Imagens das páginas

Beaugency (41 miles), which stands above the At one time Chambord belonged to Stanislaus of embankment of the Loire (here crossed by a bridge Poland; then to Marshal Saxe, the victor at of 26 arches), and has, besides part of its old for Fontenoy, who amused himself by playing at tified walls, the great keep of a very ancient castle,

soldiers and training horses, and died here. 122 feet high, and about 70 square. It has suffered Afterwards it came to the Polignacs, and the in almost every contest from the invasion of the Prince of Wagram (Marshal Berthier), of Huns (451) downwards. Roman coins have been whose widow it was bought, 1820, for the found. The Hôtel de Ville is in the Renaissance Duke of Bordeaux (now Count de Chambord, style. Excellent wine, brandy, &c., are produced. or Henry V. as he is called), by his friends. Population, 5,050.

At present its 440 rooms are deserted, but it is Hotels.-De la Forêt; Du Grand Cerf (Stag). in course of reparation, though unfurnished, Near the Château d'Avary stands an immense

except a few busts, &c. The Bourgeois Gentildolmen.--At 5 kil. east is Lailly, where Condillac is

homme was first acted here, 1670, before Louis buried.

XIV.) Pass the Tavors viaduct, on 12 arches, to

At 53 miles further, is Mer (7} miles), among the vineyards and country

BLOIS. houses, in department Loire-et-Cher. Population, 4,200.

A buffet, 111} miles from Paris. Ask for the Menars (7 miles), or Ménars-le-Château, has a

Crème de St. Gervais. fine Château of the 17th century (with beautiful

Hotels.—D'Angleterre; De Blois; Château Tête tcrraces on the river), which, having belonged to

Noire. Madame de Pompadour and M. de Broglie, is now

OBJECTS OF NOTICE.--Castle-Salle-desthe property of Prince de Chimay, who, in 1832,

Etats-Cathedral-Allée Promenade. established the Prytaneum here (now called École

1 Population, 20,330. A fine old town, the chief Professionelle), where theoretical and practical

place of department Loir-et-Cher, in the old proeducation are carried on together.

vince of Orléanais, on the river Loire, beautifully At kil. to the south-east, is the Château de

seated on a hill slope, and joined to Vienne by a Chambord, on the Casson, in the middle of a

stone bridge of 11 arches, which bends much in the great forest, where the deer and wild boar are iniddle, where stands a pyramid, 60 feet high. A found. Francis I. began to build it (on a site quay of great length fronts the river. It was the of a hunting-seat of the counts of Blois), after

head of a county which came to our King Stephen, the designs of Primaticcio; and, as completed

through his mother Adela, the Conqueror's daughby his successors, it makes a quadrangle, in ter, and now belonging the title, at least) to the the Renaissance style, with great high peaked Orléans family. It was occupied by the Germans, towers at the corners (60 feet diameter), a December, 1870, in their progress westward. central tower and dome, 106 feet high, under The streets are narrow, steep, and winding. At which is the double staircase, besides a chapel,

the top of the hill, above the old town, stands the erected in 1854, picture galleries, &c. The royal Castle (now used as a barrack), where Henry front contains a great many windows, divided III. compassed the murder of the Duke of Guise by pilasters and small columns, above which (La Balafré) an ! his brother the Cardinal, in 1588. rises a picturesque beap of turrets and

The Duke was killed in the Queen's chamber, close chimneys. Some parts are richly carved, and

to the cabinet of Henry, and his body burnt, two the F. and salamander (for Francis I.*), the

days after, and thrown into the river. The north H. and D. (for Henry II. and Diana of Poitiers)

front was built by Francis J.; east front, in 1498, are noticed.

by Louis XII., who was born here, and from hence

issued the Ordonnance de Blois, which guar: nteed • In a At of jealousy he wruto on one of the windows (DOW

the liberties of the Gallican church; west front, Bouven. tom29 varis

by Gasten, Duke of Orléans, after Mansuds Mal beblle qui s'y fel

| designs. Catherine de Medicis' Observatory is on

the south side, with the words “uraniæ sacrum" on ance from the pestilence, in 1631. Go to the bridge, it, indicative of her astrological propensities. An from which you have a noble view up and down old Gothic touer remains, in which are the oubliettes, the Loire; its vast levées, or embankments, begin or dungeons. Another tower is called Château here. In the neighbourhood are the mineral waters Regnault, because that place (18 miles off) is seen of St. Denis-les-Blois, which are used in summer, from it. The Salle des Etats, where the county and the châteaux of Beauregard and Cheverneydeputies used to meet, is of the 13th century. This, the latter the seat of Marquis de Vibraye. and Francis I.'s Renaissance front, are now re

Manufactures of good gloves, serge, glass, and stored. The latter contains the Museum.

hardware; and trade in wine, vinegar, eaux-de-vie, Near the castle stands the Cathedral of St. Louis, copper, &c. which was once part of the Jesuits' college, and re Conveyances : By coach, to Bracieux (18 kil.), built 1678, in a pseudo Gothic style. The bishopric Château Regnault (23 kil.), Vendôme, St. Calais, was founded only in 1697, to control the Protestants Montrichard Castle (33 kil.), Oucques (27 kil.), who survived the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Romorantin (40 kil., see Route 43), St. Aignan, They were obliged to conform and send their Valençay, Chambord. children to the Convent des Nouvelles Catholiques, From Blois, along the railway to Tours, close by or to go into exile. The bishop's palace was origin- | the north bank of the river, which increases in ally built by Gabriel, for Colbert, the minister, beauty as you descend, you pass who married a Blois lady ; its fine gardens com- Chousy (5 miles); then mand a view of great extent along the river, &c. Onzain (4 miles); opposite which is The préfecture is in Grande Place; here Maria CHAUMONT-SUR-LOIRE, in a delightful spot at the Louisa (with her son), Joseph Bonaparte, &c., met foot of a wooded height, crowned by a fine old châin order to form a regency, in 1814. At the Hôtel teau, which is seen a long distance round. It has de Ville is a library of 17,000 volumes.

been carefully restored by Viconte Walsh, its Other buildings are—the college, or seminary, at owner, and deserves a visit. Madame de Stael reBourg Moyen old abbey, where the two Thierrys tired to it when exiled from Paris, by Napoléon. were educated; hospital, at St. Laumer's old abbey, Limeray (63 miles). the church of which, now being renovated, is al Amboise (37 miles), in department Indre-etcurious building of the 11th and 12th centuries; Loire, away from the line, on the south bank, is theatre and abattoir; lunatic asylum (l'hospice another fine spot, with a château above it. Popudes aliénés). There are also botanic gardens, with lation, 4,860. The Castle, an imposing pile, with many public fountains, supplied by a reservoir its two large towers, stands on the site of a fort,

tside the walls, to which a so-called “Roman" | built (so they say) by Julius Cæsar, who gives aqueduct (styled Pont de César), half a mile long, name to some excavations in the rocks below, called b'ings the water. The best of the fountains, “Greniers de César" (Cæsar's granaries). Charles named after Louis XII., is near the castle. Above VII. began to fortify the castle when forfeiied to the town appears the Beauvoir Tower, the old seat | the crown by the Counts of Berri; and his son of the seignours of that ilk.

Charles V.!!I. was born here, 1470. Here the conOld houses worth notice are Hôtel d'Alluye, in juration d'Ambuise was planned by the Prince de Rue St. Honoré, in which Le Balafré resided; Condé and the Protestant party against the Guises, Hôtel Denis-du-Pont, in Rue Porte Chartraine; who discovered it in time, and took a bloody rePetit Louvre, or Hôtel de Cheverney, in Rue St. venge. The Edict of Amboise, in favour of toleraMartin; Hôtel d'Amboise, in Place du Château, tion, was issued three years later. Napoléon gave once the seat of Cardinal d'Amboise, &c. At it to his colleague, Roger Ducos, who neglected it, Château de St. Lazare, which was a priory, Victor but the chapel was restored by Louis Philippe. Hugo resided with his father, General Hugo. Abd-el-Kader was confined here 1848-52, until

The Allées promenade is of great length, leading | liberated by Louis Napoléon. by the large forest of Blois. Each gate has an The Amasse runs into the Loire, which is crossed image of the Virgin, in remembrance of a deliver- | by two bridges, resting on an island in the middle.


[ocr errors]

Madame de la Vallière was born at Amboise, and I Mont-Louis (f mile), on the south side of the Leonardi da Vinci lived at Clous, near this, before river; followed by St. Pierre-du-Corps (3) his death at Fontainebleau.

miles); and 24 miles further is Hotels.Du Lion d'Or (Golden Lion); Cygne ; Faisan.

TOURS. The châteaux of Chanteloup (1 kil.) and Chenon A buffet, 1468 miles from Paris, 121from Nantes, ceaux (4 kil.) are near.

61 from Le Mans, 121* from Bordeaux. The em(LOCHES (25 kil. south), an old town and sous

barcadère is in the Mail. There is a bifurcation at préfecture (5,300 population) in department

St. Pierre-le-Corps. Omnibuses to all the hotels. Indre-et-Loire, agreeably placed on the Indre,

HOTELS.-Hotel de l'Univers, one of the best the arms of which are crossed by a line of

first class hotels in France. bridges to Beaulieu. Above it, on a rock,

Hotel du Faisan.--A house very highly spoken stands the picturesque remains of the Castle,

of; in a good situation. older than the ninth century, and now used as

Grand Hotel d'Angleterre...Situated in the pleaa gaol. King John gave it up to France, but

santest part of the town; good and exceedingly Caur-de-Lion retook it, 1194, though it was

comfortable. taken back, 1205. Louis XI. made it a state

The buffet at the station is good. prison, and confined Cardinal Balue in one of

French Protestant church here. its oubliettes, or iron cages, which the Cardinal

Post Office, Rue de Scellerie. had invented; Philip de Comines, the historian,

IT OBJECTS OF NOTICE.--The Bridge-Cathewas also a prisoner. This was in the great

dral-Château-Palais de Justice-Hôtel Gouin machicolated round tower. Its neighbour, the Statue of Descartes-Plaises-les Tours. square Donjon tower, is 130 feet high, in four Population, 42,450. An ancient town, the capital stories. That part called Charles VII.'s châ

of department Indre-et-Loire, seat of a military teau (now the Mairie), was the seat of his mis

division, of an archbishop, college, &c., in a flat tress, the beautiful and amiable Agnes Sorel;

but pleasant part of the Loire, on a tongue of land its terrace commands a fine prospect; and in

between it and the Cher. Several English families one of the pointed towers is the mausoleum of

reside here on account of the cheapness of living Agnes, brought here, 1809, from the ancient

and its agreeable climate. church of Notre Dame, or St. Ours. The latter,

It was the Roman Cæsarodunum, and the head of founded as far back as 450, and rebuilt in the

the Turones; afterwards of Neustria, &c.; and of 11th century, is worth notice for its four

the county of Touraine, which was held by the towers, 164 feet high, and an eight-sided

Plantagenets till Philippe Auguste took it from vaulted roof, 85 feet from the ground. Money

King John, 1202. The States-General were sumwas struck here, as well as at Tours and

moned here in the 15th century, when the Leaguers Chinon. Linens and woollens are made.

held possession of Paris; they met in St. Julien's Hotels.-De France ; De la Promenade.

abbey, Paris. It had a mint for coining "livres

Tournois," or franc pieces, and still has one, rankCoaches to Tours, Châteauroux, &c. In the

ing fifth (or letter E). Louis XI. established the neighbourhood are Loches forest, Liget Char

silk manufacture here, and built his famous treuse, which Henry II. founded to Becket's

château, Plessis-les-Tours (in which he died, 1483), memory, Chenonceaux château, &c.]

close by (2 kil.); parts of it are left, including his Noisay (34 miles).

and Cardinal Balue's chambers and a brick donjon. Vernou ((2miles).

It became the seat of the French Government in Vouvray (24 miles), near the châteaux of Mont- September, 1870, when M. Crémieux and the contour and Rochcorbon. Here the line bends to foreign ambassadors moved from Paris upon its the river, and crosses it by a handsome viaduct, 85 investment by the Germans. Gambetta arrived feet high, 1,167 feet long, on 12 arches of 81 feet here in October, after escaping from the capital pan to

in a balloon, and proceeded to raise the provinces. It surrendered to the German armies December 21, | The famous abbey church, founded, 347, by St. when the Government retreated to Bordeaux. Martin de Tours, being burnt, 561, was restored

Twelvé gates surround the town, the old walls by St. Gregory de Tours, and survived till the of which are replaced by a planted boulevard Revolution, when it was pulled down, except two called “Boulevart Beranger" and the " Mail;" towers, one called Tour de Charlemagne, the other beyond are the four faubourgs of la Priche, St. used as a belfry. Alcuin was one of its abbots. St. Eloi, &c. A fifth, St. Symphorien, across the river, Julien's abbey church, of the 11th and 13th cenis joined to the main part by an excellent level turies, after being used as an auberge, is to be stone bridge of 15 arches, each 80 feet span, built restored for public worship. St. Clement's is now 1762-77; it is 1,752 feet long (174 less than the one a corn market. At the barrack in Quai Royal, is at Bordeaux), 48 wide, and 39 above the water. the tower of the old château, built by Henry II. of A little above it are remains of the old bridge, England, from which the Duke of Guise, then a built by the Counts of Touraine; and at equal prisoner, escaped, 1591. distances above and below, are two new suspension

The archbishop's palace, the préfecture, the palais bridges, one resting on l! Entrépont, the other on

de justice, with its eight-column portico, are large Ile St. Simon. Two other bridges, of 17 and 8

and handsome structures. In the Préfecture is the arches, cross the Cher, in the neighbourhood of

bibliothèque of 40,000 volumes, besides valuable Tours.

MSS. and illuminations; open 12 to 4, Tuesday to From the end of the great bridge, where the

Friday; and at the Museum, in the Hôtel de Ville, Hôtel de Ville stands, the principal street, Rue is a collection of 200 pictures, specimens of natural Royale, runs through for half a mile to the Poitiers

history, antiquities, &c. There are also a college, Road; straight, wide, and bordered with pavements, a large general hospital, botanic garden, publ c and good three-storey houses, of white stone, with baths, and a theatre, near the post-office. M. Gouin, slated roofs. Most of the hotels and cafés are here, formerly minister of commerce, lives in Louis At the bridge end is Nieuwerkerke's statue of XI.'s old Gothic chancellerie, Hôtel Gouin, in Rue Descartes, bearing for its motto, “ Cogito, ergo sum," de Commerce, which he has restored. Another ("I think, therefore, I exist "). The old streets house, in Rue des Trois Pucelles, is called Maison out of Rue Royale, are narrow and dirty, but de Tristans l'Hermite ; but it is not so old as contain some ancient buildings. One of the foun

Louis XI.'s provost-marshal. They show in the tains (de Baune), in the market-place, is a Gothic

town a block of stone (a remnant of some Roman obelisk, with many carvings on it. Promenades

building), said to be the tomb of Turnus, its are laid out on the quays; and in the neighbour

reputed founder. A Roman wall and an amphihood. fruit gardens, vineyards, and corn-fields are theatre have been traced. by M. Courtigis. A+ St. seen.

Radegonde (3 kil.) are some remains of MarmouSt. Gatien's Gothic Cathedral, begun in the 12th

tier's abbey, founded in the 4th century. century, was finished 1550; and therefore com

Tours is the native place of Destouches, the comic prises specimens of the Romanesquc and Gothic styles in different stages, besides that of the later

writer; Duchesne, the geographer; Heurteloup, Renaissance in the tower. It has a wide, richly

the mayor; Alfred de Vigny, &c. The famous carved west front, with a triple porch, a rose

Battle of Tours was fought, 732, some think at Mire window, and two towers, 260 feet high, ornamented

(15 kil. south-west), near Artanes; here Charles with statues and bas-reliefs (some grotesque),

Martel (i.e., Charles the Hammer) defeated Abd-eland built, they say, by Henry V. of England. It

rahman and his Saracen hosts, who, having conis worth while to mount the escalier royal for the

quered Spain, had thus far overrun France. But view from the north tower. In the interior, which

for this check, “the Koran (says Gibbon) might is 262 feet long and 88 high, are some beautiful

have been taught in the schools of Oxford to a stained windows, a fine choir, and the tomb of

circumcised people." Charles VIII.'s two children. Some good carvings

Manufactures of silk stuffs, or gros de Tours, are seen in the cloisters.

which flourished till the revocation of the Edict of Nantes (when the population fell from 80,000 to , is in sight. Coaches to Chinon (see Route 36), 33,000), ribbons, lace, carpets, muslins, &c.

Courcoué, Latour-St.-Gelin, Ligneil, L'Isle-BouBy railway to Angers and Nantes, as in Route | chard, Richelier, St. Espain. 36; and to Le Mans, as in Route 39. Also by

At Isle-Bouchard (13 kil.), near the Vienne, is rail to Vierzon, up the Cher, 113 kil. It another dolmen, and the curious Romanesque chapel passes Veretz (12 kil.). Then Chenon. |

of St. Leonard. ceaux (20 kil.), near a château in good condi

[RICHELIEU (25 kil. south-west), on the Amable, tion, on a bridge over the Cher, near the abbey

belonged to the father of Armand du Plessis, church of Aiguesvives. It belongs to Vicomte

the famous Cardinal Richelieu, whose seat here, René de Villeneuve, and was the seat of his

which he enlarged and beautified, was pulled

down at the Revolution. It was made the head grandmother, Madame Dupin, who died here, in peace, 1799 ; Montrichard (7 kil.), once

of a dukedom, 1631, and the town was rebuilt fortified; St. Aignan-Noyer (18 kil.), an by him a little while after.] old town on the Cher (population, 2,770),

Port-de-Piles (64 miles), on the Creuse.

[HAYE-DESCARTES (7 miles south-east), higher un founded by the abbots of St. Martin de Tours, having cloth works and an ancient tower,

the river, so called (since 1802) from the philocalled Tour d'Agar, of a castle, built 1019, by sopher, Descartes, who was born here, 1591i. the counts of Blois. Selles-sur-Cher (9 kil.);

They show the house, with his bust, &c. To Mennetou-sur-Cher (17 kil.); and Vierzon

the east of it is Gralmoont, the old seat of (16 kil., as in Route 43).]

Louis XI.'s gossip, Tristan l'Hermite.]

Les Ormes (3 miles), in department Vienne, has ROUTE 35–Continued. a fine château of the Argensons, surmounted by a

column 80 feet high, with a staircase in it, whence Towards Poitiers and Bordeaux.

there is a wide prospect over the Vienne, &c. Four trains, in 7 to 10 hours. Leaving

[At PREUILLY (33 kil. south-east), beyond the Tours, you pass to the great viaduct across the Vienne, are the remains of the castle of tlie valley of the Indre, 31,120 feet long, 70 high, on 57

Premier Barons of Touraine, and a good abley arches.

church, founded 1001. Population, 2,370.] Monts (81 miles), on the Indre. Coaches to Ar Dange (2 miles), on the Vienne. tannes (near the field of Miré, as above mentioned.)

Ingrandes (5 miles) up the same river. (MONTBAZON (5 kil. east), up the Indre, has an

[GUERCHE (13 kil. east), on the Creuse, has the

château of Agnes Sorel, and a church of the old castle, built in the 11th century, by

16th century.] Foulques de Néra, Count of Anjou. Near it

Châtellerault (6 miles), a sous-préfecture in are Couziers Château, where Louis XIII. was

department Vienne (population, 14,210), and seat of reconciled to his mother, Catherine de Medicis, and the Ripault powder and sugar works.]

the government arms-factory. Here about 20,000

fire-arms, and 3,500 armes blanches, i.e., swords and Villeperdue (5] miles). A little beyond is the

bayonets, are made yearly. Inferior cutlery, grindold village of Ste. Catherine-de-Fierbras (so called

stones, paste diamonds, &c., are branches of local from Guillaume Fier-à-bras, or strong arm, Count trade on the Vienne, which a good bridge crosses, of Poitou), near the château of Comonacre, or

with an old four-turreted gate at one end. It Comacre, whither Joan of Arc went, 1429, to fetch

stands among pleasant hills and gardens, and has the sword of Charles Martel, with which he slew the Gothic church of St. Jean, a salle-de-spectacle, the infidels. The Marquis de Lussac is proprietor.

&c. The Duke of Hamilton claims to be Duke of The church is in the Renaissance style of Francis I.

Châtellerault, through the title conferred on his St. Maure (70 miles) on a branch of the Vienne ancestor, the Regent Arran, for negociating the called the Manse, which is traversed by a short marriage of Mary Stuart. viaduct, 112 feet high, on 15 arches. There is a | Hotels.-De l'Esperance (the lope); De la Tête dolmen of six stones here. The old Château de Brau | Noire.

« AnteriorContinuar »