.

accompanied us on this voyage in the capacity of an astronomer, set up his quadrant.

Soon after four o'clock, we observed that the earth began to tremble in three different places, as well as the top of a mountain, which was about three hundred fathoms distant from the mouth of the spring. We also frequently heard a subterraneous noise, like the discharge of a cannon; and immediately after a column of water spouted from the opening, which, at a great height, divided itself into several rays, and according to the obsesvations made with the quadrant, was ninety-two feet high. Our great surprise at this uncommon force of the air and fire was increased, when many stones, which we had flung into the aperture, were thrown up again with the spouting water. It is easy to conceive with how much pleasure we spent the day here; and indeed I am not surprised, that a people so much inclined to superstition as the Leelanders are, imagine this to be the entrance of hell. The idea is very natural to uninformed minds: DR. TROIL.

SECT. III.

OF THE MANNERS OF THE ICELANDERS.

THE Icelanders are of a good honest disposition; but they are, at the same time so serious and sullen, that I hardly remember to have 'seen any of them laugh. They are by no means so strong as might be supposed, and much less handsome. Their chief amusement in their leisure hours, is to recount to one another the history of former times; so that to this day you do not meet with an Icelander, who is not well acquainted with the history of his own country. They also play at cards.

Their houses are built of lava, thatched with turf, and so small that one can hardly find room to turn in. They have no floors; and their windows, instead of glass, are composed of thin membranes of certain animals. They make no use of chimneys, as they

never light a fire except to dress their victuals, when they only lay the turf on the ground. It may therefore be said, that we saw no houses except shops and warehouses; and on our journey to Hecla, we were obliged to take up our lodgings in the churches:

Their food principally consists of dried fish, sour butter, which they consider as a great dainty, milk mixed with water and whey, and a little meat. They receive 'so little bread from the Danish Company, that there is scarcely any peasant who eats it above three or four months in the year. They likewise boil groats of a kind of moss, which has an agreea ble taste. The principal occupation of the men is fishing, which they follow both winter and summer. The women take care of the cattle, and knit stockings. They likewise dress and dry the fishes, brought home by the men, and otherwise assist in preparing this staple commodity of the country.

Money is very rare, which is the reason that all trade is carried on by fish and ells of coarse unshorn cloth. One ell is worth two fishes, and forty-eighty fishes are worth a rix dollar in specie. They were better acquainted with gold at our departure than at our arrival.

They are well provided with cattle, which are generally without horns. They have likewise sheep and very good horses. Both the last are the whole winter in the fields. Of wild animals they have only foxes and bears, which come every year from Greenland with the floating ice; these, however, are killed as soon as they appear, partly on account of the reward of ten dollars, which the king pays for every bear, and partly to prevent them from destroying their cattle. The present governor has introduced rein-deer into the island; but out of thirteen, ten died on their passage, and the other three are alive with their young.

It is extraordinary that no wood grows successfully in Iceland; nay there is scarcely a single tree to be found on the whole island, though there are cer

tain proofs of wood having formerly grown there in great abundance. Corn cannot be cultivated here to any advantage, though I have met with cabbages, parsley, turnips, and pease, in five or six gardens, which are the only ones in the island.. DR. TROIL.

SECT. IV.

OF THE FOOD OF THE ICELANDERS.

THE Icelanders in general, eat three meals a day; at seven in the morning, at two in the afternoon, and at nine in the evening.

In the morning and evening they commonly eat curds mixed with new milk, and sometimes with juniper-berries; in some parts they also have pottage of rock-grass, dried and made into flour, which is very palatable; or curdled milk boiled till it becomes a red colour; or new milk, boiled a long while.

At dinner their food consists of dried fish, with plenty of sour butter. They also sometimes eat fresh fish, and, when possible, a little bread and cheese with them. It is reported by some, that they do not eat any fish till it is quite rotten. This report perhaps proceeds from their being fond of it when a little tainted. However, they frequently eat fish that is quite fresh.

On Sunday, and in harvest-time, they have broth made of meat, which is often boiled in syra, or fermented whey, instead of water; and in winter they eat hung or dried meat.

Their common beverage is milk, either warm from the coy, or cold, and sometimes boiled. They likewise drink butter-milk, with or without water.

They seldom make use of fresh or salt butter, but let it grow sour before they eat it. In this manner

it may be kept twenty years, and even longer; and the Icelanders look upon it as more wholesome and palatable than the butter used amongst us. It is reekoned better the older it is; and one pound of it then is as much valued as two pounds of fresh butter.

:

This is the usual manner of life in Iceland. In all countries the living of the poor differs essentially from that of the rich and if an Iceland gentleman can afford to eat meat, butter, shark, and whale, the peasants are obliged to content themselves with fish, blanda, or milk mixed with water, and milk pottage or rock-grass. Though the Icelanders cannot be said to be in want of necessary aliment, yet the country has several times been visited by great famines. These, however, have been chiefly owing to the Greenland floating ice, which, when it comes in great quantities, prevents the grass from growing, and puts an entire stop to their fishing. DR. TROIL.

SECT. V.

OF THE MANNERS OF THE MODERN EGYPTIANS.

LIFE, at Grand Cairo, is rather passive than active. Nine months of the year the body is oppressed with heat; the soul in a state of apathy, far from being continually tormented by a wish to know and act, sighs after calm tranquillity. Inaction, under a temperate climate, is painful; here repose is enjoyment. The most frequent salutation at meeting or parting is, "Peace be with you." Effeminate indolence is born with the Egyptian, glows as he grows, and descends with him to the grave. It is the vice of the climate; it influences his inclinations, and governs his actions. The sofa, therefore, is the most luxurious piece of furniture of an apartment. Their gardens have charming arbours, and convenient seats, but not a single walk. Frenchman, born under an ever-varying sky, is continually receiving new impressions, which keep his mind as continually awake. He is active, impatient, and agitated like the atmosphere in which he exists; while the Egyptian, feeling the same heat, the same sensation, two-thirds of the year, is idle, solemn and patient.

The

He rises with the sun, to enjoy the morning air,

purifies himself, and repeats the appointed prayer. His pipe and coffee are brought him, and he reclines at ease on his sofa. Slaves with their arms crossed, remain silent at the far end of the chamber, with their eyes fixed on him, seeking to anticipate his smallest want. His children standing in his presence, unless he permits them, to be seated, preserve every appearance of tenderness and respect. He gravely caresses them, gives them his blessing, and sends them back to the harem. He only questions, and they reply with modesty. He is the chief, the judge, the pontiff of the family, before whom these sacred rights are all respected.

Breakfast ended, he transacts the business of his office; and as to disputes they are few, among a people where the voice of the hydra, chicanery, is never heard; where the name of attorney is unknown; where the whole code of laws consists in a few clear and precise commands in the Koran, and where each man is his own pleader.

When visitors come, the master receives them without many compliments, but with an endearing manner. His equals are seated beside him, with their legs crossed, which posture is not fatiguing to the body, unembarrassed by dress. His inferiors kneel, and sit upon their heels. People of distinction are placed on a raised sofa, whence they overlook the company. Thus Æneas, in the palace of Dido, had the place of honour, while, seated on a raised bed,* he related the burning of Troy to the queen. When every person is placed, the slaves bring pipes and coffee, and set the perfume brasier in the middle of the chamber, the air of which is impregnated with its odours, and afterwards present sweetmeats and sherbet,

When the visit is almost ended, a slave, bearing a silver plate on which precious essences are burning, goes round to the company; each in turn perfumes the beard, and afterward sprinkles rose-water on the * Inde toro pater Æneas sic orsus ab alto. NEID, lib. ii. 2.