130 DIRECTIONS AND INFORMATION FOR THE TOURIST. A BRIEF notice shall here be given of particulars in the several Vales of which the Country is composed. We will begin, as before, with WINDERMERE. This Lake is approached, by Travellers from the South, about the middle of its eastern side, at Bowness, or by Orrest-head. The lower part is rarely visited, but has many interesting points of view, especially at Storr's Hall and at Fellfoot, where the Coniston Mountains peer nobly over the western barrier, which elsewhere, along the whole Lake, is comparatively tame. To one also who has ascended the hill from Grathwaite on the western side, the promontory called Rawlinson's Nab, Storr's Hall, and the Troutbeck Mountains, about sunset, make a splendid landscape. The view from the Pleasure-house of the Station near the Ferry has suffered much from Larch plantations, and from other causes. Windermere ought to be seen both from its shores and from its surface. None of the other Lakes unfold so many fresh beauties to him who sails upon them. This is owing to its greater size, to the islands, and to its having two vales at the head, with their accompanying mountains of nearly equal dignity. Nor can the grandeur of these two terminations be seen at once from any point, except from the bosom of the Lake. The Islands may be explored at any time of the day; but one bright unruffled evening, must, if possible, be set apart for the splendour, the stillness, and solemnity of a three hour's voyage upon the higher division of the Lake, not omitting, towards the end of the excursion, to quit the expanse of water, and peep into the close and calm River at the head; which, in its quiet character, at such a time, appears rather like an overflow of the peaceful Lake itself, than to have any more immediate connection with the rough mountains whence it has descended, or the turbulent torrents by which it is supplied. Many persons content themselves with what they see of Windermere during their progress in a boat from Bowness to the head of the Lake, walking thence to Ambleside. But the whole road from Bowness is rich in diversity of pleasing or grand scenery; there is scarcely a field on the road side, which, if entered, would not give to the landscape some additional charm. Low-wood Inn, a mile from the head of Windermere, is a pleasant halting-place; and the fields above it, and the lane that leads to Troutbeck, present beautiful views towards each extremity of the Lake. From this place, and from Ambleside, rides may be taken in numerous directions, and the interesting walks are inexhaustible; a few out of the main road may be particularized;-the lane that leads towards Skelgill; the ride, or walk by Rothay Bridge, and up the stream under Loughrigg Fell, continued on the western side of Rydal Lake, and along the fell to the foot of Grasmere Lake, and thence round by the church of Grasmere; or, turning round Loughrigg Fell by Loughrigg Tarn and the River Brathay, back to Ambleside. From Ambleside is a charming excursion, by Skelwith-fold and Colwith-force up Little Langdale, Blea Tarn, Dungeon-ghyll waterfall (if there be time) and down Great Langdale. Stockghyll-force and Rydal waterfalls, every one hears of. In addition to the two vales at its head, Windermere communicates with two lateral Vallies, that of Troutbeck, distinguished by the mountains at its head, by picturesque remains of cottage architecture, and by fine fore-grounds formed by the steep and winding banks of the * Mr. Green's Guide to the Lakes, in two vols. contains a complete Magazine of minute and accurate information of this kind, with the names of mountains, streams, &c. river. The other, the vale of Hawkshead, is seen to most advantage by the approach from the ferry over Windermere-the Lake of Esthwaite, Hawkshead Church, and the cone of Langdale Pike in the distance. There are delightful walks in that part of Grasmere, called Easedale; and the Vale is advantageously seen from Butterlip How. As this point is four miles on the way to Keswick, it may here be mentioned, that, from the high road between Keswick and Ambleside, which passes along the eastern side of the several Lakes of Rydal, Grasmere, and part of Wythburn, these lakes are not seen to the best advantage, particularly Rydal, and Wythburn-the lower half of which is entirely lost. If, therefore, the excursion from Ambleside has not been taken, a traveller on foot or on horseback would be well recompensed by quitting the high road at Rydal over Pelter Bridge, -proceeding on the western side of the two Lakes to Grasmere Church; and, thence to Butterlip How. A second deviation may be made when he has advanced a little beyond the milestone, the sixth short of Keswick, whence there is a fine view of Legbertwhaite, with Blencathara (commonly called Saddleback) in front. Having previously enquired, at the inn near Wythburn Chapel, the best way from this mile-stone to the bridge that divides the Lake, he must cross it, and proceed, with the Lake on the right, to the Hamlet near its termination, and rejoin the main road upon Shoulthwaite Moss, about four miles from Keswick. These two deviations lengthen the journey something less than three miles. Helvellyn may be ascended from Dunmailraise by a foot Traveller, or from the Inn at Wythburn. CONISTON. The next principal Vale, that of Coniston, is best seen by entering the country over the Sands of Lancaster. The Stranger, from the moment he sets his foot on those Sands, seems to leave the turmoil and traffic of the world behind him; and, crossing the majestic plain whence the Sea has retired, he beholds, rising apparently from its base, the cluster of mountains among which he is going to wander, and towards whose recesses, by the Vale of Coniston, he is gradually and peacefully led. From the Inn at the head of Coniston Lake, a leisurely Traveller might have much pleasure in looking into Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, returning to his Inn from the head of Yewdale by a mountain track which has the farm of Tarn Hows, a little on the right;-by this road is seen much the best view of Coniston Lake from the south. From Coniston it is best to pass by Hawkshead to the Ferry of Windermere, instead of going direct to Ambleside, which would bring the Traveller upon the head of the Lake, and consequently with much injury to its effect. If the Lake of Coniston be visited from the upper end, it is |