twisted to and fro, and finally to be thrown into the air, twenty feet above his head, as if he were nothing more than a stuffed man of sailcloth and straw. In the midst of shouts and plaudits, he repeated his feat three several times, and at length held on so firmly that others were encouraged to join him; the crowd rushed in, lugged the animal from side to side, cruelly twisting his tail, and pricking him with the darts; and concluded by leading him off to his stall, amidst a herd of cows that had been driven into the ring to pacify his rage.

Thus ended the Lisbon bull-fight. The ring was erected by Don Miguel, for his own and his people's amusement, at the beginning of his reign; and I was informed, that of the many low tastes, for which he is notorious at Lisbon, a love for fighting the bull with his own hands was, perhaps, the least objectionable. Fatal accidents, I hear, rarely happen; and, as the bulls' horns are cased with leather, and tipped with a padded ball, the horses are not gored and ripped open in the frightful way described in the rings at Grenada and Madrid; in short, there is nearly the same difference between a bull-fight in

Lisbon and a bull-fight at Madrid, as there would be between a regular prize-fight in England and sparring with the gloves; or between an extemporary contest at the barn-door and a battle between clipped and nearly featherless game-cocks, in glittering steel spurs, at the late Lord Asterisk's, or the present Hampshire mains.

CHAPTER XVI.

There is a land of every land the pride,
Beloved by heaven o'er all the world beside;
Where brighter suns dispense serener light,
And milder moons emparadise the night;
A land of beauty, virtue, valour, truth,
Time-tutored age, and love-exalted youth,
There is a spot of earth supremely blest,
A dearer, sweeter spot than all the rest.

Where shall that land, that spot of earth be found?
Art thou a man ?—a patriot ?-look around:
O thou shalt find, howe'er thy footsteps roam,
That land thy country, and that spot thy home.

MONTGOMERY.

Voyage to England.-Portuguese physiognomy.-Vigo.-Spanish market-icomen. - Bay of Biscay. Steam-boats. Frenchmen.-The Thames.-Conclusion.

MONDAY, August 12.-Left Lisbon by a steamboat for England. One of the passengers is a

VOYAGE TO ENGLAND.

PHYSIOGNOMY.

305

Spanish lady who is going as far as Vigo. In features, complexion, and gracefulness of manner she bears a strong resemblance to the peasant wr nen of the Furnas. There is little similarity Letween the peasantry of St. Michael's and the Portuguese of Lisbon and its neighbourhood; these latter are a "dingy" set, (an admirably expressive epithet of Lord Byron's, who, poetlike, conveyed in a word or a line more than others accomplish in pages,) and they are generally taller and more largely framed than the Azoreans; and instead of the full soft eyes of the islanders, they have sparkling black ones of a hard jetty brightness. The same large jawbones and consequent projection of mouth characterise both the Azoreans and the people of Lisbon and its neighbourhood; indeed, this developement of jaw is a striking peculiarity of the Portuguese physiognomy, particularly when it is compared with the smaller mouths of the English; but the complexion of the Portuguese of the Peninsula, which is as it was when Evelyn described that of the ladies who accompanied the Queen of Charles the Second, "olivador and sufficiently unagreeable," is still more olivador and unagreeable than that of the Azoreans.

VOL. II.

X

306

VOYAGE TO ENGLAND.-VIGO.

Wednesday, August 14.-Landed for an hour at Vigo, a small Spanish town on the confines of Portugal, situated on the edge of a noble bay which has two or three barren rocky islands at its outlet, forming a natural breakwater. Though so near Lisbon the natural appearances which indicate climate were very different. The day was perfect, but instead of the constant hot cloudless sky of Lisbon, with its brown and parched-up country, the hills surrounding the bay of Vigo, and the meadows and woods at their base, were as green, and the sky as full of clouds, as in England. It is pleasant to be among clouds again: they are to the sky what trees are to the earth; without them, both earth and sky are bare de

serts.

The town stands on the side of a hill; and after the stiff barrack-like sameness of Portuguese and Azorean towns and villages, where all the houses are built of one pattern, appeared highly picturesque. Here every house and cottage differed from its neighbour. The balconies running the whole length of the house, and covered with deep eaves of guttered tiles, so as to form verandas; a second story frequently projecting over the first, and closing in the street from the sky,