Imagens das páginas
PDF
ePub

seigneurs married the sister of Folande, emperor of Constantinople. It was nearly taken by Warwick, 1427, but relieved by Dunois.

St. Madeline's large old Church was begun by Henri II. The great Castle was nearly all pulled down, 1810. One of its frescoes was a painting of the famous Dog of Montargis, which, in the presence of Charles V., fought and vanquished the murderer of his master, Aubrey de Montdidier, who had been killed in the forest of Bondy. P. Manuel, a member of the Convention, Girodet Trioson, the painter, and Madame Guyon, whose religious poems were translated by Cowper, were natives.

Hotels.-De la Poste; De la Ville de Lyon; De l'Ange.

Mars, St. Pierre, Villeneuve-sur-Allier (see Route 45). Then comes

Moulins (37 miles from Nevers), capital of Allier (see Route 45).

Bessay, Hauterive, and Varennes-surAllier (18 miles from Moulins). (See Route 45).

St. Gérmain-des-Fossés (8 miles), near Vichy; (see Route 45). For the next stations St. Gérand-le-Puy, La Palisse, &c., to

Roanne (41 miles from St. Germain-des-Fossés) on the Loire (see Route 46). Roanne is described Route 24. Thence to

Regny (10 miles), near St. Symphorien-en-Lay. Tarare (16 miles), under Mont Tarare, a ridge

At 25 kil. to the east, is the old family seat of 4,500 feet high, pierced by a long tunnel, with a the Courtenays, on the Clare.

Nogent-sur-Vernisson (11 miles), on a small branch of the Loing. About 4 kil. from it, is the Château of Chenevière, including remains of a Roman amphitheatre, made of great blocks of stone. At 7 kil. east-south-east of it is

Châtillon-sur-Loing, which has the ancient Castle where the great Huguenot leader, Admiral Coligny, was born, his mother being sister to the Constable Montmorency. After St. Bartholomew day his body was taken to Chantilly and then to Paris.

Gien (11 miles), a station on the Bourbonnais line, on the Loire, at the old twelve-arched stone bridge, in a pleasant spot, is on a gentle slant, at the top of which are the old spire church of St. Louis (where King Jean-sans-Peur was married, 1410), and the château (now Hôtel de Ville), built or begun in Charlemagne's time.

At 1 kil. north-east is VIEUX (or Old) GIEN, where Roman stones, medals, &c.,have been found. Briare (6 miles), where the canal from Montargis falls into the Loire, is on the north bank of this river, on the road from Orléans to Nevers (see Route 47). Population, 3,500.

Cosne (19 miles), a sous-préfecture, up the Loire, of which it has a beautiful prospect, and of several iron forges round. Population, 6,400.

La Charité (19 miles), a pretty place of 5,000 souls, on the Loire, here crossed by a fine bridge. Further up the river (17 miles) is

Nevers (see Route 45). This is followed by

zigzag road over the pass. It is a sous-préfecture, (population 15,000), of department Rhone, on the river Tardine, noted for its fine muslin weaving, plain and figured.

L'Arbresle (10 miles), the ancient Abravilla, with a fine Gothic castle, at the junction of the Brevanne and another river, among collieries and manufactories of silk and pottery. Population, 2,000.

St. Germain-au-Mont d'Or (8 miles). About 9 miles further is

Lyons, described at page 94.]

From Fontainebleau, a long curved viaduct leads into

Thomery (33 miles), near the Seine, but still in the forest. It is noted for its choice Fontaine

bleau, or chasselas, grapes, which grow in a pretty manner about the houses. Population, 800. Another viaduct, on 30 arches, 66 feet high, leads to

Moret-St.-Mammès (8 miles), on the Seine, where the Loing falls in; having parts of its ancient walls and castle, built by Charles VII., and an old picturesque church, built 1166, by Louis VII., and dedicated by Becket, when a refugee at Sens. The Allies took it, 1814. Here the line turns off to Nemours, &c. (as above). At ST. MAMMÉS (population, 960) is a small port where the Loing Canal falls into the Seine.

Montereau-sault-Yonne (6 miles), a buffet, 494 miles from Paris, where the branch rail to Troyes turns up the Aube (see Route 62).

Hotel.-Du Grand Monarque.

St. Bernard met here, 1140, and condemned the works of Abelard, and here Pope Alexander sought refuge, 1163, as did Becket the year after. It was besieged by Henry IV., in 1590, and taken by the Allies, 1814.

Montereau, on the river Seine, where the Yonne | hood, besides an amphitheatre. A council under joins it, is the site of the Roman Condate, under a hill, which has the château of Surville (i. e., Above town) on top, commanding a fine view of both rivers, their bridges, &c. Napoléon beat the allies here, 1814; and in the church, a tall conspicuous building, with a spire, is the sword (or a steel copy) of Jean-sans-Peur, of Burgundy, who was murdered, 1419, on the old bridge over the Seine, by Charles the Dauphin, for having killed his father. Till the Revolution, they used to show his skull with a gash in it. When Francis I. saw it, he observed that it seemed to be a very large hole. "Yes," said a canon, "it ought to be, for the English entered France through it," the murder

St. Étienne's Cathedral is a fine structure in the early Gothic style, of the 12th century, replacing one burnt 970, which was built by St. Savinien on the site of a Pagan temple. The façade, 154 feet wide, contains about 90 figures in stone, a triple portal, the centre one deeply recessed, with a fine window over it, and a rose and figure of Christ, over that.

The south tower, or Tour de Pierre, finished

being followed by a civil war, which encouraged 1535, is composed of five stages, with a turret at

them to invade the country. hospital is named Asile Napoléon.

A large modern

Population, 6,220, who make good tiles, pottery, and porcelain, the latter work being carried on in the Recollets' convent.

Villeneuve-la-Guyard (6 miles).

Popula

tion, 1,790. Chaumont château, and the tall spire church of Chapigny, will be noticed in passing.

Pont-sur-Yonne (6 miles), at the narrow, winding bridge on the Yonne, at the foot of a hill, in a pretty wine country, was a fortified town, till Its old church is now a the English ruined it. forage store. Near Sens, you see St. Martin du Tertre, on a mound, or chalk hill.

SENS (7 miles).

HOTELS.-Cathedrale; De l'Ecu; De Paris.
Population, 11,100.

A sous-préfecture, in department Yonne, seat of an archdiocese, and the old capital of the Senones in Cæsar's time, to whom they made a bold resistance. It stands in a pleasant spot on the Yonne, near where the Vanne joins; is well built, and watered by little brooks running through the streets, and is enclosed by promenades on the site of the ditches, made by Charles V., outside the old walls, which were added on top of those built by the Romans, on courses of large rough stones. Some remains of them are yet visible near the Porte Dauphine, the only one left of its ancient gates, which with the walls have been removed since 1814. Roman ways are traced in the neighbour

top, and is 240 feet high; its bells are celebrated. The north tower, or Tour de Plomb, is only four stages high, and covered with lead at top. The transept, doors, and stained windows are of the 15th and 16th centuries, by Chambiges. Within, you see a large and richly decorated choir; a marble mausoleum of Louis XVI.'s father, by Coustou, with figures of Time, Conjugal Love, Religion, &c.; the chapel of the Virgin; that of St. Savinien, with a bas-relief of his martyrdom; the beautiful basrelief, nearly fifty feet long, round Cardinal Duprat's tomb, containing altogether about 150 figures; and the primate's throne. There are altogether 18 chapels round the building. In the treasury they show Becket's mitre and other parts of his dress, besides various relics, and portraits of all the prelates. The chapel of the Hôtel Dieu deserves notice for its vaults, &c., now used as a corn hall. That of St. Savinien, the oldest here, has been badly restored. The Officialité, or bishop's court, of the 15th century, is worth notice, for its dungeons, salle du tribunal, Renaissance door (1567), &c.

At the Hôtel de Ville, which is in the Renaissance style, is the museum, containing the original MS. of the Office des Fous, a festival like that of the boybishop, held here till the 16th century. Here are also some inscriptions and bas-reliefs from the old Roman walls. The public library of 12,000 volumes is placed in the College, or Lycée Impériale. There are a priests' seminary, a nunnery in St. the Columbe's abbey, a salle de spectacle on esplanade, baths, an orphan house, &c. No. 102,

in Rue Dauphiné, is an ancient timbered house, with a carved genealogy of Jesus Christ on the face of it. M. Chaulay, a notary here, is in possession of å painting on wood, of Jean Cousin, an artist born about 1500, at Concy (close by), to whom a broken stained window in the cathedral is attributed.

Outside the town is Motte du Ciar (a Gallic mound); the old château de Fleurigny. The hermitage of St. Bond stands on a hill, 328 feet above the river, near the station.

Razors and other steel goods are made, besides leather, &c.; it has a good trade.

Coaches to Courtenay (22 kil., south-west), Château-Renard, Chéroy, Douchy, Montcorbon, Villeneuve, l'Archevêque, &c. Troyes (see Route 62), is 43 kil. further.

[RIGNY DE FERON, 25 kil. east-north-east, up the Vannes, is remarkable for a church with a fine window, stained by Cousin, with the genealogy of Christ, and the life of St. Martin. Cardinal de Berulles was a native; he takes his name from a village to the south-east, which has one of the best churches in the department.] Pass Étigny Church, and its old château, in which Catherine de Medicis met the Duc d'Alençon to take measures against the Huguenots, 1576. Then

Villeneuve-sur-Yonne (8 miles), or Villeneuve-le-Roi, a pretty place on the Yonne, built by Louis VII. in 1170, along with the old bridge, 700 feet long, replaced by one of stone, in 1851. Its royal château was destroyed 1811, but Louis the Fat's tower, 87 feet high, still remains. There are also two Gothic gates of the 13th century, and a church partly as old, and 233 feet long, with a Renaissance front, and a tall square tower. Population, 5,200.

St. Julien-de-Sault (5 miles), on the river, opposite Villevallier, which is joined to it by a suspension bridge. Population, 2,460. It contains an old church and ancient houses. At Cézy, which we pass, is a suspension bridge, with remains of old fortifications.

Joigny (7 miles), a sous-préfecture, on the side of a chalk hill, at the bridge on the Yonne, takes name from Flavius Jovinus, its Roman founder. It is steep in some parts, but has good points of view, and a long quay on the river. The Hôtel Dieu was

F

built by Jeanne de Valois, and the half-ruined château by Cardinal Gondi, of the 15th century, includes St. Jean's Church, on the hill. The law court (tribunal) is placed in St. Andre's old priory chapel. St. Thibault's stands among vineyards. Population, 6,800.

Good vin ordinaire, wine casks, &c., are produced here. Coaches to Aillant, St. Aubin, Toucy, VilliersSt. Benoit, &c.

From Joigny along the Yonne, we pass by a bridge on five arches, to

La Roche (5 miles), where the Burgundy canal and the river Armagnac join, and the branch line to Auxerre turns off.

[To AUXERRE, trains run five times a day, in halfan-hour; distance 12 miles. Cross the Armançon and Serein, by six-arch bridges, to

Chemilly (4 miles). Coaches to Seignelay and Héry. Appoigny church tower is seen. Monéteau (3 miles), close to a suspension bridge, on the Yonne. At 3 miles beyond, is

AUXERRE, 109 miles from Paris. HOTELS.-Du Leopard, on the Quay; La Fontaine. Population, 15,100.

Capital of department Yonne, seat of a diocese, and an ancient town, on a healthy slope, in the Burgundy wine country, above the River Yonne. It was called Autissiodurum when Cæsar took it, A.D. 521, and had a bishop as early as 278. It was pillaged by the English, during the captivity of one of its counts, who had accompanied John of France to England, after the battle of Poictiers. The river itself makes a port for the conveyance of produce, opposite an island covered with trees and mills. The streets are in general narrow. There are good prospects from the boulevards; on the promenade de l'Arquebuse, a cattle fair is held monthly.

The fine Cathedral dedicated to St. Étienne (Stephen), on the hill, built between 1035 and 1543, is 328 feet long, 111 feet high to the vault, with a spire tower (the last built) 195 feet high. It is chiefly in the flamboyant (Tudor) style, and much admired for its regularity, its fine portal of the 16th century, columns, figures, &c., and especially the large number of richly stained windows. The oldest part is the Romanesque crypt, of the 11

century, which deserves notice. The altar is simple
but grand, and has near it figures of the patron
Saint, of Bishop Amyot, the translator of Plutarch,
and Bishop Colbert, brother of the minister. St.
Eusebius' and St. Peter's churches bear marks of
the Romanesque style, the former having a spire
1ower of the 12th century. St. Germain's Abbey
(now part of the Hôtel de Ville) covered the relics of
above sixty saints, including the one commemorated
by the Parisian church of St. Germain l'Auxerrois,
and it holds the tombs of the old counts. The
crypts of the 9th century, and the Romanesque
tower of the 11th century, with a choir, &c., are
all that remain of its church. Another church, St.
Pierre, or St. Père, originally founded in the 8th
century, was rebuilt in the Renaissance style, and
has a finely carved portal.

The Prefect's Hôtel was the bishop's palace. Its Romanesque gallery, or arcade, of the 12th century, is 72 feet long. Here Napoléon received Ney in 1815, styling him the "bravest of the brave." At the bibliothèque, or public library, are 30,000 volumes, 200 MSS., and Baron Denon's collection of medals, &c. The clock tower, or Tour Gaillarde, on a gate near the old house of the dukes of Burgundy, was erected 1670, and marks solar and mean time, with the changes of the moon. The spire of open ironwork, is a modern addition, since the fire of 1825. There are also a large foundry, hospital, college, theatre, baths, barracks, a departmental lunatic asylum, and a botanic garden, in which stands the statue of J. J. Fourier, once Secretary of the Academy, and a native.

Trade in wine, as petit vin d'Auxerre (used to Hlavour Burgundy), Chablis (white), Côte de la Chênette, and Côte de la Mégrène (both red); timber for casks; and a few woollens, &c. says of this place, and its wines--

An old song

"Auxerre est la boisson des rois, Heureux qui les boit tout trois !" Conveyances: Daily by coach, to Poinchy, Chablis, Courson, Vermanton, St. Sauveur, St. Amand, Avallon, Entrains, Cussy-Tannay, Donzy, Corbigny, Cosne, Chassy, Châtillon-en-Bazois, Château-Chinon, &c. By rail to Cravant, Clamecy, towards Nevers, &c.

TOUCY (18 kil. south-west), on the Onane, was the place were Hugh Capet's brother, St. Heribert,

built a château, and died 995. At Mainfron is a mineral water.-At 13 kil. south-west of this is

ST. SAUVEUR, in the beautiful country of Puisaye, having a château, an ancient tower, and the ruins of Moutier Abbey.-At 10 kil. further to the west, towards the Loire, stands the fine château of St. It was Fargeau, in the midst of a great park. founded as far back as 980, and now belongs to the Marquis de Boisgelin.

VERMANTON (18 kil. south-south-east of Auxerre), in a pretty part of the Cure, under a hill, has an old Church, with a remarkable recessed porch, full of carvings.

Cravant, the fourth station from Auxerre (11 miles). Here a branch is in progress to Avallon, &c. (see below).

Coulanges-sur-Yonne (17 miles), followed by Clamecy (5 miles), a sous-préfecture in department Nièvre, of 5,600 inhabitants, on the Yonne and Beuvron, with a good trade in wood, charcoal, &c., and some good churches. Near it are the Villette paper factories. Coaches to Varzy, La Charité, Premery, and Nevers. Rails are in progress to Nevers, and towards Mâcon.

VARZY (15 kil. south-east), under a vine-covered hill.

LA CHARITÉ, 36 kil. beyond. Hence it is 23 kil. up the Loire to Nevers; and 45 kil. to Bourges (see Route 45).

From Clamecy, on the road to Chalons, you pass

VEZELEY (18 kil.), having the very ancient Madeleine Church, which belonged to the abbey founded in the 9th century, by Gherard de Roussillon, where St. Bernard preached a crusade before Louis VII., in 1145. T. Beza, the reformer, was a native.

AVALLON (16 kil.), a sous-préfecture of department Yonne, in a charming valley on the Cousin, was the Roman Aballo, and had a castle of the dukes of Burgundy. Petit Cours, the site of a Roman camp, offers a fine prospect. Population 5,630. The church has a curious porch. Coaches to Aisy and Tonnerre station on the main Lyons line. At 20 kil. to the east are the famous caves of Arcysur-Cure, which includes several chambers, the largest being above 1,200 feet. They are visited in dry weather, about August or September.]

Returning to La Roche, our main line follows the Armançon to

Brienon (5 miles), a port, with a carrying trade in wood. Population, 2,690. Cross the Armançon, by a viaduct on 9 arches, to

St Florentin (5) miles), on the Armançon, where the Armance joins it, and where the Canal de Bourgogne turns off by an aqueduct over the latter. It is an old town, in a pleasant spot, with good prospects, especially from the hill near the priory ruins, after which it was christened "Mont Armance," during the Revolution. One of its Counts (created Duc de la Vrillière), was a favourite of Louis XV. The old church of St. Sepulchre was begun 1376, on the site of a rural château, and has some stained glass, with a good choir, &c. It is a conspicuous object, to which 35 steps lead from the street below.

Margaret, with those (by Girardon) of Louvois, Louis XVI.'s war minister, and eight stone figures in the calvary.

Parts of the town walls remain. The best promenade is the Pâtis. In Faubourg Bourbereau, a spring called Fosse Dionne, falls into a basin, 42 feet diameter, used by the washerwomen. St. Pierre's Church, near the hospital, on a steep rock, which overlooks the town, has a Romanesque front and Gothic clock tower. In Rue de l'Hôpital is the curious old Hôtel d'Uzès. At the Hôtel de Ville is

a portrait of Davoust. The theatre was an Ursuline convent. There is a large horse market (marchéaux-chevaux) held here.

It was sacked by the English, 1359, and ravaged by the plague, 1569 and 1632. The chevalier d'Eon was a native; his house is near the station. Trade in white and red wine, force-meats (andouil

Coaches to Chailly, Ervy, Chablis, Troyes, lettes), snails, stone for sculpture, &c. Sormery Auxon, &c. (see Route 62).

[ERVY (21 kil. east-north-east), on a rocky height above the Armance, in department Aube, commanding a fine view around, has some old houses and a porte, or gate, of its ancient walls.] Flogny (7 miles), near the Armançon, which has a Roman camp on its banks, and is crossed by a suspension bridge. The church is ancient; there is a modern château.

[At PONTIGNY, 10 kil. to the south-west, on the Serain, which a bridge (pont) crosses, is the fine Gothic Church of a Cistercian abbey (founded 1114), 310 feet long, 71 wide, and 67 high.] The line passes the old church of Daunemoine, an 1 that of Épineuil in the midst of vineyards. Tonnerre (8 miles), a buffet, 123 miles from

Paris.

Hotel.-Poste.

Population, 4,800. A sous-préfecture, in a fertile wine country, on a rocky hill over the Armançon, belonging to the Marquis de Louvois, whose old château was the seat of Margaret of Sicily, St. Louis' sister-in-law, and founder of the rich hospital here, for the sick, now forming the chapel to the new building, raised in 1848. It has on its face a large gnomon or dial, placed there, 1786, by Ferouillaet, a monk of St. Nicholas' old abbey, which was founded 980. Notice the effigies of

Coaches to Châblis, Lormes, Nitry, Avallon, and Troyes.

[CHABLIS (12 kil. west-south-west), on the Serain, is noted for its white wines, and stands near traces of a Roman way to Auxerre. Population, 2,000.]

Tanlay (5 miles), has, in its church, an altar brought from St. Martin's old abbey; but is most remarkable for the fine Château of the Marquis de Tanlay, one of the best preserved in this part of France, and a good specimen of the Renaissance style, which succeeded the Gothic. It was begun (on the site of an earlier) 1559, by François de Coligny, brother of the admiral who was killed on St. Bartholomew's day, and finished 1642, from designs by Le Muet, having cost about four million francs. It forms a high-roofed quadrangle, with low, round, domed towers at each end of the open side, and a gateway in the middle. In the interior is a large picture gallery, with frescoes of the leaders of Coligny's day; also a highly decorated chapel; while the grounds comprise gardens, avenues, a canal, château d'eau (water works), an ancient limetree in the park, the ruins of Quincy abbey, &c. The line passes a tunnel of 582 yards, to

[blocks in formation]
« AnteriorContinuar »