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A Viaduct of 90 yards, to
Cæsar's time, and was made a free town by the Commercy (31 miles), a sous-préfecture, with German Emperors. A bridge of seven archc3 4,012 inhabitants, in a pleasant fertile spot on the crosses the Moselle. Its citadel capitulated to the Meuse, well built, with public fountains, an Hôtel Germans, 23rd September, 1870, with 2,430 men. de Ville (formerly a convent), barracks and There are here the old Cathedral, begun by St. riding-house. The cavalry barracks was once the Gerard, 965, with a fine roof and two very picturseat of Stanislaus of Poland and Cardinal de Retz, esque towers, 246 feet high-both, as well as tho who wrote his Memoirs here.
whole front, rose-window, &c., profusely carved; Hotels. De la Cloche d'Or (Gold Bell); De la the church (Roman and Gothic) and fine cloisters Poire d'Or (Gold Pear). Coaches to Void, &c. of St. Gengoult; the Hôtel de Ville, once the
Sorcy (5 miles), on the Meuse, has traces of St. bishop's palace; a college, barracks, corn market, Martin's Abbey, and, on a hill near it, remains of &c. a Roman camp. Tunnel of 1,870 feet, to
Marshal St. Cyr, Baron Louis, the financier, and Pagny-sur-Meuse (3 miles), the station for Admiral Rigny, were natives. Another was St. Vancouleurs, &c., to which a line is in progress, to Loup, once bishop. Indeed, Toul has provided so join that from Neufchâteau, on the Troyes line
many episcopal personages, that it was called Toul la (Route 62).
Sainte. Population, 7,700, who make embroidery, (VAUCOULEURS (20 kil.) on the Meuse, ascending pottery, &c.
which you pass into department Vosges, a little Hotel.-De l'Europe. before
Fontenoy-sur-Moselle (54 miles). The line DOMREMY-LA-PUCELLE (18 kil.), a small hamlet crosses the river here, by a seven-arched bridge. of 316 souls, over the Meuse, on the Vosges
Liverdun (51 miles), a decayed fortress, on a hills, famous as the place where Joan of Arc,
rocky and wooded height, over the Moselle, with the Maid of Orléans, was born 1412, in a little
many good points of view. It was a Roman stacottage, shown by an inscription over it. Her tion and contains some curious old buildings. In real name, as M. Huldut of Nancy contends, the church is an effigy of St. Eucaire, the martyr, was Jeanne Darc, which was altered to d'Arc, whose cross stands in the village. Here the Marne when her family was enobled by Charles VII. and Rhine canal, after traversing a tunnel of 550 after her death. A school for girls has been yards in hard chalk, crosses the Moselle by an built to her honour, besides a fountain, with a aqueduct, and is itself skipped over by the railcast of her beautiful statue, sculptured by way, which also crosses the river twice more, in Louis Philippe's daughter, Marie, with which this neighbourhood, on bridges of five arches. all the world is familiar.
Frouard (41 miles), at the base of the hills, has Neufchâteau (11 kil.), the ancient Neomagus, a handsome bridge, and was once a fortified post.
is a sous-préfecture of 3,524 inhabitants, under Across the river is the old church of Pompey, and the hills on the Meuse, where the Meuzon remains of Avant-Garde Castle. Vases, &c., hare joins. It has an Hôtel de Ville, and public been found at the Champ de Tombes, near St. library of 8,000 volumes.
Eucaire's hermitage; they are now in Nancy CONTREXEVILLE, 18 kil. south-east, in a valley museum. of the Vair, has some noted mineral waters. At Frouard the Meurthe joins the Moselle, and Those of Bourbonne, Plombières, &c., are also the branch rail to Metz, &c., parts off (see Route 57). in this neighbourhood (see Route 62).]
At 54 miles further, ascending the Meurthe, is Through another tunnel of 3,675 feet, and the
NANCY. valley of Ingressin, to
A buffet, 220 miles from Paris, 99% miles from Foug (34 miles), in department Meurthe; once
Strasbourg. a fortified town,
HOTELS. - Hotel d'Angleterre, a comfortable Toul (3miles), an old town and military post house, not far from the Railway Station. of the fourth class, formerly seat of a diocese. It Hotel de France, in every respect a good, firstwas the head of the Leuci, in Belgic Gaul, in rate house; strongly recommended.
[Sec. 5. Hotel de l'Europe ; very good hotel, comfortable painters ; the bishop's seat and the salle de and clean; moderate charges.
spectacle, &c., all in a uniform Italian style. OBJECTS OF NOTICE.-Ducal Palace; Corde- A bronze figure of Stanislaus, put up, 1823, lier's Church-Hôtel de Ville in Place Royale ornaments the centre, where the pillory once stood; Cathedral.
handsome iron gates are placed at the corners, and Population, 50,000.
there is a promenade out of one side (past the founCapital of department Meurthe (formerly of pro tains), called the Pepinière. A large fountain ocvince of Lorraine), seat of a diocese, cour impé
cupies the Place d'Alliance; here stands riale, &c., near the Meurthe, in a fertile plain,
The Cathedral, a modern edifice, built 1703-42, under some low hills, covered with forests and
copied from S. Andrea della Valle, at Rome. It vineyards, and one of the best built towns of France. It was founded in the 11th century by
has two towers, 256 feet high in its front, which is the Dukes of Lorraine, one of whom was René II.,
154 feet broad, a mixture of the Corinthian and
Composite styles; a dome near the sanctuary is who obtained a famous victory over Charles the
51 feet across, painted by Jacquart. Notre Dame Bold, of Burgundy, in 1477, outside the town; and
de Bon Secours church, in Faubourg St. Pierre, on another was Stanislaus of Poland, who greatly improved it, and left the duchy to his father-in.
the Lunéville road, was rebuilt 1738, by Stanislaus
(whose tomb by Adam is here), on the site of one law, Louis XV., at his death, 1766.
The old Palace of the Dukes in the Vieille Ville, or founded by René, over the spot where his adversary Old Town, late a barrack, with its rich gateway, was
fell, 1477: it contains some old standards taken burnt down 1871. By this gate is a smaller door,
from the Turks. called Porte Masco, after a bear once kept here, At the Palais de Justice they shew the tapestry who took a fancy to pet a child which strayed into found in Charles the Bold's tent; it is about 80 his den. Here the provincial Museum is kept. In feet long and 13 feet high, with the history of this quarter also are St. Epvre's Gothic church, Esther and Ahasuerus worked in it. St. Jean's which has a bas-relief (the Lord's Supper, 1592), I chapel belonged to the Knights of St. John. Close by Drouin, a native; and the Cordeliers' church, to it is the Protestant temple. A library of 26,000 built 1477-84, by René II., which contains his tomb | volumes is at the Hôtel de l'Université. There (1515) with those of Cardinal Vaudémont (by are also a college, a priests' seminary, large bosDrouin), Antoine de Vaudémont, Philippa of pitals, a deaf and dumb asylum (at Cæur en Côte, Gueldres (by Richier), Henry of Vaudémont and his where the heart of Louis XV.'s queen was handed wife, and a warrior,---besides Gerard I. and his wife, over to the Lorraine clergy), new barracks, a Hadwige, in the round (or octagon) chapel, restored society of arts and sciences, and botanic gardens by France and Austria, since the ravages made in (both founded by Stanislaus), an exchange, &c. 1793. All these are in Grand Rue, which connects Near the Citadel are the old pinnacled Tours de Cours Léopold with the Pepinière in the Ville
la Caraffe (or Notre Dame), built 1430. At BonNeuve.
donville, in the suburbs, is a cross to which The Place de Grève leads to the Cours d'Orléans,
pilgrimages are made; here, too, is the best wine and the Porte Neuve (or New Gate), built 1785, on
about Nancy (Côte des Chanoines). Nancy is the the Metz road, with the Place Carrière (where the chief head-quarters of several female religious fair is held once a pond) in which stand the Cour
societies, as the Sisters of Christian doctrine, Royale, the tribunal of commerce, and the Préfec Sisters of St. Charles, and Sisters of Providence, ture, a large old building. The last is opposite the which three number about 1,000 houses, in France arch of triumph, leading to the Place Royale (or Some of its natives are Marshal Bassompière, Stanislaus), the best part of the New Town, which General Druot, Maimbourg, the historian, Hoffman was begun by Charles III., in 1603, and carried the critic, Isabey and Grandville, the painters, t out with an effect suitable to the capital of a pro Druot accompanied Napoléon to Elba; his statrai vinge. Here are the Hôtel de Ville, with Girardet's in Cours Léopold. Another native was Callot, the frescoes, and a collection of Flemish and other engraver, whose old house is in Rue Callot. Map
factures of cotton cloth, woollen serges, muslins, Girardet, the painter, Chevalier Bouffleurs, and embroidery, &c., are carried on here.
General Haxo, were born here. The treaty of
Hotels.—Du Sauvage ; De la Tète d'Or (Golden
described). Rail to St. Dié, &c., 38 miles.
préfecture of 26,000 souls, on the Seille, so miles), under a rocky height, having a crystal called after a castle, built 1342, by Isabella of
factory; Raon l'Etape (54 miles), in the Austria, near the salines or salt-works. Great
Vosges mountains, with a castle and monastery, quantities of salt are now got at Vic (5 kil.), and a good timber trade; to St. Dié (10) Moyen-Vic (6 kil. south-south-east), and
miles), as in Route 60.]
Emberménil (10 miles), was the cure of Abbé
Avricourt (5 miles), 255 miles from Paris, on up the Meurthe, to
the new German frontier. This, with Raon l'Etape, Varangeville - St. Nicholas-du-Port (71
on the Donon hills, was given back to France, by
the late convention of 12th October, 1871. For the miles), two places on opposite sides of the river the latter having a fine Gothic church, built 1491.
rest of the line to Strasbourg, Colmar, and Mühl
w's Hand-Book to the Rhine. 1544, with light pillars 92 feet high, and towers to match. Many pilgrims visit it on the Monday of Hereabouts, short rails turn off to Dicuze Pentecost. A. Joly, a painter of the last century, (north) and Cirey (south). The rail to Cirey was born here. Population of both, 4, 120.
passes Foulcrey (2} miles), Blamont (31 miles), Rosières-aux-Salines (31 miles), before which
to Cirey (53 miles; passing over the new German you leave on the left, Dombasle (2 kil.), where a
boundary. branch of the Moselle falls into that stream, passing
ROUTE 55. a ruined château on the top of the hill. Population, 2,360. Several old houses at Rosières, and a stud of Epernay to Reims, Mézières, and Belgium. horses, in an old salt-works; also a synagogue. | Distance by rail, 734 miles. Four trains daily;
Blainville-la-Grande (34 miles), on the Mo- mail, 44 hours. This is one of the Ardennes Comselle; sometimes called Blainville-sur-Eau, from
dany's lines. a rapid which turns a few mills. Here the branch
Epernay Station, on Paris and Strasbourg line, rail to Epinal turns off (see Route 59).
as in Route 54. Leaving this, the line crosses the Lunéville (59 miles), a sous-préfecture in de
Marne, on a four-arched bridge, and is still further partment Meurthe, with 15,530 inhabitants, in a
continued on two other bridges or archways (to fertile spot on the Meurthe, where the Vezouze
save it from the inundations of the river), and on joins, was at first a hunting-seat, and was taken by
two skew bridges over the canal, to Marsbal Longueville, 1638, and the fortifications pulled down. At the old palace of the Dukes of
Ai, or Ay (2 miles), where the best Mousseux Lorraine, the Emperor Francis I. was born; it is
wines are grow:1. Population, 3,300. Marcuil is now a cavalry depôt. There are also a large riding
the seat of the Marquis de Montebello. At house and stores, a champ de Mars, a fountain in Avenay ( } miles), is the church of an ancient Place Neuve, a church, built 1750, with two towers, | abbey, founded in the 7th ceutury. Thc line, after
in which is the tomb of Voltaire's friend, Madame windinz among forests and hills, passes & long Me Châtelet, and a new church, opened 1854,
tunnd of nearly 25 miles, to
Rilly-la-Montagne (74 miles), and its old, which has Cartellier's bronze copy of Pigalle's church, at the foot of a hill. Then 7} miles further, Louis XV. (who greatly improved this old city),
and the ancient Hôtel des Fermes. Place Godinot REIMS, or Rheims,
takes its name from a canon of the last century, 107 miles from Paris,
who built a châleau d'eau for supplying water,
now furnished by a new reservoir (by Cordier, Where the junction from Tergnier and Laon falls
1843), in Place de la Tour-du-Puits. An old founin (see Route 6). HOTELS.-Lion d'Or, very good hotel, recom
tain, by Couston, the sculptor, stands in Place St.
Nicaise, where a very old church stood, till demended to English travellers. Mr. Disant, pro
stroyed at the Revolution. One gate, called the prietor.
Porte de Vesle, an iron arch, leads out to the Grand Hotel du Commerce; De la Maison Rouge du
Cours, a well-planted walk by the river, as far as Palais. Reims, though a sous-préfecture only (in de
Porte de Laon. Close to the latter (built in the
wall), is the Porte de Mars, a genuine Roman relic. partment Marne), has a population of 60,740, is the seat of an archbishop, and one of the oldest cities
It was a triumphal arch, built by Agrippa, in in France, having been the chief town of Cham
honour of Cæsar Augustus, with three openings in
it, and eight Corinthian columns, all much worn. pagne. American Consul here.
An amphitheatre may be traced at the Mont de IT OBJECTS OF NOTICE.--Cathedral-Old Walls
Arènes, near it. But its finest ornament is the -Church of St. Remé-Hotel de Ville--Port de
noble Gothic Mars-Maison Rouge.
Cathedral, covered with a multitude of figures It stands on the Vesle, at the bottom of gently
and ornaments, and built, for the most part, 1212-42, sloping chalk-hills, covered with vineyards, though
by Robert de Coucy, on the site of one founded as the neighbourhood is dull. It was the capital of
early as 360-400. The transept (164 feet long) was the Remi, in Belgic Gaul, and called Durocortorum rebuilt after a fire, in 1491. Length, 467 feet; by the Romans, whose consul here, Jovinus, became
breadth, 98 feet; height, 118 feet. The richly a Christian, 366. Clovis and his Franks were bap
beautiful front has a triple portal (the middle one tised here, 496. It was taken by Charles Martel,
| being 39 feet wide), a large stained rose window, 719, and by Hugh Capet's rival, Charles of Lor
bas-reliefs of the Passion, the Judgment, Crowning raine, 900; besieged by Edward III. of England,
of the Virgin, David and Goliath, Baptism of Clovis, 1359, and captured, 1421, by the English, who were,
and from 530 to 550 statues of various sizes, in at length, driven out by the Maid of Orléans; and
rows, besides a row of 35 niched prelates near the Charles VII. crowned here, as were all the French top; above which rise the two towers, made of sovereigns from Philippe Auguste down to Charles open pillars and windows, and ending in a heap of X. (except Henry IV. and Louis XVIII.) The little turrets, instead of the spires which they were ampulla, or vessel of consecrated oil, used at the
designed to carry. One tower (the south), a little coronations, was destroyed at the great Revo
shorter than the others, was not finished till 1480. lution.
and has the bells of a clock as old as 1570, with It was taken by the Allies, 1814. In 1870, the moving figures, &c. Going in, you see about 90 King of Prussia entered the city with his forces, niched statues inside the doors; the windows are 5th September, on his march to Paris; and, after
richly stained with figures of apostles, kings, &c. the conclusion of peace, 1871, it became for a In the nave (which had a painted ceiling of lilies, time the head-quarters of the German army of | on a blue ground, when Charles X. was crowned) occupation.
is the very curious marble tomb of Jovinus, the Parts of the Gothic walls, with their turrets, Roman consul, carved over with a lion hunt, and still remain; the streets are wide, and most of the brought from St. Nicaise's church, “An. VIII. de houses one storey high, but it has a dull look, with la Republique," or 1800. Nine chapels surround grass growing in the streets. Of fourteen open the choir, which has a rich altar, the canopy of St. places, the largest is Place Royale, built 1756, Nicaise's churoh, a large organ, 64 feot high, and
Poussin's painting of the Israelites gathering lodged at the cost of the city authorities." At Manna, with others by Titian and Tintoretto. the English college for priests here, the Rheims
The church of St. Remi, or Remigius, was built version of the New Testament was published, 1041-60, as part of Archbishop Turpin's Benedictine 1582. In the old house of Long Vétre, in Rue abbey, being older than the cathedral, and the de Cères, Colbert, the statesman, was born 1619, the place where the early kings were consecrated. It son of a wine merchant. When he wanted, afteris a mixture of Norman and pointed Gothic in the wards, to make one of his sons Grand Bailly of the style, and 361 feet long, with a plain front, having Order of Malta, for which four descents of nobility five portals and a rose window, between two slender were required, he proceeded in this way. He fabritowers with slated spires. It contains a modern cated an epitaph for a pretended ancestor, Richard copy of the tomb of St. Remi, ornamented by Colbertby, a Scotchman. To get this placed in the marble life-size statues of the twelve premier Cordeliers' church, where several of his family lay peers of France (the Count of Champagne and the buried, he bribed the guardian with the promise of archbishop are two), saved from an older tomb. a bishopric (which he never got), and here the The pavement is done with mosaic figures from the epitaph was to be seen till the Revolution. In Bible; and ten pieces of tapestry (the life of St. Rue du Marc, Pluche, who wrote the Spectacle de Remi) line the walls. Several kings and bishops la Nature, was born. Gobelins, who gives name to were buried in this church, which has lately been the tapestry, and Marshal Drouet d'Erlon (to restored. Here the procession of the herring used
| whom there is a statue), were also natives. Trade to take place on Holy Wednesday. Each canon in Champagne wines, corn, &c., and woollens, trailed a herring after him, and it was his business which are spun here. It is the "original seat" of to tread on the one belonging to the man before pain d'épice, or gingerbread. him, while he did his best to prevent his own being The trade in Champagne at Reims reaches 30 trodden on by the next following.
million francs yearly; and 600,000 bottles are The Gothic churches of St. Andrew and St. usually stored away in the chalk cellars of MM. Thomas are both modern.
Moet, Cliquot, and other proprietors. It sells from The Hôtel de Ville (which a new street joins to 2 to 4 francs a bottle on the spot, according to Place Impériale), begun 1627, and enlarged 1825, quality ; but the inferior sorts drunk here is as low Ponsists of a centre and wings (one new), 200 feet
as lid. a bottle; the local consumption being ong, ornamented with 68 pilasters, and bas-reliefs
reckoned at 84 bottles a head. Of the four million 'at the middle) of Louis XIII. Here are placed bottles of sparkling Champagne exported from the
bottles of sparkling Cha he cartulaire, or collection of archives; the biblio whole department, upwards of half-a-million finds hèque or library of 32,000 volumes, besides 1,500 its way to England, and three-quarters-of-aMSS. and autographs; and a museum of pictures. million to the rest of France; brandy and sugarit the archbishop's palace is a collection of por
candy being added to suit the English and Russian raits of kings and prelates. A new Doric Palais markets. Flowers are greatly cultivated by e Justice was built, 1845, on the site of the Hôtel amateurs and others, among whom may be menDieu; a new covered market, 1840; and an abat tioned M. Souillé, for roses; M. Joltras, for dahlias bir, or slaughter-house, 1838. Reims has a | | M. Rénart, for tulips. ollege, priests' seminary, theatre, public baths, / Sillery is on the road to Chalons. The rail hence otanic garden, chamber of commerce, &c.
to Laon, &c. (see Route 6), was, as well as that A few old buildings are left, as the Hôtel des which we follow, constructed by the Ardennes omtes de Champagne, in Rue du Tambour, Hôtel Company. 2 Joyeuse, near the Hôtel de Ville, Hôtel de | Vitry-les-Reims (54 miles) is near Isle, on the hevreuse, in Rue des Gueux, and the Maison Snippe. ouge Inn (near the cathedral), on which you | Bazancourt (5 miles). ad, “In the year 1429, at the coronation of La Châtelet (7 miles). harles VII., in this inn, then called the Zebra, Cross the Aisne, and the Canal des Ardennes, to e father and mother of Jeanne d'Arc were | Rethel (7} miles), a sous-préfecture of 7,900