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becoming. The other head-dress, which was probably the often-talked-of French hood,' is better known, nearly all Henry's wives being represented in it. The gown was cut square at the bosom, as in the preceding reign; but instead of the neck being bare, it was covered almost to the throat by the partlet, a sort of habit-shirt, much like the modern one, embroidered with gold and silk. The sleeves of the gowns were frequently of a different material from that which composed the rest of the dress, and generally of a richer stuff. The gown was open in front to the waist, showing the kirtle or petticoat, and with or without a train, according to the prevailing fashion of France or Holland. Anne of Cleves is described as wearing a gown made round without any train, after the Dutch fashion; while the train of Catherine Parr is stated to have been more than two yards long. Anne Bullen, while Countess of Pembroke, danced at Calais with Francis I. in a masque consisting of seven ladies besides herself, who were attired in masking apparel of strange fashion, made of cloth of gold compassed with crimson tinsel satin, formed with cloth of silver, lying loose and knit with laces of gold. They were brought into the chamber with four damsels in crimson satin, with tabards of fine cypress. Cavendish, in his • Life of Wolsey,' says— I have seen the king suddenly come thither (i. e. to the cardinal's) in a mask, with a dozen other maskers in garments like shepherds, made of fine cloth of gold and crimson satin; their hairs and beards, of fine gold wire, or silver, or some of black silk, with sixteen torchbearers and drums all in satin.' A minute account is given by Hall of the coronation of Anne Bullen ; and also by Cavendish. We must not confound the procession from the Tower to Westminster, on the day previous to the coronation, with that introduced in the play, which is the procession from the palace to the Abbey. On the first occasion she wore a surcoat of white cloth of tissue, and a mantle of the same, furred with ermine, her hair hanging down from under a coif, with a circlet about it full of rich stones. On the second (that in the play) she wore a surcoat and robe of purple velvet, furred with ermine, the coif and circlet as before. The barons of the Cinque Ports, who carried the canopy over her, were all in crimson, with points of blue and red hanging on their sleeves.' The ladies, being lords' wives,' that followed her, had surcoats of scarlet with narrow sleeves, the breast all lettice (fur) with bars of borders (i. e. rows of ermine) according to their degrees, and over that they had mantles of scarlet furred, and every mantle had lettice about the neck, like a neckercher, likewise powdered, (with ermine,) so that by the powderings their degree was known. Then followed ladies, being knights' wives, in gowns of scarlet with narrow sleeves, without trains, only edged with lettice. The queen’s gentlewomen were similarly attired with the last. The lord chancellor wore a robe of scarlet, open before, and bordered with lettice. The dukes were in crimson velvet, furred with ermine, and powdered according to their degrees. The Duke of Suffolk's doublet and jacket were set with orient pearl his gown of crimson velvet, richly embroidered ; and he carried a white rod" in his hand, being that day high steward of England. The knights of the Bath wore violet gowns, with hoods purfled with miniver, like doctors.'" 169*
KING HENRY TEE EIGETH.
SCENE 1.- London. An Ante-Chamber in the Beheld them, when they lighted, how they clung Palace.
In their embracement, as they grew together;
Which had they, what four thron'd ones could Enter the Duke of Norfolk, at one door ; at the
have weigh'd other, the Duke of BuckINGHAM, and the Lord
Such a compounded one ? ABERGAVENNY.
All the whole time Buck. Good morrow, and well met. How have I was my chamber's prisoner.
Then you lost Since last we saw in France ?
The view of earthly glory : men might say, Nor.
I thank your grace,
Till this time, pomp was single; but now married Healthful; and ever since a fresh admirer
To one above itself. Each following day
Became the next day's master, till the last
Made former wonders it's: to-day the French Stay'd me a prisoner in my chamber, when All clinquant, all in gold, like heathen gods, Those sons of glory, those two lights of men, Shone down the English; and to-morrow they Met in the vale of Andren.
Made Britain, India : every man that stood Nor.
'Twixt Guynes and Arde: Show'd like a mine. Their dwarfish pages were I was then present, saw them salute on horseback; As cherubins, all gilt: the madams, too,
Not us'd to toil, did almost sweat to bear
leng'd The noble spirits to arms, they did perform Beyond thought's compass; that former fabulous
O! you go far.
All was royal :
As you guess.
I pray you, who, my lord ?
I cannot tell
Why the devil,
I do know Kinsmen of mine, three at the least, that have
By this so sicken'd their estates, that never
Grievingly I think,
Which is budded out ; For France hath flaw'd the league, and hath at
tach'd Our merchants' goods at Bourdeaux. Aber.
Is it therefore Th’ ambassador is silenc'd ? Nor.
Why, all this business
Like it your grace,
rock, That I advise your shunning. Enter Cardinal Wolsey, (the purse borne before him,) certain of the Guard, and two Secretaries
The Cardinal in his passage fixeth his eye on BUCKINGHAM, and BUCKINGHam on him, both full of disdain.
Wol. The duke of Buckingham's surveyor ? ha! Where's his examination ? 1 Secr.
Here, so please you. Wol. Is he in person ready ? 1 Secr.
Ay, please your grace. Wol. Well, we shall then know more; and
[Exeunt WOLSEY, and Train. Buck. This butcher's cur is venom-mouth'd,
and I Have not the power to muzzle him; therefore, best Not wake him in his slumber. A beggar's book. Out-worth's a poble's blood. Nor.
What! are you
chaf'd ? Ask God for temperance; that's th' appliance only, Which your disease requires. Buck.
I read in's looks Matter against me; and his eye revil'd Me, as his abject object : at this instant He bores me with some trick. He's gone t' the king: I'll follow, and out-stare him.