often growing in tufts, or portions of rings. The pileus is fleshy in the centre, and the gills thick and decurrent. In France, Germany, Bohemia, and Denmark, it is included with esculent species. In addition may be mentioned Hygrophorus eburneus, Fr., another white species, as also Hygrophorus niveus, Fr., which grows in mossy pastures. Paxillus involutus, Fr.,* though very common in Europe, is not eaten, yet it is included by Dr. Curtis with the esculent species of the United States.

d

The milky agarics, belonging to the genus Lactarius, are distinguished by the milky juice which is exuded when they are wounded. The spores are more or less globose, and rough or echinulate, at least in many species. The most notable esculent is Lactarius deliciosus, Fr.,† in which the milk is at first saffronred, and afterwards greenish, the plant assuming a lurid greenish hue wherever bruised or broken. Universal commendation seems to fall upon this species, writers vying with each other to say the best in its praise, and mycophagists everywhere endorsing the assumption of its name, declaring it to be delicious. It is found in the markets of Paris, Berlin, Prague, and Vienna, as we are informed, and in Sweden, Denmark, Switzerland, Russia, Belgium; in fact, in nearly all countries in Europe it is esteemed.

Another esculent species, Lactarius volemum, Fr.,‡ has white milk, which is mild to the taste, whilst in deleterious species with white milk it is pungent and acrid. This species has been celebrated from early times, and is said to resemble lamb's kidney.

Lactarius piperatus, Fr., is classed in England with dangerous, sometimes poisonous species, whereas the late Dr. Curtis, of North Carolina, has distinctly informed us that it is cooked and eaten in the United States, and that he has partaken of it. He includes Lactarius insulsus, Fr., and Lactarius subdulcis, Fr.,§ amongst esculent species; both are also found in this country,

*Sowerby, "Fungi," pl. 56; Schaffer, "Icones Bav." t. 72.

† Trattinnick, L., "Die Essbaren Schwämme" (1809), p. 82, pl. M; Barla, J. B., "Champignons de la Nice" (1859), p. 34, pl. 19.

Smith, "Edible Mushrooms," fig. 26.

§ Barla, "Champ. Nice," t. 20, f. 4-10.

but not reputed as edible; and Lactarius angustissimus, Lasch, which is not British. Species of Lactarius seem to be eaten almost indiscriminately in Russia when preserved in vinegar and salt, in which condition they form an important item in the kinds of food allowed in their long fasts, some Boleti in the dried state entering into the same category.

*

The species of Russula in many respects resemble Lactarii without milk. Some of them are dangerous, and others esculent. Amongst the latter may be enumerated Russula heterophylla, Fr., which is very common in woods. Vittadini pronounces it unsurpassed for fineness of flavour by even the notable Amanita cæsarea. Roques gives also an account in its favour as consumed in France. Both these authors give favourable accounts of Russula virescens, P.,† which the peasants about Milan are in the habit of putting over wood embers to toast, and eating afterwards with a little salt. Unfortunately it is by no means common in England. A third species of Russula, with buffyellow gills, is Russula alutacea, Fr., which is by no means to be despised, notwithstanding that Dr. Badham has placed it amongst species to be avoided. Three or four others have also the merit of being harmless, and these recorded as esculent by some one or more mycological authors: Russula lactea, Fr., a white species, found also in the United States; Russula lepida, Fr., a roseate species, found also in lower Carolina, U.S.; and another reddish species, Russula vesca, Fr., as well as Russula decolorans, Fr. Whilst writing of this genus, we may observe, by way of caution, that it includes also one very noxious red species, Russula emetica, Fr., with white gills, with which some of the foregoing might be confounded by inexperienced persons.

The chantarelle Cantharellus cibarius, Fr., has a most charming and enticing appearance and odour. In colour, it is of a bright golden yellow, and its smell has been compared to that of ripe apricots. It is almost universally eaten in all countries

66

* Vittadini, C., "Funghi Mangerecci" (1835), p. 209; Barla, Champ. Nice," pl. i.

+ Vittadini, C., "Funghi Mangerecci," p. 245; Roques, "Champ. Comest." p. 85.

*

where it is found, England excepted, where it is only to be met with at the "Freemason's Tavern " on state occasions, and at the tables of pertinacious mycophagists. Trattinnick says: "Not only this same fungus never did any one harm, but might even restore the dead." +

The fairy-ring champignon Marasmius oreades, Fr., though small, is plentiful, and one of the most delicious of edible fungi. It grows in exposed pastures, forming rings, or parts of rings. This champignon possesses the advantage of drying readily, and preserving its aroma for a long time. We have often regretted that no persistent attempts and experiments have been made with the view of cultivating this excellent and useful· species. Marasmius scorodonius, Fr., a small, strong-scented, and in all respects inferior species, found on heaths and dry pastures, extending even to the United States, is consumed in Germany, Austria, and other continental countries, where, perhaps its garlic odour has been one of its recommendations as an ingredient in sauces. In this enumeration we have not exhausted all the gill-bearing species which might be eaten, having included only those which have some reputation as esculents, and of these more particularly those found in Great Britain and the United States.

Amongst the Polyporei, in which the gill plates are represented by pores or tubes, fewer esculent species are to be met with than in the Agaricini, and the majority of these belong to the genus Boletus. Whilst in Vienna and Hanover, we were rather surprised to find Boletus edulis, Fr., cut into thin slices and dried, exposed for sale in almost every shop where meal, peas, and other farinaceous edibles were sold. This species is common enough in England, but as a rule it does not seem to please the English palate, whereas on the continent no fungus is more commonly eaten. This is believed to be the suillus eaten by the ancient Romans,§ who obtained it from Bithynia. The

* Badham, Dr, "Esculent Funguses of Britain," 2nd ed. p. 110; Hussey, "Illust. Brit. Mycol." 1st ser. pl. 4; Barla, "Champ." pl. 28, f. 7-15. + Trattinnick, L., "Essbaren Schwämme," p. 98.

Lenz, "Die Nützlichen und Schädlichen Schwämme,” p. 49. § Badham, "Esculent Funguses of Great Britain," 2 ed. p. 91.

modern Italians dry them on strings for winter use, and in Hungary a soup is made from them when fresh. A more excellent species, according to our judgment, is Boletus æstivalis, Fr., which appears in early summer, and has a peculiar nutty flavour when raw, reminding one more of a fresh mushroom. Boletus scaber, Fr.,† is also common in Britain, as well as the continent, but does not enjoy so good a reputation as B. edulis. Krombholz says that Boletus bovinus, Fr., a gregarious species, found on heaths and in fir woods, is much sought after abroad as a dish, and is good when dried. Boletus castaneus, Fr.,‡ is a small species with a mild, pleasant taste when raw, and very good when properly cooked. It is not uncommonly eaten on the continent. Boletus chrysenteron, Fr.,§ and Boletus subtomentosus, Fr., are said to be very poor eating, and some authors have considered them injurious; but Mr. W. G. Smith states that he has on more than one occasion eaten the former, and Trattinnick states that the latter is eaten in Germany. The late Mr. Salter informed us that, when employed on the geological staff, he at one time lived almost entirely on different species of Boleti, without using much discrimination. Sir W. C. Trevelyan also informs us that he has eaten Boletus lurdius without any unpleasant consequences, but we confess that we should be sorry to repeat the experiment. Dr. Badham remarks that he has eaten Boletus Grevillei, B., Boletus flavus, With., and Boletus granulatus, L., the latter being recognized also as edible abroad. Dr. Curtis experimented, in the United States, on Boletus collinitus, and although he professes not to be particularly fond of the Boleti, he recognizes it as esculent, and adds that it had been pronounced delicious by some to whom he had sent it. He also enumerates as edible Boletus luteus, Fr., Boletus elegans, Fr., Boletus flavidus, Fr., Boletus versipellis, Fr., Boletus leucomelas, Tr., and Boletus ovinus, Sch. Two Italian species of Polyporus must not be forgotten. These are Polyporus tuberaster, Pers.,

*Hussey, "Myc. Illus." ii. pl. 25; Paulet, "Champ." t. 170.

+ Barla, J. B., "Champ. de la Nice," p. 71, pl. 35, f. 1–5.

Hussey, "Illustr." ii. t. 17; Barla, "Champ. Nice," t. 32, f. 11-15. § Hussey, "Illustr." i. t. 5; Krombholz, "Schwämme,” t. 76.

which is procured by watering the pietra funghaia, or fungus stone, a kind of tufa, in which the mycelium is embedded. It is confined to Naples. The other species is Polyporus corylinus, Mauri., procured artificially in Rome from charred stumps of the cob-nut tree.*

Of true Polyporus, only two or three species have been regarded favourably as esculents. These are-Polyporus intybaceus, Fr., which is of very large size, sometimes attaining as much as forty pounds; Polyporus giganteus, Fr., also very large, and leathery when old. Both these species are natives of Britain. Only young and juicy specimens must be selected for cooking. Polyporus umbellatus, Fr., is stated by Fries to be esculent, but it is not found in Britain. Polyporus squamosus, Fr., has been also included; but Mrs. Hussey thinks that one might as well think of eating saddle-flaps. None of these receive very much commendation. Dr. Curtis enumerates, amongst North American species, the Polyporus cristatus, Fr., Polyporus poripes, Fr., which, when raw, tastes like the best chestnuts or filberts, but is rather too dry when cooked. Polyporus Berkeleii, Fr., is intensely pungent when raw, but when young, and before the pores are visible, it may be eaten with impunity, all its pungency being dissipated by cooking. Polyporus confluens, Fr., he considers superior, and, in fact, quite a favourite. Polyporus sulfureus, Fr., which is not eaten in Europe, he considers just tolerably safe, but not to be coveted. It is by no means to be recommended to persons with weak stomachs. In his catalogue, Dr. Curtis enumerates one hundred and eleven species of edible fungi found in Carolina.†

With Fistulina hepatica, Fr., it is different; for here we encounter a fleshy, juicy fungus, resembling beefsteak a little in appearance, and so much more in its uses, that the name of "beefsteak fungus" has been given to it. Some authors are rapturous in their praise of Fistulina. It sometimes attains a very large size, Dr. Badham quoting one found by himself

* Badham's “Esculent Funguses,” 1st ed. pp. 116 and 120. Catalogue of Plants of Carolina, U.S.

Badham, Dr., "Esculent Funguses," 2nd ed. p. 128; Hussey, "Illustra