Imagens das páginas

The old town adjoining is hemmed in by remains here; Charles VIII, stopped here on his way to

of fortifications. East of it, is the faubourg of Mont St. Michel; and Charles IX. also, about the Guibray, where a celebrated fair, of very time that Montgomerie, the Protestant leader, was ancient date, for horses, &c., is held 15th to imprisoned in it, 1694. He had the misfortune 25th August; and at the bottom stand the to kill Henry II. in a tournay, for which his Italian picturesque quarters of Vallée d'Ante and St. Queen never forgave him. It stood several sieges, Laurent, watered by the small river Ante. the last of which was when Henry IV. took it, The public library contains 4,000 volumes. 1589. Population, 8,920.

Nôtre Dame church, one of the oldest about here, Manufactures of cotton caps, bone-lace, and a

is a ruin. There is a prison built, they say, by the trade in cotton thread, wool, merinoes.

English. The houses are old-fashioned, and the Hotels.-De France; Du Grand Cerf (Stag.)]

streets crooked and steep; the water is bad, but the Vandoeuvres (4 miles).

air is pure, though sharp. Mezidon (2 miles), on the Cherbourg line, as in Route 11. It is 13 miles from Caen.

"Domfront, ville de malheur; arrivè à midi; pendu

a une heure; pas seulement le temps de diner!" ROUTE 17.

(Domfront, a bad place for me! Came at twelve,

hung at one! Not even time for dinner!) This Alengon to Bagnoles, Mortain, Vire, and curious speech, which has become current here, is St. Lo.

attributed to an unlucky Calvanist officer in the Distance, 146 kil., or 91 miles.

religious wars, who, having fallen into the enemy's Alengon, as in Route 16.

hands, was forthwith led to execution by his inhosPREZ-EN-PAIL (24 kil.), noted for its cider, where pitable captors. Iron, glass, and paper works are the road turns off to

near. COUTERNE (18 kil.), to the right of which (5 kil.) MORTAIN (23 kil.), a small town and sous-préfecis the

ture (population, 4,950), in department Manche, on SPA OF BAGNOLES, in a quiet, pretty valley, sur the Cance. The fine remains of its Castle are close rounded by good promenades. The establishment to a pyramid-shaped rock, near a Waterfall of 115 is well managed, lodgings are good, and the season feet, among some picturesque cliffs covered with for taking the waters is between May and Sep shrubs and lichens. The old and curious half tember. They are tonic and purgative; and are Norman church was founded 1082. A road to useful in cutaneous complaints, chronic rheumatism, Avranches here. gout, ulcers, and diseases of the joints. Tem [At 20 kil, north-east is Tinchebray (department perature, 22° Reaumur, or 81° Fahrenheit.

Calvados), on the Noireau, which had a castle Several objects of notice are near, as the châteaux where Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy, of Bermondiére and Couterne, St. Orler chapel, was finally defeated and taken prisoner by his Bonvouloir watch tower, in Audienne Forest, the brother, Henry I. of England, 1106.] iron works of Varennes and Cossé.

SOURDEVAL (10 kil.), on the little river See, DOMFRONT (19 kil. from Couterne), on a rock which works many paper factories in the neighover the Varennes, is now a small sous-préfecture, bourhood, at Beaufigel, Brouhains, &c. Populain department Orne (population 2,900), but was

tion, 4,330. once an important walled town defended by a THORIGNY (25 kil.) has, at the Hôtel de Ville, strong Castle, built by Guillaume de Bellesme, now part of a noble Château (which was mostly dea picturesque ruin. It is near Mont Halouze, one of stroyed, 1789) with some pictures, and a piece of the highest points in this quarter of France. Gobelins tapestry. It is further known for the

William the Conqueror and his sons, Henry I. marbre de Thorigny, a Roman-Gallic relic of the and II., made it their residence; Eleanor of third century, now in the town-house of Caen Guienne, wife of the last, gave birth to a daughter St. LQ is 14 kil, further (see Route 14),


1 ANTRAIN (11 kil.), lower down the stream, where

it joins the Couesnon. Dol (see Route 19) is 24 kil, Laval to Fougères, Pontorson, Mont St.

north-west. Michel, and Avranches.

PONTORSON (12 kil.), at the mouth of the CouesDistance, 110 kil., or 68 miles.

non, in department Manche, an old place, fortified Laval Station, as in Route 15. Hence to Fou by Robert, Duke of Normandy, and nearly all gères by road is 32 miles ; but that place may be

burnt in 1736. The castle of the Montmorencies reached by branch rail, via Vitré, 45 miles.

was pulled down by Louis XIII. Trade in linen

and eggs. LA BACCONNIÈRE (16 kil.)

Population, 2,000. ERNÉE (14 kil.), a pretty, industrious place, on

A road, made 1842, leads to the famous Mont St. the Ernée, which the Vendéan army crossed, 1793,

Michel (9 kil. north), which, as well as AVRANCHES, in their advance northwards. Linens are made.

20 kil. from Pontorson (by way of Pont-aux-Beaux, Population, 6,320.

on the Celune), is described in Route 14. Hotel.-De la Poste. Fougères (21 kil.), a station on the branch rail

ROUTE 19. from Vitré (23 miles), and a handsome, well-built sous-préfecture, in department Ille-et-Vilaine, in

Rennes to Dinan, Dol, and St. Malo. a healthy spot, where several roads join. Popula By rail to St. Malo, 60 miles. tion, 9,500. It was formerly one of the most im

Rennes Station, as in Route 15. This is the portant keys of Brittany, before its union with the

best station to take the road to crown. A point behind the church commands a HÉDÉ (23 kil.), a village, with remains of a Castle, view of the charming valley of the Nonçon, and the

| approached by a causeway, which overlooks a lake old Gothic towers of Raoul de Fougères' ruined

on one side and a brook and several mills on the Château. In the forest, near this, are the Monu

other. Each house has its own pretty garden. ment and Pierre de Trésor (both Druid stones); The direct roads to St. Malo, by St. Pierre de also a subterranean passage called the Celliers de Plesguen (20 kil.) and Châteauneuf (13 kil.), and to Landeau.

Dol, unite here; but we leave them to follow that Vast numbers of sabots, or wooden shoes, are to the south-west, about 20 kil. by Bécherel, to made here; besides which it has manufactures of reach linen and hemp cloths, and a trade in grain, oat

DINAN, meal of well-known quality, beer, honey, &c. A sous-préfecture, in department Côtes-du-Nord,

Hotels.-St. Jacques (James); Des Voyageurs and a fine old town, most picturesquely seated on (Travellers).

å steep granite rock, 200 feet above the Rance, up Rail to Vitré, on the main line. A continuation which river small craft from St. Malo (30 kil.) through Fougères is projected to Pontorson, as come, by taking advantage of the tide, which rises below.

30 to 40 feet, with great suddenness. [About 20 kil. south-west, on the Rennes road, is

Hotels.--De la Poste; De Commerce. ST. AUBIN-DU-CORMIER, in a forest, with its tall,

Hobbs's English Boarding-House picturesque tower of the Castle, built 1222, by Church Service every Sunday. Pierre, Duc de Bretagne. It is celebrated for

Population, 9,150. Dinan was a Roman station the great defeat sustained by Duke Francis II. in the country of the Curiosolites. Duguesclin took (father of Anne of Brittany) and the Duke of it from the English, 1373, and De Clisson again, a Orléans (afterwards Louis XII.), from the few years later. The Leaguers of this part made forces of Charles VIII., commanded by Vicomte it their headquarters, but gave it up to Marshal de la Trémouille, then a young man of 18, in the Brissac, 1598. year 1488.]

Its old walls remain, so thick, that you might BF, BRICE (15 kil.), on the Qisance,

drive a carriage on them; the most outside is planted over. In one part, near Porte St. Louis, is his wife, and turned it into a dispensary, &c., for the tall machicolated donjon, built 1300, by Duchess | the benefit of the poor.-Chesnan, in the forest of Anne, now serving for a prison.

Coëtquen, was the seat of Abbé F. De Lamennais. Like all old towns, Dinan has many narrow dark Corseul (4 kil. north-west) was the capital of the strecte, of old-fashioned wooden houses ; but the

Curiosolites, a Gaulic people, where remains of a more modern ones are built of granite. Place

temple of Mars (30 feet high), Roman epitaphs, Duguesclin is the site of a combat in 1359, between

altars, pieces of columns, coins, bronzes, &c., have that warrior and a “ Thomas of Canterbury." His

been found. Many of the tiles in its walls were statue ornaments one end, and his house stands in

used to repair those of St. Malo. An inscription is Rue de la Croix.

seen on the church; and a Roman way may be St. Malo's Gothic Church, with its spire, has vari.

traced. Montafilan château is a ruin.--At St.

Jurat, Quiou, &c. (8 kil. south), fossil shells are our carvings of sacred and profane subjects. That

abundant.-Ganterie (6 kil.) has remains of the of St. Sauveur, is marked by another tall spire, and

Roche-aux-Fées (Fairies' Rock), in granite; ancontains bas-reliefs of the Loves of Psyche, and a

other Druid stone (of quartz rock) is at Lesmonts monument over Duguesclin's heart, brought here

(4 kil.), near Plouer; and a granite menhir of large in 1810, from the Dominican church.

size at St. Samson or Tremblaie (4 kil.) The granite horloge, or clock tower, ends in a spire, near the Hôtel de Ville, which was formerly

A steamer up and down the Rance daily, with an hospice, and holds the public library of 3,000 the tide. Its banks are high and rocky, and in volumes, besides portraits of Duclos the historian,

some parts well wooded. the excellent La Garaye, and the soldiers Dugue

Trade in butter, flax, honey, souliers de pacotille sclin and Beaumanoir. In the museum founded a (shoes for exportation). Coaches to Rennes, St. few years ago by M. Odorici, are three curious old

Malo, Dol, &c. stalues of saints, brought from Plumaudan church.

Following the rail to St. Malo, down the Ille, Two pillars, of a single block of granite each, front

from Rennes (as above) we come to the tribunal. There are also a college, hospital, Belton (8 miles) and salle-de-concert, and a chapel for the English resi St. Germain-sur-Ille (44 miles) near Ille and dents here.

Rance Canal. Then A pretty road leads out to the Coninaie mineral | Montreuil-sur-Ille (54 miles), and springs (1 kil.), in a deep valley: useful in cases of

Combourg (84 miles), near the road to Hédé indigestion, &c.

(10 miles) as above, may be taken. The neighbourhood is exceedingly pleasant,

Bonnemain (41 miles). Here is a cross-road abounding in many charming walks and points of vier. Within a distance of 6 or 8 kil. are the fol

to Dinan, 15 miles. The next station is lowing:

Dol, an old fortified place (population, 4,200), on a At Léhon, or Léon, only 1 kil. off, on a round hill, 1 rock, rising above a marshy inlet of the sea (6 kil. off), are the massive walls and eight round towers of a on the old Norman frontier. It was held by the Castle, built, they say, on the site of a Roman fort, Vendéans, 1793. Some of the houses are granite And rebuilt about 1400. Close by is the Gothic built-in Grand Rue, for instance—but most of chapel of St. Magliore's priory (founded 850, by them are like those at Dinan, having the first Nominoé), where the Beaumanoir family were floor overhanging that on the ground, and supburied. Near St. Esprit and the large lunatic ported by pillars, which thus make an arcade, in asylum (1 kil. west), under the care of the brothers front. The old cathedral church, once the seat of a of St. Jean de Dieu, is a Gothic cross of granite, bishop (from the 6th century) is a large Gothic pile worth notice.

of granite, with high towers, and a fine lofty nave, La Garaye château (2 kil. north-west), in the Re- resting on four-shafted columns. On the sands, paissance style, is the ruined seat of its benevolent at the mouth of the creek is a granite rock called owner, of the last century, wbo retired here with Mont Dol, with a telegraph on it.

About 2 kil, south of Dol, is the Champ Dolent, 1 A sous-préfecture of 10,900 population, third class a Druid stone, consisting of an immense granite fortress, &c., and the best haven in this part of block, 40 feet high, and 30 round at the ground, France, lying in the throat of a difficult bay, at tho below which it sinks 30 feet. - Pontorson (see Rance's mouth, which is five miles across from Route 18) is 19 kil, west.

Pointe de la Verde to Pointe du Decollé, and Dinan (as above), is 20 miles south-west.

covered with rocks above and below water. Dol is the nearest station for Châteauneuf,

The town stands on the Ile d'Aron, joined to 8 miles west.

the main by a solid causeway, called le Sillon, 200 (CHÂTEAUNEUF, On the Rance, in department Ille

yards wide; which often demands repair on aoet-Vilaine, a small old place, defended by a

count of injuries occasioned by the sea. To the

east of the mole (carrying a fixed light), is the fort on Vauban's system, constructed 1777.

Port, which is left dry at low water, but is perAbove is a seat and park, including remains of

fectly safe. The anchorage in the Rade or Roads, the old castle.] From Dol to St. Malo you pass

on the west, is protected by seven forts; one of

which, on I)e Canchée (3 miles out), was built by La Fresnais (5} miles), on to

Vauban; another is on Cezembre; and a third on La Gouesnière, a convenient station from St. Beys Rock, near the bar and the Rocher aux Servan, which may also be reached easily from St. | Anglais. Beacons are placed here and there to Malo.

mark the channels between the rock, some of which (ST. SERVAN, a port and bathing-place, with are 20 to 30 feet high, and bear such names as

12,810 population (many of them English), Crolante, Durand, Benetin, Grandes et Petites separated from St. Malo only by a small bay, | Pointus, Grande Conchée, Pierre aux Normands, which dries at low water, when you may cross | Ronfleresse, Buharats, &c. The light on Cape the sands in a cart in ten minutes; but at high Frehel, 13 miles off, is within view. Near this water 50 feet deep.

light is St. Cast's Château, “ celebrated," say the Hotel Union - Boarding House.

French, "for the victory of that name over the

English, in 1758.” The monument for perpetuating English Church Service on Sunday.

the recollection of this paltry affair in which the A vast stone causeway, 87 feet wide, begun to

assailants, while attempting to land, were perfectly St. Malo, will, in time, make a harbour (326

helpless), was carefully restored in 1858. acres) of this bay, which includes two little

St. Malo replaces the ancient Aletum, the name ports in it, St. Pére and Solidor,--the latter taking name from a fort between them, on a

of which is preserved in Guich Alet Point, near

this. It looks well, and has good hotels and streets rock, built in 1382. It is above 60 feet high, exclusive of the machicolated top, having round

of tall houses, but is rather a dull place. There

are pleasant walks, with prospects of the sea, &c., towers at each of the three corners.

on the large high walls round the edge of the rock, The town is well built, and the neighbourhood a

which are strengthened by old towers and Vaupleasant one; there is good bathing; and ban's bastions. mineral waters may be taken.)

Two of its four portes or gates, St. Vincent and At 5} miles from La Gouesnière, is

St. Thomas, are close to the ancient Château, built ST. MALO.

by the Duchess Anne of Brittany, now making part

of the fortifications. This château is a square pile, 1 kil. from St. Servan.

with corner towers, one whicb is called Qui qu'en HOTELS.-De la Paix; De France; Chene Vert; grogne, from an inscription put upon it by that Commerce; Hotel Franklin.

strong-minded lady-" Qui qu'en grogne, ainsi sera; Coach to Dinan. Rail to Rennes, &c. Steamer c'est mon plaisir, "-Let them grin and bear it. to Jersey, Monday and Thursday, calling at Gran The old cathedral Church, the seat of a bishop ville,

before the Revolution, is in the Gothic style,

There are two other churches, with a bourse or , and eggs; imports, cod and coal. There is a trade, exchange, two hospitals (one for foundlings), a also, in fruit, wine, spirits, salt provisions, toiles high school, school for navigation, a theatre, de Bretagne (linens), cider, honey, butter, wax, government tobacco factory, and an Hotel de Ville, oysters, &c. containing some curious relics of Cartier, the

A steamer ascends the Rance to Dinan, in the navigator. Under Fort de la Cité, is a suspension bridge to St. Servan, built 1847; and leading to

summer months only. Sailing boats, 2 to 3 francs the marée graphe, or tide-mètre. A casino and

the hour. ball rooms are attached to the Baths, which are

From St. Malo, along the Dol road, you come to much frequented in the season.

Paramé, where you leave it for St. Columb and Opposite the cathedral, is the statue of Duguay CANCALE, or CANCALLE (15 kil. to the east), a Trouin, a brave seaman, and a native; Château town on the cliffs, overlooking a sandy bay, which briand was born in Rue des Juifs, and is buried on stretches round (by Mont Dol and Mont St. Michel) an island near Solidor fort. Cartier, who discovered to Granville. With the little port of La Houle, it Canada, 1534; Maupertuis, the astronomer; Labour contains a population of 5, 100, fishermen and oyster donnaye, who took Madras; and Abbé Lamennais, catchers. The cysters are sent to Paris, or to reare also natives.

plenish the beds of natives, in the Thames. A It was a great place for privateers in war time,

church on the height, commands a fine view of the and, as might be expected, was noted for smuggling, bay, of the Herpin rocks at the Grouin de Cancale, but this has fallen off. Some of the best sailors in and other objects. France are found here. Ships are fitted out for the

A pleasant excursion can be made to Mont St. whate and cod fisheries, and the coasting trade

Michel (page 51); first, by taking train to Dol; (petit cabotage).

then by carriage to the Mont, at 15 francs per day. Cordage, lines, fish-hooks, sails, soap, &c., aro Return to Dol if you want a better hotel than the made. Chief exports are grain, potatoes, butter, one at the Mont.

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