east-south-east), is a wild

terranean. As many as 300,000 people are some. rocky part of the Ardèche (especially at the

times collected. It is held on the canal and the junction of the Voisin), where the river worms

banks of the river. The old carved Hôtel de Montitself through caves and round masses of rock

morency deserves attention. Population, 12.000. of the most fantastic shape (some are regular

A bridge of boats, here, has been replaced by cubes); while the banks on both sides, in one

Sequin's noble suspension bridge, hanging on four part, rise, at an angle of 45°, by immense steps

bends, each 4261 feet long. It is the largest in made by the wearing away of softer masses of

France, and ranks next to Menai, which is itself rock.

second to that of Fribourg, by another archiiect, At Vallom (which has a famous stalactitic grotto),

Challey. 7 kil. lower down, are two curiosities-1st, the The Aurelian way to Nimes and Spain went Fall of Ray Pic (122 feet down, over a basalt through this place, the

through this place, the ancient Ugernum. When ruck), under the curve of which you may take

its square castle was built, the name was altered to shelter in rain, like the Hepste fail in Breck

Bellum-Cadrum, Bel-quadro, &c., from which the

present form is derived. Outside the town is tlie nockshire, and which freezes in winter; and 2nd, the remarkable Pont de l'Arc, a rugged, natural

pretty Gothic oratory of St. Louis, of the 14th bridge, of hard, grey limestone, stretching in

century. A canal runs down to the sea, below one arch across the river, about 173 feet span.

Aigues Mortes, in connection with the Canal du and 96 high, the uneven roadway upon it being

Midi. At 17 kil. north-north-east is the famous over 200 feet above the water, and 40 feet

Pont du Gard, as described in Route 20. wide. It has been used from Roman times: Bellegarde (54 miles). Several cuttings in the Louis XIII, built a fort to command the pass; scarped rocks are traversed. and cottages stand hard by it. In the neigh- Manduel (34 miles), beyond which is Beaulier bourhood is the Gouffre (or gull de la Goule, Castle, and Regagnach hill, on which Druid stones

have been found. Pass, a curved viaduct on 23 | Esplanade is a still finer fountain, dedicated to the arches; then & cutting in the rocks, which some | city, by Questel, with colossal figures by Pradier. times look like ruined castles; then a tunnel; and Many of the lowest streets are named after emperors at length

and noted men, as Adrian, Vidal, a judge, Baduel Marguerittes (39 miles), and

and Petit, the scholars, Saurin, the divine, Traucat, Courbessac (14 mile). Patches of olives are

who planted the first mulberries here, &c. Its later seen in the general y dry soil. Nimes, or Nismes,

buildings are not of much consequence. appears under the cliffs, 2 miles further.

The Cathedral, in the Cité, is an irregnlar pile,

with bits of all styles in it, from the Byzantine NISMES,

downwards; the oldest part, near the tower, being 80} miles from Avignon, 490 from Paris. Here of the 19th century (the base, they say, was part the line from Clermont Ferrand falls in. (See of a Roman temple); while the rest belongs to the Route 31.)

16th and 17th centuries. It contains a picture of Hotel.-Grand Hotel du Luxembourg. An ex- the Baptism, and tombs of Fléchier and Cardinal cellent first class hotel for families and gentlemen.

Bernis. Population, 54, 300, one-third of whom are Pro

St. Paul's, in Place de la Madeline, is a modern testants: there are 150,000 in the department.

| building, in the Byzantine and Romanesque styles,

begun 1835, by Questel, and much admired by the OBJECTS OF NOTICE.-Cathedral-Maison

Nimois. Length, 200 feet; height of spire, 177 Carrée-Amphitheatre-Temple of Diana-Tour

feet. The figures over the portal are by Collins, Magne-Porte de France-Porte d'Auguste.

and the wall paintings, which form some of the This old city, the capital of department Gard

most considerable works, in this style, of the present (part of Languedoc), seat of a bishop, a Protestant

day, are by H. Flandrin. consistory, a college, &c., is most remarkable for

The churches of the college, and of St. Bandile, its monuments of Roman antiquity. It stands in

are also seen, the latter having a good façade. the dusty, unattractive, though fertile plain of the

There are two Protestant churches, Grand and Vistre, near the Garrigues hills, or beginning of

Petit Temple (a Protestant church was founded as the Cevennes range. Some think it was founded

early as 1559, by G. Moget); and a synagogue in by the Marseilles Greeks; the Romans, however,

Rue Rousny. who took it, 121 B.C., and called it Nemausus, were

An Hôtel Dieu, founded 1313, by Raymond Rosi, its greatest benefactors, and, under Agrippa, built

was rebuilt 1830; Richard's large hôpital, for old the baths, aqueduct (from Pont du Gard), &c.;

people, foundlings, and lunatics, was founded 1686, while Antonine, whose ancestors were natives,

and enlarged 1811. The Palais de Justice, in the constructed the amphitheatre. It was then two or

classical style (after the Propylæa at Athens), was three times larger than now. The Vandals (407),

built 1826, on the site of Plotinus's Roman basilica Saracens (720-7), and others, so reduced it by their

near the railway station and Cours Feuchéres. ravages, that, in 1336, it had only a population of Maison Centrale de Detention (house of detention), 400. It was a sort of republic, under consuls, &c.,

on the site of Vauban's citadel and Fort de Rohan. from 1226 till 1555, when it was finally joined to serves for 13 departments, and has room tor 1,200, the French crown.

The bibliothèque of 40,000 volumes and MSS., is The best general view of Nismes is from the hill, connected with the cabinet of natural history. On near the barracks, or from the Tour Magne, which the site of the Recollets convent is the Theatre, by overlooks a vast range of country. The old town, Meunier, with an Ionic portico of 16 pillars. Not or Cité, is a heap of small dirty streets, surrounded far from this is one of the great antiquarian treaby the Grand Cours and the faubourgs of the sures of the city, the modern town; this Cours, on the site of the boule- Maison Carrée (i.e., Square House), the commot vards, is well planted, and set off with delightful name of a beautiful Temple, founded either by gardens. In Cours Feuchères, near the station, is | Augustus or Agrippa (the inscription being gone), A handsome fuuniain, erected 1847; and on the and thought to have been part of the public foram,

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