distracted, torn, shall be again united in all its parts, and growing up into Him in all things, shall make its increase to the edifying of itself in love?1 Come, oh come, that glorious day, when animosities shall cease and faith shall revive, when the love of many that has waxed cold shall burn again, and truth, pure as she came from the Apostles' hands, shall unite us once more in the "Apostles' doctrine and fellowship."2 Amen and Amen.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Passage to Trebizond.-Credentials.-Unity of the Church.-Trans-

lations of the Prayer Book.-Their Utility.-Increase of Steam

Navigation. Its Moral Consequences.-The Conservative Influ-

ence of Mohammedanism on Christianity.-Increase of Infidelity.

- Our Duty.- Trebizond.- Bouyouroultous.- Ecclesiastics.—

Turkish Reform.-Mohammedan Bigotry.-The Greeks.-Rela-

tions of the Clergy to Improvement. Their proper Position.-

Greek and Roman Churches Compared.-Means of a peaceful

Reformation,

-

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13

CHAPTER II.

Departure from Trebizond.-Greek Bishop.-Timidity of the Clergy.

-Monastery of St. Mary.-Monasteries in Turkey.—Their State.

-Decline of Monasticism.-Character of the Monks.-Religious

Retreats.-Mountain Scenery.-Parting from the Bishop.-Local

Associations.-The Ancient Population.-Remnants of Christian-

ity.-Mussulman Descendants from Christians.-Languages.—

Natural Bridge.-Mountain Passage.-Company at a Khan.—

Gumush Khaneh.-Its Christians.-Posting.-Routes.-Change

of Route,

:

:

26

CHAPTER III.

The Road. The Osmanlees and the Turks.-Sunset Scene.-The

Ayan's Palace.-Reception.-Lesson on Hospitality.-Repose in

a Village. Kara Hissar.-Its Ancient Citadel.-Preparations for

a Journey.-The Plain of Ashkar.-Ancient Remains.-The

Greek Population of the Interior.-Face of the Country.-The

Day's Stage.-The Armenians.-Their Dispersion.-National

Character. Their Church.-Its Changes.-Its present State.-

Its Necessities,

37

CHAPTER IV.

The Ayan of Edrenes.-The Church of Edrenes.-Churches in Tur-

key. Contrast with Mosqu -Armenian Churches described.-

Altars. The Font.-Women's Place.-Paintings.-The design

of Pictures in Eastern Churches.-The Greek.-The Armenian.

-Origin of Picture Worship in them.-Present State.-Their

Testimony upon the Subject.-The Greek.-The Armenian.-

The Syrian-The Nestorian.-Bearing of the Testimony upon

the subject of Picture Worship.-Importance of studying the East-

ern Churches for the sake of their Testimony.-The Steadfast-

ness of the Eastern Christians in maintaining their Confession of

Christianity. The Cause.-Their low Estimate of it practically.

-Our Duty to them,

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Edrenes.-Armenian Monastery.-The Road.—

Kurdish Tents.-The Occupants.-Kurdish Chief.-His Recep-

tion. His Life.-Presents in the East.-Eastern Character.-

Famine.-Espionage.-Emigrants.-Turkish Policy.-The Road.

-Dangers.-How to be met,

CHAPTER VI.

Conflict with the Post-Master at Sivas.-Departure from Sivas.—

Escape of the Guide.-The Escort.-Day's March over an infest-

ed District.-Hassan Tchelebi.-The Kizzelbashes.-Travelling

by Night.-Reflections.-The Euphrates.-Evils resulting from

Changes of Rulers.-Kharpout.-First Sight of the Syrians.-Ar-

menian Monasteries.-Syrian Bishop.-The Syrian Population of

Kharpout,

CHAPTER VII.

The Village of Merizah.-Population of Syrians -Change of Cli-

mate.-Day of Preparation. -Kharpout.-The Town.-Churches.

-Fortress.-The Syrian Church of Kharpout.-The Court.—

The Interior.-Pictures.-Miracles.- The Altar.- The Bishop's

Chair. The Font.-The Books.-Origin of the Church.-Its

History. The Priest.-Journey resumed.-Place of Pilgrimage.

-Fish-Incident with a Christian.-Argana Maden.- Passage

of the Taurus.-Famine.-Dangers.-Preparations.- New Com-

panion.-The Tatar.-The Monastery.-Report concerning it.

-Death Abroad,

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59

71

82

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Argana.-Our Company.-The Desert by Night.

-Meeting with Kurds.-Hostile Preparations.-The Event.—

Repose on the Grass.-Famine.-First Impressions.-Scenes from

the Famine.-Causes of it.-A Feast.-Hard Drinking.-Hard-

ness of Heart.—Outrage upon the Christians.-Mussulman Big-

otry.-Justice in Turkey,

CHAPTER IX.

Respect for Franks.-Interposition in behalf of Eastern Christians.

-Greek Hospitality.-Visits from Ecclesiastics.-Relations of

the Native Papal Christians with Rome.-Meeting with an old

Friend.-False Reports and true Reports.-Our Company.-Kurd-

ish Village.-Escort.-Kurdish Bey.-Polite Robbery.-A use-

ful Lesson.-Loose Friends.-Delays.-Present State of Mardin.

-Decay.-Reaction of Reform,

CHAPTER X.

Preparation for the Desert.-A sad Tale.—Arab Village.-Scene at

Evening.- Our Company.-The Desert at Night.-Nisibin, site

of ancient Nisibis.-Its present State.-Guard.-Route over the

Desert. The Orphan.-Moral Effects of the Famine.-Indiffer-

ence of the Governors.-Journey by Night.-Depredations on the

Villagers. Search for Water.-Salt Lake.-The Heat,

CHAPTER XI.

Encampment at Night.-Boar Chase.-Repast.-Night March.-

Search for Water.-The Sinjar Mountains.-Conflagration.—

Sudden Departure.-The Gazelle.-Robber's Watch Height -

Camel caught.-Road lost.-Peasants.-Their Timidity.-Its

Cause.-Abou Maria.-Retrospect.-Last Day.-Reception in

a Sheikh's Tent.-Reach the Tigris.-A Nap.-The City,

CHAPTER XII.

The English Church at Mossoul.-State of the Christians.-Divi-

sions.-State of Learning.-The Nestorian and Chaldean

Churches.-History of their Separation.-Subjection of the latter

to the Pope.-The Nature of Romish Innovations,

.

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105

116

125

135

CHAPTER XIII.

The Tomb of Daniel.-The Population of Mossoul.-Syrian Villages

near Mossoul.-Localities of the Syrian Population.-Reflections

on my Work.-Opposition of Papists.-Their Treatment of us.—

Need of a distinctive Presentation of the Church.-Departure from

Mossoul.-Self-Denial in the Missionary Work.-The Pasha of

Mossoul.-His Expedition against the Arabs.-Preparation for

the Journey.-The Plain of Nineveh.-The Tomb of the Prophet.

-The Fast of Nineveh in the Nestorian and Chaldean Churches.

-Telkef.-Monasteries of Raban Hormisd and St. Matthew.-

El Kosh, Birthplace of Nahum, the Prophet.-Comparison of

Christians and Mohammedans.-Yezidees.-Arab Village.-Ar-

rival at Zakho,

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147

CHAPTER XIV.

Zakho.-Its District.-Taxes.-Evils of the Farming System.-Call

from the Agha.-A young Syrian.—Bankers.—Presents.—Guard.

-Provincial Quarrels.-Bridge over the Khabour.-Fording a

River by Night.-Chaldean Village.-Reception at Night.-

Sleeping on Roofs.-Hadid.-Bitouna.-The Province of Jezireh.

-Its Government compared with that of Mossoul.-Harvest.—

Chaldean and Nestorian Villages.-Town of Jezireh.-Reshid Pa-

sha and his Wars.-Attack on Jezireh.-Crossing the Tigris on a

Raft.-A Chaldean Host and Hostess.-Description of Jezireh.—

Chaldean Bishop.-Chaldean and Nestorian Population of the

Province.-Nestorian Bishop.-Syrian Bishop.-Papal Proselyt-

ism,

CHAPTER XV.

Troubles in the Tour Dagh.-Change of Route.-The Churches of

Jezireh.-The Chaldean Church.-Conversation with the Priest.

-His Idea of the English Church.-Romish Falsehoods.-The

Church. Its Interior.-Quarrel in the Church-yard.-The Syri-

an Church.-Its School.-On the Mode of Circulating the Holy

Scriptures.-Evening Prayers.-Talk in the Evening on Oppres-

sion and Proselytism.-Departure from Jezireh.-Death of a Mis-

sionary in the Desert.-Kargo.-Haznaour.-The Syrians of the

Desert. The Bigamist.-His Excommunication.-Tediousness of

Travelling over a Desert.-The Church of St. James at Nisibis.-

Dara. Its Ancient State.-Survey of its Ruins -Its Inhabitants.

162