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boned, fried, and then simmered in espagnole or some similar sauce- are well enough, and can be sophisticated before being served up by having truffles and other associations stuck on them. It is also sometimes recommended that they should be prepared in this way before being made into a pie.

Most of the books contain a receipt usually stated (conscientiously) to be German, for marinading grouse, which might be useful either in the case of birds accidentally kept too long or in that of very aged ones, or, as observed above, to tame the wildness of the rougher members of the tribe. Otherwise I cannot conceive it to be necessary to treat good red grouse in this way, however useful something of the same kind may be to make pork taste like wild boar, rabbit like hare, and very dry roe-venison like the flesh of a hart of grease. You take (the particulars never vary) a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a score of juniper berries, some peppercorns, and two or three bay leaves. You steep the birds in this for three days, frequently turning them and spooning the marinade over them. You then stuff them with turkey stuffing, lard the breasts, roast and serve.

But after this and the other things the mind returns from these excesses to the elegance of a good roast grouse simple of himself, with some such a feeling as

that which 'Neville Temple and Edward Trevor' attributed long ago to Tannhäuser when

a dewy sense

Of innocent worship stole

over his heated brain and sense as he contemplated the Princess after his return from the Venusberg. It is true that the ingenious wickedness of some may draw a bad moral in favour of variety even from this comparison; but on their heads be it.

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